Stuck wheel hubs

[Dark61]

Hoping someone can enlighten me on two points please. Playing with the 2 - and so when we dragged it off the neighbours property the drivers side front wheel wasn't turning - started to after about 6 feet. I thought the brakes are sticking but the foot brake pedal is on the floor. So I'm thinking if there's no pressure in the brake system how can the brakes be binding on the drum? Not understanding what's going on. Hopefully someone can enlighten me. Got one drum off after a struggle by loosening the nut behind the drum - did the same with the passenger side and no luck this time.I'm looking at the parts catalogue and I can't see the nut on the diagram , so don't understand what it does.
Cheers,
D

[Blknight.aus]

the bolt operates the snail cam which holds the brake shoe in position as the brake lining wears down.

If its been parked for a long time rust in the drum can adhere to the material of the shoe and cause sticking.

The usual trick to free up the shoes on a stuck wheel is to back off the adjuster and then rock the vehicle back and forth.

[67hardtop]

Theres one adjuster on each shoe, so two bolts per wheel to back off b4 removing the drums. Some are bolt looking (6 sided), and sometimes they are a square type head on the bolt.

Cheers Rod

Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

[Dark61]

Thanks mate - I'll go looking at first light - the one I got hold of seemed to be proud of the hub - I could feel another that felt recessed.
Cheers,
D

[67hardtop]

I think from memory that the adjuster bolts are 5/8" spanner size or 1/4" square size. Dont undo the shoe leveling bolts by mistake. Pics show a 109 front, with 2 wheel cyls, and rear backing plate with 1 wheel cyl. The bigger bolts shown are the adjusters. If u have a swb then the front and rears are the same as the 109 rear in the second pic. Hope this helps.

Cheers Rod

Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

[Dark61]

Whatever it was that I did to get the drivers side front hub off yesterday , I couldn't repeat it today with any of the others. I could see daylight when I used a bolt on the threaded hole (not countersunk) and could move the hub a mil or 2 forward and back. It seems to be free of the studs etc - just that something's stopping it that I can't see. The picture attached is rear drivers side - but I am guessing that all the other wheels are the same. I'm not sure that what looks like a bolt at the bottom of the wheel is a bolt. I can only see one bolt (top left) not two. There is a bolt at an angle just to the left of the brake pipe. All wheels are turning fairly freely now so I'm a bit stumped. I'll get some fresh fuel in it etc and see if it fires up. There's nothing in the footbrake so I'll have to address the hubs again at some point.
cheers,
D

[Blknight.aus]

Whatever it was that I did to get the drivers side front hub off yesterday , I couldn't repeat it today with any of the others. I could see daylight when I used a bolt on the threaded hole (not countersunk) and could move the hub a mil or 2 forward and back. It seems to be free of the studs etc - just that something's stopping it that I can't see. The picture attached is rear drivers side - but I am guessing that all the other wheels are the same. I'm not sure that what looks like a bolt at the bottom of the wheel is a bolt. I can only see one bolt (top left) not two. There is a bolt at an angle just to the left of the brake pipe. All wheels are turning fairly freely now so I'm a bit stumped. I'll get some fresh fuel in it etc and see if it fires up. There's nothing in the footbrake so I'll have to address the hubs again at some point.
cheers,
D

thats going to be a lip in the drums grabbing the shoes when you try to take the drum off.

remove the brake line or the bleeder from the slave cyl, wind the brake pawls all the way off, put a large pry bar on the studs and turn the hub as you tap it off with a dead blow hammer.

Once you get the shoes to compress in over the lip if you keep the drum square you should be able to wiggle it off.

Id bet that if its been sitting for ages the pistons have siezed in their bores and the shoes aren't retracting enough to clear the irregularities in the drum.

[schuy1]

By 2 what Dave said. I have had really mistreated examples with deep grooves worn in the drum from the brake shoe rivets! With the cyl siezed drum removal becomes an interesting exercise :)

[Dark61]

It turned up on a neighbours property about 5 - 6 years ago. It sat there for a couple of years and then he fired it up and moved it into his shed. This would be about 2013, since when it has not moved until we dragged it out last week. I don't know what its history was prior.
I'll have another look at it over the weekend. As I said - its not a biggie at the moment but I got one off so I am trying to get my head around why doing the same thing , I couldn't get the others off. The lip in the drums grabbing the shoes sounds a good bet as I cant see what it is from the outside that's for sure. Thanks for your help.
cheers,
David.

[Davehoos]

My ser3 has 10 inch drums all round.
they only have 1 adjuster on the front[leading shoe].
the drums wear quickly need to machine the non contact edge off if you can.
Ive had to hit mine with the renovator[sander] every rego to get them to grab.


Rivited linings are good but wear uneven grooves.

the rear shoe on has a small spring at the bottom. it can self lock when reversing unless you champfer the top edge mine grabs when left parked for a few weeks.
inside the wheel cyl is a spring that holds the shoe out against the drum.-often the metal bits rust and get stuck with old age.


The actual drums was stuck on my ser3 when I got it. it stripped the thread in the drum getting them to move. then they are tight on the hub for most of the way off. sanded of the rust-and give it a coat of something. I fitted cheap new drums that are loose and the counter suck screws pull them out of center pulsing the pedal..


old shoes with lots of dust/humidity-glue to the drum in a short time.