1999 freelander L series Fault Code 132

[nickcuzz]

Hi all,

I really need help.

Using my hawkeye i get
Fault Code 132 Pedal Position Sensor Circuit

The car will either:

Show the check engine light without touching the accelerator pedal and will idle high, but i can still accelerate and drive. Also when the accelerator is pressed the engine light disappears.

Or

No engine light and normal idle, but when i press the accelerator pedal the engine light comes on and i cant do more than about 1100-1300 rpm.

Sometimes switching the car off for a few mins and starting will get rid the problems temporarily.

These problems intermittently come and go, and i cant figure out what is causing the problem.

Looking at the live data with my hawkeye with the problem happening and without, pressing the accelerator appears to be working showing 0-99%

Problem after problem with this car, except this time i cant work it out and i just wish it would give me a break. So far I've spent about $2000 on this car fixing various problems in the last 3 months with me doing all the work and alot of lost weekends.

[woko]

With your Hawkeye watch the pedal voltage. It should be be .5v foot off and 3.5v pedal on floor. It also should be a smooth increase when depressing slowly.
Check the wiring going into the pedal but sounds like your pedal requires replacement

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[nickcuzz]

Done some testing and the voltage goes smoothly from about 0.46 up to 3.26.

Also while doing it slowly the percentage increases until 15% then drops to 0% if i press further.

However the hawkeye shows the idle stays active the whole time, which would be whats cutting the revs and causing the engine light.

Testing the wire for the idle position switch GREEN/RED shows 0.18v without pressing the accelarator and 0.3v when pressing it, which goes against the information i found on this page EDC15M2 (http://tuning-diesels.com/Edc15m/edc15m.htm)

Also i found the plug with the same wire on it in the engine bay near the ecu, i unpluged it and tested, still got 0.18v.

So now i'm worried it may be more than a bad potentiometer.

The sensor has a 4 pin connector nearby with the following wire colours: Stick a pin through the insulation or push the meter probe through the seal and down the wire entry.

PINK/BLACK = 0VOLTS (battery -VE)

RED/GREY = +5Volts from ecu

GREEN/RED = PEDAL SWITCH - IDLE POSITION: Must be about 3.5volts with the pedal up and as soon as the pedal is moved more than a mm or two, it drops to zero (or below 0.5volt). If the pedal moves more than this before the switch operates, limp mode will usually occur.

ORANGE/YELLOW = PEDAL POSITION. Should be about 0.4 to 0.5 volts pedal up increasing smoothly as the pedal is moved to about 3volts on full throttle.

[woko]

Are you testing the idle switch plugged in and back probing or unplugged and though the plug front?

If you are getting 0% on the throttle angle your pedal sensor has a dead spot in it.

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[nickcuzz]

I tested with the potentiometer plugged in and unplugged, aswell as near the ecu.

Also with the throttle percentage dropping to 0%, could it be that the ecu is still being told to idle by the idle switch inside the potentiometer, so it cuts the throttle back to 0% ?

I'll just get another one to see if it is at fault, however i've got a bad feeling something might have gone bad in the ecu, due to the idle switch wire still having 0.18v coming from the ecu with the throttle unplugged. Also the intermittent randomness.

Anywhere that you recommend i should try to get another, i'm in Maryborough VIC

[woko]

It's a problem that it drops to 0%. It should have a low number. It's the same as voltage never gets to 0v.
The idle switch is a feed back. It uses the 5v supply and gives a feed back to the ecu. If it has the 5v supply and no voltage on the idle switch the switch is not closing.

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