Rattle in transfer case

[worane]

After nearly a year of perfect running I have of late noticed a rattle in the transfer case that seems to be getting worse.
As soon as a little throttle is applied the noise goes away. Any ideas?
I have a lose of t case oil but I add oil as needed.
I can't afford to have the case pulled .

[Homestar]

Diesel or petrol? The diesels seem to munch the centre diff spider gear shims which will cause a bit of free play in them causing a rattle off load. The V8's didn't seem to do the shims as much damage.

If it is that, they are about $2 each (4 required) but the TC will need to come out - it's not a huge or complicated job once that is done - there's a good write up on here by Alien when he did his.

The oil loss is likely to be either an output shaft seal or the centre shaft o ring leaking - both fairly easy fixes while it's on the bench.

The LT230 is quite a tough transfer case, and not too difficult to work on.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

it is a noticeable thing now though,,
the amount of D2 TC's needing work.

hard to know if its lack of maintenance or hard work or just old age:p

[worane]

It is a 1999 TD5.
Can I still drive it without harm?

[Homestar]

Ok, that makes sense. As to whether you can still drive it, that depends on whether I'm right or not... :angel:

Worn shims should be fine for a while, but if it's something more serious - a bearing, etc - you coukd be damaging a gear set. Personally I'd be happy to drive it short term if you're putting plans in place to make the repairs, but I probably would strike out on a lap of Aus in it right now.

Not sure of your mechanical skills but the TC can be removed with some basis tools, in your driveway, but have a mate help - it is heavy and you don't want to try and man handle it off the gearbox on your own.

[Fluids]

Can you still drive it ? Yes. Without further harm ? Probably not ... the damage is already done :) Will it get progressively worse ? .... Very likely. If it gets too bad it could go BANG! It'll have to be pretty bad to do that.

Be kind to it! Keep the oil up to it, and get it fixed sooner rather than later! :)

Sent by iPhone using two tin cans and Forum Runner

[simmo]

hi worane, Its fine transfer case, I've just rebuilt one for my car.
I recommend doing some cheap checks before driving it for too long, some had the non collapsible spacer and can get slack in the intermediate gear. They're nice fine quiet gears in there that don't like misalignment.

Take the bottom cover off the transfer case and have a look in there, it will cost you $25 for some new oil and a bit of silicon. Check the magnetic sump plug, look for steel/brass bits in the bottom etc, they'll give you a clue.
put a big screw driver in and try to move the intermediate gear fwd & aft.
You might be able to do the same with the input gear, If you can move either of them back wards and forwards, that could be your problem.
Check to see if the gears are shiny on one end of the teeth but not the other.
(bearing clearance and gear misalignment) . The input gear can be shimmed without removing the TC, and you can re tighten the intermediate shaft nut ( after you "unstake" it :) )

It might even be possible to remove the front TC housing, and diff center with the TC in the car. You can download the workshop manual from the inernet. good luck, cheers simmo

[PhilipA]

It might even be possible to remove the front TC housing, and diff center with the TC in the car. You can download the workshop manual from the inernet. good luck, cheers simmo

I think it is possible to take out the diff when you have pulled off the nose.

I avoided doing this when I pulled off the nose but AFAIR the UK D2 bloke had the diff come out with the nose. I know one site US? shows retrieving the detent ball of the high low shaft when the diff has come out.

I had a look at mine when I fitted the new nose and there was zero brass caught in the indentation in the old nose at 179Kk , while the nose I fitted had about half a tonne of brass swarf before cleaning , from failed shims.

So my conclusion is that usage or neglect has a lot to do with longevity.

But if the centre diff shims are gone I would think it would be accompanied by the front case wearing at the intermediate shaft and leaking badly there so the whole case would need to come out. My intermediate shaft was leaking but the case was OK .
Regards Philip A

[Outback 1]

Have you checked that the vibration damper on the back of the transfer case is tight as they come loose and rattle at idle

Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

[worane]

Solved the problem this afternoon.
It was a slightly loose transfer case bolt( mounting bracket.) It only took about half a turn but it fixed to noise.
Again, Thank you all for your help.
I must say it turned out a lot less expensive than I thought it was going to.

[Homestar]

Isn't it just the best feeling when you find something like that. :)

Glad it's all sorted and didn't cost you anything.

[AndrewMilne]

Isn't it just the best feeling when you find something like that. :)

.........it is a great example of the value of this forum.

Accumulated past experience, plus a simple and common-sense suggestion that occurs more readily to a detached observer, can point the way to an easy solution.
Not every time by any means, but W.I.W.I.G. when it does.

[worane]

Although it was my local independent LR dealer who steered me straight, as usual Outback1 came up with the goods half a day later.( Right on the money again, thanks Ken.)
ALL OF YOU GUYS ARE AWESOME. Thanks again.
One more question.
Is it possible to buy a kit of 'O' rings and oil seals to fix the leaks in this Transfer case?

[Bohica]

There's this

4wdIndustries - Land Rover LT230 Transfer Case Gasket & Seal Kit Defender Discovery Range Rover Classic RTC3890 | 4wd Industries - Selling New and Used Vehicles, Genuine and High Quality Aftermarket parts In Maitland and around Australia (http://4wdindustries.com.au/land-rover-lt230-transfer-case-gasket-seal-kit-defender-discovery-range-rover-classic-rtc3890.html)