Horrible whirring/grinding noise in front end

[PeterOZ]

As the title states the D3 has developed a whorrible noise in the front end which to my untrained ears sounds like the front diff.


The whirring/wining noise will decrease as I go into a corner but as I am slowing down it feels quite "lumpy"


It is booked into KHOR for tomorrow morning so fingers crossed.:confused:


Did some failt mild water fording last weekend so surely that would not have overly stressed anyting? Was very gentle with the fording.:angel:

[Tombie]

Hot diff meets cold water can mean it's got some water in there..

ALWAYS (emphasis) pays to check oil condition after a trip full of water crossings.

[PeterOZ]

Got diff meets cold water can mean it's got some water in there..

ALWAYS (emphasis) pays to check oil condition after a trip full of water crossings.



Well there is a big Note to Self!! Would not have expected water to be able to get into a sealed componenet. :angel:


Will get them to check the rear diff, transfer case etc as well.


cheers
P

[Jesters Td5]

Hint

When ever crossing water that is deeper than the lowest level of your rims then if possible give the diff etc time to cool down some before entering the water. I tend to stop and make a brew and in that time it's generally enough. If I know a track and there are several crossings I just cruise leisurely between them. Another thing to consider if you are doing regular crossings is to fit breather extensions to all the bits that might suck water in when submerged, especially when hot. Finally as mentioned check condition of fluids post trip.

Hope it's just a little water mate and nothing more damaged

Sent from my A51f using AULRO mobile app

[Tombie]

Certainly no component is actually sealed.
They have breathers..

However rapid change of temp - dunking hot into cold - results in pressure changes greater/quicker than the breathers can deal with and the water is drawn passed the seals...

[PeterOZ]

thaks guys. Have not relly done any off roading with it depite having the vehicle for 9 years.


a dumb thumbs mistake. :angel:


what is best fluid for the diffs, transfer case?


By the sound of the noises I'd say a bearing has carked it. :censored:

[Tombie]

Most oil companies have "Refer to dealer" for Front diff and Transfer case fluid - would be proprietary blend..

[PeterOZ]

Most oil companies have "Refer to dealer" for Front diff and Transfer case fluid - would be proprietary blend..



hmmmm surely you dont have to get it from the stealers but can obtain elsewhere?

[Tombie]

hmmmm surely you dont have to get it from the stealers but can obtain elsewhere?



My searching on multiple manufacturer/oil blending company sites all state refer to dealer.

If they've asked for a specific fluid to be made then yes, proprietary oil... similar to some systems on the D2 which for a long time you had to get ACE fluid from the dealer.

[PeterOZ]

Thanks mate.

Ok I have jacked up each front wheel and there is no play up and down or side to side in front wheel bearings.

Can't see any oil underneath from the front diff area. Can't check the fluid as I don't have a tool that fits the fill opening.

[Graeme]

Castrol Syntrax Longlife 75w90 for front diff and also rear diff if not an e-diff. TC and e-diff 2 different special LR oils.

[SBD4]

Given you had your engine replaced not long ago, you might want to check with an alternative mechanic as to whether or not the front diff breather was correctly installed after the work was done. If not then you may have an avenue to pursue with the engine repairer.

[PeterOZ]

Well some good news! :D


Was only a front passenger side wheel bearing.


Bad news is they have to order one in and the D3 wil be in overnight so no wheels till tomorrow afternoon.


all good.


thanks for all the replies and advice.
cheers
Peter

[Narangga]

After your dramas over the past few months it's good to hear that it has proven to be a cheaper outcome for you Peter. :)

[PeterOZ]

After your dramas over the past few months it's good to hear that it has proven to be a cheaper outcome for you Peter. :)



Yesss indeed!! Though to be fair the D3 has 214,500km on it so one has to expect a few things to need repair.


Replacement options are limited and there is nothing in the new vehicle range I fancy or can affford more to the point.
Only real option would be to source a low km D4 3.0.
Mind you that would buy a lot of repairs and I love my D3. Has a faily newish engine so will spend a few more $$$ on it.


Needs new trailing links and sway bar bushes as well as the air struts replaced. 2016 budget . . .

[Narangga]

Yes ours is up to 10 years and 230,000 km airframe (body & running gear) time so we know there is a reasonable amount to be spent on items that will wear out given its age.

Likewise it would be hard to change to another vehicle as it is always the extra cash to spend and also it is the devil that you don't know...

[PeterOZ]

Agreed though cost of replacement of the major components is highish compared to the resale value.


- engine $13 - 22k depending what option you go with, Territory or new LR long engine


- transmission - approx $5 - 7 k for recondtioned one fitted


- Diffs about $1500 each


- transfer case?? Maybe $1200


- air struts about $3000 - 4000


- CV joints $2 to 3k


I'll igonore brakes, rotors and LCA as they are pretty much consumables :cool:

[Tombie]

Even then it's still cheaper than 85k for a new one [emoji6]

A full respray, rebuild and custom interior could be done for less than half!

[PeterOZ]

In deed Tombie. My interior is VERY good and exterior as well, couple of scratches etc.


$85k+ buys a lot of repairs!


Besides I love my D3. When it is not broken :D


Latest on the repair. Parts are delayed a day as the freigh company lost them!


Should have it back tomorrow. Fingers crossed.

[PeterOZ]

Got the D3 back yesterday after work. They had to replace the whole passenger side front hub so not cheap. Cost of the hub assembly OMG! :censored:




Anyway it is back on the road so happy days! :D;)

[Tombie]

That's good to hear.

My press tool was dropped off by Basil135 the other day so this weekend I'm fitting lower arm bushes..

Should restore my Permagrin...

[PeterOZ]

That's good to hear.

My press tool was dropped off by Basil135 the other day so this weekend I'm fitting lower arm bushes..

Should restore my Permagrin...



that will keep you out of mischief for a few hours and work up a good sweat!


I had them check trailing links and swat bar bushes. they reckon they are ok but when I go over a bump or even the road lane markers I can hear them rattle. 214 k they would have to be close to being stuffed.

[shanegtr]

thaks guys. Have not relly done any off roading with it depite having the vehicle for 9 years.


a dumb thumbs mistake. :angel:


what is best fluid for the diffs, transfer case?


By the sound of the noises I'd say a bearing has carked it. :censored:
For diffs without the e-diff you'd be able to use most GL-5 spec oils without an issue, theres nothing really special about the LR diff, they all contain bearings and a hypoid gearset.


For the transfer case I'd use an oil that meets the spec as it contains clutch packs for the centre diff. I use royal purple syncromax as they list the shell TF 0753 spec