Recovery options

[Madmax69]

Greetings from New Zealand.
I have looked at the FAR and searched for an answer but can't seem to find what I am looking for.

From what I have been told by the 4wd clubs here. The recovery points will not be accepted due to being welded and not bolted. Yes I know they are strong enough but this will still not be acceptable.
I have a nudge bar installed on the front but bolts are already to low.
I made a tow bar for the back that slides into the same pocket as the factory one, the difference is it is fastened with 3 x 16 mm bolts instead of being quick release. I have added extra flat bar on it to mount two recovery hooks so the back end is sorted, I believe.
The front how ever...
Was thinking of cutting the front eye and punching out the rod still in it, then fabricating something from that. I am a very good and qualified engineer but just getting people's thoughts more than anything. Nothing will be welded to the front cross member only bolted using the two 12mm holes from the towing eye.

Thanks in advance.
Max

[weeds]

I think you will find the front is more the adequate.......search a little harder although one of the lads will be along to point you in the right direction.

[Stuart02]

Out of interest how do the Kiwi 4WD clubs view the Pajero factory recovery points? I think the fact they're welded on makes them dodgy cf the Disco ones.

My solution would be to join a Land Rover Club! :)

[Madmax69]

They won't allow any welded eye's to be used it doesn't matter on the car or even if rated. This is what I have been told anyway. The must be a bolted on type recovery hook.
Reason I believe.
Is a welded one, if fails may just give up the ghost.
Where the bolted on hook can slowly peel away releasing some of the tension before giving up completely. Once again this is what has been passed on to me.
Cheers Max.

[cjc_td5]

Greetings from New Zealand.
I have looked at the FAR and searched for an answer but can't seem to find what I am looking for.

From what I have been told by the 4wd clubs here. The recovery points will not be accepted due to being welded and not bolted. Yes I know they are strong enough but this will still not be acceptable.
I have a nudge bar installed on the front but bolts are already to low.
I made a tow bar for the back that slides into the same pocket as the factory one, the difference is it is fastened with 3 x 16 mm bolts instead of being quick release. I have added extra flat bar on it to mount two recovery hooks so the back end is sorted, I believe.
The front how ever...
Was thinking of cutting the front eye and punching out the rod still in it, then fabricating something from that. I am a very good and qualified engineer but just getting people's thoughts more than anything. Nothing will be welded to the front cross member only bolted using the two 12mm holes from the towing eye.

Thanks in advance.
Max

What vehicle are we talking here?
Presuming it is a D3 or D4, on the rear, why would you not use the eye in the rear bumper behind the cover? It is a straight pull off the chassis rather than a custom made (unrated) bracket made to fit the tow receiver?

[Milton477]

It will be a sad day when a properly constructed manufacturer's recovery point has to be downgraded to an aftermarket product to meet local 4X4 club rules.

[Madmax69]

Cjc td5 hi
It's a discovery 3 g4 so it's the 4ltr petrol version with Springs all around.

And yes Milton very frustrating to change what to me already seems like a good plan.

Max

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

The front point is a tow point, not specifically a recovery point. It would be fine to winch off, snatching is a risk you take.

[Stuart02]

The front point is a tow point, not specifically a recovery point. It would be fine to winch off, snatching is a risk you take.

Now you've done it! ;)

[rangieman]

Now you've done it! ;)
http://www.twoviewsbeyond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Can-of-Worms-by-Jason-Crislip-jpeg1.jpg

[BobD]

I don't think your club understands welding. Nor do they understand the Discovery recovery points, which are stronger than any aftermarket bolt on recovery points. Bolts in shear are much more likely to break suddenly and catastrophically than properly designed and constructed welds, such as those used on the Discovery recovery points.


Do not under any circumstances remove the factory points and replace them with something weaker and more dangerous in a snatch situation. One of the bolt on brackets flying through the air is much heavier and more dangerous than the light weight welded rod on the front of a Discovery if you want to use that argument. I don't think anyone on here has ever broken one, however, despite many having a good go at it I'm sure.

[Bytemrk]

I'd be changing 4wd club before changing recovery points on a D3 or D4 if that is their view.

[AnD3rew]

Agreed, stupid rule.

The Mitch hitch might meet their rules on the back and you get the advantage of a better hitch as well.

Wouldn't mess with the front one and would use it over a bolt on one.

[Tombie]

The front point is a tow point, not specifically a recovery point. It would be fine to winch off, snatching is a risk you take.



Incorrect... it's rated for recovery.

[weeds]

Can somebody post the YouTube clip........

[~Rich~]

That uTube clip is only really showing chassis strength not recovery point strength.

[weeds]

That uTube clip is only really showing chassis strength not recovery point strength.



Isn't the hook of the Crane connected to the recovery point?.....thought it's a good visual that it ain't going to fall off.

[sheerluck]

This one?
https://youtu.be/3fufTUpi3FU

[~Rich~]

Have a look in the first 20 seconds, it's quite obvious its not the factory recovery point!

[weeds]

Yeah yeah.......Thanks for refreshing my memory, it's been quite a while since it was fort posted.

I agree cut the factory one off and bolt an aftermarket.

[shanegtr]

theres a video in post #2 of this thread that shows some heavy pulls on the recovery points
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-4/222593-d3-4-front-rear-oem-centre-recovery-point-rating.html

[Tombie]

Simply - your 4wd club are a bunch of fools that need to educate themselves...

They all trust a hook bolted to thin metal with 2 bolts over a correctly constructed point that can handle over 6t without deformation...

Do not cut it off, do not bolt something through the "body" on chassis construction...
Use the original point which is designed for recovery..

Just use your brain and don't snatch like a mad man...

[Madmax69]

Hi team thanks for help regarding this matter. I will definitely by pushing the issue to use the factory recovery points. Will get back to you what the outcome is.

Cheers guys.
Max

[ytt105]

Do Nissan Patrols have to replace their welded recovery hooks, or is just Landrovers?

[Tombie]

Do Nissan Patrols have to replace their welded recovery hooks, or is just Landrovers?



Last I saw. Patrols have a welded tow point.

LR 3 onwards have a recovery point.

[Madmax69]

Do Nissan Patrols have to replace their welded recovery hooks, or is just Landrovers?
It was reported any trucks that had welded recovery points.

[Tombie]

Does my head in...

Blanket policy - fit a 2 bolt hook to 2.5mm of box section which is spot welded... far safer than a penetration welded hoop rated for application.

Sounds like the 4wd associations in Au - that haven't updated with the times since 1990.