ARB LED driving lights

[PeterOZ]

Folks,
I am looking to replace the OME LR driving lights on my D3 with something a bit better.


Have been looking at the ARB LED driving lights. Does anybody have any experience with these? Flood vs Spot? I know that will open up a can of worms discussion.


I am planing on using my original LR driving light bracket - somehow:angel:
A LED light bar would be lovely but I am not keen on restricting any airflow into the grill which pretty much rules one out.


One thing I did not like on the ARB lights was the mounting screw on the side of the body. It invites thieves to nick them :nazilock::censored:


cheers
P

[Tombie]

Quality construction. However....

Not a lot of performance from ANY LED driving light...

Seriously - if you want real light and the ability to go Spot to Spread at your discretion. Then Fyrlyt...

Tech for the sake of tech isn't a good thing - especially if it results in a less useful product..

[PeterOZ]

Quality construction. However....

Not a lot of performance from ANY LED driving light...

Seriously - if you want real light and the ability to go Spot to Spread at your discretion. Then Fyrlyt...

Tech for the sake of tech isn't a good thing - especially if it results in a less useful product..



Yes have had a look at those but . . .


they are large! Larger than I really want. Something like the ARB ones are not too obtrusive. anyway I am just musing at the moment.

[Homestar]

I have some reasonable quality Chinese LED driving lights on my work Hilux - they are very good for what they are - I have one spot and one flood - I find they are very good at lighting up the sides of the road where animals may be lurking, and illuminate signage at a good distance. The light is very white, which has advantages and disadvantages. They light up things well, but I find there is too much glare for long trips and they are completely useless when ANY rain is falling as the light is so white they reflect too much, and they don't penetrate a long distance down the road.

I've seen the FYRLYT's in action (Tombie's actually :D)- very impressed with those, but for some applications an LED unit is fine IMO, just don't expect them to be the be all and end all of your lighting needs.

[PeterOZ]

thanks for that. I quite like the 'softer' light output of tradtional lights as it is kinder on the eyes.


hmmm hmmm hmmmmmm :angel:

[weeds]

Yes have had a look at those but . . .


they are large! Larger than I really want. Something like the ARB ones are not too obtrusive. anyway I am just musing at the moment.



I didn't think there was much difference is size....

[Tombie]

I didn't think there was much difference is size....



Diameter wise Fyrlyt are similar to the lower spec Intensity..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/875.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/876.jpg

[PeterOZ]

9000 Nemesis mmmmmm


What is the dimensions of the 9000 & 5000 anybody know? Cant find anything in the website.


disregard I found it.

[Tombie]

9000 Nemesis mmmmmm


What is the dimensions of the 9000 & 5000 anybody know? Cant find anything in the website.



Look up 2 answers [emoji41]

9000 and 5000 use same housing

[Tombie]

It's on the site under "products" [emoji41]
http://www.fyrlyt.com/fyrly-5000-nemesis9000

[PeterOZ]

thanks Tombie, found it just after you posted.


How do these thing mount? Could not see and drawings etc to show that.


I would like to use the existing lower part of the LR bracket which is on the D3 and from aethetics POV would look quite neat.


The 9000s are call my name though $990 ouch!! Especially when I need new shocks, bushes and trailing links.


Could probably sell off the original LR lights for a few bucks.

[BMKal]

The ARB LED lights come in two sizes, roughly 220mm and 190mm in diameter, whereas the Fyrlyt is 208mm in diameter. Probably the most significant difference in dimensions would be the depth of the lights, particularly if you are pushed for room on the front of your vehicle.

The ARB lights are 119mm and 90.2mm deep, while the Fyrlyt is 150mm deep.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/873.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/pmr989ted/)

If you are wanting to use the OEM Land Rover driving light mounting brackets on a D3 and don't have a bull bar, then I can see where the ARB lights might be a better fit. However, you will be paying for it. ;)

The prices shown above are list price for the ARB lights from their on-line catalogue, and are the price for EACH light. The price for the Fyrlyt is approximate (I don't have their current price available), and is for the top performing "Nemesis" lights - and is for a PAIR of lights. There is a cheaper option available from Fyrlyt - I think around $550 - $600 for a pair of Fyrlyt 5000's (same dimensions as Nemesis).

EDIT - Tombie beat me to it. But note that the $990 for a pair of Nemesis is for a PAIR - whereas the ARB prices are PER LIGHT. The Fyrlyt option is not so expensive by comparison.

[Tombie]

The Fyrlyts mount single bolt through the bottom of the billet base.

[PeterOZ]

thanks mate, will have to get teh trust tape measure out and see how much room I have to play with. The LR ones have little behind them but are quite deep so who knows. Otherwise a creative adaptor plate to push the mounting point forward 50mm or so may be needed.


Do you have any photos of the actulal mounting point?

[Tombie]

Go to link above at Fyrlyt and watch the images. [emoji6]

The mount can be turned 180 to move the lights forward also.... so would likely fix your issues..

The base is slotted about 1" to enable fine adjustment fore and aft.

[PeterOZ]

I did that but did not show the mounting plate

[LRD414]

Aaron40 has Fyrlyts on the front of his D4 with no bullbar.
Don't know if they protrude beyond front edge of bumper.

Cheers,
Scott

[Briar]

I got the Fyrlyt 5000 installed a about 10 weeks back. Used them a bit on recent 5 week trip to Alice and the centre. Run them on flood setting all the time. Good penetration and more natural light colour than the HID. They do help pick up animals on the side of the road better than the standard Disco lights. I have them angled out slightly show up both sides of the road rather than the centre. Very happy with them. Fit on ARB bar well.
113621

[Vern]

Almost considering changing my winch to fit a set of fyrlyts! Almost.
As for the arbs, personally i didn't think they performed that great. Led never makes the distance

[Tombie]

Almost considering changing my winch to fit a set of fyrlyts! Almost.
As for the arbs, personally i didn't think they performed that great. Led never makes the distance



You might not need to [emoji41][emoji6]

[Vern]

You might not need to [emoji41][emoji6]
Do you know something Mike? I asked them about a smaller light on the Facebook page, but my question went un answered!

[mikel]

I also would like to use a set of Fyrlyt's on my D4's ARB winch bar, but am not sure how that would affect the access to the winch lever etc. Has any body fitted under the same situation?

Thanks
Mike

[Tombie]

Yes Mikel. That's exactly my set up..
Still easy to access the winch freespool lever.

[AK83]

talk about shooting ones self in the foot!

I'm the type of person that gravitates towards a product based on the technical details they provide on their products, and looking at the fyrlyt website's info it appears to me to be a product to avoid!

It's a bit of a pity too, as the products themselves look OK and not too badly priced too, especially the ability to easily switch between spot or spread beam.

[Tombie]

How does it appear to be one to avoid?
Curious...

[PeterOZ]

curious, and couriouser . . . :angel:

[Tombie]

Ah that's right. He's the photographer that believes light for taking photos is the same as the best light to drive behind....

[weeds]

talk about shooting ones self in the foot!

I'm the type of person that gravitates towards a product based on the technical details they provide on their products, and looking at the fyrlyt website's info it appears to me to be a product to avoid!

It's a bit of a pity too, as the products themselves look OK and not too badly priced too, especially the ability to easily switch between spot or spread beam.



Last time I was on there website I thought they had plenty of tech info......

they have also attended 4WD club meetings to go through their product

you only have to ring them and they are more than happy to have a chat.

good after-sales support, they did have a hic-up with lens but that been sorted and gave me the confidence to purchase two more sets for our work cars.

Be interested to here where you think they fall short.

[Tombie]

Arthur, do you really believe light suited to photography is the same type of light needed for effective driving vision?

[PeterOZ]

Could be the light bent around a large celestial body . . .


Otherwise known as folding space, it's warp factor 5 Mr Sulu! [bigrolf]:lol2:

[Tombie]

Interestingly. The AMA has been studying the effects of High Intensity LED lighting and has begun to release some data..

This one relates to illuminating roads with "lights on a pole" however it has implications for all road lighting.

http://www.ama-assn.org/ama/pub/news/news/2016/2016-06-14-community-guidance-street-lighting.page

[Briar]

Interestingly. The AMA has been studying the effects of High Intensity LED lighting and has begun to release some data..

This one relates to illuminating roads with "lights on a pole" however it has implications for all road lighting.

AMA Adopts Community Guidance to Reduce the Harmful Human and Environmental Effects of High Intensity Street Lighting (http://www.ama-assn.org/ama/pub/news/news/2016/2016-06-14-community-guidance-street-lighting.page)

Interesting article. When I put the Fyrlyts on the "yellowness" of the halogen was quite apparent compared to the"whiteness" of the Discovery's Xenons. I purchased the Fyrlyts after extensive research. I was initially surprised as how "less white" they were, however, I have come to appreciate them more with use. The colour of the Fyrlyts is easy on the eye but it's true, they give much better "natural light" than HID or LED.

The ability to pick out roos, etc on the side of the road is definitely enhanced, with less blending of the wildlife into the roadside scrub. We are able to spot the wildlife much quicker even without the wildlife having to move first as seemed to be previously the case. There is greater contrast between roadside bush and a kangaroos fur at night compared to previously. The shadow cutoff is nowhere near as pronounced as with LED. I'm not talking about the edge of the light beam but simply over the irregularities of the road and verges. There is a better view of the terrain as a whole so rather than objects appearing to have sharp edges you actually see the features of the road and vegetation in far more detail.

Having extra red and yellow frequencies in the light curve of the Fyrlyts rather than the excess of blue in LED does make a difference imho.

Trevor

[Disco Muppet]

I hear lots of people saying 'I went to Fyrlyt from brand x/y/z in HID/LED and I'm not going back'
Never heard the opposite ;)

Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app

[AK83]

A few points to consider:

* the fyrlyts allow you to see more detail simply because they have either 150w or 250w globes! .. nothing to do with CRI.

* the CRI/relative intensity graphs they have on their site as 'back info' are hysterically silly.
I have no idea what he's trying to show with that, other than fyrlyts emit so mu IR(infra red), that they could be considered dangerous! remember they can be pumping out up to 500w!!

* Consider that most, if not all, sporting stadiums use massively powerful metal halide lighting. If you look at a generic metal halide spectrograph, it will look more like the warm led output, and nothing like the halogen output!
Note that when playing sports like cricket or footy under lights(eg. at the 'G') contrast is everything!

Here's a typical metal halide spectorgraph: https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/746.jpg

Now, while it's not quite exactly the same levels per wavelength, it's basic properties is more similar to the warm white LED, rather than to the dangerous IR emitting halogen!

* emitted light is not the same as reflected light!
Just because you're emitting lots of supposedly more contrasty red light, doesn't mean that light will reflect back well from the subject you're trying to see.
ie. the emissions in those graphs are in effect useless info for us humans!

So I can't fathom what it is that website is trying to explain!

As far as I can tell:
from those emission graphs, if that light is ouputting that much red and IR, then by definition it's wasting much of it's output, as humans see better in the green and blue spectrum!

I'll quote the text directly from the Wiki:


It has been established that the maximum spectral sensitivity of the human eye under daylight conditions is at a wavelength of 555nm, while at night the peak shifts to 507 nm.

from the wiki page (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spectral_sensitivity)

So why do you want red light either emitted or reflected, when our acuity levels resolve green(555nm) better during the day and bluer(507nm) better at night!
Is this not the exact opposite of what that fyrlyt website is trying to convey!! :confused:

Back to the red light emission of the spectrum:
This guy seems to think that because something is red that red light is required to see that subject? :confused:
IN the black text box in that spectorgraph area he seems to imply that because the animals in a natural environment are red/brown or whatever, that red light is needed to make them easier to see.
That's the impression I'm getting from that site.
If I have that wrong, then I apologise.
But that's not how light works.
red light in inherently very low contrast. If you don't know this, then you'll believe anything!
You've already seen it somehow somewhere, or even experienced it.
Imagine red lighting, at night .. it's easy on the eyes but it's very low powered, it allows you to view something lit up in a dark environment without losing contrast when viewing the darkness again.
And this guy wants me to believe that red light in the dark on a reddish animal is better for me to see?
if anything, the red subject is more likely to absorb the red light, rather than reflect it!

Like I said: based on the info provided on that site, those lights are something to avoid!
The better lights would be the warm white LEDs(if you're using the spectrograph to make an assessment) ..
even better for night time driving, the cool white LEDs would be the even better lights to use, as their concentrated blue/breen output isn't wasted.

Oh! and just so that you can understand where I'm coming from:
Yes I am the photographer than thinks light in photography is important, but not only for photography, driving, or reading or whatever .. it's all the same light to us!
It makes no difference for all intents and purposes, it's light, while we have nuance differences in the way we see light as individuals(ie. tastes and preferences).
Why my interest in light: I've been dabbling in UV/IR ( ultra violet/infra red, or the invisible spectrums) to see what it is we can't see.
To get a(proper) handle on it all, you need to have at least a basic understanding of light theories.
I'm in no way an expert, that much is for sure, but!!
I do know enough to know that using an emission spectrum to confirm a bunk proposition is (to put it simply) silly!

NOW!! the important part:
This doesn't imply that the lights are good. Like I said in my other post, the lights look really good, and I'm confident in my ability to predict that seeing them in person, would also impress me too.
I used to run 150w H3's in my Hella Rallye 2000's pencil beams.

sorry for the long post, but BS has to be called out for what it is, and I generally refuse to deal with companies that promote BS info.

[Briar]

Quote

"And this guy wants me to believe that red light in the dark on a reddish animal is better for me to see?
if anything, the red subject is more likely to absorb the red light, rather than reflect it!"

No, you are wrong and "this guy" is correct. We are talking about colour rendition at night not how our eyes react to different frequencies of the spectrum. You must remember that the colour we see from objects is the result of "colour subtraction" ( look it up). Think of it this way, during the day if you see a red car what is actually happening is that all the frequencies (colours of the rainbow simply) are striking the car from the sun. All of the frequencies are absorbed and we only see what is reflected off the object, ie not absorbed, so we see the car as red. Result is that the red car gets hot in the sun due to absorbing most frequencies of the light.

Similarly, during the day a black car gets even hotter as it absorbed virtually all light frequencies with less reflected for an observer to see. A white car essentially reflects all of the suns spectrum so we see all the frequencies, hence white light.

The colour we observe on any object is purely the result of what frequencies are reflected.

So I'm afraid you are mistaken. A red car appears red to us because the red frequency IS NOT absorbed but reflected back to our eyes, so we see it as red. At night time if you shone a blue light on a red car, virtually all of the blue light will be absorbed by the car and all you will see is a black car and you would only be able to see the car by contrast with surrounding objects. You need red frequencies to actually see the red car as they will be not absorbed but reflected so our eyes will perceive the red colour.

This is a pretty simplistic example but the principle holds true. Obviously, the more of the spectrum that the emitted light contains the more the combination of frequencies will be reflected so we will see the car in its true "daylight" colour.

A night, with animals it's no different. Lets assume a red kangaroo sitting in green bushes (yes I know this is simplistic). If you shone a blue light on these objects thay will all appear as shades of grey or dark with no or little colour reflected of the objects. They would tend to be high contrast but no colour differentiation so it would be hard to pick out the roo from the bush unless there was movement. If you added red light, the bush would still be blackish as it absorbs both blue and red, however, the roo would now show up as red as this frequency is not absorbed by the roo but reflected. You have to use some logic, if a colour frequency is absorbed by an object then how could your eyes see that colour?

In conclusion, if a driving light has more of all the colour spectrum in its emitted light then it follows that any object that that light impacts on will absorb whatever frequencies it needs and reflect back to our eyes the non absorbed frequencies. To see a red kangaroo at night, you need white light that impacts the roo and reflects back to your eyes the red frequencies so we see it as red. If it absorbed the red frequencies how would you see it as red as there would be no red light frequencies impacting your eyes? This is what Fyrlyt claim in that they state their emitted light mimics daylight better than what LED's can do. If that's the case then Fyrlyts will give a truer colour rendering at night compared to LED, independent of perceived brightness or power.

Read up on "Colour Addition" and "Colour Subtraction"

Trevor

[AK83]

LOL!
So if we take this to a more extreme situation, and we have a red rood against a red bush, and we shine a red coloured spot light on it, .. you're theory says that we'll differentiate the roo from the bushes more clearly!

I'd love to see that tested in the real world! :D

My experiments, although in a closed environment and mainly focused(pun intended) on photography, show the exact opposite effect.

A whiter/bluer light on a red on red subject is much easier to see with a cool white LED.

Colour subtraction is relevant in the sense that for a full spectrum capable device(which our eye's are definitely NOT!) makes sense(ie. UV/IR photography with the correct camera sensor).

You're confusing theory with reality.
Our eyes are capable in a limited bandwidth, and red is where the bandwidth cuts off. So as the light becomes more red, we see less of it.
Also, our eyes are more sensitive to green(as stated above, 555nm) tending to more blue wavelengths(507nm) at night, so those reflected frequencies overwhelm our ability to see red light.
This is why whiter light allows us to see better at night.

And you're trying to tell us that all those high priced luxury car makers are spending millions of dollars in researching better lights on their cars and making them more red?
.. are you serious?
Check any new high end Merc/BMW?/whatever and they're lights are all graduating to a deeper blue colour level, with every generation.
And all those manufacturers are going the wrong way?
I hardly think so.

What makes those fyrlyts impressive is one simple fact .. they're power output .. simple as that! 2x 150w or 250w is put simply a ship load of power(just like those metal halide MCG lights are).

Red light by it's physical property is a low contrast lighting effect, both in how we see it in reality and it's very wavelength property.
Some of the trucks I drive have nightime interior lights for this exact purpose.
I can drive with the (red) night lights on very barely see the controls in the truck, and just barley make out (say) a map or something, but reading fine detail is extremely difficult.
When they give me my load sheet and it's the pink type, it's nigh on impossible to read under those red night running lights, even with my glasses on.
But the white and blue run sheets are easy enough for me to read(without my cheapo $2 glasses).
This is a completely contrary experience to the theoretical info you've provided.
Reason why is simply that our eyes are not full spectrum!
That is, we(humans) can't clearly see red light, irrespective of whether it's emitted or reflected, added or subtracted!

Lower wavelengths (white to blue to UV) allow more fine detail to be captured as the fine detail becomes smaller and smaller.
While that is an extreme situation, and very relevant in full spectrum photography, the theory still extends to the real world of human visibility as well.

[Briar]

"So if we take this to a more extreme situation, and we have a red rood [sic] against a red bush, and we shine a red coloured spot light on it, .. you're theory says that we'll differentiate the roo from the bushes more clearly!"

You are being silly here. I didn't say anything like that.

In this simplistic example that you gave, with understanding colour subtraction, what would happen is:

Firstly the bush is green and the roo is red, (that's how it normally works). If a red spot light was shone on both the roo would not absorb the red light but reflect it, so we would see it as red. The bush would absorb the red frequencies and there would be nothing to reflect so we would see it as "black". I make no comment about how bright this would be or how our eyes would perceive the brightness in terms of the frequencies that our eyes perceive. I am purely talking about colour rendition.

In order to see reddish objects at night in their true colour we need to have red light in the emitted light in order to have them reflect red light back to our eyes. This was my initial point. It is basic physics.

In general, a 150w LED light and a 150w fyrlyt side by side, the LED will probably seem brighter due to the higher amount of blue light emitted. However, most objects in our environment that we want to look at, at night with driving lights are green (bush) and "brownish/reddish" (animals). With an LED light these object may seem "brighter" but there will be less colour contrast. To see red animals "as reddish" you need to have red right in the emitted light. This was my original point which you seem to not understand.

Obviously, there is a lot more to how good a light is and a lot is subjective.

Quote:
"This is why whiter light allows us to see better at night."

Here you must mean that a light that contains more blue in it's emitted spectrum is "whiter" at night, such as Xenon or LED. What you are really saying is that they seem "brighter" as our eyes are more sensitive to blue frequencies.

In reality, true white light is "sunlight" and this contains all the spectrum. For any driving light to be truly "white" the aim would be to mimic sunlight, would it not? The more any driving light attempts to mimic the suns frequency output the better it will be in rendering true colour in what is reflected to our eyes.

Many car manufacturers are going to Xenon, Hid, LED as you suggest. There are lots of reasons for this, but to imply that just because they have done this it makes it better to distinguish red roos from green bush in Australia is naive. If these lights have less red light in their emitted spectrum it will make it harder to see anything that is "reddish" in it's true colour.

Let's imagine for a second as a "thought experiment" the the orange colour Sodium Vapour lamps that have been used as street lamps. Lets assume for the sake of the experiment that these lights were really, really bright and car manufacturers started installed these lamps as car head lamps. Whilst, they might appear bright,the colour rendition of the reflected light back to our eyes would be terrible as what is being emitted is a limited range of the "daylight" spectrum. Similarly, Xenon, LED lights being installed now in many cars, do often appear brighter to our eyes but as they lack red light in their emitted spectrum there will be no red light reflected from objects as there is no red light available from the light source in the first place. pretty simple.

It's not all about "brightness".

[rangieman]

Some interesting argument`s here :)
As has been quoted the Led technology is not there yet for distance but is a still a very good bright light depending on the quality which is major concern ;)
My self i have 70 w Hid IPF spot beam driving light`s and a 42" light bar :thumbsup:
The driving lights take care of the distance and the light bar takes care of the side of the road and that does it for me .

[Tombie]

That it may be - and it's also damaging your eyes!

[BMKal]

I'm afraid all the techno-babble doesn't do a lot for me, especially when it's quoted from wikipedia.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/732.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/y34pvi21n/)

All of the lights shown above have been on the front of my D4 - each set for a reasonable period of time. Until recently, I traveled the 600km between Perth and Kalgoorlie regularly for work, mostly at night - plus the occasional trip across the Nullarbor.

The lights shown are Hella Predator HID (external ballast), X-Ray Vision (Britax) HID (internal ballast), and Fyrlyt Nemesis 9000 Halogen (currently mounted on the vehicle). Also, there is a Baja Designs 40 inch LED bar mounted up under the roof rack - has been one of these on the vehicle since shortly after I got it home from the dealers.

Cost - (from the interweb - not necessarliy what I paid for them)
Hella Predators : anywhere between ~ $900 and $1200 EACH LIGHT
X-Ray Vision : around $550 to $600 EACH LIGHT
Fyrlyt Nemesis : RRP $990 for a PAIR of lights
Baja Designs LED : $1200

Without any doubt at all, the Fyrlyt Nemesis 9000 lights give the best performance of all of these compared - and by quite a considerable margin. At close range, the LED light bar provides the cleanest and most "full" lighting immediately in front of the vehicle (especially out to the sides) and is undoubtedly the best choice for off-road driving at low to moderate speeds. However, it is almost painful at times to have this light bar turned on when on the highway, especially if there are a lot of reflective roadside signs around (or on new sections of highway such as near Coolgardie at the the moment, where a lot of very bright "cats eyes" reflectors have been installed).

Similarly, the HID lights can also be painful where there are a lot of reflective roadside signs and / or cats eye reflectors installed. The "range" of the HID lights is similar to that of the Fyrlyt Nemesis lights - but they have nowhere near the "spread".

I have found that the "warmer" colour of the light from the Fyrlyts is definitely much easier on the eyes, both at long distance and especially at closer range when there are reflective signs etc present. It is DEFINITELY easier to pick out a roo on the road at distances greater than about 250 - 300 metres with the Fyrlyts than either of the HID lights trialled - I assume because of the difference in colour of the light emitted. As far as seeing wildlife off to the sides of the road at long distance is concerned - there really is no comparison. The LED bar hasn't got the range, and the HID lights do not have the spread (note that one of the Predators is a "flood" light). The Fyrlyts, whether set on "spot" or "spread" (easily selectable) easily out-perform the other lights in this respect.

With the Fyrlyts, there is no "hot spot" in the centre of the beam that you typically experience with most other lights - the light is more "solid" and evenly dispersed right across the full width of the area lit up - which extends well off to both sides of the road. I have seen this referred to as a "wall of light" - a pretty good description in my opinion. Driving in rain / mist / fog or smoky conditions, the HID's are a pain in the proverbial, as the "white" light reflects off what is in the air and glares back at you. I have had to turn them off on more than one occasion because of this. On the other hand, these adverse conditions do not seem to affect the light from the Fyrlyts at all, and I have never had to turn them off in these conditions. Add to that the "warm-up" time experienced with HID lights every time you turn them on - I think it is not difficult to pick a clear winner here.

Having said all of the above - would I ever change back from Fyrlyts to HID ?

Well, in my case, the answer is probably yes - but ONLY because my young bloke wants a set of Fyrlyt Nemesis for his Amarok when he gets a bull bar installed, and given that I rarely drive long distance at night any more, and still have a choice of two very good sets of HID driving lights sitting in the shed doing nothing but collecting dust, it is difficult to justify the cost of buying yet another set of lights. If I was still working in my old job though and travelling a lot at night - there is no chance that I would replace the Fyrlyts with anything else I've seen. While I have never owned nor trialled a set of round LED driving lights on my vehicle, I have recently driven another vehicle fitted with ARB Intensity driving lights. I would rate them similar to the Baja Designs LED light bar I already have - a very good light for short range and wide angle illumination, but they do not rate as driving lights in comparison to the Fyrlyts in my opinion.

[weeds]

Time to bow out.......it's all gone over my head.....I nearly gave up on the light with lens issue but I reckon the issue is solved.

Re: wiki, I reckon it's a pretty good resource, people are pretty quick to correct in-accuracies

[BMKal]

Time to bow out.......it's all gone over my head.....I nearly gave up on the light with lens issue but I reckon the issue is solved.

Re: wiki, I reckon it's a pretty good resource, people are pretty quick to correct in-accuracies

Both lenses on my Fyrlyts cracked in a wierd looking radial pattern around the centre shortly after I installed them too. But as soon as I let Paul know about this, I had two new replacement lenses a couple of days later at no cost to me. The new lenses have now been in for well over a year, with no further problems. From what Paul told me, they did have an issue with an earlier batch of lenses.

Not knocking wiki as a resource - it more than likely provides very accurate information, which may or may not be relevant to the topic being discussed. My point is that I'd much rather rely on my own first hand experience and direct comparison of different types of light than be swayed by techno-babble, regardless of where it is sourced from. :)

But everyone's experience is likely to be different from others. My wife absolutely hates both HID and LED (especially on vehicles coming towards her as she can't see past them) - whereas bright lights coming towards me don't really bother me at all.

[weeds]

Both lenses on my Fyrlyts cracked in a wierd looking radial pattern around the centre shortly after I installed them too. But as soon as I let Paul know about this, I had two new replacement lenses a couple of days later at no cost to me. The new lenses have now been in for well over a year, with no further problems. From what Paul told me, they did have an issue with an earlier batch of lenses.

Not knocking wiki as a resource - it more than likely provides very accurate information, which may or may not be relevant to the topic being discussed. My point is that I'd much rather rely on my own first hand experience and direct comparison of different types of light than be swayed by techno-babble, regardless of where it is sourced from. :)

But everyone's experience is likely to be different from others. My wife absolutely hates both HID and LED (especially on vehicles coming towards her as she can't see past them) - whereas bright lights coming towards me don't really bother me at all.



Oh Goodo

[rangieman]

That it may be - and it's also damaging your eyes!

Thank you Dr i`ll take that on board with all the other concern`s in the world;)

[Tombie]

Thank you Dr i`ll take that on board with all the other concern`s in the world;)



You're welcome. [emoji12]

[Babs]

While DR Tombie is diagnosing problems, I have this rash on my left ........... Ha ha ha :D

Cheers, Babs :D Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

[donh54]

Interesting thing I noticed on this topic. Many moons ago, I found that using an issue red-filtered army torch, whilst playing cards in the back of a Mark, the markings on the hearts and diamonds cards were impossible to see.

As far as the types of lights go, I found hid lights to be very tiring, but good for long distance light. Led lights are great for close vision.

My current setup is a Traxide headlight harness, and a lightbar. Now that I'm not driving for a living anymore, I prefer not to travel at night, but if I have to, I do just what people living in the bush have done for years, if you can't see clearly, slow down!

[Tombie]

While DR Tombie is diagnosing problems, I have this rash on my left ........... Ha ha ha :D

Cheers, Babs :D Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner



A concoction of Deep Heat, Tabasco sauce and Parade gloss boot polish applied topically should see results [emoji48]

[Babs]

A concoction of Deep Heat, Tabasco sauce and Parade gloss boot polish applied topically should see results [emoji48]

Bah ha ha ha :) OUCH❗️

I have actually had both those experiences before, the deep heat applied after a shower on a hamstring injury I should have put my jocks on first :o

The other is the hot sauce I bought from Vegas, it's called Death Sauce. A tear drop of this stuff is enough to spoil any food. I put some on a sandwich for lunch and there was residue around the lid which I got on my fingers when putting the lid back on, after lunch went for a whiz (should have washed my hands first) and it was the most excruciating pain I have ever felt, I reckon a tube of deep heat applied would have been a relief :o



113797

There is a reason why this bottle is packaged in a coffin ❗️

Cheers, Babs :D Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

[PeterOZ]

Slow down . . . . , now there is a novel concept!! :angel:

[PeterOZ]

I still have not measured up the existing LR lights on my D3 as my new lady keeps me rather distracted :cool:;)


But I shall get onto that job shortly. Also having just forked out to get the new hub assembly replaced my pocket money does not allow for new lights at the moment so will continue to read all the experts considered opinions on the subject in the meantime. :D

[Tombie]

Slow down . . . . , now there is a novel concept!! :angel:



When you have a thousand kilometre drive to do that's not always a viable option!!!

[Disco Muppet]

Slowing down is for caravans and biccy dippers.
:D


Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app

[BMKal]

When you have a thousand kilometre drive to do that's not always a viable option!!!


Slowing down is for caravans and biccy dippers.
:D


Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app

Yeah ................ then a "cannonball run" would be like a day or three at a ladies' bowls tournament. :o

[Vern]

You might not need to [emoji41][emoji6]
According to fyrlyt, i will be needing to change my winch!😢

[Tombie]

According to fyrlyt, i will be needing to change my winch![emoji22]



Can you post some frontal pics of your vehicle?

[Vern]

Can you post some frontal pics of your vehicle?
Its not a d3 or 4. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/656.jpg
Only pic i could find

Can you post some frontal pics of your vehicle?
Its not a d3 or 4.

[Basil135]

Yeah ................ then a "cannonball run" would be like a day or three at a ladies' bowls tournament. :o

Did someone say, "Cannonball"?

Where are we going? :twisted:

[Narangga]

I still have not measured up the existing LR lights on my D3 as my new lady keeps me rather distracted :cool:;)



You mean she hasn't offered to do it? :p

[Disco Muppet]

Haven't you got a roof rack Vern? Whack a pair up there and call it done.


Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app

[Vern]

Haven't you got a roof rack Vern? Whack a pair up there and call it done.


Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app

That's my ahh second last resort, last resort is ditch the high mount for a slow mount:(

[Disco Muppet]

Alternatively, I think if you were prepared to go grindy weldy you could shift the winch across towards the passenger side slightly, then you'd fit a pair in there? Seems like it's only the drivers side that's the issue?

Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app

[Vern]

Alternatively, I think if you were prepared to go grindy weldy you could shift the winch across towards the passenger side slightly, then you'd fit a pair in there? Seems like it's only the drivers side that's the issue?

Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app
And the issue that my washer bottle is next to the winch and behind the winch is my water to air heat exchanger, I will just keep pondering on it. Drivers side has 110mm between winch and bar, would be quite a move across.

[Tombie]

I'd bet my left nut they will fit sitting just forward of the top bar.

Having no sharp edges will be legal too as Behind point of first contact :)

[AK83]

When you have a thousand kilometre drive to do that's not always a viable option!!!

LOL!

my 'holidays' have generally involved 3, maybe 4 days of driving around aimlessly.
Longest trip was to Ayers Rock over a longish weekend(well, it was for me) Thursday night to Sunday night. That was all the time I had.

Speeding generally leads to problems down the track, which come back to haunt you later and slow you down in ways you don't expect.

On those so called holidays I sometimes allow myself, I can drive for anywhere between 3000 - 4500 or so klms .. generally at about 80-90k/h.

My reasoning is that I'm on holiday and almost certainly to get away from the rat race, with every agro idiot doing my head in .. so I'm in go slow mode in a kind'a deliberate manner!
Getting to a destination half an hour sooner over a 10 hour period is meaningless!

[Disco Muppet]

Some of us have **** to do, even on our holidays.
Some of us do cannonball runs because we have much to do and less time to do it in.
One man's holiday shouldn't interrupt another mans working day.

Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app

[Tombie]

Half hour over 10 hours? What pace are you talking?

I'm talking sitting on/around the posted limit at night. Compared to 80km/h that's an additional 30km for every hour driven... or 300km... a significant difference.

It also leads to less fatigue if the distance must be covered.

You're also assuming I do this just for fun (I do that quite a bit admittedly) but I also do it for work...

We don't all live in suburbia.

[Tombie]

One such trip had us do Whyalla to Nullabour and back in a single run...

That's 1,800+km and took just on 16 hours...
An average of 112km/h..

At your 80km/h we would have been behind the wheel for 22.5 hours. [emoji15]

[BMKal]

One such trip had us do Whyalla to Nullabour and back in a single run...

Baaaahhhh .................. that's not even half way. :p

That's 1,800+km and took just on 16 hours...
An average of 112km/h..

At your 80km/h we would have been behind the wheel for 22.5 hours. [emoji15]

And at 80km/h, would add almost an extra day each way for us travelling to Melrose. ;)

[LandyAndy]

We did 4320km in 2 weeks up to Exmouth and back.
Speedo said 110kmh,GPS 107kmh.I happily sat on the indicated 110kmh,I wasn't in any sort of hurry.
Twice got the blue lights turned on and a big thumbs up from the officer steering,some sort of a new way of the plods thanking you for not speeding????
Andrew

[AK83]

....

I'm talking sitting on/around the posted limit at night. Compared to 80km/h that's an additional 30km for every hour driven... or 300km... a significant difference.

....

I s'pose.
But then again every state is a bit different I guess.
Vic is much harder to sit on the limit, which is 100 anyhow for the vast majority of our road system.
But as a case in point, try sitting on the speed limit driving from Melb to Malacoota.

1. easy-ish on the freeway section, but there's always some idiot in the passing lane at the slowest speed.
2. once you get off the freeway, you have to pass through about 3000 meaningless towns, most of which have 40km/h speed limits :p
3. of course the Vic government have a tendency to build freeways with dangerous cross(90 degree) intersections, with the inevitable major accident blackspots situation happening .. and their response is to lower the speed limit to 80, which if course no one does, so the cops sit there laying in wait and you're now into license losing speeding infringement territory as you're over 15k/h over the posted limit.
Added to this, the point that the accident rate doesn't drop either!
15 years later they finally decided that a million deaths at this one blackspot probably deserves a proper overpass style intersection.

So with all that, trying to maintain a 'speed limit' average speed(in Victoria) is futile in most circumstances.

I guess one needs to factor whether it's costing you money to drive, or whether you're getting paid an hourly rate to drive .. guess which category I'm currently under :D
But in saying that, when I did drive for my own pay rate, I still drove in a similar manner anyhow.I wasn't paid enough to wear my vehicles out at a faster rate than I prefer, and anything less than 500K klms wasn't acceptable.