View Full Version : Perentie 6x6 8,000lb winch
GypzyJack
12th September 2016, 11:19 AM
I have 2 Perentie 6x6's. On one of them, when you engage the PTO, the PTO drive shaft doesn't engage at the PTO housing beneath the gearbox.
It appears that the mechanical engagement is working. Can anyone shed some
light on what the problem may be or point me in the right direction?
cheers
Dervish
12th September 2016, 05:40 PM
You could try removing the PTO cover; which - confusingly in this instance - is not where the PTO is, but is the round one on the rear of the transfer case at the top. With this off, you should be able to see if you have the chain in place that drives the PTO drive unit.
Blknight.aus
12th September 2016, 07:58 PM
first thing to check is the actuation arm. sometimes the cable is out of adjustment and wont allow you to pull it into full engagement.
next thing to check is the connection at the output of the PTO.
the UJ yoke slides over the output shaft, if its not secured or installed properly the PTO output will spin inside the yoke.
snapped chains are uncommon, if its been over abused and the limiter is slipping then you'll hear a rattling noise as the torque limiter slips.
GypzyJack
16th September 2016, 08:13 AM
first thing to check is the actuation arm. sometimes the cable is out of adjustment and wont allow you to pull it into full engagement.
next thing to check is the connection at the output of the PTO.
the UJ yoke slides over the output shaft, if its not secured or installed properly the PTO output will spin inside the yoke.
snapped chains are uncommon, if its been over abused and the limiter is slipping then you'll hear a rattling noise as the torque limiter slips.
Hi again
I now have the accusation shaft driving the PTO, and the PTO shaft turning. I then looked at the yoke where the PTO shaft attaches to the winch itself, and discovered that the yoke is turning on the winch drive coupling, and that there is a threaded hole on the outer housing of the yoke coupling which I imagine is for a shear pin to prevent more significant damage to the winch/pto in the event of misuse!
Once I resolve that issue, I am left with the dog lever arm not vertical, and it would appear because of its proximity to one of the bull bar upright brackets, it will knock against this bracket before being vertical as instructed in the winch operation instructions inside the cab.
On the other 6x6 I have the length of steel rod which the dog lever is constructed of, is less distance horizontally between the winch housing no the bend to vertical, therefore clearing the bull bar upright bracket by about half a centimeter!
I do have photos of the two 6x6' winch dog levers showing the differences but not sure how pics are posted in this site, if allowed at all!
I look forward to your comments.
Cheers, Jack
weeds
16th September 2016, 10:28 AM
I didn't realize the army one had sheer pins fitted......not that I ever removed one. I figured the torque limiter was the protection.
From memory the sheer pin is brass......could be wrong.
I always keep meaning to have a close look at mine (civvie) and arrange a spare sheer pin.
GypzyJack
16th September 2016, 12:00 PM
update:
You are quite correct, weeds.
It turns out after having another. loser inspection is morning in better light that the outer yoke housing is NOT turning on the winch shaft.
There is in fact a keyway on the shaft, and the threaded hole looks like it's for a grease nipple though I haven't sized it yet.
So the winch operation is such that I have:
1) PTO control cable engagement of the accuation lever for the PTO
2) the PTO driving the PTO shaft to the winch
however, I can't move the dog lever to the vertical position either because it is either:
a) jammed in the "IN" position, or
b) the roller frame is located too close to the dog lever to allow it to move into the vertical position
The problem with (b) is that it doesn't look like the dog lever is in any new position than it always has been I.e. no evidence of lack of paint which might enidicate that it's out further than it should be even though that does appear to be the case when compared with the other 6x6.
End Result:
I have operation of the winch mechanics right upwind itself...but the dog lever and winch don't seem to work.
Cheers, Jack
weeds
16th September 2016, 12:40 PM
On mine.....
The UJ is keyed the the input shaft on the winch
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/548.jpg
The other end of the UJ has a sheer pin...maybe check both ends. Just looked at mine and it looks copper ish
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/549.jpg
Re: lever position,
- vertical is disengaged
- On an angle pointing toward the outer of the car bull bar upright is engaged
I can only assume the bit of metal welded on to the lever is to keep the dog clutch disengaged and give the operator something to lift up to engage. These handles were never I place when I served and had a 6x6 GMV.
To engage you need to push (hold pressure) on the lever toward the outside of car while turning the drum until the dog clutch engages.
weeds
16th September 2016, 01:02 PM
I only drove through burpengary an 1hr ago...I could have dropped in.
Dervish
16th September 2016, 05:05 PM
The military units don't have shear pins, over-torque protection is built in to the PTO unit as suspected. The winch will only slip into the engaged position - lever less vertical as Weeds said - when the winch drum is in one of two positions, both 180 degrees from each other. If you want to engage the winch, pull the cable out with a bit of pressure on the lever towards the driver's side of the vehicle, it will slip in when the drum reaches the correct orientation.
GypzyJack
16th September 2016, 05:34 PM
first thing to check is the actuation arm. sometimes the cable is out of adjustment and wont allow you to pull it into full engagement.
next thing to check is the connection at the output of the PTO.
the UJ yoke slides over the output shaft, if its not secured or installed properly the PTO output will spin inside the yoke.
snapped chains are uncommon, if its been over abused and the limiter is slipping then you'll hear a rattling noise as the torque limiter slips.
Thanks Dave
Below I have an update as of this morning.
After testing the operation today, The PTO shaft is turning at the winch, but the winch drum is not turning, nor can I draw out anymore winch rope. Does this suggest that the dog lever is locked in the "IN" position I.e @ 45degrees to the vertical.
From the operation of the other 6x6 winch, when the dog lever is in the upright or vertical position the drum can be turned by hand to draw out the winch rope, which suggests that with the problem winch drum being immoveable it is in the "IN" position!
Your comments would be appreciated.
Cheers
Jack
Bearman
16th September 2016, 05:43 PM
Just a minor detail but the 6x6 winch is 9000lb. The 4x4 one is 8000.
Sounds like something has gone wrong with the engaging dog on your winch. or else the key has either broken or come out of the winch mainshaft drive. Another scenario is that the worm drive wheel is stripped but that's unlikely.
GypzyJack
16th September 2016, 08:37 PM
Thanks for the heads up, Brian...on the winch size.
Is it difficult to dismantle the winch to get at the main drive?
Cheers, Jack
PS
Where did I get this "Fossicker" nic from?
laughs
Bearman
17th September 2016, 07:07 AM
Thanks for the heads up, Brian...on the winch size.
Is it difficult to dismantle the winch to get at the main drive?
Cheers, Jack
PS
Where did I get this "Fossicker" nic from?
laughs
Unfortunately you have to remove it from the vehicle to dismantle it Jack. You will have to drain the oil first otherwise it will spill out of the boltholes on the drive side when you remove them. Check the lever side first where there is no oil. Take the round cover off and see what you find there. The lever moves an engaging dog which is allen keyed on the mainshaft which goes thru the centre of the drum. Check that the key is in position and the dog is functioning. If all looks ok there your problem will be on the other end where the worm drive and gear is located. " Fossicker" is what everyone gets when they first subscribe on here.:) Cheers
BreakingBad
30th November 2016, 10:15 PM
Did you manage to resolve this?
If so, what was the issue?
If not, can you advise whether the winch including shafts etc. are M8000 or M9000?
Because as I understand it, the M8000 has 19mm shafts whereas the M9000 has 22mm shafts and I'm wondering whether it could be a mismatch of the two? ie: 22mm shafts/yoke from PTO connecting to 19mm shaft on M8000 winch? Would that account for things not rotating correctly? And maybe as a result the winch got stuck in position where it thinks it is under load. Would rotating in reverse 'unload' the winch enough to allow the dog clutch to disengage?
GypzyJack
2nd December 2016, 08:52 PM
Yes, I resolved what the problem was.
There was evidence that both winches had been used in the bo 6x6's and from evidence of mud I assume that the 6x6 with the broken winch was badly bogged.
After removing the winch from the vehicle and dismantling the dog lever side, I discovered that the dog lever had been pulled forward out do the housing, probably got caught up in the which rope attached from the other 6x6 ( i can't imagine that much force coming from a hands-on manual repositioning of the lever), and destroyed the cast yoke inside.
Cheers, Jack
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