Puma dash switch measurements

[Toxic_Avenger]

On the sides of the puma dash, there are two flat sections in the middle, either side of the radio and central switchgear.
I'm about to drill a 78x48mm hole in my dash, but have been questioning how to centre the switches on this relatively flat panel (it is slightly convex by approx 3mm either side over it's ~100mm width).

Post pics of what you've done. I'm hoping I can see what others have done before I make the cuts and make a huge mistake!

I'm thinking that I'll try to keep the panel level, even though the top edge is not level. I think it looks a bit dicky if the panel is mounted aligned with the top edge, rather than the side edge (which is pretty much vertical).

Thoughts?

[Toxic_Avenger]

Flippin' aulro attachments always flippin' flippin'. Mother flippers.

[Tombie]

Emmas is parallel to the edge not the top.

[Toxic_Avenger]

That's what I was thinking.
There is going to be some landscaping of the plastic ridges behind that panel, but it should turn out OK once all is said and done.

Someone with a 3d printer shoudl make a bezel like this:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/1157.jpg

Or even a full length one that allows various flat plastic or steel inserts to be cut out / added as needed (carling switches, 52mm gauges, brake controllers, volt meters etc).

[lump_a_charcoal]

Here is my installation.

Also rotated.:mad:

It is aligned with the top edge. Anything else would look crooked.

[Pickles2]

Here is my installation.

Also rotated.:mad:

It is aligned with the top edge. Anything else would look crooked.
Top job.
Pickles.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Nice pic. Might be the orientation of the pic, but it looks like it's aligned more with the LHS than the top edge?

It's difficult to judge what looks best because the panel is curved in multiple planes.
I put a level on the 'top' edge closest the vent , and it's not quite level.
Nor is the LHS edge straight, as it is convex.

[lump_a_charcoal]

I think it's because of the light on the rolled edge.
It is level (measure 37 times, cut once, remember).

[digger]

That's what I was thinking.
There is going to be some landscaping of the plastic ridges behind that panel, but it should turn out OK once all is said and done.

Someone with a 3d printer shoudl make a bezel like this:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/1157.jpg

Or even a full length one that allows various flat plastic or steel inserts to be cut out / added as needed (carling switches, 52mm gauges, brake controllers, volt meters etc).

if you are going to that much trouble,

then you should also block most of those uncontrolled centre vents and "plate" the top of the dash both ways with a low height gap to allow at least some heat/cool towards passenger/driver from alongside the window (the outside of dash facing in!)

(stop the frozen outside roasted inside in winter and reverse in summer!!) why landrover didnt put a 2nd vent on the outer sides is beyond me, they almost got the dash right!

[digger]

while i am at it... would these fit the puma dash?

2 x Push Button Illuminted Dash Board Switches Auction (0006-2505103) | GraysOnline Australia (http://www.graysonline.com/lot/0006-2505103/auto-accessories/2-x-push-button-illuminted-dash-board-switches'spr=true)

[Marty90]

while i am at it... would these fit the puma dash?

2 x Push Button Illuminted Dash Board Switches Auction (0006-2505103) | GraysOnline Australia (http://www.graysonline.com/lot/0006-2505103/auto-accessories/2-x-push-button-illuminted-dash-board-switches'spr=true)

Don't think they will,how bout these http://www.expeditioncentre.com.au/online-store/touring/electrics-fuses-connectors/land-rover-auxiliary-switches-for-defender-2002-onwards.html

[Toxic_Avenger]

while i am at it... would these fit the puma dash?

2 x Push Button Illuminted Dash Board Switches Auction (0006-2505103) | GraysOnline Australia (http://www.graysonline.com/lot/0006-2505103/auto-accessories/2-x-push-button-illuminted-dash-board-switches'spr=true)

Toyota parts in a land rover? :o

The carling switched I am after are probably the most universal, have the greatest selection of removable switch front panels, and have the largest range of back end circuits (SPST, SPDT, DPDT, momentary operation etc). So there is forward compatability there. OE offerings may be limited, so not my first choice.

My main question is how people have mounted panels on the sides of the puma dash. If aligned with the top edge, the alignment is out on the LHS. Likewise stacking multiple panels on there will make them all seem out of alignment. Lining them up with the LHS will put alignment out on the top. It's a question of neatness not the hardware.

[lump_a_charcoal]

As per my pic, line the top switches up with the top edge of the dash.
Then, align lower ones horizontally and vertically with the top switches.

Anything else would look craptastic.

[Toxic_Avenger]

I'm not 100% convinced on the craptastic comment. I've just sat in the car for an hour mapping out some ideas and seeing how they look. I'm not OC but some days I think im pretty ****ing close ;). I'm mainly ****ting bricks as I don't want to mess up a cut in a 40K car. Especially one that I'll have to stare at whenever I'm behind the wheel.

The panel is an odd shaped bit of gear.
If you are running a 1x3 bay of switches, it will look OK in any orientation- aligned with the vertical edge or the horizontal edge. Where things start to go AWOL is when you want to stack 2 1x3 panels. I'm not sure if I'll ever go this way, or just get one of the panels that sits up high on the dash if I require any other gauge slots or switch spaces.

Anyway, when you have 2 panels in the dash, they need to be aligned with the same thing- either both aligned with the vertical OR horizontal edge.

The other issue is when you sit in the driver's seat, you have an odd perspective of the layout. I think it's best to look at this from the centre rear of the vehicle.

Here is a pic of the switch panel locations aligned with the vertical edge

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=113447&stc=1&d=1472888236


Here is a pic of the switch panel locations aligned with the horizontal edge

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=113448&stc=1&d=1472888236
The bottom 1x3 switch panel will need to align with the bottom edge of the top panel. This in turn causes the sawtooth misalignment effect on the vertical edge (which I think looks craptacular). This is basically an offset of about 2-3mm due to the curvature of the edge. It's not much, but from the rear perspective, it stands out a lot.


Here's something just to prove a point- the top panel is aligned with the horizontal edge, the bottom with the vertical edge.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=113449&stc=1&d=1472888236


Here is an install of one of the double DIN stereo kits, and the switch relocation panel (also aligned with the vertical edge)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/1071.jpg
(Pic courtesy of landrovertuning.com.au)


And from a design point of view:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/1072.jpg
There is a definite orientation of the other switches with the vertical edge.

[numpty]

Looks like you've answered your own question Mitch. ;)

Line it/them up with the vertical edge.

[Tombie]

As per my pic, line the top switches up with the top edge of the dash.

Then, align lower ones horizontally and vertically with the top switches.



Anything else would look craptastic.



Aligning to the top (tapered) edge makes all switches look like they're "on the ****"...

The more that are stacked the worse it gets - like a Leaning tower of Carling.

[Toxic_Avenger]

I don't think it turned out bad.
Yeah, it will look dicky no matter which way you look at it, but as mentioned it's only an issue when stacking multiple banks of switches.
In the end I skewed towards aligning with the vertical edge, and it turned out OK.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=113500&d=1472977358

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=113501&d=1472977454

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=113502&d=1472977454

[roverrescue]

Stupid question Mitch but I see four blank factory switches

Why not use these from rimmer
YUF500150LNF
OE*SWITCH ASSY 7.67 quid I bought three and delivery only came to 4.40 quid so for

So for just over $50 Aus delivered I have three factory switches that are DPDT ?
Cover plates can be fiddled with easily to display what you need?

Steve

[Toxic_Avenger]

No such thing as a stupid question.
I've got other plans for those switches. If I ever get E lockers, they will use a centre dash switch position. Likewise any external camp lighting etc will use a spot there. I am aware of the OE style options out there, but the carling style is very adaptable and almost universal. It is aligned with what I am currently using on the ex Box, and I can also use that space for blanking plugs like I have in there now, to USB charging ports. Cost wise, (non genuine) carling switches can be had very cheaply. The genuine switches can be pinned in a huge combination of ways and styles

Having the switches where they are makes them close at hand to dip the spotties / light bar when traffic approaches, as the hand is usually on the high beam / blinker stalk. My previous switches meant I'd need to use my right hand to push two different buttons, then use the left hand to flick off the high beam stalk. Whether my new options is lazy or smart, you decide!

[roverrescue]

All fair points Mitch
Each to their own

I think if I didn't want to just use factory switches Id go with a membrane panel mount ( for example Membrane & Touch Panels : LEDADVANTAGE - Sydney Suppliers of Marine Accessories & Quality LED Light Solutions (http://www.ledadvantage.com.au/index.php'main_page=index&cPath=94)
) - with 1m of cable between the membrane and the switch box you could almost get to the X-box for connectivity of components - I hate the rats nest that comes from the back of switch panels!!!

Just ideas