93 Defender gearbox issue

[CleanGetaway]

Hi Everyone,

Firstly I would like to thank you all for looking at my thread. I'm honestly on here to help my old man who is not computer savy.

He has owned his 93 Landrover Defender since new, Its a turbo diesel and has been the family wagon/farm truck/everything you can think of For many years.

He just called me up asking if I knew what his problem could be. It goes something like this:

Recently It was getting quite difficult to find the gears while driving, gradually getting worse. Slave cylinder not leaking and oil is O.K so He tried to keep her going. But now he cannot get into any gear while the Landy is turned on. He can change gear when it's off though. He did manage to get it into reverse but it was grinding like crazy.

He is sure that the clutch is fine, it's all there and could possibly be the gearbox.

Does anyone have any experience with this and can provide any information?

Thank you in advance!

From your TJ Wrangler owner friend,
Joe

[Jonnooh]

I'm no expert. But how could it not be the clutch not releasing? If not hydraulic it could be a mechanical fault. Does the pedal feel the same?

[mox]

Likely to be same problem my '97 build 300Tdi Defender 130 suddenly developed after about 200,000 km; Torsional vibration damper in centre of clutch plate started to disintegrate after rivets holding it together worked loose. Presumably plate , on which linings were less than half worn out was then crooked when pressure plate moved back so would be dragging against flywheel in one place while at the same time half a turn around would be dragging against the pressure plate. Result: Clutch will only partly disengage if at all.


I obtained a clutch overhaul kit from my regular supplier of Land Rover parts. Clutch and pressure plate were same as those originally installed, Valeo brand. Did not fancy installing another clutch plate that would probably also fail prematurely in the same way the original did with inadequate riveting. Instead, checked with ABS, then bought a more expensive one which looks and hopefully is better. Supplied by Exedy Australia. Apparently made by Daiken. I gather Sachs is another good quality make. Meanwhile, LR parts supplier accepted return of Valeo brand clutch plate. These should be much more reliable in V8's, which produce far less torsional vibration than 4 cylinder diesels.


So looks to me you need a clutch replacement. Having done one on my own vehicle, reckon best accessed by pulling motor out unless you need to do work on the gearbox and /or transfer box while at it. I took opportunity to replace original transfer box with another LT230 with different ratios better suited to my purposes.

[harro]

Does sound like the clutch is simply not disengaging completely.

This came up in another thread recently. If the small seal fails at the end of the plunger in the master cylinder fluid is pushed back into the reservoir rather than actuating the clutch this can cause the symptoms you have described.
Have a look at the colour of the clutch fluid, seal failures tend to turn the fluid a darker colour sometimes almost black.

*And there will be no visible leaks.


Fix is a new m/c or kit.

Cheers.

[strangy]

In addition to the above. Possible the clutch fork has failed, they can bend near the pivot.
Less likely also the spigot bush has seized

[harro]

In addition to the above. Possible the clutch fork has failed, they can bend near the pivot.
Less likely also the spigot bush has seized


Very good point and that vintage would make it a most likely culprit with I think all of those pressed metal clutch forks failing eventually.

[CleanGetaway]

Hi everyone,

Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it and i know he will too!

He has told me that the clutch feels the same, still a rock solid and squeeiky clutch lol.

If indeed the clutch, what brand clutch kit would you recommend? I have used Exedy on different vehicles in the past but land rovers might be different? I know 'mox' mentioned it above but if anyone can give me their preferred clutch kit that would be great.

[dromader driver]

if the fork has punched through it feels similar to normal clutch action but just comes up solid. mine was similar vintage when it broke.

new plate, pressure plate, bearing etc from repco or one of the sponsors here. the new clutch arms have a reinforcing plate across where they punch through. if it has never been changed since new the biggest issue is lifting the floor plates as the screws will probably be corroded.

About a days work with an engine crane in the door to allow the box to slide back far enough. ideally should have the flywheel skimmed if there is any marking or the plate has been down on the rivets which makes it a bit bigger job.

much nicer if you can get someone to do it.