Camshaft carrier sealant

[jasonharrison]

The RAVE manual calls for STC4600 between the camshaft carrier and cylinder head. I've read the sticky say that STC4600 is equivalent to Hylomar 3400, however I'm unable to find a supplier online in aus (roverparts is away and they seem to be the only one to have it)

I've seen that Psimpson7 has used Loctite 518 as an alternative in his cylinder head rebuild.

My question is, is Loctite 518 an acceptable long term alternative? Ideally I'd like to go by the book and get it right the first time. Or does anyone know where else I could get Hylomar 3400?


Cheers

[Collins]

You might try contacting "derek@derek.com.au" regarding Hylomar products

[67hardtop]

Could also try loctite 515. Good stuff. We use it to seal cam boxes on barina, camira, astra, daewoo, the GM family 2 engines, ( single overhead cam).

Cheers Rod

Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

[strangy]

The 518 will work just as well as Hylomar.
515 is a similar sealant product and will probably be ok also. However the 518 for this job would be my choice, as it has greater flexibility and higher gap filing tolerance than the 515.
Have a look at the Loctite website for more info.
Biggest thing is ensuring clean and flat surfaces and care when fitting together.
The sealant can't help poor work practices😀

[Pippin]

I use a 25mm foam rubber paint roller or similar to apply the sealant to get a fine even coating to avoid any potential blocking of oil ways.

[jasonharrison]

Biggest thing is ensuring clean and flat surfaces and care when fitting together.


Searched high and low last night and it seems that loctite 518 is the way to go. Any advice on cleaning the surfaces? I'm not sure if I should be using mineral spirits or brake clean on a rag etc.

[strangy]

With this sort of thing I usually start with acrylic thinners on a rag which generally leaves a nice oil free finish with little to no scraping required.
Any of the carby electronic,maf or brakeclean spray packs are pretty good too.
Just don't use anything caustic/acid/alkaline based.
There are a number of improvised or specific purpose tools you can use if scraping is necessary.
I typically use a a "stone blunt" 1inch wood chisel.
This provides a flat, easy to control and not too sharp tool to lift any excess gasket material or sealant.
Whatever you use, take great care not to dig into the soft alloy.
Best to avoid flat screwdrivers or similar .
Sometimes a plastic putty applicator is all that is need and no chance of surface damage.

Check surface on both sides/pieces for burrs, nicks and sealant remains.
Run a straight edge over all mating surfaces.

Compressed air through all galleries after some spray cleaner, (if you have it) carb clean, brakeckean, MAF cleaner or electroclean is always helpful to make sure the galleries don't have debris in them.
The great thing about the loctite is that all of their anaerobic compounds will emulsify with oil.
Which means any small amount which may find itself in oil gallery will not cause an issue down the track.
The flip side is why it must be oil free surfaces for the application.

[Roverlord off road spares]

We we used to order the STC4600 , loctite 515 was supplied and what a lot of Land rover workshops used.

[ZaneOne]

Turners sell Hylomar in a big tube, not cheap though.

[jasonharrison]

I've managed to find some loctite 518 from over east at a reasonable price. Blackwoods stock it too.

[Grumpy]

I use the Loctite #3 Aviation non-hardening gasket sealant most of the time. Seems to do the job for me

Tony aka Grumpy :wheelchair: