LANDY'S LAST RESTORATION BY ME [Archive] - Australian Land Rover Owners

1950landy

28th September 2016, 09:44 AM

I have owned Landy since September 1990 & over a 3year period carried out a full restoration , including extensive rust repairs to the chassis having it back on the road in 1990.
Back then there was no AULRO to ask for help & not many restoration books on S1 Land Rover's . I was told to contact Anthony Maeder who was in Melbourne at the time which I did & received a very helpful back from him ( I still get that letter out some times to read it) I also joined the Rover Car Club Qld.
Over the last 29 years I have realised there are things I did not do correct that needs correcting & I have not had to carry out any major repair work.

In the last 6 months I have started to have a few electrical issues , a couple of oil leaks around the gear box & I know the brakes will need going through ( I think after 26 years the cylinders will need re kitting ) there is also an oil leak into the L/H rear brake drum. The paint is starting to get a lot of chips & is starting to look like camouflage.

Every time I read Dinty's restoration I think I have to do some thing with Landy before I can't do it. ( I blame Dinty for this :p ) ( Don't really blame him but his restoration sure helped to make my decision )

1950landy

28th September 2016, 10:00 AM

My first job yesterday was to tidy the garage & give the floor a good wash :(

Todays job is to start pulling off panels & put Landy on stands.

1950landy

28th September 2016, 12:42 PM

Well I spent about 3hr working on the old girl, removed front guards ,radiator & front panel & front brake drums. I didn't use any never seize on any of the bolts last time thinking I wouldn't be pulling her down again , that was my first mistake last time & I have a mixture of BS & metric bolts so have to keep changing spanners. :mad:

There is no play in any of the swivel pins, on oil leaks at the ball hubs , tie rods but they will new boots. Shackle bushes still look good . I am surprised there are no leaks at the wheel cylinders so I will strip them & check the sleeves & fit new kits, the linings are hardly worn & drums look OK. :o

1950landy

28th September 2016, 12:55 PM

The vehicle details are
1950 LAND ROVER
Chassis No 0610 3789
Eng No 06104131
Gear Box No 0610 4144
F /Diff No 5259R759/10.414
R /Diff No 745311/56

The wheels, radiator & all the electrical are date stamped 10/49

Dinty

28th September 2016, 04:24 PM

I had nuffin to do with anything LOL, your little truck is 4 months (near enough) younger than me, I do wish now I had looked around 35 years ago for a 7/49 80" cheers Dennis
ps Looking forward to seeing the progress,,.

123rover50

28th September 2016, 04:38 PM

Good onya Wayne.
Gotta keep busy:D

Keith

russellrovers

28th September 2016, 06:47 PM

1950landy

28th September 2016, 09:56 PM

Thanks Jim, I will wait untill I have a list & order from UK

1950landy

28th September 2016, 10:03 PM

1950landy

28th September 2016, 10:16 PM

Hi Dennis,
Landy is very close to thr same age as me, I was born 25 / 1 / 1950 . I dont think it will ever be as good as one of your restorations . I am quite supprised from what I have seen so far that there hasnt been too much wrong so far . As Keith said I need to keep dooing things, the BMW I bought to replace the MGBGT doesnt need any major work & your restoration has inspired me to do Landy correct.

1950landy

30th September 2016, 01:10 PM

I spent the morning at Qld Raceway with the Jaguar drivers Club track day. here are a few of the cars there . :)

Now it is back to work on the S1 :o

Dinty

30th September 2016, 02:14 PM

Yes, Wayne, get back to work LOL, love the Mk1 Morris Cooper 'S' had one way back in the late 60's, I couldn't get in or out of one these days though, cheers Dennis :)

1950landy

1st October 2016, 06:33 AM

OK , OK Dennis , this afternoon was quite productive , I jacked up the rear of the vehicle & removed the brake drums to find booth side oil seals leaking but wheel cylinders OK.

Then I removed the pinch bolt at the bottom of the steering column so I could remove the steering wheel centre with dip switch & horn button. I gave the bottom of the brass tube a spray with CRC then genteelly pulled up on the top while twisting it so I wouldn't brake the centre. I found I needed to open the back of the tilt to give me enough room to pull the tube all the way out of the column. ( I need to clean the horn contact) I now removed the steering wheel after removing the pinch bolt. ( it also needs some repairs )

1950landy

1st October 2016, 07:18 AM

Once the steering wheel was out of the way I removed the floor & gear box tunnel to reveal quite a clean gear box , looks like selector shaft seals are leaking or grease I have packed around the bottom of the gear stick has melted when running the PTO to drive a water pump for a display at car shows.
My mate in Tasmania is dismantling his 88" S1 at the moment ( he started a week before me) so we are going head to head sending each other photo's of our progress. he is ahead of me at the moment but I think I will soon catch as he has major chassis repairs to do & his is the fires strip down since it left the factory .
That's as far as I got today it is my grand sons birthday today & they have just turned up. Not too bad for a couple of hours work.;)
I will have to start reading through Dennis's restoration to see how he did a few things like repairing the steering wheel. :) Hope to get fire wall striped today so I can get one of the son in-laws to give me a hand to lift it off over the weekend.

1950landy

1st October 2016, 07:25 AM

In the last photo of the top of the steering column the indicator switch is missing the green plastic light cover , I''ve been looking for one for 26 years , if any body has one I would be interested in buying it. I want to keep this switch as it is self cancelling , the new ones you buy now are not.

chazza

2nd October 2016, 08:35 AM

...the indicator switch is missing the green plastic light cover , I''ve been looking for one for 26 years ...

If you can find some acrylic round bar - I know it is available in clear - it can be turned, drilled, polished and threaded on a lathe. You can buy translucent coloured varnish if you can't buy coloured bar,

Cheers Charlie

1950landy

2nd October 2016, 08:52 AM

There is a guy at the markets who sells it in clear or colour . Trouble is since I retired I don't have access to a lathe . I thought about buying one of the new ones & taking it off it.

1950landy

2nd October 2016, 10:05 AM

Saturday morning I removed anything from the firewall that would stop me from lifting it off the chassis . I just have to wait for somebody to give me a lift . You will see I have only cut all the wiring as I have ordered a new harness from Vintage Wiring Harness, should be here in a couple of weeks , ordered it with the extra wires for indicators. The last time I made my own , I wouldn't do that again . I was going to get one from UK , but after 6 email's trying to get a freight cost I give up.
The next job will be to remove the rear tub & seat box. :eek:

1950landy

2nd October 2016, 10:21 AM

BUGGER ! I forgot to click the upload button for the photo's. :mad::censored:
No work on LR today , wife has been vomiting all night , must have caught some sort of bug off somebody :wasntme:
It's a holiday tomorrow & son in-law wants a lift with the trailer he is repairing the rust in so should be able to get him to help me lift firewall off.

1950landy

3rd October 2016, 11:29 AM

The firewall has now been removed , now I only have to remove the rear tub .
I can give every thing a proper clean & inspection .

1950landy

3rd October 2016, 03:01 PM

I spent a couple of hours unbolting the tub this afternoon. Managed to move it back by my self but a bit heavy & don't want to damage it.
I'll clean out my 1950 wooden box trailer that I use to cart my water pump & fence panels to car shows when I am running the pump so I can store the tub on top of the trailer . It will also make it easer to move the tub around when I want to work on it. I'll get my son in-law to call in on way home from work to give me a lift.

I found the reason I kept blowing stop light fuses , the trailer plug wire had come out of its clip on the chassis & the PTO prop shaft had rubbed through two layers of insulation the last time I used the pump.:(

I may also have found the noise that developed near the front of the transfer case on the way back from All British Day. I think the front prop shaft splines have worn to the extent they are now slipping while I am driving. My gear box is a constant FWD box. If I can't find a good 2nd hand one I will have to get this one re built.:(

Northern Lander

3rd October 2016, 05:52 PM

Hi Wayne,

The strip down is coming along quickly, fingers crossed there isn't to many surprises, as we all know there can be.
For your indicator I might have the part you are looking for however I wont be able to confirm until Christmas time, seeing as all my land rover stuff is not in the same state as me anymore.
Look forward to catching up at Christmas........you will be starting to put it back together by then.

Brendan

1950landy

3rd October 2016, 10:13 PM

Thanks Brendan, I can wait untill then, ive been looking 29years now for it. Should be starting repairs before end of week. , starting with axel seals & brakes.

1950landy

14th October 2016, 01:11 PM

This morning I picked the radiator up from the radiator works after getting a new filler neck fitted . The old one the over flow pipe was missing. :o

Then I spent the rest of the morning degreasing & water blasting the chassis , gear box , diff's & motor. My water blaster has good pressure , it took some of the paint off. :mad:

Next I am going to remove the gear box & motor to check the clutch,( the pressure plate is the original as far as I can tell) :o

While the box is out I will weld the gear box X member in, last time I made it removable thinking I may have to pull the box out at some stage but it hasn't been necessary in the last 29 years so will put it back to original.

With the motor & gear box out I will be able to fix up the paint on the chassis & repaint the motor.

russellrovers

14th October 2016, 05:14 PM

123rover50

14th October 2016, 05:39 PM

Hi Keith,
Can you beleave its been almost 30 years since I bought Landy from you. I remember when Meryll & I drove down your street & she saw the L/R sitting in your drive way she said LETS NOT STOP & I said its looks better than I expected.

Was this it?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/485.jpg (http://s939.photobucket.com/user/123rover50/media/Forward%20Control/80onFC001.jpg.html)

K

1950landy

14th October 2016, 10:26 PM

Do not think so, did not have a roof or bows , no indicator lights on front guards & exhaust came out R/H side. That one looks in too good condition. I think it also had a broken spring & had a bit of a lean.
Wayne

123rover50

15th October 2016, 05:53 AM

I am getting old, I have no idea what happened to that one then:(
K

1950landy

15th October 2016, 06:22 AM

I am getting old, I have no idea what happened to that one then:(
K

I hope I can remember how Landy goese back together. Lucky I have lots of books now. :confused:

1950landy

4th November 2016, 05:43 PM

I've been away on holidays for a couple of weeks , Whale watching at Harvey Bay & feeding the Dolphins at tin can bay.
Now time to get some thing done on Landy. :banana:
I unbolted the gear box this morning & tried to pull the box out by my self , that was my 1st mistake , :o gear box ended up falling backwards & jamming in the chassis. So off to the workshop to PU the engine crane. ( should be doing this rebuild at the workshop but with the Mk7 Jag & BMW 2002 race cars & the car trailer there is no room for another restoration at the moment.):(
I unbolted the clutch to check it & all looks OK :) so will clean it up before refitting the box. ( this clutch was in Landy when bought her some 30 years ago , I had it tested last time & doesn't look any different)

Tomorrow's job is to remove all the accessories from the motor & repaint it.

Dinty

5th November 2016, 07:32 AM

Land Rover transmission is a bit rear end heavy LOL that has happened to me only once, cheers Dennis:)

1950landy

5th November 2016, 08:58 AM

I was being lazy , knew I should have gone & picked up the engine crane before I started .:(

1950landy

16th November 2016, 02:41 PM

I managed to get about 3hr's work on Landy today before my wife came home & parked her car in garage in front of landy. That was the painting for the day. :mad:
I top coated the chassis in Deep Bronze Green , my small touch up gun worked a treat getting into tight spaces & not getting too much over spray on anything.
This gun will do a spot as big as a 5 cent piece. :o I also removed the oil filter , starter motor, distributer , tappet covers so I could paint the motor.
I know , I know I got overspray on the timing cover but I intender to pull the cover off & sand blast it to remove the rust stain from when the water pump leaked a few years ago.
I have picked up a cold the last few days & not feeling too bright so I have called it a day . :(
I am waiting for my new wiring harness to arrive , I was told 6 weeks & it's been 8 weeks now :mad: Sent them an email this morning to see what the hold up is .

Dinty

16th November 2016, 06:38 PM

I thought it about time you surfaced LOL but now your going to take a nose dive with your illness, anyway mate keep plugging at it, here's hoping your symptoms clear up soon, cheers mate Dennis :)

1950landy

16th November 2016, 10:09 PM

Looking after twins tomorrow & willbe picking up some seals for gearbox & transfer case friday morning . Should get all the black bits painted on motor also.. Also I had some new selector shaft seals that I put some were safe so I would not loose them, guess what I can not find them. Probely will have to buy some more.:mad: I will probely find them after I buy the new ones ,it is a bugger getting old.

1950landy

18th November 2016, 04:13 PM

All my plans went out the window this morning , on my way to PU the seals I had a call from my brother who is ment to be racing in historic racing this weekend. The Jag will not run it was running fine yesterday. :confused: I PU the seals & went to the workshop. By the time I got there he had checked it had fuel . He said he had replaced the points & condenser last week . I checked the points & found them burnt & crusty. We pulled out the distributer & replaced the points & condenser again & refitted the distributer. Still no go. :confused: I noticed he had a different coil on the car & asked what voltage it was but it had no markings on it ( he replaced the old coil because it was getting very hot) . I grabed the old coil & pluged in the wires & sat it on top of the motor. Now try that, she sprung into life. :D the new coil he had fitted last week was faulty ( it was one he had in his parts) . So off to parts supplier for a new coil, load the car on trailer & off to Morgan Park.
With that gone I went home ready to do some sand blasting , bugger the sand got wet during the last storm & would not go through the gun :mad: so off to Hare Forbs to buy a new bag of sand ( luck at last they had a sale on) :BigThumb: I just get home & all ready to do some work & grand sons turn up for a swim, so packed up for the day,
Well tomorrow is another day with a bit of luck I will get something done.

1950landy

18th November 2016, 05:29 PM

Brother just rang to say he did some practice at track , Jag is pulling 6000RPM no problem , at least day was not a complete waist. :banana:

1950landy

19th November 2016, 04:52 PM

Spent afternoon removing the brake shoes , pulled pistons out of wheel cylinders & removing M/Cyl. All the cylinders checked out OK & will only require kits. :D
Then I moved on to the rear axles, undid the brake pipes & all the dolts through the backing plate but do you think I can get the axles to come out. Did the normal mechanics method of bolting the wheel back on & floging the xxxx out of it with a big hammer, not even a mm. Almost knocked the chassis off the stands. Do not remember them being this hard last time.
I do not want to put heat on it , the bearings are OK , just wast to replace the seals & check the drain hole is not blocked.
I am thinling may be a plate across the axel flange & 2 bottle jacks back to the chassis. What do you think Dennis / Keith.

123rover50

20th November 2016, 06:01 AM

Worth a try:)
I have never had that problem with any of mine(touch wood)
You will work it out;)
Twisted splines , do you think?

Keith

1950landy

20th November 2016, 07:35 AM

I don't think so , wouldn't be enough power . I was looking at the parts book last might I think I put gasket cement on the bearing hub last time , I think the hub has just welded it's self to diff flange.. I have a axle assembly out of a P3 I will have a look at it today after I mow & trim some trees that have become a bit of a nuisance. Probably at ground level. They keep filling up the garage with leaves.
Well wish me luck May try jacking one side of wheel & hitting other side with bigger hammer.
Wayne

1950landy

20th November 2016, 11:30 AM

First job was to spray hubs with CRC.
2nd job cut the trees down while the CRC soaked in.
3rd job get the axles out.
You were right again Keith I did work it out. Once I had a look at the P3 axel assembly , could see what to do.
1st remove wheels .
2nd get a large sledge hammer . I could see the bearing hub was about 1.5 mm larger than the diff housing flange., so all that was required was a sharp hit in the edge3 of the flange of the bearing housing.
3rd Out they come.:banana::banana::banana::banana:

Dinty

21st November 2016, 06:59 AM

I have just read the last couple of posts Wayne and I can see that you have got one of them out, to be honest I have not had the displeasure of playing with that type of axle assembly, my 1st Series 1 had fully floating rear end (S1 type) I'm looking around ATM for a S2 88" rear diff/housing just in case LOL anyway I hope the other side comes off without too much trouble, cheers Dennis :)

1950landy

21st November 2016, 04:23 PM

Thanks Dennis ,
They booth came out once I worked out what to do. I had used Permantex ( this is probably spelt wrong) on it last time & you know what it is like when you try to pull 2 sheets of wet glass apart , if you can slide them side ways they will let go . The flange on the diff is recessed into the bearing hub so you can't knock it sideways .
Pulled M/Cyl & wheel cyl's apart today they only need kits, rear linings & hand brake linings socked in gear oil ( H/B linings were original 66 years old , need mask & gloves it handle them :o) Also need rear flexible hose & 2 rear brake pipes ( fittings were seized on pipes) :mad:
I found some new rear axel seals in the parts I got off Kev Baker. :D

I am glad I don't have to replace the bearings I remember last time it was a pig of a job .

1950landy

23rd November 2016, 03:30 PM

I got a bit more done today.

1st I pulled the PTO out the back of the box to check the out put shaft nut was tight & it was :D . I've had three 80"'s now & all three the nut was loose.

2nd job was to go & collect the brake parts & shoes I had relined then cleaned up & painted the hand brake backing plate & drum. I also replaced the 5/16 BSF bolts that hold the drum on. Once the paint had dried I bolted the backing plate on & fitted the new shouse & refitted the drum. ( I forgot to take any photo's of this bit):mad:

3rd job was to remove all the bits that needed painting black & cleaned & re painted them. The Gear Box is now ready to go back in.

4th job was to clean up the Master Cylinder & fit the new kit I had PU in the morning . After assembly I gave it a coat of black .

1950landy

23rd November 2016, 03:37 PM

OPP'S I forgot to click on the upload button. :o Here are the photo's. For those who noticed the shim washer that goes under the large cup. I did put the shim washer in , I had it soaking in metho when I took the photo. I will fit the new dust boot when the paint is dry.

1950landy

23rd November 2016, 03:55 PM

I also pulled the top off the box & removed the selector shafts to replace the seals.
Also last year I was having trouble with my starter locking up & a bought a good S/H starter & fitted it thinking my old one needed over hauling.
I got it out today to have a look at it & found the pin through the nut on the end of the shaft had come out so when I pressed the solenoid button the nut would wind off the thread & push the armature back locking it up. I tightened the nut & fitted a roll pin , cleaned up & painted my original starter today.
Now I will be able to fit my original starter with correct date stamping 10/49 :D

1950landy

23rd November 2016, 04:04 PM

BUGGER , did it again , here are the photo's:D

1950landy

25th November 2016, 03:01 PM

I have a question .
Has any none ever bought one of these steering column to bulkhead grommets & fitted it, if so how did you go about fitting it? :confused: The rubber is very stiff & the top of the column is about twice as big as the hole in the grommet. I have a couple of friends that have bought them but could not get the rubber to stretch over the top of the column. They ended up cutting the grommet & were going to super glue it back together but found that the hole is also smaller than the shaft so there is about 5mm gap in the ends of the rubber.:mad:
I am not sure wether to order one or just leave it with the gap between the bulkhead & column as I have done for the last 27 years.:confused:

chazza

26th November 2016, 12:14 PM

Nothing like rubber parts that don't fit, or disintegrate in a dark workshop :mad:

What about making a leather one?

Cheers Charlie

1950landy

26th November 2016, 02:32 PM

:idea:I may have to make up a tappered sleve & lube it with detergent & try to slide it down over the large part of the column. Not sure if the rubber will stretch that far.

Northern Lander

28th November 2016, 11:55 PM

Hi Wayne,
If you check on the LRSOC forum for a restoration thread done by Richard in NZ aka Bulletproof of his 49 he shows how he put the steering column grommet on.
Hope this helps

Wardy

Here is the link, its half way down the page just add www to the front as it wouldn't let me add the full link

.lrsoc.com/forum/index.php'topic=5146.400

123rover50

29th November 2016, 06:01 AM

:idea:I may have to make up a tappered sleve & lube it with detergent & try to slide it down over the large part of the column. Not sure if the rubber will stretch that far.

Thats what most do. Some pre stretch it for a bit as well.
Dont forget to put it on the column before fitting it to the bulkhead as it goes on the engine side.
Keith

1950landy

30th November 2016, 05:11 PM

I got a few more jobs done today after doing a few jobs for my wife. They always have some thing to do when it is L/R time.:mad:
I found two reasons the rear axel seals leaked , 1st the diff breathers , the mud wasps had filled them up with mud, 2nd & main reason I put the seals in back to front last time. :wasntme: YES IT WAS. I fitted them to stop the oil leaking from the diff instead of to stop the grease leaking out of the hubs. :o

I took the brake drums & some other bits to the sand blaster this morning , then after lunch I gave them a coat of etch primer & when that was dry black .
I also fitted the start motor & spin on oil filter & adaptor , booth these jobs are not easy with the body off but are almost impossible with it on.

It's no wonder L/R's have oil leaks in the gear box. these rubber seals on the detent springs have a hole through the middle & there is a little metal L bracket that holds them in . I don't know what stops the oil from passing through the spring , I suppose there is not that much oil that gets up there . I will see what happens when I get it back on the road, I may have to fill one end up with silicon .

1950landy

30th November 2016, 05:26 PM

A few more photo's from today. I also bolted the brake master cylinder back in position on the chassis.:D

1950landy

30th November 2016, 05:40 PM

By pass filter adaptor & spin on filter ready to go back on. Bolted back in position on the car . There is not much room for changing the original filter , no wonder so many of these early had the filters removed & left off. I have always had to unbolt the engine mounts & leaver the motor across to the drivers side to change the original filters, not a pleasant job at all.:o

At about this time a very large storm came through & my daughter rang to ask me to PU her boys from school. She doesn't like driving in the rain & better Grand dad gets wet & hail damaged car than her. :mad:

No Land Rover work tomorrow , wife & I look after out twin grand daughters Thursday's . so may be Friday .

klonk

2nd December 2016, 12:39 AM

1950landy

2nd December 2016, 04:05 PM

Hi Wayne,

I don't like to be the bearer of bad news but You had the axel seals fitted the correct way the first time. The seal is ment to keep the oil in the diff housing.
The bearing is greased and the diff oil shouldn't be allowed to mix with it. The bearings ,depending on what you have been sold, may have just a tin shield or maybe just a dust seal which won't hold oil , so the lip on the seal should face toward the diff housing.

Sorry Steve

Hi Steve,
:BigThumb: You are correct , :BigThumb: when I was putting the seals in my S1 W/S manual was up at out workshop so I hade a look in a Rover Cyclops manual which has the same rear axel set up & it looked very much like it went in the other way. I had a look in my L/R book today & the drawing is a lot clearer. So thanks for that I ma sure I have 2 more axel seals in my box of Rover seals, I know there is 1 more & I hope 2.

PLEASE NOTE KLONK IS CORRECT & I HAVE PUT THE SEALS IN INCORRECT.

1950landy

5th December 2016, 06:09 PM

This afternoon I reassembled the front brakes , replacing the wheel cylinder cups & boots. Then fitted the front drums I painted the other day.
I also refitted the drag links after fitting new tie rod end boots .
I tightened all the bolts & fittings on my oil filter adaptor & refitted the exhaust manifold after sand blasting & painting with silver exhaust paint.
By this time it was getting too hot to work in the garage so knocked off . May be more tomorrow, I hope.

1950landy

27th December 2016, 08:40 AM

It's been a wile since I last worked no Landy. what with looking after twin grand daughters & wife wanting things done before Christmas. :mad:
I must have been a good boy during the year here is what Santa bought me.
The taps & dies are BSF , I already had Metric , SAE & Whitworth . Hope to get some more done when things get back to normal after New Year. I have ordered a few parts from the UK that I think have gone into that black hole called Aust Post never to be seen again, :censored: as they were sent over 1 month ago & still no sign of them. :mad: The sender has said that he will replace them at his cost so I have told him I will give it another week after Christmas to see if they turn up , if not he can replace them.

Does any one know what this grommet in the last 2 photo's fits ? I found 3 of them in my Rover & Land Rover parts . I was thinking that may be a grommet for the steering column to bulk head on a late S1 or S2 , the hole looks the right size & the grove in the rubber looks the rite size for the hole in the bulk head :confused:

1950landy

27th December 2016, 03:03 PM

1950landy

5th January 2017, 08:38 AM

Now Christmas /New Year is over it is time for some LR therapy .:D
My seats arrived from the UK yesterday , a quick inspection to check condition & that it was all there . 1 X bulk head to screen seal, 3 X backs ,3 X seats, 6 X seat locators & 2 X seat box lid straps. Now to put them in a safe place until I need them.
I also got a chance to strip the bulk head, just need to remove the accelerator peddle.
I also went to put the rear brakes together but when I tried to fit the new pipes I had made up before Christmas one was still loose after tightening the nut . What I found the thread in the cylinder didn't go all the way to the seat & the new would not tighten against the flange . On the other cylinder the pipe would tighten but the seat in the cylinder has cracks in it so it may not seal. :mad: I have ordered new cylinders which I hope to get this week.

1950landy

5th January 2017, 03:57 PM

Well got a bit more done today before running out of parts.
1st the brake Co rang to tell me my wheel cylinders were there :D when I got there to pick them up they were for a 86" & NOT EARLY 80". :mad: I had taken the samples with me a couple of days ago when I ordered them. Then they tell me they can not find a listing & will need to change to 86" braking system & make up another set of pipes at my expense. :mad:
I got them to fit one of the old nuts on one of the new pipes to match my old wheel cylinder & I am going to take a chance that the other side doesn't leak, (I HOPE) it has sealed for the last 29 years since I did them last & with a new flange to compress it may not leak.
2nd I have assembled the N/S rear brake . The O/S the ball bearing under the bleeder is stuck in its seat so have left it soaking with some CRC over night & will assemble the wheel cylinder tomorrow & hold it in the vice so the pistons don't pop out & try to blow it out with compresses air.
3rd job today was to fit my new brake jam can , sand blast & paint the clamp.
I had to get a new pipe made up for it as the fitting in the bottom was the wrong size even though it was advertised as fitting LR 1948 to 50.
4th job today was to replace the worn exhaust flange studs , heated the manifold up glowing red & yep broke all four, so off with the manifold to take to the workshop tomorrow & set it up level in the drill press.
I have knocked off for the day as I have run out of parts . Well I have not run out of parts only the ones I need to complete the chassis & brakes .

1950landy

5th January 2017, 04:03 PM

This one didn't load up before so here it is now.

series1buff

5th January 2017, 06:06 PM

1950landy

5th January 2017, 10:38 PM

Hi those seats are pretty nice :)

A friend of mine bought a set of those seats from Exmoor some years ago. The first hot Aussie Summer day after they were fitted , the glue Exmoor had used in the seats came unstuck :mad:

The wheel cylinders: those early type with the ball bearing seals are a absolute pain , the bleed screw in them is a BSF thread . Very hard to find these days. You could make new BSF bleed screws on a lathe .

You can buy adapters and use the later series 1/2 cylinders... easy and cheap to buy . The adapters screw into the later cylinders and mate up with the early 1/4" diam. 80" pipes

I will see how the seats go , I know a couple of people who have used Exmores seats & havnt had a problem my old ones the Willy Wagtails that were nesting in my garage made holes in them collecting meterial to build there nest
I have some BSF tapered seat bleaders so they shouldnt be a problem once I get the ball out .
I did think about adaptors but after being back to the brake co 4 times this week I wasnt thinking straight.

Dinty

8th January 2017, 08:00 AM

I have Exmoor seats in my S2A 88" GS 113-372, they have been in since 2011 and we have some very hot weather here where I live, no issues with the glue coming unstuck, also my S1 has Exmoor trim no issues so far cheers Dennis

1950landy

14th January 2017, 09:10 AM

I have run into a bit of a problem with the rear wheel cylinders on Landy, one of the ball bearings under the bleeder nipple is stuck in its seat , :mad: I have tried air , soaking it in penetrating oil , pushing it out with a stiff wire from in side the cylinder , freeze off & thumping it on a solid bit of wood but it is still stuck . I don't want to heat as it has a SS sleeve . We are going to try ultrasonics this week end . If that doesn't work I will need to buy a new ones. Does any one know were I can buy rear wheel cylinders to suit a early 80" with 1/4" pipes in Australia. I can find cylinders listed but the don't tell me what size pipes they take & the company's I have contacted have not come back to me.:mad: The brake co I deal with got me some in but they were for the small pipes so it all got too much & they said not available.
Any ideas on getting it out or were to buy would appreciated , even if I can get a S/H L/H one that I can re-sleeve would help.

series1buff

14th January 2017, 02:47 PM

Fill the cylinder with grease, push the pistons in each end, place the cylinder in a vice with the pistons against each face of the vice jaws.

Screw in a grease nipple into the threaded hole for the brake pipe . Use a grease gun and apply pressure and the ball should pop out .

Back in the 1970's I had a WW2 Jeep. I had the brake cylinders sleeved, they used a hard brass sleeve back in those days . Anyway, one day I was coming down a steep driveway and the brake pedal went to the floor !!! Quick steering had me drive the jeep into a stone wall . I found the leak, it was one of the sleeved cylinders - they had drilled too far into the sleeve for the bleed screw , almost right through the other side of the cylinder !!! It was a lucky escape !

1950landy

14th January 2017, 04:04 PM

1950landy

14th January 2017, 04:37 PM

:banana::banana::banana::banana::arms::arms:
Thanks for that, been a week trying to get that ball out, only took 5 min.I knew some body woud have the answer. That ball came out like a bullet I dont know were it went. I was going to try an old M/Cyl I had but as per usual when you are looking for some thing you cant find it. :D :cool:

1950landy

23rd January 2017, 04:14 PM

I got some time to do a bit more on Landy today.
!st job was to assemble the last of the brakes now that the ball bearing is out of the bleeder.
2nd job was to renew the wiring harness in the chassis. I attached a pull wire to the old harness at the rear of the chassis & another to the brake switch & fuel sender wires & pulled the old wires out from the front.
I cut some plastic tubing to fit over the end of the new harness & taped up all the loose wires then attached the pull wires & pulled the new harness through the chassis.
My next job was one I have avoiding , somebody had drilled out the hole in the clutch X shaft, I wanted to resize the hole. I found it had been enlarged from 1/4 " to just under 10mm. I cut about 40mm of 10mm round bar & put it in the freezer for a couple of hours , I also countersunk the hole opening & heated the end if the X shaft until it was glowing red then pressed the 10 mm bar into the hole. After it air cooled I found the centre of the plug & set the X shaft up in the drill press Level & the plug in line so the hole would be drilled at the correct angle to the leaver position .

1950landy

23rd January 2017, 04:27 PM

I had a new pipe connector on the X shaft in my parts collection to replace the old one with the O/S hole but when I remover I found that by enlarging the hole it had weakened the pipe & there was a crack at the end. Once I fitted the pipe to the throw-out bearing X shaft I fitted a new boot in the bell housing, I also replaced the boot on the back of the hand brake backing plate were the shaft comes through.

1950landy

23rd January 2017, 04:49 PM

I was now ready to refit the Gear box. I spent a bit of time looking for were I had put the clutch line up tool 29 years ago & cleaned up the pressure plate. I then rubbed chalk on the clutch linings so it won't weld it's self to the flywheel & pressure plate before I get Landy back on the road. Then refitted the clutch assembly. ( I also put some lube in the spigot bush)
Using the engine crane I lifted the Gear box into place .That's my bit for today, hope fully after taking my wife's car for service in the morning I will have some time in the afternoon to get the bulk head ready for painting, it should only be a matter of giving it a key sand & degrease . Last time I restored the car I galvanized the bulk head. That wasn't a good idea as the dash panel has double panels & it wasn't flat when it came back. :mad: many hours were spent getting it flat again. Off to have a shower now & sit in the A/C :D

TimNZ

23rd January 2017, 06:38 PM

I've not heard of putting chalk on the clutch linings, I may have to employ the idea on my 88". Thanks for the tip! :)

Cheers,

series1buff

23rd January 2017, 09:04 PM

1950landy

23rd January 2017, 10:25 PM

I've not heard of putting chalk on the clutch linings, I may have to employ the idea on my 88". Thanks for the tip! :)

Cheers,

The chalk tends to stop the moisture.

1950landy

23rd January 2017, 10:45 PM

When it comes to painting your panels , I can offer a trick

I use Wattyl Agricultural enamel , the colour is Deep Bronze Green from the British Standard Colour (BSC) chart .

The paint dries to a gloss as you would expect , trouble is, it shows up every little dimple and dent . To avoid this , I use a 400 grade wet & dry paper and give the glossy panels a good rub . The result is a nice patina , it is a matt finish , slightly chalky looking just like its been in the sun for 10 years .

The Wattyl Deep Bronze Green is not dark enough for a 1950 LR , it is more the colour of a 53 LR., I am usingPPG Ameron industrial enamel it will dry to a gloss & it drys very fast I can usually move the panels with in a couple of hours unlike the Wattyl . I also use a hardner in the paint I know the gloss will show all the blemishes but I prefer the gloss finish & it is a lot of work sanding & not taking the paint off the rivets on the bonnet.

1950landy

27th January 2017, 03:09 PM

Well it hasn't been a good day, my plan was to degrease & wash the bulk head with truck wash then give it a lite sand with fine wet & dry ready for painting.

Woke up this morning & it is raining , after doing all the little jobs my wife wanted done we get a phone call from wife's friend who has sold there house & settlement day is this afternoon. Can I do a dump run for her, so off to her house to load ute up with rubbish & go to the dump. 4hr later i get home, but it had stoped raining, so that was the morning gone. :(
My wife then returned home for lunch before going to hair dressers . Around 1.30 she left to go & have her hair done, thinking I would have a couple of hours before her return I got my saw horses out to set the bulkhead on it but my son in-law had borrowed them & broken the brace on one of them. :( by the time i fixed that it was poring rain so set up in garage were wife parks her car . I managed to degrease the bulk head ( there was a lot of grease around the gear box opening thrown up from the tail shaft ) & was half way through truck washing when my wife turned up so had to shift every thing out of the way. :mad: It looks like the rain has set in for the rest of the day so that's about it for today . I did also manage to run a BSF tap through all the caged nuts , I will do them again after painting to make sure there is no paint in the threads.

1950landy

30th January 2017, 05:43 PM

Today was spent getting the bulkhead & fittings ready for painting tomorrow
(I HOPE) if the humility is ok.
I also made up some caged nuts to attach the floor panel to the bulkhead. I will rivet them in place , the heads or the rivet's won't be seen once the floor is in place.

I have a question :confused: , does any one know what colour the hooked throttle was painted? I painted it black last time but was thinking that it wasn't painted at all or was silver . The only photo in my Original Land Rover Series 1 book has one photo of it & it does not look like it has any paint on the hook but the body looks like it is body colour.

1950landy

31st January 2017, 03:56 PM

The weather in Brisbane is hot with low humidity & not a cloud in the sky , A good day for painting.
1st up was the bulkhead, Instrument panel & fuel pump / regulator panel. I set it up on a couple of carpenters horses & mixed up my Deep Bronze Green enamel & added enamel hardener. Because I am spraying over the DBG enamel that I had sprayed 29 years ago I gave it one coat with out thinners. It was dry enough to handle with 1/4 of an hour so I moved it out into the sun for around 3 hr"s . while the bulk was drying in the sun I set up my small touch up gun with Black gloss enamel & set out the bolt on bits off the bulk head for painting, then moved them out into the sun to dry
I then bought the bits I had already painted DBG & gave them a coat of DBG with 50% thinners . Then as soon as it was dry enough to move I put it back out into the sun. I will give it a few days to dry properly before bolting all the parts I have painted black back on .
The mark on the instrument panel is not a bit that I have missed but a shadow, but I will need to paint it again as the paint is thin on the edges on the curved ends. also the other plate the surface that you can't see in the photo needs fixing as it is the side that is seen & it has a couple of touch marks.

1950landy

31st January 2017, 04:23 PM

Also today I started on the Hand Brake leaver & steering wheel. I mast up the chrome spokes on the wheel & the chrome button in the leaver & then sand blasted The S/W centre & H/B leaver.
I found a small crack in the baker-lite hand grip on the leaver & filled it with body filler. I don't know if the filler is too old or it is just too hot today but it was going off with in a minute of mixing it. :mad: I suspect it is too old , it must be at least 2 years since I bought it.
I then gave the leaver a coat of etch primer ready for when I am painting Black again.
The paint I had painted the steering wheel rim with 29 years ago had started to chip so I sanded the old paint off. There are a few cracks around were the spokes fit into the rim to repair.
I am off to Auto Shop to buy some new filler & I will have a go at repairing then tomorrow.

1950landy

1st February 2017, 04:46 PM

I had intentions to get lots done today so was up early & did a couple of jobs for my wife. Mixed up some paint in my small touch up gun to fix up a couple of things I stuffed up yesterday. Then the phone rang , it's the son-in law .( i've got today off & I found a Cubbyhouse on gum tree & I have got it home & I can't get it into the back yard.) :mad::mad::mad: I think we need to pull it apart then reassemble once it is in position . I went over & had a look & decided if we lifted the whole roof off we could take it through the garage as they have a roller door at the rear as well. Unfortunately with my son- in law we is not a plural, so I removed all the screws holding the roof then we lifted it off. Then using pipes I rolled it through the garage. I then rolled it onto its back because i had noticed the floor under the carpet seamed to have dry rot. So there it stays until he gets some ply to replace the floor & some bearers .
Now back to Landy, I did my paint repairs , sand blasted the engine side plate & etch primed it along with the new brake pipe clips i had bought, left it in the sun for a couple of hours then sprayed the side plate gloss black & dipped the clips in some yellow enamel mixed with hardener. as per James Taylor's book that says they should be yellow.

Northern Lander

5th February 2017, 07:33 PM

Hi Wayne,

The hand throttle was painted a light green, similar to the original light green land rovers.
I am almost 99% sure but cant get to an example to make sure.
Hope this helps

Brendan

1950landy

5th February 2017, 08:52 PM

I noticed that in one photo in James Taylors book but thouhht it was of a 48 LR. May paint it silver if I cant find small can of correct colour
. Thanks Brendan

chazza

6th February 2017, 08:26 AM

I noticed that in one photo in James Taylors book but thouhht it was of a 48 LR. May paint it silver if I cant find small can of correct colour
. Thanks Brendan

Wattyl make a green, which is a perfect match for the hand throttle. Not sure what they call it though,

Cheers Charlie

1950landy

6th February 2017, 03:25 PM

Wattyl make a green, which is a perfect match for the hand throttle. Not sure what they call it though,

Cheers Charlie

Thanks for that I will have a look at my Wattle colour chart when I get home on Thursday.

1950landy

10th February 2017, 04:31 PM

We have been away for the last week up Maryborough way. We called in to see
123Rover50 on the way through & had a look at his latest project.
This afternoon managed to get a little done. Etch primed some of the new 1/4" BSF bolts , nuts, & washers. After allowing a couple of hours for the primer to dry I painted some of them Black , some Silver & the rest DBGreen.
I have also started to bolt some of the fittings back on the bulkhead.

Dinty

11th February 2017, 07:35 AM

Wayne, you have caught my painting disease, LOL good to see cheers Dennis:)

1950landy

11th February 2017, 08:31 AM

Wayne, you have caught my painting disease, LOL good to see cheers Dennis:)

The last time I painted Landy I went through all the bolts with an artist brush & painted the heads of the bolts after fitting. Very time consuming .

1950landy

12th February 2017, 12:57 PM

Was going to change the bolts in the bulk head for ones I painted on Friday but after changing two bolts my shirt was soaked with perspiration so decided that was a bad idea. :o
I grabbed the instrument panel that I had previously painted & went into the A/C :D & refitted the gauges & switches. I have fitted LED bulbs in the dash lights so the instruments can be seen better at night. :D
I am thinking of taking the fuel gauge to Otto's instruments to have it cleaned & the face refreshed . The Speedo & AMP were new last time & the fuel gauge is original , it is not bad but looks out of place. I will see what it is going to cost, & make a decision. :confused:
I still need to refurbish the oil light holder, it has a bit of surface rust so have put it in rust converter & I will see what it looks like in the morning , may need to sandblast the metal tube , spring & retainer. I also need to find some thin green plastic sheet to make a new green lens that goes behind the brass cover with the word oil.
My wife has just told me the kids & grand kids are heading our way to cool off in the pool so have to pack up now.
Tomorrow is suppose to be a bit cooler, one can only hope.:)

series1buff

12th February 2017, 10:04 PM

I am thinking of taking the fuel gauge to Otto's instruments to have it cleaned & the face refreshed . :)

When installed in a vehicle , the gauge and the sender unit do require a good earth, I run a separate earth return wire from the sender unit ( use one of the mounting screws ) to the gauge itself ( use the knurled nut on the gauge holder bracket ).

1950landy

12th February 2017, 11:08 PM

I have a new wiring harness I am instaling & yes I will have an earth on each of the gauges the same as I had before. When I did the restoration 29 years ago I made my own harness which I had earth wires going to every thing . I am replacing it as it doese not look as neet as the Vintage Wiring Harness do.

1950landy

22nd February 2017, 10:43 PM

I dont know were my posts from January 13 untill yesterday have gone. & cant find other peoples posts that I have been following. Also cant find anywere to click to view posts I have following.

JDNSW

23rd February 2017, 05:33 AM

There have been serious issues with the website due to hardware failure. See the last post on A reminder if i may (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/aulro-admin-news/231860-reminder-if-i-may-3.html)

John

1950landy

24th February 2017, 06:16 PM

Well not a lot got done today, I did manage to bolt the rear PTO back in place & tighten some of the bolts I had put in finger tight.119803119804119805

1950landy

24th February 2017, 06:23 PM

I also fitted the two brackets that the accelerator springs attach to but because I never had my phone with me at the time I didn't take a photo of were they go . Can anyone tell me if I have put them in the correct places . I have put the long one to the bottom accelerator bearing & the small one to the top accelerator bearing.119806119807

1950landy

27th February 2017, 03:08 PM

Today I painted a few more bits gloss black. 1st was the rear tail shaft then the hand brake leaver these had already been etch primed .. I then sanded back the repairs I did on the steering wheel the other day , masked the chrome bars & gave a coat of etch primer.[smilebigeye]
Then it was off to the workshop to see if I could get the top of the steering column off so I can fit the column to bulk head grommet. T removed the lock nut & bearing nut from the top of the inner column & removed the balls , I was now able to unscrew the inner shaft from the large nut in the steering box & remove the shaft. I thought the 4 dowels may have been screwed in but no such luck. [bigsad] I then drilled the pins out going up one size at a time until I had all 4 out. I now tried to knock the top off the outer column but it would not budge. [bigsad]It was time to get the heat out & I heated the top until it was glowing red , it still wouldn't budge.[bigsad] I thought may be if I heat the boss & freeze the column tube it may let go. Guess what the can of Freeze was almost empty. I have to go down near were I buy the freeze tomorrow so will have another go tomorrow.
By the time I got home the etch primer had dried enough to give the steering wheel a coat of gloss black enamel with added hardener. I also unbolted the battery tray & gave i a coat of primer ready to paint gloss black when I give the steering wheel a second coat in a couple of days once it has dried properly119928119929119930119931119932.
.

1950landy

27th February 2017, 03:16 PM

119933119934119935
Some more photo's of the steering column. Once I get this boss off I will either tap threads into the boss & fit some long grub screws or make up new pins & drive them in.

QUESTION Has any one tried to remove the top boss on a 80" steering column. if so how did you go about it ?:confused:

1950landy

9th March 2017, 04:06 PM

120321120322120323120324I

I gave up on the idea of getting the top boss off the steering column. I decided because I had bought two of the grommets i would split one , then make up a template of the gap between the ends & cut a wedge out of the other grommet. I then wrapped glad wrap around the column & glued the wedge into the split grommet. Looks like it is going to work. [smilebigeye]

1950landy

9th March 2017, 04:25 PM

120325120326120327I started cleaning the contacts on the horn button & Dip switch , & was going to replace the wiring that runs up the centre tube but when I had a look in the box with the new wiring harness they had not supplied that part of the harness. [bigsad] So off to the auto electrician to buy the correct colour wires so I could make up a harness. There gone ,[bigsad] so I went to three more in the area that I knew of, all closed up shop.[bigsad] That's the problem living in Brisbane there one day gone the next.
I thought about using trailer wire but then the colours are not going to be correct. I rang the company who supplied the harness & they said that they don't usually supply that part of the harness. When I first inquired about the harness I had asked if it came with he harness & was told it did . So they are going to make one up & send it to me. I have cleaned the contacts & coated them with Vaseline to stop corrosion. I found some small grommets at the auto shop that will work as insulators & it is all ready to go once the harness turns up.120328 I also fitted the rear prop shaft after running a die nut down the thread.

1950landy

9th March 2017, 04:40 PM

120329120330120331One of the claws on the air filter cradle was broken , fortunately I had a new Rover P5 air filter that has the same claws , so I robed one off it to repair the one on Landy.
120332120333Also yesterday a few more bits turned up in the post. I found some small LED screw in bulbs that will fit the ignition , choke & oil lights in the dash. I hop they will make them easier to see, especially the oil light that has to shine through the word OIL that is cut into the brass disc in the front of the light holder. Also a new Rub strap for the bonnet & a new oil plate for on top of the front panel.
I also found a set of SS wire radiator hose clamps , so fave started fitting some of the radiator hoses.

1950landy

10th March 2017, 04:41 PM

I have developed Dermatitis in my fingers so am now going three mornings a week for treatment[bigsad] that takes up most of the morning by the time I drive to the doctors , have the treatment , then drive home.
So a little got done this afternoon. I managed to get the radiator panel painted & also the underside of the front edge of the bonnet & the two rolled under sides. I am leaving the rest of the underside as it came out of the factory , unpainted.120380120381120381120382

I clicked on the same photo twice cant see how to remove one so I will leave it .[bighmmm]

I also started running the new wiring harness on the bulkhead , I will post up photo's when I get that part of the wiring finished. .

1950landy

15th March 2017, 06:20 PM

I spent the morning stripping an old wiring harness out of a P4 Rover to get some of the wire colour wires I needed for my head lights. I decided it would be easier to wire the head lights up then have a connector on thew out side of the light to connect to the new harness.120532120533120534

I then bolted the lights & horn back into the front panel. I also found a couple of the correct size grommets & fitted into the panel to stop the new harness chafing on the Aluminium.120535120536

For those that have a keen eye you will notice that the reflectors have a hole in them for park lights , I fitted these reflectors as they have a larger hole for the bulb & I have fitted Hegelian bulbs for better light. [smilebigeye] the grill cuts down at least 50% of the light. I found if I was using the vehicle at night I would have to remove the grill to be able to see.[bigsad]

1950landy

15th March 2017, 06:32 PM

I fitted the wiring back into the original clips ( I am also running earth wires from the electrical components back to a common point on the body which will then run a single wire back to the battery earth. [smilebigeye] I didn't want to risk the possibility of bad earths between the new painted panels.
The next job was to refit the radiator which I had had cleaned & a new overflow pipe fitted some weeks back.120544120544120545120546

Then it was time to cut some insertion rubber mounts for the front panel & bolt the panel back on the chassis.120547

1950landy

17th March 2017, 03:54 PM

120608120609Another half day of work today, started by attaching the self cancelling indicator switch to the large boss non the steering column. Now all I need to do is work out how to stop the top dust cover from turning free of the inner column then I can attach a lug to the cover to hit on the fingers of the switch if I can find a wider section lock nut there would be enough metal to attach the cover with some small metal threads, or screw a lug to the lower face of the steering wheel to do the same. :confused:120610120611 I also wired the bulk head side lights & refitted them & went through my old screw collection & found a couple of 1/4" BSF metal threads with rounded heads to hold the grill.

1950landy

17th March 2017, 04:02 PM

120612120613
I also got a start on the L/H front guard removing the 10 bolts that hold the outer & inner guards together. By this time my wife came home & wanted to put her car in the garage were i was working & it was starting to rain quite heavy & was getting too dark to see with out the lead light, [bigsad] so I packed up my bongo's for another day.

klonk

18th March 2017, 10:53 PM

Going well, I'm still amazed at how much time it takes to do stuff on these cars.

JDNSW

19th March 2017, 05:40 AM

Going well, I'm still amazed at how much time it takes to do stuff on these cars.

They were built with a minimum of tooling, which meant a lot of 'fitting' was involved in the manufacture. Which in turn means that there is a lot of fiddling in rebuilding.

1950landy

19th March 2017, 05:01 PM

My main problem at the moment is I only get to work on it three 1/2 days a week at the moment & one of my daughters are asking me to doo things for them because there husbanes wouldn't which end of a hammer to hold.[bighmmm]

1950landy

24th March 2017, 04:15 PM

120919120920My care package turned up from John Craddocks today. All seams to be there but I was disappointed that the front pipe didn't have the 2 X mud shields with it as the show in there parts listing.120921120923120924 The reason I bought a new manifold as this is the 3rd manifold that I have broken[bigsad] , all in the same place. I ground some more of the pipe plug in the side of the block besides the rear exhaust port to make sure there were no high spots that could cause the new manifold to brake.[smilebigeye] Then refitted the manifold & front pipe . I have to go to the bolt Co next week & buy a 7 1/2" BSF bolt for the L/H rear shocky as the original is not long at 7" to attach the exhaust mount , also need some 2" X 5/16" BSF bolts to bolt the clamp between the front & intermediate pipe . I should be able to use the old shocky bolt for the rear bracket.

1950landy

24th March 2017, 04:34 PM

120925 I have not worked out how I am going to get around this problem at the moment . The spout in the bottom hose pipe on the water pump has been welded by some one in the wrong position in the pipe & it comes up under the pipe attached to the heater tap. May see if I can buy a 90 deg elbow that will fit a 1/2 " copper pipe . I can get in to a straight piece of hose but it rubs in the other pipe .120926 I also got a start on the outer guards today giving them a rough up with an orbital sander & filling a couple of small dents. I also ground the heads off the screws securing the spring clip for the bonnet prop. After 67 years they were not going to budge & i didn't want to use a impact driver on the lite gauge aluminum. Will try heat next week to see if I can get the screws to move , failing that drill them out run a tap through the thread & fit new screws.
This is why I am doing the car again now last time if it did not move I painted around it.[bighmmm]

1950landy

26th March 2017, 02:23 PM

121027121028 !st up I have a question , What has other's done about front indicators on there early 80" LR's ? This is what I am using at the moment but the plastic lens is getting very dull & they are hard to see. I have bought 4 x Defender indicator lights but am unsure how to mount them with out drilling holes in the guards I also do not want them to stand out like sore thumbs . I have the same on the rear at the moment mounted on top of the capping but they are always getting knocked . I think I know what to do at the back but any suggestions would be most welcome. :confused:
121030121031.121029 Also been doing more work on front guards . The angle stiffener under the L/H guard had broken one of the spot welds , so I drove a wedge under it so I could glue it with Stick-flex , then remover the wedge & placed a wooden block along the angle & clamped it . Once it is dry I will put a countersunk alum pop rivet in it so it is just below the top surface of the guard & fill over the rivet. [bighmmm] The outer guard panels & the R/H inner are in quite good condition But the top of the L/H inner guard needs a bit of attention as moisture has got under the paint which has caused some large bubbles in a number of places . what I have been doing in the past was to brake the bubbles clean up the area & etch prime & touch up with a brush with body color. This was OK while the rest of the paint work was a little tatty .

1950landy

28th March 2017, 03:54 PM

121123 No a lot going on with Landy today , had a guy from the Rover Car Club who is doing up an 88" S1 come around to have a look at what I am doing with Landy & PU some L/R special tools off me .[smilebigeye]
I did manage to remove the carby & fit the small support bracket for the breather pipe , I will get a star washer to go under the nut as there is not enough thread for a spring washer.[bigsad] I also need to touch up the paint on the pipe were I moved the clamp.
Also sanded the L/H inner guard & sprayed some more filler /Primer trying to get a couple of small marks out of the top surface.
Humidity here in Brisbane is around 90% with that cyclone up north so hot work sanding & not good weather for top coating , I want to get booth inner & outer guards ready so I can top coat them all at the same time. I am always mixing up too much paint & having to waist it as I am using hardener in it.[bigsad] It would be good if I can have them ready by the end of the week as I am driving up to Townsville on the weekend for a week while my daughter goes to Uni there for the extra teaching course externally through James Cook University.
I do not know what I am going to do all week will have to see if I can find some S1's to look at.[biggrin]

1950landy

21st April 2017, 07:30 AM

I have a question about suppliers , has any one used Dingocroft in the UK ? I have been trying to get a quote for freight off them over the last couple of months , I have now sent off my 5th quote request email to them . [bigsad] It is just there price for the parts I am after is 1/2 of other suppliers . Also I was wondering on the quality of the parts?

TimNZ

21st April 2017, 07:51 AM

If their pricing is that low, it's probably all Britpart. I usually start with Brit-car as you can see exactly which brand of part you are ordering.

Cheers,

1950landy

21st April 2017, 02:38 PM

I have not tried them. Have been using Craddocks but the exhaust system they supplied were Britpart & were not correct to the photo's , came without mud / heat shields.

1950landy

24th April 2017, 06:57 AM

Well I have sent another quote request off to Dingocroft a week ago & still on reply. I could not find what I am after at Britparts so may have to go back to Craddocks & pay double the price . Still not as bad as another co in the UK who had them for 10 times the price plus freight. I have also tried the Series One Shop here but have not received a reply. I just find some of the suppliers that have good prices for parts rip you off with the freight.
What I am looking for are 1" rear wheel cylinders that take 1/4" brake pipes . One of mine the sealing seat that the pipe flare seals against is cracked & the fluid is leaking past the nut.
Even if I can get a S/H R/H side one that I can get re sleeved would get me out of trouble. May just go back to Craddocks may be quicker.

phin

24th April 2017, 06:44 PM

Have you looked at the options at the series 1 shop? They are located in Victoria but I'm not sure whether the cylinders are britpart or not (I'd be keen to avoid britpart if possible).

80 inch (1948-53) (http://seriesoneshop.com/contents/en-us/d48.html)

1950landy

24th April 2017, 10:00 PM

Every time I have tried The Series One Shop I have never received a reply to Emails or phone messages I leave , so don't bother waisting my time . The only one time he has returned an Email I had asked for a freight cost & all I received was the cost for the parts which I already knew from his web site.

B.S.F.

25th April 2017, 08:06 AM

I've got some old cast iron wheel brake cylinders. How do I recognise a R/h rear for an 80"? There are no cast part numbers as on alloy ones. There is only a cast ' 1" '. .W.

phin

25th April 2017, 08:31 AM

I haven't had much luck on the email front either, although when I ordered pistons they were at my door in two days so can't fault the service there. Although that doesn't help you identify the wheel cylinder manufacturer...

1950landy

25th April 2017, 10:37 AM

122414
I've got some old cast iron wheel brake cylinders. How do I recognise a R/h rear for an 80"? There are no cast part numbers as on alloy ones. There is only a cast ' 1" '. .W.
The difference is with the R/H cylinder the brake pipe goese into the L/H side. This photo is taken looking down. I didn't realise there was a difference untill after I refittedvthe cylinders & new brake pipes & I have actually fitted them in the wrong sides , so it doesn't matter which side I get except I will need to re do the brake pipe.

1950landy

25th April 2017, 12:10 PM

Drawing from workshop manual shows the pipe going into front side (R/H) of the L/H wheel cylinder, as mine goese in the rear I have the cylinder fitted in the wrong side.122422

B.S.F.

25th April 2017, 12:34 PM

The one I've got, and you could have ,according to the parts catalogue ,belongs to the left rear wheel ( pipe at the front). It's a 1" cylinder ,it would need honing or sleeving. All the threads appear to be ok. If you're interested PM me your postal address and I will post it tomorrow. .W.

1950landy

25th April 2017, 09:31 PM

PM sent

1950landy

26th April 2017, 02:44 PM

Thanks for that BSF I will have a SS sleve fitted when it arrives. :thumbsup:

1950landy

3rd May 2017, 01:25 PM

My wife gave me some free time today, so when I returned home from having treatment on my hands I got stuck into the final prep on the front guards ready for primer & top coat.122831122832
I have sprayed the under side with stone guard .
122833

1950landy

3rd May 2017, 01:46 PM

122838I then turned my attention to the L/H door that appears to have bubbles under the paint . I removed the capping & all the reverts securing the seals & started hand sanding the paint off. This door was repaired at a panel shop the last time , it had some stresses in it. I noticed there were some cracks in the filler they had used so using a paint scraper proceeded to remove the flaking filler , it pealed off in sheets . & had not stuck to the Aluminum . Were the filler came off easy there are all these dark spots which are sticky & appear to be filler epoxy , were it had stuck there are none of these sticky spots & I had to use a flapper disc to remove the filler. My guess is they had not mixed the filler correct way back then. the filler was around 1/16" all over the door & i have never been real happy they had filled the spot weld marks . This panel shop was a classic car restoration shop & came highly recommended. The last photo is how I held the alum reverts in last time , they were some reverts I had bought at a swap meet & were too long & had gone hard so would not squash . So I used speed nuts & they have worked well . I had to use a wood chisel to cut the heads off because I could not get them out. 122835122836122837 Looks like i have a lot of work getting this door rite , there are a lot of hammer marks in it were they tried to get the stress out of it.[bigsad] I have to work out how to get the epoxy off the aluminum, I have tried the thinners I am ysing with my top coat but didn' t take it off . [bighmmm] will try turps & grease & wax remover see if that works.

1950landy

5th May 2017, 07:06 AM

Late yesterday I picked up the S/H wheel cylinder that BSF sent me from the Brake Co , SS sleeve , new pistons , spring & cup ex panders , bleeder, cups & boots , cost was $110 . hope to get it fitted & brakes bled this afternoon.122917 122917 Thanks again BFS.:thumbsup:

1950landy

5th May 2017, 03:45 PM

A little more done this afternoon . I refitted the L/H rear wheel cylinder & redirected the brake pipe. I did not bleed the brakes as my brother was not available to give me a hand. ( gone racing at historic racing Morgan Park)
decided I was sick of waiting for the company who supplied my wiring harness to supply the harness for the steering column so I found some 5 core trailer wire & used it instead. The wires are not going to be correct as per the wiring diagram but were the main harness has green with a red trace I have used red, green with white trace I used white & so on .[bighmmm]122927122928122929

I am also running a earth wire instead of using the brass tube as an earth .

1950landy

9th May 2017, 01:17 PM

All was going well today with the painting of the front guards . Primed over the spray putty & allowed about 4 hr to dry then lightly sanded to a smooth finish . I found another blemish in the front of the L/H inner guard so put it aside to repair & paint another day.[bigsad] After wiping down with wax & grease remover I mixed up some op coat & sprayed the 2 X outer guards & the R/H inner .After a couple of hours I mixed up some more top coat with 50% thinners to do the final coat . This is were I went wrong , I forgot to drain the water out of compressor tank & started getting water through the line.[bigsad] Looks like I am going to have to sand them down again after the paint fully drys. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.123109123110123111123112

I also made up a couple of brackets to mount the rear indicator lights, The larger one will also mount the trailer plug. I am going to mount them under the rear X Member just outwards of the plow hitch & inward of the mud flaps.
123113

1950landy

9th May 2017, 01:20 PM

All was going well today with the painting of the front guards . Primed over the spray putty & allowed about 4 hr to dry then lightly sanded to a smooth finish . I found another blemish in the front of the L/H inner guard so put it aside to repair & paint another day.[bigsad] After wiping down with wax & grease remover I mixed up some op coat & sprayed the 2 X outer guards & the R/H inner .After a couple of hours I mixed up some more top coat with 50% thinners to do the final coat . This is were I went wrong , I forgot to drain the water out of compressor tank & started getting water through the line.[bigsad] Looks like I am going to have to sand them down again after the paint fully drys. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.123109123110123111123112 I also painted 4 X antique garden seats Mat Black For my daughter a couple can be seen in the back ground.

I also made up a couple of brackets to mount the rear indicator lights, The larger one will also mount the trailer plug. I am going to mount them under the rear X Member just outwards of the plow hitch & inward of the mud flaps.
123113

1950landy

26th May 2017, 04:58 PM

Well it's been a wile but did manage to get some time this afternoon. I have been working on my BMW getting it ready to drive down to Tamworth for the North West Rally over the June long weekend. I have found the alternator is not putting out enough charge so not sure which way to go , replace the regulator which also holds the brushes a new one is about $270 or fit a new Alternator at a cost of $850. Problem being is if i replace the regulator & doesn't fix it then I am still up for the cost of the alternator & they won't take the regulator back once I have fitted it. Probable best bite the bullet & buy the alternator. Parts for my 33 year old BMW are harder to get than for my 67 Year old Land Rover[bighmmm]
I managed to get the front guards top coated early last week before the major weather event that we were suppose to be getting & didn't happen . This afternoon I managed to bolt the 2 halves of the L/H front guard together & loosely fit it to the car. (Not an easy job by my self trying not to scratch the bulkhead) I also started bolting the R/H guard together , I will finish it tomorrow so I can line up the inner & outer guard properly. 123779

1950landy

27th May 2017, 02:30 PM

A bit more done today , R/H guard on123796 & all bolts tight.

Needed to get BMW ready for Mac Lean's Bridge Sports & Classic Car Festival tomorrow. Then wife wanted her car cleaned . Grrrrrrrr Only cleaned it last week , if she stayed home once in a while it wouldn't get dirty.

1950landy

3rd July 2017, 02:07 PM

It's been 2 months now since I last posted on here. Time fly's when you are retired & every one has some thing for you to do except what you want to do.:(

I have been doing little bits here & there when I had time , mainly doing adjustments & bleeding brakes , connecting the wires behind the dash & screwing the dash in. I have bolted the tub back n with one bolt in each corner & started removing the galv capping. I am wanting to take it to the Samford Show Car Show on the 15/16th & needed to have it running & be able to fit the seat to the seat box so I could drive it up our street & onto a trailer.125406125407

After bleeding the air out of the fuel lines the motor fired up on the 1st push of the solenoid.

1950landy

3rd July 2017, 02:27 PM

The last time I called into Keith's ( 123Rover50) place he gave me a rusted 80" fuel tank so I could cut the side out & glue it to the home tank in Landy to make it look like a original tank.

I've been walking around the tank for the last few months looking at it & wondering if it is worth saving. :angel: I decided to bite the bullet & have a go at repairing it.:o 125408

125408I cut along the inside of the side wall & removed the rusted sections, then heated the remaining metal on the flange & slowly removed the remaining metal.125409125410I have also removed the excess metal on the under side of the flange .

The pressing in the bottom with the drain plug I will remove with a large hole saw & weld it onto the new floor.

1950landy

12th July 2017, 02:05 PM

Landy is loaded ready to go to the Samford Show. Bonnet is in primer , no floor , windscreen or tailgate. At least people will be able to see how the PTO works with out having to get on there hands & knees.[smilebigeye]125932125933125934

1950landy

12th July 2017, 02:10 PM

This is the 1st time it has been out of the garage since September last year.125935125936 I will take Landy out Friday then go & pick up a friends 80" which is a bit further advanced than mine & drop it off also.[smilebigeye]

123rover50

12th July 2017, 04:32 PM

Have a good one[bigsmile1]
Give our apologies to Trevor. We have to go to Nambour Hospital again on the Friday. Cant get there.

K

1950landy

12th July 2017, 04:36 PM

Thats OK , understand health comes first.

1950landy

14th August 2017, 02:28 PM

It's been a little wile since i last posted anything, but I am still plodding on.
Since my last post I have been trying to get the new wiring harness to fit neatly , it all seams to be too long everywhere. I have also current running to were it should. 127820127824127829I have also mounted the Defender indicator lights at the front & rear

1950landy

14th August 2017, 02:48 PM

I have also been working on the tub & seat box doing some repairs & preparing them for painting. I am taking the tub to my old business to get a couple of repairs done using a tig, then it will just be a matter of some final prep & they will be ready to paint.
I managed to get the 1st top coat on the bonnet & vent this morning & will leave them to dry before sanding ready for the final coat.
127834127835127836I have mounted the flasher can under the bonnet just below the fuel pump were the junction box was originally mounted. The wiring harness I bought didn't allow to use the junction box & because I am running Hegelian bulbs in my lights I wanted to run them through a relay which can be seen resting against the inner guard to the left of the steering column it suited me not to refit the junction box.
The harness also came with all the wires for the trailer plug so I have also wired it as well.

1950landy

15th August 2017, 12:54 PM

I went & PU the tub from the sand blasters this morning & took it to my old business & they welded up the crack in the brace on the R/H opening for the tail gate.127954

While the tub was being welded I painted the seat box & bell housing cover .127955127956 Then rubbed back the bonnet & wind screen vent ready for the final coat Friday.

1950landy

15th August 2017, 01:06 PM

127958127959127960This is how & were I have mounted the Defender indicator lights. If you look carefully you will see the wires have a covering on then that looks like cloth covering on an old wiring harness. I bought this from Auto Barn , it is split down the length & over laps on the end so wraps around 400 deg of a circle. When you cut it to length you singe the ends to stop it fraying

1950landy

18th August 2017, 07:53 AM

128101128102My new D Lamps turned up in the post yesterday , I have always wanted this type with out the bar . Also a new 4 lb Radiator cap. The old one the brass ring that sits against the flange had started to crack.128103

1950landy

19th August 2017, 10:42 AM

I spent most of yesterday looking for were I put the R/H sill channel without success, Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr . This is the L/H 128136
I also fitted the new indicator switch & got the indicators working. 128137Strange the switch had no earth wire & just relied on earthing through the body & painted steering column, so the light on the end of the stork would not work. I drilled a hole in the switch body & attached an earth wire then attached the other end to the steering column clamp bolt.
A kob next week will be to run the new wire to the trafficator switch 128138

1950landy

19th August 2017, 11:10 AM

This morning I've been getting a few things ready for painting next week, if the wind dies down.128139128140128141

I will go back our again after lunch & have a good clean up & see if I can find the R/H sill channel.

Dinty

19th August 2017, 05:58 PM

Just as well I'm not restoring anything ATM as I would be very annoyed with the gale force winds we have here, you couldn't even spray Olive Drab in tht wind LOL cheers Dennis

JDNSW

19th August 2017, 08:26 PM

Tell me about it - this morning I was refitting the front prop shaft to the 2a after fitting a new boot on it. I had a rag to make sure there was no dirt on the mating surfaces, I put it down on the concrete, and it blew away. As did the tray I had the bolts and nuts in when I was down to one bolt!

1950landy

20th August 2017, 09:15 AM

I had a PM from Jerwards about my indicator switch set up, so thought I would post the answer here so others could see.
128215This is my old indicator switch I was using which has self canceling fingers & I was going to weld a lug onto the domed cover at the top of the steering column to trigger the fingers then some how lock the cover to the inner steering column. Unfortunately this switch was missing the light Lens & the wire that runs up the stork to light up the bulb was missing. I have been 30 years looking for a Lens cover with out success & the only new switches of this type do not come in self canceling ability, so have decided to go with having the light working on the stork.
128216128217 As you can see the switch is held on to the large part of the outer steering column by a radiator hose clip .
I will see how this goes , if I find I am still forgetting to turn it off i can always do what my father in law did in his Hilux D/C . He had a beeper fitted to the flashers that beeped in side the cab every time they flashed . But with the noise inside the S1 I may not hear it either.:whistling:
Hope this helps .

1950landy

20th August 2017, 09:36 AM

128219There are also vacuum self canceling indicator switches available from Holden Vintage & Classic UK that have a leaver like the original LR switch mounted on the wind screen frame. Also you can buy electronic devices that turn off the indicators automatically.

jedwards

20th August 2017, 01:23 PM

1950landy

20th August 2017, 02:19 PM

Many thanks.
Replacements for your current non-cancelling units are quite inexpensive and may yield the parts you need to fully restore your old self cancelling unit.
Universal Turn Signal Switch - Chrome Steel Housing, Vintage, Car, Truck | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Turn-Signal-Switch-Chrome-Steel-Housing-Vintage-Car-Truck-/232122884784)

best of luck
Jeff
I tried that the lens will not screw onto the stork , the out side dia of the lens is the same size as the ou size dia of the thread. . I could have fitted a new wire through the stork no trouble . I will hang onto the old switch at the moment something may turn up. I am just running out of time I want to have Landy back on the road by mid September so I can drive her to All British Day. I havn,t missed a All British Day in 30 years & this year Landy is the only British vehicle I have un like previous years when I had two.

1950landy

23rd August 2017, 01:13 PM

I did the final top coat on the bonnet & wind screen vent a week ago, or so I thought. Some bugs decided to skate around on the wet paint [bigsad] so back to square one & rub back & re prime. I have just finished giving them a sand ready for top coat when the weather is rite.128422 They are sitting in what sun we are having at the moment drying after i washed them.
I have also prepared the seat box lids , panel under center seat & floor plates.128423128424

1950landy

23rd August 2017, 01:27 PM

I am also getting the tail gate ready for painting , I hope to have it ready for when I top coat the other bits128425128426 There are a lot of nicks out of the tail gate on the inside so am slowly building them up with spray putty, on the out side there is a small crease in one side & on the other there were two holes were the number plate had been attached . I have filled them with Devcon Aluminum Filler & am hopping to work out some way to attach the plate were it should be mounted with out having to pay $2500 for plates that will fit under thew tail light.
I have thought of using the plates off my BMW but unfortunately they are painted Blue [bigsad] I was always taught Blue & Green should never be seen.[bighmmm] May have to go to Qld Transport & see what they have, or get a cost to change the color of the plates.

1950landy

23rd August 2017, 01:40 PM

I still have not found were i put the R/H sill channel so decided to make a new one out of a alum RHS pool fence post 128427 . I stuck some tape on two sides & drew a line on opposite sides for the legs of the channel. Then I clamped the post to the saw horse & using my circular saw cut along the two lines . Then cut the channel to length. Then using a flat smooth file removed the burs from the cuts .
This post had been powder coated so I have sanded the coating with some coarse wet & dry . I am just waiting for it to dry now then I will prime it so I can top coat it with the other bits .128428128429
Just got to pope the paint will take to the powder coating & stay on.[bighmmm]

1950landy

25th August 2017, 11:08 AM

Ideal conditions for painting today.128514128515128516

1950landy

25th August 2017, 11:10 AM

And a few more bits128517128518 :banana::banana::banana:

1950landy

27th August 2017, 02:48 PM

I spent most of today wasting & cleaning my wife's I30 & my BMW ( they have been getting neglected lately) before starting on Landy.[smilebigeye]
I washed the tub & tail gate down with truck to get all the dust out of them ready for priming later in the week ( if it doesn't rain)128577

then I run a die over around 100 1/4" BSF bolts & washed them in wax & grease remover . I then set 20 of them up in some holes in cardboard so I could etch prime , then prime . Once the they had dried I moxed up a little silver paint with hardener & painted the heads. These bolts will be used on the bonnet fittings. 128578

I also painted the spring latches for the bonnet with the same paint.128579

That is it for a couple of days , tomorrow I am helping my brother get the body of his Mk2 Jaguar down out of the car port rafters were it has lived for the last 15 years & bolting the suspension so we can move it to our workshop for the rebuild. [bighmmm]

1950landy

28th August 2017, 04:27 PM

To days job was getting another fine bit of British engineering down from the rafters of brothers car port.128644128645128646 The body was set at this angle so he could park his Falcon Ute with canopy under it.[biggrin]

1950landy

28th August 2017, 04:33 PM

Half way down128647 front X member & Diff bolted back in place 128648 Then loaded 128650 on to trailer for trip to workshop loading 128649

My back feels like I have been working under the bonnet of a Land Rover all day[bigsad]

1950landy

29th August 2017, 03:09 PM

Not much happened today, daughter turned up at 7 am with sick grand son to look after. Grrrrrrrrrr . Did get a chance to bolt some of the fittings back onto the bonnet until I ran out of !/4" BSF nuts.

I do have a question but. What holds the spare wheel galv dish on the bonnet is it rivets or metal threads with nuts? I have looked in my parts book & workshop manual but don't seam to be able to find it.[bighmmm]128688
Sorry about the poor quality photo with with sunlight & shadows , this time of after noon not good for phone camera.

JDNSW

29th August 2017, 09:10 PM

I think it depends on who fitted the spare tyre carrier. They were always optional equipment, and would have been probably rivetted if fitted by Rover, but almost certainly screws, nuts and spring washers if dealer fitted. Later ones would have been pop rivetted, but pop rivets were not commonly available until about the mid 1950s or later.

1950landy

30th August 2017, 01:01 PM

Found a bit of time to prime Tub & Tailgate.[smilebigeye] 128722128723 Will not be able to do any more work until end of next week.:thumbsdown:

1950landy

8th September 2017, 02:46 PM

Been away on short holiday the last week so nothing done last week. Before I went I primed the tub & tailgate ready for top coat. First thing this morning I gave them a lite sand & a wipe over wit grease & wax remover.
Then out with the spray gun & mixed up some Deep Bronze Green & gave them the 1st light coat . The paint I am using can be re coated129167 in 1/2 hr so a second & 3rd coat were applied before mixing a 50/50 mix for the final coat.129168 After lunch the paint was dry enough to start fitting the Galv capping.129169

1950landy

8th September 2017, 03:12 PM

I have now started fitting the reverts , I made up a tool from a drawing that Dennis (Dinty) sent me & find it works extremely well. 129170 129171

While we were up the coast last week I came across a shop who had these paintings for sale129172129173 They booth have S1 Land Rovers in them along with other classic cars. I was tempted to buy them until i was the price :o & my wife said they were too expensive to put on the wall of the garage.[bigsad]
Between coats this morning I went to 2 different bolt co's looking for 5/16" X 1" & 1/4" X 3/4" BSF bolts & nuts . The 1st had 30 - !/4" bolts & nuts & 50 - 5/16" X 1" bolts but no nuts , . The 2nd had the 50 - 5/16"nuts but only 2 - 1/4" x 1 1/2" but no nuts , so i still need to order another 70 - 1/4" x 3/4" bolts & nuts . What I have should keep me out of trouble .
I am off to the garage to etch prime & prime the heads of them now so I can put some color on them tomorrow.

1950landy

9th September 2017, 03:21 PM

Bit more progress today. Got the lad over the road to help me lift the tub back on.129200 I then bolted the new D Lamps I bought a couple of weeks ago on.129201 Then opened them up so I could connect the wires & then it was test time129202129203 Two tail / stop lights working.:arms: The next job was to refit the seat box & gear box cover.129204129205 I had to remove the heater so as to get the gear box cover back in place.
I have not tightened any of the bolts as yet so I can move things around & get every thing to line up.
I have put the tail gate in place held on with the latch wedges & no hinges as yet , I need to paint some with silver paint mixed with hardener before bolting the hinges in place.129206

1950landy

11th September 2017, 05:08 PM

Not a lot of LR work done today. Wife had two specialists appointments today , the first with the eye specialist & after having drops wasn't allowed to drive , so that meant I had to drive her around . 1st to Spotlite, Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr , then David Jones filling in time until her next appointment . Got home around 3.30pm.
Just enough time to do a couple of small jobs before it started getting cold & dark. 1st was to fit the support chains & latch wedges on the tailgate 129283 the 2nd job was to fit the R/H sill channel I made a couple of weeks ago . Guess what when i went to fit it it was way too long , I had made it mirror image of the L/H side but the R/H one only gorse from the bulkhead to the front of the fuel tank were the L/H one goes back to the front of the tub.:wallbash: so into the parts boxes to find the sill & there it was in the second box i looked in.[bigsmile1] I hadn't bothered looking in the boxes as I was looking for some thing over a meter long not around 400mm long.[bighmmm]129284 The correct sill in the for ground & the one I made behind it. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr I will need to paint it tomorrow so I can start fitting the floor.
Wife has Bitch & Stitch at our place tomorrow so I should be able to get a full days work done, I HOPE

1950landy

12th September 2017, 03:42 PM

All has not gone to plan today. My wife kept asking me to do things ( clean the kitchen windows & the glass doors , photo copy things & print some photo's) because the ladies were coming so that made for a late start.
I started by painting the R H sill channel , then started tightening all the bolts I had left loose on the seat box & L/H floor so I could centralize them. I also fitted the new holding straps to hold up the seat box lids .
When I was out with my wife yesterday I had bought some 1/4" & 5/16 " flat & spring washers from Bunnings THAT WAS A MISTAKE , went to use them today the 1/4" spring washers would not fit the shaft of the bolts & the 1/4" flat washers I could use on the 5/16" bolts. Bunnings Grrrrrrrrrrrrr All the packets are marked wrong. :thumbsdown: I wish Masters were still open they were only 5 min down the road & they also had a good stock of BSF bolts as well. , our closest Bunnings is 3/4 hr drive in good traffic . So off to Repco to buy more washers . While I was out I went to the workshop to PU the new seats I had bought from the UK.
I had bought the locating rubbers for the seat bottoms so decided to fit them , Looks like I will need to go back to the workshop tomorrow to get some bolts ,129329 as the nut to secure the rubbers are not BSF or BSW. , I would say they are metric Or could be SAE, also the nut certs in the seat backs are not BSF either.129330 Also fitted the new bulkhead to windscreen frame rubber that came with the seats

I have now knocked off for the day I have got L/R back & hopefully tomorrow will be a better day.:wheelchair:

Dinty

12th September 2017, 06:03 PM

I made an agreement with the good wife aka T/A when I need help LOL that we do house work on a Tuesday every week, it seems to be working ( I think) then down the shed to continue making small parts by the hundreds for my 5" live steam model Locomotive n tender, today I finished off the 8 main leaves for the tender, anyway 1950 landy sorry for the hi-jack, cheers Dennis
[smilebigeye]

1950landy

15th September 2017, 07:21 AM

I did get some work done on Wednesday. I went to the workshop & found some short 6mm bolts for the seat backs then off to bolt company to get some longer 6mm bolts to hold the locators on the seat bottoms. I also had to make up some inserts to stop the rubber squashing when bolting them on. 129437 While I was at the workshop I welded the grip bumps on the worn clutch peddle I am still not sure how to go about fitting the number plate under the tail light, so while at the workshop I made up a support bracket like they use in the Defenders .129439 but I am not sure about that also as the plate sticks out 40mm past the side of the tub 129440 129442

Back at home I bolted the seat backs in & fitted the locators to the seat bottoms129443 Then bolted the R/H floor in place & fitted the brake & clutch peddle 129444 Then refitted the heater 129445
That was it for Wednesday.
Yesterday was my no L/R work day , we had to look after the twins who turn two today 129446

123rover50

15th September 2017, 07:24 AM

Dont you have the pivoting number plate holder that hangs centre of the tailgate?

Keith

1950landy

15th September 2017, 07:38 AM

Dont you have the pivoting number plate holder that hangs centre of the tailgate?

Keith
I did have one Keith but I gave it to Brendan & I want to try to mount it were it should be mounted & don't want to cut into the new harness to run wiring for the No plate light. May go to Qld Transport & see what it will cost to change the color of the plates off the BMW . The back one on it will fit on the back but they are blue & would look odd on a green car. If it is not too expensive I will change them to white on black.
The plates on the BMW I cant work out what they mean , they have no relation to the previous two owners names or the model of BMW it is & I have never rely liked the color even on the blue BMW & was thinking of changing them to black & white for it also.129447
That clutch peddle is the one I got off you Keith , came up better than I expected.
Wayne

67hardtop

15th September 2017, 12:59 PM

This is great work ur doing there. Im loving it.

Cheers Rod

1950landy

15th September 2017, 03:51 PM

Not much done on Landy today. When we were away up the coast I fell down a step & landed on my wrist , I have put up with the pain all week because I knew if I went to the doctors I would not have been able work on the car if they put it in a cast, but it got the better of me this morning so I rang doctors for an appointment. The result was 129456 still waiting for results of X ray.

I decided to slip the doors back on there hinges , R/H one has no paint on it & L/H still has the original paint . I will take it for a test drive tomorrow to see how she is running after a year off the road. If she is going OK I will drive to ABD on Sunday if not will take on a trailer.129457129458

Just had a call from the doctor , no brakes , chips or cracks :banana: all soft tissue damage & keep wearing the wrist support .:thumbsdown:

klonk

15th September 2017, 07:16 PM

1950landy

15th September 2017, 10:10 PM

Not too sure what to do with my number plate either same problem . I have fitted your lights so have been puzzled by this. Don't really want to pay $400 odd dollars for custom plates.
By the way your seat locators are on upside down. The flange is pushed through the hole and stops the seat coming out accidentally if you land upside down [bigsad]. I used Bunnings door stoppers, not sure how long the flange will last before it breaks off.

Cheers Steve
Hi Steve ,
$400 is cheap from what I can work out from the PPQ web site the playes I need in Qld are $2500. I wasn't sure how the locaters fitted , they are a tight fit the way I have fitted them, I dought the flange would last more than one removal. Also I do not intend turning up side down[biggrin]

JDNSW

16th September 2017, 05:41 AM

1950landy

16th September 2017, 02:11 PM

Well took Landy for a drive this morning , all is working well except the gear box. If I can get 1st & 2nd & reverse I can't get 3rd , 4th. Has to be some thing in the selector interlock. I am not going to worry tomorrow I will just use 3rd ,4th & reverse & if I have to start on a hill I will use 1st & 2nd until i get onto the flat again, then I just need to select reverse to then be able to select 3rd & 4th.[bigsad]

I have fitted the 1/2 cab canvas tilt as it was quite cold here this morning & I have just spent the last 4 weeks trying to get rid of a cold & don't want to freshen it up.129487

Then to finish it off I gave it a wash & fitted the gentleman's pipe & holder.129488

Steve how did the lights come up?

1950landy

16th September 2017, 02:16 PM

There is a reason why all Australian assembled Series Landrovers came with the number plate mounting and light on the tailgate. Rover's original design did not take into account the standardised size of an Australian numberplate - although I don't think it was standardised in 1948.
I think in Qld back then we still had Q plates & most people cut then & mounted them the same as in the UK with some numbers above the others . Don't think the police worried about them that much back then.

JDNSW

16th September 2017, 02:36 PM

Yes.They had changed to the uniform system when I moved to Qld in early 1962, but not only were there still a lot of cars about with 'Q' numbers, but all the forms etc still referred to 'Q numbers'. I think the change must have been in the late fifties, although I remember when my father bought a new (S/H) car in 1953 (NSW) it came with the six digit uniform system, which had been agreed between the states - NSW started with AAA, Victoria with GAA, and Qld with NAA, although Qld may not have started on the system until they ran out of 'Q' numbers - I can't remember whether they were Q+five or Q+6. My Series 2 registered in Qld in 1963 was NRF812.

klonk

17th September 2017, 12:02 AM

Just up dated klonks thread, lights are good thanks Wayne.

1950landy

17th September 2017, 04:32 PM

Well I made it to All British Day Brisbane129563 & some of the other Land Rovers there129564 this 80" was V8 powered129565also V8 Powered129567129569129571129573129574 All clubs were down on previous years.

1950landy

17th September 2017, 04:44 PM

Then there were a few Rovers129575129577 There was on of every color Rover P6 which for some reason didn't take a photo of. There was also this re-bodied Range Rover129578 And this for those who like Military vehicles 129579 & for those who like Doctor Who 129580129581129582129583129584129585129586

1950landy

17th September 2017, 04:50 PM

Then there were some other British brands129587129588129589129590 I have a few more photo's I will post if some one does a report on the day . I feel I have hi-jacked my own thread now.[bighmmm]

1950landy

18th September 2017, 02:34 PM

There will be no more Land Rover work for a while , I promised my wife I would some jobs around the house after All British Day , but I was hopping to have Landy finished by ABD . like replacing a dry rotted retaining wall in front of the garage & re oiling our out door furniture. I think she has quite a long list for me to do, there are a lot of trees in the front garden that are badly drought affected that need cutting down as the guy who designed our garden has said they are never going to come back to what they were. Some of these trees were here when we moved in 35 years ago & are almost all dead wood. I will try to sort out the gear box selector problem on rainy days when I can not do the jobs she wants doing out side.

I WONDER HOW MANY DIVORCE CASES ARE CAUSED BU LAND ROVER FEVER ? :Rolling: Just kidding but I am sure there are cases some were in the world.

1950landy

20th September 2017, 10:10 AM

We have had some Swallows nesting in the garage & the nest is in the rafters between Landy & my wife's car so hasn't bothered me until this morning129768 You can just see the nest about 100mm from the rafter
The young are almost ready to leave home 129769129770 & are taking short flights but that,s not all they are doing 129771129772 I have nor covered Landy with plastic until they leave. Grrrrrrrrrrrrr
:eek2::thumbsdown::rocket: I know next year when the arrive to either cover Landy or try to chase them away, not sure how though .

trout1105

20th September 2017, 10:24 AM

You can use .22 bird shot, This normally discourages the little buggers [bigwhistle]

austastar

20th September 2017, 07:30 PM

Hi,
Laser pointers will agitate most birds, maybe enough to discourage further nesting?
Cheers

klonk

20th September 2017, 11:02 PM

People over here use plastic owls and sit them in the shed rafters. Don't know where they get them from.

1950landy

21st September 2017, 05:20 AM

People over here use plastic owls and sit them in the shed rafters. Don't know where they get them from.
I will try that my son in law has a couple of them , the Pee Wee,s were pooing on his window sills trying to attack there reflection, it seams to have worked. He also has
A rubber snake on one of the sills it didn't fool the birds but they had a friend feding there dogs when they were away she tried to move it with a stick.[smilebigeye]

1950landy

29th September 2017, 10:29 AM

130206 READY FOR NEXT YEAR. Went to Bunnings the other day & bought a plastic Owl , would have bought a couple more if they had more than one on stock, We have 3 Bunnings all the same distance from us , 2 out of the 3 did not have any stock, then two days later I receiver a Bunnings catalogue in the post showing Owls for around $20. I wish we still had our Masters down the road they used to stock everything & plenty of stock.

1950landy

1st October 2017, 10:41 PM

The owl has not worked , they are still coming back at night. :thumbsdown:

1950landy

2nd March 2018, 02:23 PM

To start with I have not been able to scare the birds away , they sit in the owls head ( may be because I bought it from Bunnings . Two out of every three things are no good & I have to return it)
I also tried a laser pointed , they leave when i point it at them but come back straight away.:thumbsdown: May be this is what is needed :rocket:

Now for the work progress Landy , there has not been any since September When I had a fall & punched holes through the cartage in my left wrist & have had to wear this since136943 I saw the specialist a couple of weeks ago & he gave me two options to fix it. The first which I am not keen on is to cut a section out of one of the long bones in my forearm & screw a SS plate on to hold it together & I will be in plaster for up to 6 months to stop the bones grinding together , the 2nd is to do keyhole surgery & clean out the chips of bone & grind the bones in the joint smooth again & it will be bandaged up for 10 days . I like the 2nd option but it may not be an 100% repair but it is worth having a go. .

Anyway yesterday I git sick of not being able to drive Landy so I removed the wrist brace then removed the floor & top of the gearbox to see why I only had 1st & 2nd or 3rd & 4th but couldn't select all the gears.:thumbsdown: What I found was when I was replacing the selector shaft seals I had not got one of the selector forks back in the correct place in the syncro drum. :bangin:I removed the forward gear rails & forks & fitted them correctly 136944136945 making sure the interlocks lined up.
This morning I refitted the the top & checked that I could get all gears OK then refitted the floor136946136947

I have knocked off for the day as my wrist is giving me hell But it was worth the pain to get a bit of LR therapy. I am now off to take some pain killers , refit the brace & give it a rest for a few days before doing a bit more to get it back on the road.[biggrin] My wife bought me a new carby for Landy for my birthday in January I can't wait to be able to fit it & see how much better she runs with out all there in the butterfly shaft. That I think will need to wait until after the OP as I keep droping the nuts when I am trying to get into difficult places.[bigsad]

klonk

2nd March 2018, 10:00 PM

Getting old sucks doesn't it.
Glad to see your back at landy, don't over do it. Shame about the rotten birds.

Cheers Steve

Fourgearsticks

3rd March 2018, 09:42 AM

Getting old sucks doesn't it.
Better than the alternative though [biggrin]

1950landy

6th March 2018, 03:49 PM

Still raining here in Brisbane so managed to get a little done.
!st - I stuck some self adhesive rubber seal on the seat box center cover & bolted that in place .
2nd- I refitted the heater , I had to remove it to remove the gear box cover. This took most of the time , not an easy job by your self trying to hold the heater up & fit the nuts on the securing studs especially the one behind the cylinder head, with only one good wrist, but got there in the end. Refilled the radiator & started the engine ( although not being started for over 4 months started on second turn) & ran up to operating temp to make sure there was no air locks. Also fitted the demister hoses .137058137059137060137061

Two securing nuts137063

1950landy

10th March 2018, 02:56 PM

My wife bought me a new Solex Carby for Landy back in January for my birthday ( Well I bought it & she warped it & gave it to me) I just took it out of the box & opened the sealed plastic bag to have a look at it. It looks rite but there are a few differences from the original. 1st it doesn't have a base section , the base & main body are molded in one piece. 2nd the vacuum advance line comes out in a different place behind the accelerator pump crank rod. 3rd there is no play between the throttle shaft & bushes in the body [biggrin] that's got to be a plus.

137367137368 137369
1st photo is old carby with vacuum line just above the holding down bolt.
2nd photo of new carby from same side , no hole for vacuum line.
3rd photo carby turned 90deg shows hole for vacuum line . This may or may not be a good place for it will see when i get around to fitting it.

This is the only bit of LR work done today its wife's turn to have Bitch & Stitch at our place this month so have had to trim all the hedges , mow & hose down the paths ready for Tuesday.[bigsad]
Grrrrrrrrr.

1950landy

11th March 2018, 09:33 AM

I need to buy a new oval to round joiner between the carby horn & air filter but the only one so far that I have found will cost me an arm & leg to buy & freight from Cyprus , around $160. does any one know of any at a better price.137431137432 My old one has a large split under neath.

I don't know what happened when I tried to post on here last time it started a new post & can not work out how to delete the other post.

137433 This is the new one that I have found.

klonk

14th March 2018, 10:55 AM

Part no 217575. 28 quid

Club Shop Parts List (http://www.lrsoc.com/forum/index.php?page=partslist)

cheers Steve

1950landy

14th March 2018, 03:31 PM

Thanks Steve, didn't think to look there. Jim ( Russelrover) has put one aside for me , I will get it off him when he get back from the 70th . I have been meaning to go over to the island to see all Jim parts for last 25years but something always comes up . I will make sure I do it this time. [smilebigeye]

1950landy

17th April 2018, 07:34 AM

I was going through some photo's & found some early photo's of Landy .
139221 Landy's first outing with the Rover Car Club on the back of a Datson Homer. The two good looking girls also belong to me , the oldest one is over 40 now. :oops2: Will probably get into trouble for telling you that . [biggrin] 139222 Bulkhead I picked up from Land Rover Land ( now British Off Road) after picking Landy up from Keith's.
139223139224139225139226 Club display I did a few years back at All British Day. 139232 My display at Arthur Goddard Day a couple of years ago.
These two were other !950 80"'s I had , booth have been sold on.
139227 I took the side plate Holden out of this one & fitted a LR 2 1/4 lit. 139228 This one had duel wheels on the rear & the chassis had been extended a meter behind the cab , it had a 12mm thick steel tray . It was owned by a logging company . when it was too wet to get the trucks to the logs they would put them on the LR & take the logs to the trucks .

1950landy

2nd May 2018, 01:02 PM

Had a couple of hours to spare today so decided to fit the new carby my wife bought me for my birthday back in January. ( Well i bought it & she warped it up & gave it to me, got what I wanted for my Birthday)

139813139814139815The vacuum attaches in a different position to the original carby but put another coil in copper tube & it soon fitted.[biggrin] Started motor & runs like a bird.

Also bought some body filler for aluminum to fill some dents in the R/H door , the last time i used common garden variety filler & it caused white powder corrosion under the paint.
I had the door glass blasted & applied some filler .

139816 I am trying not to fill over the spot welds so am only doing a small area at a time & if I do cover a weld i am using the runner tip of a pencil to smug the weld marks into the filler.

139817 Second coat of filler just need to sand flat then apply etch primer & lite coat of spray putty .

1950landy

4th May 2018, 03:09 PM

Not much Land Rover work today , just sanded body filler , two coats of etch primer then two coats of spray putty. Will apply a couple more coats of spray putty tomorrow & sand it .

139870139871

1950landy

7th May 2018, 11:59 AM

Booth doors are now prepped & primed , so will only need a light sand in the morning & hopefully ( IF IT IS NOT RAINING ) will get the top coat on.139925139926139927

1950landy

8th May 2018, 03:55 PM

The a started off good , gave the doors a lite sand & mixed up some Deep Bronze Green & sprayed the two doors. 139993139994

Then up to the workshop to run a bit more thread down on the new bolts I bought for the bulkhead to chassis mount. also drilled out a couple of large washers to use as packers on the gear box mounts so I could centralize the gear leaver in the tunnel. I was having trouble getting the boot in. By the time I fitted the packers & boot the doors were dry so decided to fit the capping's.
I fitted the capping on the R/H door with out any problem.:thumbsup:
139996139997

THIS IS WERE EVERY THING STARTED GOING WRONG :thumbsdown:.
To start with I had ordered s full set of domed alum rivets from the UK way back & i now find I am 8 rivets short, Grrrrrrrrrr. Then while fitting the the pop rivets the filler I used on the door cracked ( I must have used too much hardener ) 139998

I am not sure which is the best way to fix it , take the capping off , remove all the paint & start again or try to fix it with the capping in place.:wallbash:

So I have given up for the day now & see what tomorrow brings.

JDNSW

8th May 2018, 07:15 PM

Oh dear!

1950landy

9th May 2018, 06:31 AM

Oh dear!

Thats what I said but there were a lot more words said that I can not print on here.:BigCry:

1950landy

9th May 2018, 02:12 PM

I removed the capping this morning & dug out the filler 140015 I found were the filler had cracked there was a dish in the door skin so when the pop rivets pulled up tight it caused the filler to crack. :thumbsdown:
I had a think about it & decided to drill a 1/2" hole in the box behind each of the offending rivet holes. 140016 Then I placed the door skin down on a block of wood I used a drift to knock the skin down flat140017 then sanded the remaining filler off & mixed up some more filler. 140018 I will leave it until Friday to sand the new filler back & prepping ready for top coat.
I hope once capping is back on the holes will be hiden. May put some rubber plugs in them

klonk

9th May 2018, 09:49 PM

If you need more solid rivets Let me know. Im sure I have a few to spare

1950landy

9th May 2018, 10:03 PM

If you need more solid rivets Let me know. Im sure I have a few to spare
Thanks, Bolt Masters in Brisbane sell solid rivets I bought some off them when I did my door tops about 5 years ago , I will give them a try 1st. I also have some here but the shaft is about 1/2" long & they have gone hard but I think if I cut them down to length the rivet I made will squash them.
I am also going to try pop rivets that are longer so they don't have as much grip .

1950landy

12th May 2018, 03:15 PM

Wind had drooped a little this morning , so gave the door its new top coat before going to watch grand son playing AFL. Then off to Clark Rubber to buy some rubber for the doors & tub.
140099140100 Also painted the clamping strips for the door rubbers. After lunch I cut the rubber I am going to fit to the floor of the tub . 140101 I am not sure weather to glue the rubber down or use some alum flat around the edges painted black . I will cut the rubber were the spare tire fits after iI have secured it. I am leaning towards using the alum flat that way if I need to replace it at any stage or go back to painted finish it will be easier.
I also re fitted the rubber blocks on the bonnet for the spare tire 140102 The bonnet is a bit busty from sanding the filler on the door. These blocks are secured with screws & nuts so applied thread lock to the screws. A friend of mine the nuts vibrated off his & fell down beside the spark plug. When he pulled the plugs out it fell into the motor & he didn't realize . When he started the motor he had a rattle & after removing the head & damaged piston he found the nut crushed the ring grove . [bigsad]We managed to get the the ring out with out braking it , machined the grove refitted the rings & all was good.[smilebigeye]

Late this afternoon I refitted the galv capping & used the longer pop rivets to secure it. 140103 & all is good no cracking:banana:I need to go & get my larger pop rivet gun from the workshop before fitting the door seals then I will bolt the doors back on & fit the alum Solid rivets in the top of the capping it will be easier. Mothers day tomorrow so no LR work until Monday but that will give the paint a good chance to harden.

1950landy

15th May 2018, 04:40 PM

Has not been a very productive day , I wrote a list of small jobs to do . The 1st job was to cut some rubber sheet to put on floor of tool box then put all the tools back into the box. 140216
Next was off to Trade Tools to buy a larger Pop Rivet gun as the two i have are not larger enough , all they had was the same as I already have,:thumbsdown: Then of to the bolt Co to get a 30 1/4" BSF bolts & nuts , nill in stock , I bought all they had 9 months ago, they could order some in but I will have to buy 100 @ $180 each, NO THANKS.:thumbsdown: Off to other bolt Co I have bought from , same answer. :thumbsdown: Now I am off to Bunnings to get 1/2 met of sheet rubber to make some floor mats , none in stock , will be in in 2 weeks. :thumbsdown: Next stop was to get a price to replace the sliding joint on my front prop shaft. OMG $400 I think it can go back in as is , it is not vibrating that much.
Depressed I head home only to find I had miss placed my phone , so retraced my steps until i found it. It didn't matter about the phone I was getting a new one tomorrow but I would have lost all the contact numbers & photo's stored in it. On the way home again I decided to call into my old business & borrow one off them , I spent about 1/2hr looking in all the tool cages with out success . The foreman said that it may have been dumped . :thumbsdown:
On getting home I etched primed some alum flat bar to use as clamping plated for the rubber mat I put in the tub. Then looked through all the old bolts I had dis guarded when I pulled Landy apart. I managed to find 16 in usable condition just enough to bolt the doors back on. :thumbsup: I cleaned them up , primed them & when dry sprayed them silver. After they dryed i bolted the doors back on.
140218140219 Won't get much done tomorrow , off to buy a new phone ,, my old one is starting to give me the poo's & still have to find Pop rivet gun to pull the large rivets .

:wallbash: SOME DAYS IT IS NOT WORTH GETTING OUT OF BED :wallbash:

1950landy

17th May 2018, 03:23 PM

Little bit of work done this afternoon. !st job was to refit the lap sash seat belts , ( not approved but better than none at all.140301

2nd job was to fit some sealing rubbers on the doors140302140303

3rd job was to give Landy a wash, forgot to take photo . :wallbash:
I am hoping to take her to National Motoring Heritage Day Picnic In Queens Park Ipswich on Sunday so started setting up a display A board 140304140305 I will see what photo's I have that I can put on the top of the board in the last photo.

Will take her for a run tomorrow afternoon & get some fuel & pump up the tires. Will also need to adjust the timing as I have had the distributor out when I painted the motor & the way the motor is turning over sounds like it is too far advanced. [bigsad]

1950landy

19th May 2018, 07:08 AM

I took Landy for a run yesterday afternoon , she is running sweet . With the new carby seams to have more power & running smoother .:BigThumb: There still seams to be a problem with the gear box , when I pull it into 2nd gear there is a grating noise , not the usual noise noise it is after the gear has been selected & if I pull back on the gear leaver while driving it makes the same noise . :thumbsdown: Does any one have any Ideas? It is as though two gears are just touching when the leaver is pulled all the way back. [bighmmm]

140356140357140358

JDNSW

19th May 2018, 07:28 AM

First/second or (more likely) reverse fork not clamped tightly on the selector shaft? Or (unlikely) bent.

1950landy

19th May 2018, 01:38 PM

First/second or (more likely) reverse fork not clamped tightly on the selector shaft? Or (unlikely) bent.

I was just looking at the work shop manual I may need to addust the 2nd speed stop. That will need the floor pulling out again , should be able to adjust it through the plate on the gear box top just behind the oil filler. BUGGER

1950landy

22nd May 2018, 07:12 AM

Well Landy got me to the car show at Ipswich on Sunday with out any major issue's , here are some photo's

Landy 140477 My BMW 323i e30 140478 Rover P3 140479140480 A 57 88" S1 140481 Rpver P4 140482

There were 5 Rover P6B's most the same color 140483 All those cars belonged to Rover Car Club Members .

There was this modified FJ sedan ( not to my liking thought it was quite ugly ) 140484140485140486140487

These were better Holden 140488140489 Then there were some Fords 140490140491140492140493140494 Some BMC / Morris products 140495140496

1950landy

22nd May 2018, 07:24 AM

A couple more photo's 140497140498140499140500

The numbers were down on previous years but it was a good day & a good run for Landy her 1st run for almost 2 years . There were other cars that did nor interest me so I didn't bother taking photo's of them. Now have to fix a couple of small issues on Landy before her next run the Samford Show in July were I will set up my pump display to show what a Land Rover can do.
140501

JDNSW

22nd May 2018, 03:17 PM

I'm pretty sure that the one with "Austin" emblazoned across the radiator was made about twenty years before Morris had anything to do with Austin except as a competitor!

1950landy

30th May 2018, 09:22 AM

Does any one know were in Australia I can buy black painted 5" round side mirrors for Landy. I want metal ones NOT PLASTIC as every one is selling as genuine S1 guard mirrors. The plastic ones will not pivot on the ball & if you can get then so they adjust they keep falling down& when I tighten them they go out of adjustment. The other problem I have found with the plastic ones if some one walks into them at a car show the back brakes out of them. I am sick of buying the plastic ones , think I have bought 6 so far. I found some in the US but I would need to sell Landy to pay for the freight.
Any help would be appreciated .
Wayne

1950landy

15th June 2018, 09:51 AM

As I said I ordered some mirror heads from the US . I picked them up from the post office this morning .
141263141264
These have a metal body & adjusting screws on the ball so should work better than the plastic ones that people are selling as genuine LR ones. :thumbsup:
Just need to work out the best way to attach them to the arms.[bighmmm]

1950landy

15th June 2018, 03:08 PM

Last week wife & I did a trip to Gunnedah for this years North West Rally on the NSW Long Week End. We visited the Gunnedah Rural Meseuem & saw this little beauty I set the trip meter in our 1984 BMW 323i e30 before leaving home & the reading for the round trip plus the rally run on the Sunday was just over 1800km . We also collected the longest distance travelled trophy for our effort as we were the only car from the Qld Rover Club to do the trip to the rally this year.
141273141274141275141276 This was a very straight & original 88" S1 & seamed to be complete except for one of the pork pie lights was missing. The seats were laying in the back tray. When I was walking around the museum I came across a table with parts & tools for sale / make an offer & in the middle was a pork pie light . I was going to make an offer on the light but thought it needed to stay with the vehicle it belonged to , so I told one of the volunteers at the museum it needed putting back on the LR.

A couple of more photo's from the museum141277 141278141279These last two photo's were taken from in the main shed it was raining quite heavy in fact the first rain they had had for a while.

1950landy

15th June 2018, 03:24 PM

Afew of the cars that attended the rally. out side the Royal Hotel Tambar Springs were we had morning tea.
141280141281141282141283141284141285

1950landy

15th June 2018, 03:33 PM

A few more cars
141287141288141289 I had some more photo's but was using my new phone that I had just bought the day before I left & I accidently deleted them. Grrrrrrr
After morning tea it was off to the Spring Ridge Hotel for lunch . The Sunday drive was 200k's

Also a couple of photo's from out trip home 141290 It was -2 in Glen Innis on the Tuesday morning these photo's were taken around 9am after a couple hours if sun on the BMW 141291141292141293
Hope to get a couple of small jobs done on Landy tomorrow.

1950landy

16th June 2018, 02:08 PM

A couple of small jobs done today.
1st was to fit the anchor plate to the brake linkage ( supplied by 123rover50 Thanks Keith) for the brake light switch spring. Mine was missing & trying to get the switch to work proply has always been a chore . 141311
The 2nd job was to fit the new mirror heads to the arms . So off to Supercheap to get some electrical cable saddles to use as clamps on the arms. 141312141313
141314141315141316 I have fitted the arms down so the trafficators will clear the mirror heads. :thumbsup:
I don't know why it has turned the photo's they were the correct way up on my computer :(

The 3rd job was to fit an overflow pipe on the radiator ( forgot to take a photo :oops2:) I have used clear plastic tube at the moment because that's all I had , will replace it with black when I can find some suitable.

101RRS

16th June 2018, 04:38 PM

Dont worry about that job - when you going to restore my 88 station wagon for me [biggrin]

141326

Garry

1950landy

16th June 2018, 04:42 PM

Dont worry about that job - when you going to restore my 88 station wagon for me [biggrin]

141326

Garry

Bit far for me to travel each day to do the job.

101RRS

16th June 2018, 04:58 PM

I can deliver [bigsmile1] and pick up when it is done [thumbsupbig]

1950landy

16th June 2018, 07:02 PM

I can deliver [bigsmile1] and pick up when it is done [thumbsupbig]
My wife would be happy about that. She is always asking me when I am going to finish . I keep telling her if she stops giving me things to do I will get it finished.

1950landy

17th June 2018, 02:19 PM

Photo of radiator over flow tube I fitted yesterday 141334141335

I have not done much today it is miserable in the garage today with the cold winds blowing up from the southern states , I have been trying to work out why when I push the transfer leaver towards high range it doesn't always fully engage . :thumbsdown: I think I have worked out what is going on but I need to work out how to fix it. What I have found is the peak of the nut on the end of the selector shaft that's holds the link for the selector that the leaver ball fits into is hitting on the pivot for the freewheel control stopping the leaver from moving completely forward. I may have to pull the leaver back out & see if I can get rid of some of the wear in the linkages . I may have to build up the end of the pivot were it pushes on the end of the shaft so the nut doesn't hit 1st. That will be a good for tomorrow if the wind dies down , don't feel like crawling around on the cold cement floor in the wind today anyway plus my rechargeable light has gone flat & it is hard to see. ( Is that a good enough excuse [biggrin]) We will see what tomorrow brings.

1950landy

19th June 2018, 03:56 PM

A couple of small jobs today.
1st was to re wire the trafficators so the R/H one comes on when the switch is switched to the R/H side & vice verser .141385141386141387

Can any one tell me why when I put the photo's on here the photo's get turned on there side :thumbsdown:, has just started doing it the last few days.

Also refitted the R/H floor after fixing the stop light switch & transfer leaver linkages.

I also striped the old paint off the wind screen wiper motor , etch primed , primed & top coated it in black.

I also fitted all the missing bolts from around the body after the bolt co some more bolts to finish the job.

I have also been looking at what I can do with the rubber hose between the carby & air filter . As I said earlier I have not been able to find a supplier for the round to oval hose except for one in the UK who has one & wants an arm & a leg to supply & post.:thumbsdown: I have a friend who bought a couple when he was last in the UK & he is going to send me one , hopefully it is the correct one .

There is not a lot more to do to Landy now but all these little jobs seam to take up a heap of time.[bighmmm]
I was also going through my parts today & found this Rover Gauge , Water Temp / Oil Pressure , if I can find some were to mount it that doesn't look out of place I will take it to Otto's Instruments & get it cleaned & checked & a capillary tube fitted to the Water Temp gauge. 141388

JDNSW

20th June 2018, 08:07 AM

These gauges were an option, fitted as standard to Australian 2a diesels. They were usually fitted in an extra panel to the right of the instrument panel - rounded edges like the instrument panel if the dealer used the factory option, but more commonly in a simple flat bit of aluminium.

1950landy

20th June 2018, 08:33 AM

They also fitted some Rover cars . My 80" has the ovel dash & I don't want to cut holes in it . There is not a lot of room left on the bulk head to mount the gauges what with the heater & demister hoses . I also have an oil level float & twin gauge out of a P3 Rover some were , I will have a look & see if I have room to fit booth the gauges .[biggrin]

1950landy

24th June 2018, 01:42 PM

Took a nother brake from Landy this weekend to go to Two Days Of Thunder at Qld Raceway.
141558141559141560 Brake fire . 141561141562141563

1950landy

24th June 2018, 01:53 PM

141564141565141566141567141568141569

Car 88 belonged to Glen Seton & his son & driven by his son being instructed by glen from the pit lane it was the quickest Trans Am there on the weekend finished every race the length of the straight in front of second place getter.

Glen is standing behind the vehicle on the left. The BMW 2002 Ti is my brothers .

1950landy

24th June 2018, 01:58 PM

A couple didn't fair too well .141571141572141573
Then there was the nice & not so nice 141574141575

1950landy

24th June 2018, 02:10 PM

Grupe N cars waiting for them to clean up the mess from the Trans Am cars. 141576141577141578
Another that was in the same incident as the other two 141579 Had damage to front guard , door & sill It also had a mechanical issue as came back to pits on tilt tray & didn't go back out for later races. THERE WAS NO DRIVER INJURED IN THIS INCIDENT.[biggrin]
Some more fine machines 141580141581

It was too hard getting any action on the track just using my phone.

1950landy

25th June 2018, 03:04 PM

After Mowing , washing the pavers & cleaning windows Ect today, it is my wife's turn to have Bitch & Stich ( she 's a quilter) I got a couple of jobs done late this after noon.
!st was to finish the door seals 141618 they are not the correct ones but look good enough . I will buy the correct ones next time I order something from Craddocks. Al so painted the rivet on the backing strips
2nd job was to put the penny back on the R/H front guard were the brace attaches to the guard 141619 I fitted a fibre washer behind the penny to stop corrosion .

1950landy

28th June 2018, 03:57 PM

I picked up the new air cleaner hose my mate sent me from post office today. 141695 it was to replace this 141696 there was a tare on booth sides if the convolute , I suppose only to be expected after 68 years. 141697 looks like I need to fix up the paint on the carby horn.

Also refitted the latches on the seat box lids. 141698141699 looks like I need to fix up the paint on the front of the seat box , the scratches are were I removed the floor to repair the gear selector problem I had. Grrrrrrr.

I think I only now need to fit the front prop shaft then go through every thing to see if I have missed anything or left any bolts out or loose then I should be finished. Just in time to take Landy to Samford Show on the 14th - 15th of July. May have a look at my water pump & see if it needs tarting up as I want to take my pump display this year to celebrate the LR 70th. Two days running the PTO pumping water sure glazes up the bores , but a good hard drive home soon de glazes it.[biggrin] 141701

THIS SIMBLE IS FROM MY WIFE :banana:

1950landy

30th June 2018, 03:53 PM

I have hade the governor fitted to Landy a few years now but have never fitted the connecting rods , was wondering if anyone knows the length of the Governor opporating rod , I never got one when I bought it.
141747 HELP NEEDED . It is no 15 in the drawing. I have the Collapsible control rod that runs from the carby to the governor & have fitted it . I have some throttle linkages but they are too short but I recon I could shorten one & weld 2 together but I need the correct length. I also need one ball joint for the end If anyone has one they want to sell. 141748 141749 That is the ball connector that I am after , I have plenty of them but they all have a smaller rod dia than the one I need.
Any help will be appreciated the rod length is what I need most as I may be able to increase the thread size in the connector or reduce the thread size on the rod to use what I have.

1950landy

30th June 2018, 03:58 PM

I also cut the side out of an old rusted fuel tank today & am gluing it to the side of the home made fuel tank that is fitted to Landy. 141750Will leave the wedges in for a few days before sealing around the edge than painting. At east it looks correct now. [biggrin]
Fitted the front prop shaft 141751

While checking a few things found the oil light was not coming on when ignition turned on so pulled out the switch & tested it with an OME meter & it has died . May see if I can get it under warranty its only 68 years old think I should have got at least 70 years out of it. :lol2: I know I have a couple of them in amongst my parts but I bet I can't find one. Will just have to fit one from Repco until I can get one that looks correct.[bigsad]

klonk

1st July 2018, 11:21 PM

While checking a few things found the oil light was not coming on when ignition turned on so pulled out the switch & tested it with an OME meter & it has died . May see if I can get it under warranty its only 68 years old think I should have got at least 70 years out of it. :lol2: I know I have a couple of them in amongst my parts but I bet I can't find one. Will just have to fit one from Repco until I can get one that looks correct.[bigsad]

Hi Wayne
Good luck at repco. The problem is finding a switch with bsf thread that comes on at 12psi for the 1600 engines. My one leaked. I used one off a later model but it comes on at 20 odd psi and this makes me nervous at idle when hot. Lucky I have a guage to double check but would love to stop the light coming on so early.

cheers steve

1950landy

2nd July 2018, 06:07 AM

Thanks Steve, I found one over seas for around $60 delivered but I need it in next couple of weeks for when I am running the pump at Samford Show . I think I remember seeing a s/h one in my pares stock . Here's hoping or may have to set up tempory gauge for now untill I can get the duel gauge repaired.

1950landy

3rd July 2018, 02:56 PM

I rang British Off Road today about the oil light switch , they tell me they have one that will do the job off a S2 but the nut is around 25mm so have ordered it & hope I can tilt the banjo fitting enough so it will fit , it should get me out of trouble . I have also ordered the one from OS to replace it so I will have the correct one . 141871

Also today I painted the fuel tank black 141863 then went to the workshop to make the rod I was missing for the governor. 141864141865 I joined two throttle linkages & also welded a piece in the middle I then headed home to fit it on Landy. Bugger I had the throttle leaver in the full throttle position when I took the measurement & the length was wrong. :wallbash: 141866 So back the the workshop with the correct measurement , cut a section out of the middle & rewelded it 141867 While I was at the workshop I had a look through our old brass fittings to see if there were any with 3/8"BSF parallel thread to use to fit a oil gauge but out all these fittings not one :thumbsdown: .141868141869 then back home to fit the rod on the governor. 141870 I also needed to move the breather pipe that comes off the side of the block as it was in the way of the rod & also fitted a new breather hose to the rear of the top tappet cover . I also found I may have a S1 2lit hand throttle as it the leaver under the bonnet hits on the breather housing on the back of the tappet cover so I can not put the leaver in the full off position on the quadrant. with the demister ducting you can't see that it is not fully off so am happy with that until I can find the correct one. [biggrin]
Computer is still rolling photo's on there side when I up load them , must take it & get it fixed.

1950landy

4th July 2018, 04:13 PM

Went tp post office this morning & the oil light switch I ordered from British Off Road lunch time yesterday was there , I had asked it to be sent express post but did not expect it until tomorrow. Just shows AP can do it if they try.
I made up a short wire with an eye terminal one end & push on the other so when the correct switch turns up from Cyprus I can use the original terminal that is fitted to my new wiring harness .

I then tried to screw in the switch not an easy job tucked away behind but just above the starter motor with out dropping the alum sealing washer. I tried for about 15 minutes with out success , then tried the old switch which went straight in. I compared the threads on the two switches , then correct one has a 3/8"BSF thread 20 threads to the inch the new one had 3/8" 20 threads to the inch but I think it was a BSP thread. I run a BSF die down the thread & the switch screwed in first go. So the S2 switch will not fit on a 1595 cc motor with out cutting a new thread [bigsad] After tightening every thing up I turned on the key , I have light![biggrin] I then started the motor to check for leaks , all good :thumbsup: Once the I pushed the choke in on came the light so as Steve said the replacement switch is set to come on at a higher oil pressure than the original . My motor idles at under 500RPM were this switch it needs to idle around 800RPM. :thumbsdown: I will buy some BSF fittings so I can hook up a pressure gauge next week encase I need to adjust the oil pressure . 141904141905

Steve thanks for the heads up about the replacement switches other wise I would have been in a panic about no pressure on idle.

klonk

4th July 2018, 08:37 PM

1950landy

5th July 2018, 04:00 PM

Had a day away from Landy today , went to Qld Raceway for Gear Day. There were some nice early cars there .
14194814194914195014195114195214195314195414195514 1956141957

Looks like I need to take photo's with my phone with it laying on its side so the cars aren't on there side. [bighmmm]

1950landy

5th July 2018, 04:16 PM

A few more .141958141959 there were a few more open wheelers there but that was the best of them .

AND some days you shouldn't get out of bed. 141960141961 ripped the L/H front suspension out after hitting the wall in the main straight , you can see the lower control arms facing forward .
141962 My brother took my grand son for a spin around the back of the pits trying to dislodge all the gravel out of the BMW after hitting some oil just before the last corner coming on to the straight .141963141965 That made his day. [biggrin]:banana:

Hope fully my wife won't have anything for me to do so I can go on the hunt for some fittings so I can fit an oil gauge to Landy.

1950landy

6th July 2018, 03:56 PM

Wasn't a very prodective day , drove all around brisbane looking for 3/8"BSF fittings to fit the oil gauge & every were I went this was the reaction. :Rolling:
I did manage to buy a T piece & have changed the male thread to BSF & one of the female threads to BSF . I have left the BSP thread in the side & have bought a threaded barb & some high pressure reinforced hose compatible with oil to use as a flexible hose between the T piece & copper line going to the gauge . Nobody could supply me with a bracket to take a single gauge they all had double & triple .:wallbash: Also nobody had stock of 3/8 copper or alum washers but all could order them in & should be in Monday PM. :wallbash:
I will go to the workshop tomorrow I am 99% sure there is a single there with a temp gauge in it.
Also in my travels called into Otto Instruments with one of the gauges & cot a cost to fit a new capillary tube to it . Quote was $175 with out doing anything else to the gauge which I want to leave as is , I like the old look about it.[biggrin]
So once I have all the fittings sorted I will take the gauge & get it repaired. I will fit the other gauge for now so I know what the oil pressure is a Samford. And that's been my day but do feel I have taken one step forward. [bighmmm]

I think it would be easier to find parts in a small country town than in Brisbane. [bigwhistle] Photo's to come once I have got all the bits together.