Can I use key without internals?

[wozapinin]

Just dropped off my two key fob electric internals to get the micro switches replaced, (Way to fidley for my eyes). Can I still use the key, to drive the vehicle, without the electric internals, without the car chucking a hissy fit?
I don't plan to use the door locks;)

[davidjanssen88]

I'd be interest to know this also, as I lost 1 set of my keys in a taxi few months back (few to many pints) and I am down to 1 set with fob remote and 3 separate keys cut with no remotes.

[Bohica]

I'd be interest to know this also, as I lost 1 set of my keys in a taxi few months back (few to many pints) and I am down to 1 set with fob remote and 3 separate keys cut with no remotes.

Try it and see what happens. I don't think it will work but.

Engine immobiliser and all.

[geordiepride]

on my 2002 model I have a key with the electronics but when I take my jetski out I use the key that has no electric's I have removed the circuit board and stored in a safe place

its funny I call it a jetski key not a spare key

if your worried about your alarm system try and manually lock the door but leave another door open the horn beeps

iam unsure how the immobilser works I'm guessing on a timer ..there has been times when I have manually unlocked the car and by the time I dry off remove wetsuit and have a beer when I go and start the engine the engine will just turn over but no start

I have to manually lock the car an unlock then start engine

[Pedro_The_Swift]

The key fob syncs with the car when you insert the key,, little red /white light in the fob.
if there is no sync, the car will not start.

;):cool::banana:

[geordiepride]

Just dropped off my two key fob electric internals to get the micro switches replaced, (Way to fidley for my eyes). Can I still use the key, to drive the vehicle, without the electric internals, without the car chucking a hissy fit?
I don't plan to use the door locks;)

seems like there are many models out there could you please take a picture of the key and internals

[crash]

Yes you can - check the owners manual BUT you need to know the key sequence for your vehicle. It is a sequence of key turns in the door lock and / or with the key in the ignition.
My sequence was given to me on a card along with the radio code when the vehicle was purchased. Problem is I have put it in a safe place!

[ballbag]

The ignition barrell picks up a signal from the key fob and gives the ok to the BCU or ECM (naybe both?) allowing the car to start.

This requirement can be disabled in the BCU settings.


...... I think.

Pretty sure I did this a few years ago because I was scared of losing my keys or the system crapping out at an inopportune time.

[Tins]

I got a new key ( genuine ) for mine, 2000 model. Didn't have access to a Nanocom or similar. Got it cut, with dire warnings from the locksmith that it wouldn't work. It did. Sure, I couldn't remotely lock or un lock, but I still had a button unit from the broken key, but the key would start the car. I don't believe, at least on my car, that the physical key communicates anything to the car. If you don't have a remote unit that works, then as Crash says, there is a code sequence . You should be able to get that from a stealer with your VIN.
If you don't lock it, then the immobiliser should not interfere..... I say should, but if there is any system on a D2 with gremlins, in my experience it's the security system.
Give it a whirl. What's the worse thing that can happen??:eek:

[Tins]

I got a new key ( genuine ) for mine, 2000 model. Didn't have access to a Nanocom or similar. Got it cut, with dire warnings from the locksmith that it wouldn't work. It did. Sure, I couldn't remotely lock or un lock, but I still had a button unit from the broken key, but the key would start the car. I don't believe, at least on my car, that the physical key communicates anything to the car. If you don't have a remote unit that works, then as Crash says, there is a code sequence . You should be able to get that from a stealer with your VIN.
If you don't lock it, then the immobiliser should not interfere..... I say should, but if there is any system on a D2 with gremlins, in my experience it's the security system.
Give it a whirl. What's the worse thing that can happen??:eek:

Of course, as ballbag says, someone may have been fooling around with a Nanocom before I got the car...

[discorevy]

If you have, or can get access to nanocom / test book , under bcu settings , set to always disarm with key , this is good practice even if you have 2 working fobs, you can then disarm the immobiliser when you unlock the door with key only , there are only 2 frequency's, to around sep 1999 is 315 MHz , after that 433 MHz unless U.S which was 315 , right through, handy to know if you buy a replacement fob

[Tins]

If you have, or can get access to nanocom / test book , under bcu settings , set to always disarm with key , this is good practice even if you have 2 working fobs, you can then disarm the immobiliser when you unlock the door with key only , there are only 2 frequency's, to around sep 1999 is 315 MHz , after that 433 MHz unless U.S which was 315 , right through, handy to know if you buy a replacement fob

My 2000 is 433. The key I got was from the US, and it was also 433. Not saying you're wrong, as it isn't labelled LR. Seller said it was MG. Valeo key, with barcodes. Works fine.

[onebob]

on my 2002 model I have a key with the electronics but when I take my jetski out I use the key that has no electric's I have removed the circuit board and stored in a safe place

its funny I call it a jetski key not a spare key

if your worried about your alarm system try and manually lock the door but leave another door open the horn beeps

iam unsure how the immobilser works I'm guessing on a timer ..there has been times when I have manually unlocked the car and by the time I dry off remove wetsuit and have a beer when I go and start the engine the engine will just turn over but no start

I have to manually lock the car an unlock then start engine

I'm still working thru it all but definately the security can defeat you if your LR was last locked via the fob buttons! (and by default it is immobilised) - I timed the key blade entry once... and with key alone you need to unlock the driver door, open it, and get just a key blade (this means that the key blade is separate, and unassociated from the fob electronics module or in fact anywhere near the ignition barrel ) into the ignition key barrel and start the engine within about 30 seconds of entry. How do I know this? well it comes under the title of "traps for beginners" (aka the ignorant) and without revealing the back story I decided that having a good old fashioned key to hand that will stand as a serviceable substitute should one loose the key blade from the fob or when 100kms from help one does fall into a creek WITH LR keys in pocket and drown them! ( i just did spill the beans! didn't I :redface::redface:). A little later (days) I visited a shopping centre key booth attended by as it turned out a very tolerant operator and eventually I had a vintage style key cut that worked ie turned in the ignition barrel!... and brooooom!, I'm a happy customer! Anyway's all was 'sweet' ie me loving the old time simplicity of simple key entry and start, until I needed - nup going there.......... BUT remember you've got a 30 second window.

For those interested you need to ask for a SILCA NE27 blank and it'll need minor modification to allow the blade full entry into the ignition barrel - you'll work it out.

[geordiepride]

I'm still working thru it all but definately the security can defeat you if your LR was last locked via the fob buttons! (and by default it is immobilised) - I timed the key blade entry once... and with key alone you need to unlock the driver door, open it, and get just a key blade (this means that the key blade is separate, and unassociated from the fob electronics module or in fact anywhere near the ignition barrel ) into the ignition key barrel and start the engine within about 30 seconds of entry. How do I know this? well it comes under the title of "traps for beginners" (aka the ignorant) and without revealing the back story I decided that having a good old fashioned key to hand that will stand as a serviceable substitute should one loose the key blade from the fob or when 100kms from help one does fall into a creek WITH LR keys in pocket and drown them! ( i just did spill the beans! didn't I :redface::redface:). A little later (days) I visited a shopping centre key booth attended by as it turned out a very tolerant operator and eventually I had a vintage style key cut that worked ie turned in the ignition barrel!... and brooooom!, I'm a happy customer! Anyway's all was 'sweet' ie me loving the old time simplicity of simple key entry and start, until I needed - nup going there.......... BUT remember you've got a 30 second window.

For those interested you need to ask for a SILCA NE27 blank and it'll need minor modification to allow the blade full entry into the ignition barrel - you'll work it out.

to settle my own curiosity
I locked the doors via electronic
I had a shower then read this thread
I decided to take my blank key ..mind you my blank key is a copy from my original
I unlocked the door manually and the alarm system went off ..while alarm system was going off I quickly tried to start the engine NO GO

to reset my alarm system I needed to lock door manually and re open via the blank key and then my none electronic key started the engine

this has been a big learning curve for me because when I take my jetski out I use a blank key ..thinking the alarm works

the alarm system has flaws

if the car was electronically locked a screw driver through the key hole open left sets off alarm and a quick turn right turns its off ..after that is free for all

my ford focus has a master key the dud will will only allow to open the car as they key is cut different

[onebob]

to settle my own curiosity
I locked the doors via electronic
I had a shower then read this thread
I decided to take my blank key ..mind you my blank key is a copy from my original
I unlocked the door manually and the alarm system went off ..while alarm system was going off I quickly tried to start the engine NO GO

to reset my alarm system I needed to lock door manually and re open via the blank key and then my none electronic key started the engine

this has been a big learning curve for me because when I take my jetski out I use a blank key ..thinking the alarm works

the alarm system has flaws

if the car was electronically locked a screw driver through the key hole open left sets off alarm and a quick turn right turns its off ..after that is free for all

my ford focus has a master key the dud will will only allow to open the car as they key is cut different

hmmmm! your experience is different to mine - maybe yours has superlocking enabled??

NB: my shopping centre key blank was cut from the original LR key blade

[geordiepride]

hmmmm! your experience is different to mine - maybe yours has superlocking enabled??

NB: my shopping centre key blank was cut from the original LR key blade

if that's what they call super lock they need to try better

if a screw driver opens a door and quickly locks,,, alarm is disabled basically what my blank key did

[Fluids]

Stop trying to re-invent the wheel and read the owners manual you lot !! :cool:

Get your EKA. If you don't know it, use a Nanocom to find out what it is. If it's a stupid number sequence like 13 7 9 14, change it with the Nanocom to something easy like 3 1 2 2. If your EKA is something like C E F A .... then C=3, E=5, F=6, A=1 ... get the idea ??

Read up on unlocking and disabling the immobiliser ... Did I say it's in the owners manual ??? ... :wasntme:

Get a plain flat key cut from your working key ... yes, just a plain flat key, no FOB or electrics or buttons ... a flat key, like the front door key to your house !

Put the key in some sort of secure container, in a zip top plastic bag, with, if your require, the EKA written on a peice of paper ... you can use the LETTER style code to represent the numbers when you write it down for a bit of extra security ... you'll know how to decipher it ... others likley won't. Hide it somewhere up underneath the vehicle secured to somewhere on the body, chassis, etc ... you'll figure something out.

I have a key, in a plastic bag, with my EKA in letter form, in a wet suit neoprene sunglass case with a lanyard + clip secured underneath, with a large spring paperclip as second securing. If you didn't know where to look you'll likley never find it.

IF you loose your key, or the FOB battery goes flat, or you damage the FOB, slide under the D2, retrieve the key, unlock, disable the immobilizer, and start the car .... simples !!!

.... did I say it's in the owners manual ??? :twisted:

When you read the manual you'll understand why changing the EKA to lower numbers is a good idea. Once you have read the manual & got a flat key, PRACTICE the operation so when you need it, you don't look like a goose who doesn't know what he's doing !

Did I say it's in the manual ??? :D

.... so how did we all go ???

[onebob]

Spot on FLUIDS... it's been years since i had the experience and my recollection wasn't complete at the time i was typing my post.

Yes i gained entry with the EKA (code card carried in my wallet) the one time when I didn't have a working fob and was able to start the D2 and drive it no probs with my plain flat key until I pulled into a servo to fill up etc, I removed the key closed but left the door unlocked for ease of re entry On return to the car and reinserting the key and trying to start set the alarm off and no start. Took an embarrassing amount of time with a gathering audience to sort out.

Good advice too re practicing the procedure.

onebob