DIY - Installing brake controller

[Brick]

Installed my Redarc Tow-Pro Elite brake controller today. Thought I would create this DIY for everyone else.

Installing the brake controller is fairly straightforward in the L494 compared to my previous installs on a D3 and D4. There is a factory plug to connect to, just a matter of getting the connections correct. The best way to hook into the factory plug is to get a Tekonsha 3035-P adapter. There are no other markings on the plug to be able to purchase it as a stand alone item.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/316.jpg

You only need the plug off the end, unless you are installing a Tekonsha unit of course.

Step 1: remove the cover under the dash. Use a 7mm or 9/32 spanner/socket to remove the three screws. Pull the cover forward slightly and it should drop to the floor. If you don't want to disconnect the footwell light, it will sit alongside the transmission tunnel while connected.

Step 2: locate the factory plug. It sits to the right hand side of the brake pedal. Warning: you will need to get flat on your back if you want to be able to eye-ball it. Helps if you place the seat as far back as possible.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/317.jpg

Steps 3: locate where you which to install the head unit. I wanted to install mine in the strip that runs across the top of the air vent between the instruments and the door, but you need to remove the instrument surround and was going to be a pain to remove and reinstall everything. I removed the side cover that sits on the end of the dash (use trim tools) and noted that there appeared to be some space on the other side of the vent.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/318.jpg

I then removed the two screws seen at the top of the side of the vent surround (white paint dabbed). Use a T20 driver to remove. The surround then pulls off. Will require a firm tug.

I then removed the padded panel between the vent and the steering wheel. Again requires a firm tug to remove. I pulled the top first and then the bottom.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/319.jpg

Given the space to install the head unit and run the cable to the main unit, I decided to install to the side between the two tabs. This would also require some of the rib on the back of the panel to be removed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/320.jpg

Step 4: installing the head unit required a slightly larger hole than the 10mm in the instructions. I also dremelled the 4 ribs surrounding the knob on the head unit (forgot to get a photo of this). This was done because of the thickness of the panel meant it would not sit proud enough to install the locking collar. You also need to trim the cover of the panel so that the head unit can sit correctly. I used some modelling knives I had sitting around.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/321.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/322.jpg

You then reinstall in reverse order. Install the lead from the head unit first and poke it through the opening, it will drop down into the footwell ready to be hooked up to the main unit.

Step 5: time to prepare the plug. After a bit of double checking, here is the mapping for the plug.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/323.jpg

The Tekonsha plug requires the blue and black leads to be swapped around, and the white lead moved from one end to the other. Here is how it comes as supplied.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/324.jpg

And this is how it needs to look once changed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/325.jpg

To move the leads, you need to remove the red wedge by pressing firmly with a pen or similar on the side of the plug on the red dot. Once that is removed, hold the tab on the open end of the relevant lead to the middle of the plug and pull the lead. You can see them in this shot sitting against the red wedge.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/326.jpg

I cut the plug with a little bit of lead for each wire from the Tekonsha connector, and then joined them to the leads from the Redarc connector. Join each lead to the same colour lead from the Redarc connector.

Step 6: install the main unit to something solid under the dash. There is a reasonable amount of room above the the pedals, just a tight squeeze getting in there to have a look. I mounted my main unit on the steel bracket that ran from the firewall above the brake pedal. Used double sided tape and a couple of cable ties. This photo is looking straight up.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/327.jpg

Then install the cable from the head unit to the main unit, and the connector to the factory plug, and the job is done. Remember to reinstall the cover below the dash with the three 7mm screws.

Here is the finished view of the controller on the dash.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/328.jpg

[simmo1]

Cameron,

A good solution. Did you fit a diode in their somewhere, I understand that this is desirable.

Cheers, Simmo

[Brick]

Cameron,

A good solution. Did you fit a diode in their somewhere, I understand that this is desirable.

Cheers, Simmo

Simmo,

No have not. Appears to be working fine at the moment. Found an old thread in a US forum and they appear not to use a diode either. I assume because the plug is part of the factory harness, it would be connected such that you wouldn't get the signal travelling back through the wiring.

Time will tell i suppose. Travelling 1100kms tomorrow with the van, should be a good test.

I will edit the original post early next week with the link to the photos in Flickr where they are clearer.

[Brick]

For some reason can't seem to edit the original post, so here are the links to a clearer image of each photo.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/63942093@N03/29815082866/in/dateposted-ff/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/63942093@N03/29767760021/in/dateposted-ff/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/63942093@N03/29557480600/in/dateposted-ff/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/63942093@N03/29557480320/in/dateposted-ff/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/63942093@N03/29767723581/in/dateposted-ff/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/63942093@N03/29850488365/in/dateposted-ff/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/63942093@N03/29815090366/in/dateposted-ff/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/63942093@N03/29741599812/in/dateposted-ff/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/63942093@N03/29223136384/in/dateposted-ff/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/63942093@N03/29557470550/in/dateposted-ff/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/63942093@N03/29223197124/in/dateposted-ff/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/63942093@N03/29224085653/in/dateposted-ff/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/63942093@N03/29224085123/in/dateposted-ff/

[Burble]

Just installed a Teksonsha P3 using the 3035-p adapter in my MY14 autobiography... These instructions were perfect... Plug and play.

[Halcyon68]

Thanks Cameron
this is really an easy install
Ray

[Geedublya]

Just an update to this thread.

I was concerned about whether power line to the brake controller was fused as I couldn't find any reference to it in the owner's manual.
I downloaded the wiring diagram from topix and it shows that both the power input (30A) and the brake switch (5A) are fused.

I was about to put a 30A reseting cct breaker in the power line so this saves some effort.

I have attached the diagram for reference.

[NathanAird]

Does anyone know where the fuse is on the D5, that runs the constant 12 volts to the pre-wired loom for the trailer brakes? (The plug above the brake pedal).

Thank you.

[Graeme]

The D5 passenger compartment fuse panel has FL8, a 30A fusible link, for the brake controller module.

[twscoot]

Hi All.
Can anyone in the Brisbane area recommend a mobile installer to fit a Redarc Elite brake controller and run an Anderson plug for my new (to me) RRS?
Cheers TIA Andrew

[twscoot]

Hi All.
Can anyone in the Brisbane area recommend a mobile installer to fit a Redarc Elite brake controller and run an Anderson plug for my new (to me) RRS?
Cheers TIA Andrew
Closing out my own question Stirling Auto Electrical (Albion soon to move to Geebung) did a good job last week fitting it without any problem.

[ozequestrian]

I've just installed a Prodigy on a MY18 that was fitted with the factory tow pack. The 3035 cable works as is so no need to change any of the wiring. I have a few extra cables as shipping was going to cost as much for one as for a few so if anyone is after one please PM me. Interestingly an auto electrician was going to charge me $750 to install the brake controller. All up this took about 45 minutes to do so dead easy if you have basic skills given it's just plug an play.

[ozequestrian]

Hi, I still have some 3035 harnesses. I don't log on here often so my apologies to those that PM'd a while ago. Please drop me a note at ozequestrian@gmail.com if you are after one.

[Nessie]

I recently had fitted the Redarc Elite Pro to my Rangie, and I used this info above as a start point. Fortunately my son is an Auto-Elec and ECU expert, so I get exceptional 'Mates Rates'.
There are a couple of things to note about this installation.
Note that my RR has the factory 3.5 tonne hitch.
Firstly, although the factory wiring and fusing in the RR is fine for this, the grey connector that is behind the dash on the end of this wiring is very mediocre.
Given that the brake controller can provide quite a high current on full braking application the prongs in this plug could be considered quite dangerous, as they would be incapable of any sustained use at these levels.
It is rumoured that this may be the cause of some RRs burning to the ground with horse floats or largish vans on the back.
It's a simple safety exercise to bypass these plugs altogether and hard wire by soldering correctly.
Secondly, if you want to avoid drilling holes in your dashboard the control knob for the Elite Pro can be installed in the small panel by your right knee beside the boot release.
It does take a little more work to remove some of the plastic structure behind the panel, but well worth it.
If you do this you will notice that all these panels and bits are stamped with the Jaguar logo on the back. Cost sharing at it's best.
The braking system works perfectly with no other modifications or additional wiring.
Cheers

[Bails]

I am considering a caravan,at this time in my life. Used to have a van 15 years ago , wondering what size van I can look at with my SDV8? I am thinking around the 20 foot mark with all the solutions required for a couple of our age, shower and loo. Wondering if other that have a van can give me some insight?

[Nessie]

I am considering a caravan,at this time in my life. Used to have a van 15 years ago , wondering what size van I can look at with my SDV8? I am thinking around the 20 foot mark with all the solutions required for a couple of our age, shower and loo. Wondering if other that have a van can give me some insight?

Hi Bails. If you have the appropriate tow bar etc. you should be able to legally tow up to 3.5 tonnes, with a tow ball load of up to 350 Kg. Note that the RR is not to use weight distribution hitches.
I tow a Swan Outback, but that is only about 1500 Kg loaded up. The van you are looking at would easily top out over 2000Kg.

[Gregz]

Also remember, the longer the van the more difficult it will be to get through obstacles like ditches, so I would advise going for the shortest that will do you for comfort.... assuming you may wish to go to some out-of-the-way places. We had a Jayco Expanda pop-top Outback for a while ( body length 5m) with single axle. That had a shower and toilet, and was ample size. If you have lots of $ you can go for something like a Track T4 Rhapsody - you wont even have to get extension mirrors, and easier to keep in lane than the other slightly wider vans out there. The vans of this size are around the 2t mark, you wont even notice they are there from engine performance point of view. My car is the SDV6, I just put it in cruise control at 110kph (in NSW - I think other states have different speed limits for vans?) and let the car do its thing.... yours will romp it in even easier. With the redarc tow-pro elite (and I imagine others similarly), the adjustment is very straight forward and easy to get right.
Might I also suggest to also invest in a level action jockey wheel (around $180) for adjusting the position of the van without the car attached.... much easier than trying to shove the van around with the original jockey wheel.

[Bails]

Hi Bails. If you have the appropriate tow bar etc. you should be able to legally tow up to 3.5 tonnes, with a tow ball load of up to 350 Kg. Note that the RR is not to use weight distribution hitches.
I tow a Swan Outback, but that is only about 1500 Kg loaded up. The van you are looking at would easily top out over 2000Kg.

Interesting the swan was my van years ago. I have factory fitted tow bar which looks very much like Haymen Reese . Thanks for the info still at the research side of things.

[Gregz]

level action jockey wheel .

oops typo , that of course should have been lever action jockey wheel.

[Bails]

It seems I will need a brake controller but don:t want to DIY. Is there a Local Firm near Sydney that is experienced in fitting these to a RRS

[Bails]

Elecbrakes - Bluetooth Electric Brake Controller | elecbrakes (https://www.elecbrakes.com/product/brake-controller-remote-plug-play-adapter-bundle/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIl-Xfw8Pq5QIVmyQrCh2ZRwjPEAQYBSABEgL50PD_BwE)

anyone used this controller?

[Bails]

I have decided to to go the Redac route.

[topunit]

I've just installed a Prodigy on a MY18 that was fitted with the factory tow pack. The 3035 cable works as is so no need to change any of the wiring. I have a few extra cables as shipping was going to cost as much for one as for a few so if anyone is after one please PM me. Interestingly an auto electrician was going to charge me $750 to install the brake controller. All up this took about 45 minutes to do so dead easy if you have basic skills given it's just plug an play.

I can confirm that there is no need to rearrange the pins on MY20 either.
I used the Tekonsha 3035-P cable to install a Tekonsha P3 and all I had to do was plug it in.
It appears that the vehicle wiring was different on the OPs earlier model L494.

Ive attached a photo of my install which shows the blue wire on the vehicle going to the bottom right of the connector (when viewed with the keying up)
In the OPs post it shows the vehicle blue wire going to the top right of the connector so clearly there has been a change.

[Bails]

I can confirm that there is no need to rearrange the pins on MY20 either.
I used the Tekonsha 3035-P cable to install a Tekonsha P3 and all I had to do was plug it in.
It appears that the vehicle wiring was different on the OPs earlier model L494.

Ive attached a photo of my install which shows the blue wire on the vehicle going to the bottom right of the connector (when viewed with the keying up)
In the OPs post it shows the vehicle blue wire going to the top right of the connector so clearly there has been a change.

What year is yours, the info is missing from your profile?

[Bails]

I worked out the year model from the post , what I wold like to know is where others are mounting the button or interface, I would like not to drill holes if possible.

[Nessie]

I worked out the year model from the post , what I wold like to know is where others are mounting the button or interface, I would like not to drill holes if possible.

I put mine in the centre of the panel that has the tailgate release in it. It pops out. This way it is easy to adjust, and the led doesn’t bother you at night.
You will need to cut away some of the plastic architecture behind the panel, but none of it is structural.

[Gregz]

I worked out the year model from the post , what I wold like to know is where others are mounting the button or interface, I would like not to drill holes if possible.

Land rover owned mine when the Redarc was installed, they put the knob on the lhs of the steering column. easy to access while driving if required.

[Bails]

Land rover owned mine when the Redarc was installed, they put the knob on the lhs of the steering column. easy to access while driving if required.

Thanks I will look at this sounds like a good idea. Waiting on the connector ATM but should be ready to go in a couple of weeks.

[Bails]

Great info and now I join the ranks of a brake controller installed RRS. Thanks to the board I was able to pick the steering column as the place to mount the controller and am well pleased.

[Disco Stue]

I can confirm that there is no need to rearrange the pins on MY20 either.
I used the Tekonsha 3035-P cable to install a Tekonsha P3 and all I had to do was plug it in.
It appears that the vehicle wiring was different on the OPs earlier model L494.

Ive attached a photo of my install which shows the blue wire on the vehicle going to the bottom right of the connector (when viewed with the keying up)
In the OPs post it shows the vehicle blue wire going to the top right of the connector so clearly there has been a change.


Hi Topunit,

Where did you end up mounting your Tekonsha P3? I am about to do the same and dont know where to put it.

[DarrylP]

Thanks for this post with all the images, drawings and information. I have an MY17 LD5 SD4 - I purchased the Tekonsha 3035-P from Amazon for $16AUD and got it fast freighted for $17AUD - it arrived in less than a week! Job done in no time.
Just an update - I did not need to adjust the wiring in the 3035-P plug - it was already correct for the socket under the dash.[biggrin]

I've not calibrated it yet - but everything appears to be working well and configuration was correct on a multimeter.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Thanks Daryl, got an Elite pro installed the other week and that loom wouldn't work, different plug under dash, also the car found the ( led) van straitaway, this is on a my16.5

[VitaminC88]

Great info and now I join the ranks of a brake controller installed RRS. Thanks to the board I was able to pick the steering column as the place to mount the controller and am well pleased.

this looks great! Do you have any suggestions on how to remove the steering shroud?

[Tote]

I've just followed the instructions to fit a redarc unit tonight. Redarc do a cable for their controller as well as the Tekonsha one mentioned but you still have to swap the wires around (sigh).

187479

I decided the best way to fit the control knob was a bent piece of aluminium strap nicely polished and mounted against the centre console. No holes to drill and can be removed if I ever feel like it, the control unit was mounted in a similar position to where others have done it.

187480

Sorry about the out of focus picture but you get the idea....


Regards,
Tote

[Matteo]

I've just followed the instructions to fit a redarc unit tonight. Redarc do a cable for their controller as well as the Tekonsha one mentioned but you still have to swap the wires around (sigh).

187479

I decided the best way to fit the control knob was a bent piece of aluminium strap nicely polished and mounted against the centre console. No holes to drill and can be removed if I ever feel like it, the control unit was mounted in a similar position to where others have done it.

187480

Sorry about the out of focus picture but you get the idea....


Regards,
Tote

Just finished the install on a 2016 SDV6.
The Tekonsha 3035-P adapter still fits perfectly, but I used the brakes (https://landycars.com/collections/parts_brakes) which saved me from splicing any wires.
Everything worked straight away, only had to adjust calibration on the controller knob.