Check the suspension compressor cover

[LRD414]

It is worth removing your suspension compressor cover to check for dirt/sand/sludge.

This is what mine looked like after a recent trip that included some muddy bog holes.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/439.jpg

And this is what it should look like:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/440.jpg

The yellow stuff is foam attached to the plastic cover and tends to hold on to dirt, so needs a good flush.

The cover is simple to remove, three screws (10mm socket) and approx 6 plastic clips.
The clips join the lower plastic cover to the upper plastic cover that remains in place and are a similar style to the ones on the battery compartment lid.
Once you've removed the screws and opened all plastic clips the cover just drops off.

Two of the plastic clips are visible towards the top of the photo below, showing the cover still on the vehicle:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/441.jpg

There is an "L" shaped steel bracket supporting the compressor's three vibration mounts that is visible with the cover removed.
You may find dirt/mud/sand accumulated on the horizontal part of the bracket.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/442.jpg
Bracket by itself (doesn't need removal for cleaning).

Too much dirt may inhibit the mounts and cause overheating issues, so a bit of preventative maintenance is well worth it I think.

Cheers,
Scott

[Chops]

Hi Scott,
Just wondering if this is the compressor that has the bash plate covering it as well, which I'm guessing means removing that first (?)

[LRD414]

Just wondering if this is the compressor that has the bash plate covering it as well, which I'm guessing means removing that first (?)
Yes, if you have an aftermarket guard fitted.
There is no factory bash plate over the compressor, just the plastic case.
This is why a compressor bash plate is the first one to get in my opinion.
And one that is reasonably easy to remove.

Scott

[Chops]

Yes, if you have an aftermarket guard fitted.
There is no factory bash plate over the compressor, just the plastic case.
This is why a compressor bash plate is the first one to get in my opinion.
And one that is reasonably easy to remove.

Scott


Already ordered :D

[sheerluck]

Just to add to what you've said Scott, if you leave the water and stuff inside the cover, then that foam starts to rot. As soon as it starts to rot, it falls on top of the compressor. Then the compressor will start getting hot pretty quick, and will reduce its lifespan.

[scomac]

Took Scott's advice and this is what was in the cover. Also I thought I would not need a protection plate but after seeing the damage I'll be ordering a GOE one from Gordon.


Sent from my GT-N5120 using AULRO mobile app

[RHS58]

Here's a question.
Does the cover actually need to stay when a bash plate has been installed?

Ron

[sheerluck]

Yes it does Ron.

[Odysseyman]

Here's a question.
Does the cover actually need to stay when a bash plate has been installed?

Ron

I have only recently bought my D4 and firstly I would like to say what a fantastic resource these threads of Scott’s are. I’m really impressed with the fantastic and clear way he articulates what he has done and the process he decided on.

Today i have fitted my Llams kit using some of his tips (along with the instructions) and it’s worked out well.

Now to the the point of my post - I see it is said not to remove the original factory compressor cover when fitting an aftermarket one. I have on order an APT cover and side steps/rock sliders and this question niggles in my mind.

It seems to me that in the interest of minimising the possibility of the compressor overheating it would be wise to remove the original factory cover. I can also see that the foam inside the cover supports the cables and lines to the compressor and I think that’s important.

Is there something else I haven’t thought of or should know? I’m really keen to understand this and do what is appropriate.

Cheers,
David

[DiscoJeffster]

My opinion based on nothing but that. Removing it will increase the noise exponentially. It’s designed to get hot. You GENERALLY don’t use if for long stints so they rarely overheat. When you’re calibrating the suspension it’s a pain in the arse because the up down does overheat it quickly.
Overall there’s really no need under normal usage. Damage to pipes and wires? Probably not but your thoughts are sound on that front.

[Ozzy119]

Had a compressor failure, so now have after market, which is a lower profile. The Greenoval guard no longer fits.

Annoyingly for me, when I was first installing my GOE guard the front bolt's captive nut dropped out. So it was held up with cable tie for about 3 years.

[LRD414]

I can also see that the foam inside the cover supports the cables and lines to the compressor and I think that’s important.
Here's my take; the factory cover does support and protect the various cables and hoses so is worth keeping in place.
If it was removed you would still get rocks/sticks inside the protection plate and these could then damage the cables, etc.
So it is better to retain the foam lined cover but keep it clean, then you will have protection, support and no overheating.

Cheers,
Scott

[101RRS]

Had a compressor failure, so now have after market, which is a lower profile.

What aftermarket compressor did you fit - original are either AMK or Hitachi and the only aftermarket that I was aware of is a Dunlop which is a Hitachi knock off?

Garry

[Odysseyman]

Here's my take; the factory cover does support and protect the various cables and hoses so is worth keeping in place.
If it was removed you would still get rocks/sticks inside the protection plate and these could then damage the cables, etc.
So it is better to retain the foam lined cover but keep it clean, then you will have protection, support and no overheating.

Cheers,
Scott

yes, I have come to that conclusion too, thanks Scott. It probably also affords some sound deadening and reduces vibration, so will definitely be left on.

Cheers
David

[Ozzy119]

What aftermarket compressor did you fit - original are either AMK or Hitachi and the only aftermarket that I was aware of is a Dunlop which is a Hitachi knock off?

Garry

Hi Garry,

My use of 'after marked' was not correct. I just meant the factory fitted one needed replacing. My 2010 unit was replaced with an AMK, but the plastic guard is def a bit bigger and my mechanic was aware that the GOE guard would no longer fit. So I never actually bothered to check, as i could see the size difference in the plastic guard as soon as i got the car back.

[LRD414]

I found the GOE guard didn’t fit the AMK on mine (MY14) and had to cut away part of the rear of the guard to avoid the clash.
Others have had the same issue and modified the plate or fiddled the fit until it just missed hitting the plastic cover.
I replaced it with an APT guard soon after, which I think is a better design for strength, fit and extent of protection (it includes frontal protection).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/147.jpg

[matti4556]

When I cleaned the mud out of my cover, I just tore out the foam sound deadening and binned it. It runs much cooler now. A couple of 20mm holes witht he holesaw in strategic locations has cured many issues for me. It even drains the water and muck now. Cycling the motor on the over temperature cut out is not a "normal" situation for any electric motor - it buggers the winding insulation and shortens life. All in the name of "silence"?
It's not that noisy and not for that long. I'm happy with my mod.
Matti

[oldsalt]

I found the GOE guard didn’t fit the AMK on mine (MY14) and had to cut away part of the rear of the guard to avoid the clash.
Others have had the same issue and modified the plate or fiddled the fit until it just missed hitting the plastic cover.
I replaced it with an APT guard soon after, which I think is a better design for strength, fit and extent of protection (it includes frontal protection).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/147.jpg

Yep - I have the GOE guard on my D3 and thought it "lacked" frontal protection...so it's one of the "things" I'm replacing soon...
cheers

[Eric SDV6SE]

I replaced it with an APT guard soon after, which I think is a better design for strength, fit and extent of protection (it includes frontal protection).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/147.jpg

Hi Scott,

I like the look of the APT compressor guard and sliders, were the sliders easy to fit? Do the factory mudguards still fit or is it one or the other?

These are on my list as well.

Some tips would be appreciated

cheers,

Eric

[LRD414]

I like the look of the APT compressor guard and sliders, were the sliders easy to fit? Do the factory mudguards still fit or is it one or the other?
Eric, the sliders are simple to fit and factory mudguards can be retained, although I personally found the factory ones rubbish and replaced them with better versions.
Easiest way to fit sliders is with the help of a jack to support them while fitting bolts.
Here's an old thread I did when APT first started fabrication of D3/D4 products:
APT Underbody Protection (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/237871-apt-underbody-protection.html)


Cheers,
Scott

[Odysseyman]

I agree with Scott, the APT sliders and compressor cover are very easy to fit. I did mine yesterday - they took about an hour and a half to do both, following Ben from APT’s YouTube video exactly. They fit beautifully.
Cheers
David145686

[Eric SDV6SE]

They fit beautifully.

Thanks for that - I note that you havent got mudflaps front and rear - are you still going to fit them?

I've replaced my factory mud flaps with similar mouldings off e-bay - the new ones fit much better than the OEMs, and are more rubber-like / flexible.

One mud flap was torn up the middle, so I was going to replace just one, but when looking closer, I found that on all 4 originals, the mounting brackets were completely rusted through, and the area behind packed up with mud and leaves. Then I ended up replacing all 4 of them.

I really like the look of the APT's but I want to retain the front and rear mudflaps, just double checking that this is definitely possible before committing.

Cheers.

[LRD414]

..... I want to retain the front and rear mudflaps, just double checking that this is definitely possible before committing.
Way off topic now (compressor cover cleaning) Eric but yes 100% the factory mudflaps will fit.
Consider that rear mudflaps are no where near sliders anyway and the APT slider doesn't come all the way forward to where the front mudflap mounts.
And while I'm off topic have a look at this thread and do yourself a favour with better mudflaps: D4 Mudflaps (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/203930-d4-mudflaps.html)

Cheers,
Scott

[Odysseyman]

Thanks for that - I note that you havent got mudflaps front and rear - are you still going to fit them?

I've replaced my factory mud flaps with similar mouldings off e-bay - the new ones fit much better than the OEMs, and are more rubber-like / flexible.

One mud flap was torn up the middle, so I was going to replace just one, but when looking closer, I found that on all 4 originals, the mounting brackets were completely rusted through, and the area behind packed up with mud and leaves. Then I ended up replacing all 4 of them.

I really like the look of the APT's but I want to retain the front and rear mudflaps, just double checking that this is definitely possible before committing.

Cheers.

Hi Eric
the sliders don’t go anywhere near the mudflaps, front or rear, so you won’t have any worries there. I’ve just ordered some mudflaps off eBay (they look like a knock-off of genuine ones) a full set for $39. I’m happy to give them a try at that price and if they don’t do the job I’ll invest a bit more time and effort as per the mudflaps thread.

David

[DazzaTD5]

As the OP has suggested its worth cleaning the whole compressor area, be that removing the standard plastic cover or other after market protection.

*The compressor assembly does get a lot of mud / dirt build up if you are gravel or offroading.
*The build up of mud will shorten the life of the unit and often makes it noisy when the mud hardens.
*And every now and then, maybe that 100K have the compressor removed / stripped and cleaned if you are offroading.