View Full Version : Portable tyre changers ?
superquag
28th September 2016, 07:17 PM
Subject of a discussion recently, on the value of taking a tyre-changer gadget on long outback ventures...rather than a couple of spare wheels, - the theory being that a naked tyre weighs a lot less than a rim/tyre, especially if it's a steel one. Being lighter, it can be carried on the roof without raising the centre of mass (less rolling moment) And it should be easier to operate for us more Senior Gentlemen than a couple of tyre irons plus hammer. :wasntme:
Something like this ? SCA Tyre Changer, Portable - Supercheap Auto (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/SCA-Tyre-Changer-Portable/345858?utm_source=Criteo&utm_medium=Retargeting&utm_campaign=Retargeting)
Thoughts & comments welcome.
LandyAndy
28th September 2016, 07:38 PM
I doubt you will get a Land Rover alloy to play the game.Every time Ive had a D2 or Defender Xtreme alloy changed the tyre shop machine struggles.Mr Beaurepairs say the euro alloys have a much stronger bead retention.My last D2 rim had to go out to the truck bay to get released,the car tyre one wouldn't budge it.Yet to see how a D4 rim or GOE 18" rim goes.
Andrew
Blknight.aus
28th September 2016, 07:48 PM
you can do them with tyre pliers.
but they fight.
the tray mount hand turn ones struggle but should be able to do it again, you need the muscles.
Lube helps. If I dont have proper tyre lube I use hand soap. The best stuff Ive found is the el cheapo plain white soap thats about 6 bars for $1.50 from woolies make a paste from it and brush it on.
hand soap in the pump bottles and conditioner works well as well.
V8Ian
28th September 2016, 07:57 PM
That item is a copy of the old ironman tyre changer, all tyre shops had them until tyre fitters got sooky and demanded Coates 20/20 pneumatic machines.
The theory and design works extremely well, my only concern is the gulf between Supercheap / China's definition of heavy duty and mine.
I'd like to see how they anchor it to the ground, if as they say, it is portable.
V8Ian
28th September 2016, 08:07 PM
As Andy has said, European wheels are notoriously hard to break the bead.
Use plenty of lube, Dave's all over that.
Wooden wedges and a hammer work quite well, a slide hammer and stamina augment the wedges nicely.
If you intend changing four tyres with this primitive method, factor in half a carton of stubbies.
dero
28th September 2016, 08:32 PM
I find the R&r bead breaker kit easy to use
LandyAndy
28th September 2016, 08:39 PM
I find the R&r bead breaker kit easy to use
Good to hear of an easy kit to use.
WHICH wheels/tyre size is it easy to use on???
Steel wheels are a walk in the park.Later Landy alloys are a pig to remove tyres from.
Andrew
LandyAndy
28th September 2016, 08:40 PM
As Andy has said, European wheels are notoriously hard to break the bead.
Use plenty of lube, Dave's all over that.
Wooden wedges and a hammer work quite well, a slide hammer and stamina augment the wedges nicely.
If you intend changing four tyres with this primitive method, factor in half a carton of stubbies.
Per wheel and a day each?????
Andrew
dero
28th September 2016, 10:06 PM
I have never used it on alloys .
It does seem to give a good mech advantage , it may well work .
86mud
29th September 2016, 08:17 AM
see this thread for more info.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/240566-changing-tyres-while-bush.html
POD
29th September 2016, 08:55 AM
I've had the R&R Beadbreaker since just after they came on the market. They struggle with the European alloys due to the bead-retaining ridge- unless you put the rim in a lathe and take the ridge off ;)
I had to make an adaptor for LR rims but I think the later ones have this covered.
They are slow to use because of the screw mechanism as opposed to a lever, but less effort for the same reason and don't need to be mounted to anything.
DoubleChevron
29th September 2016, 08:49 PM
I rekcon those manual bead breakers would be a waste of time these days. I have wheels with old michelin tires on them here that I can't break the bead on. I have a pneumatic bead breaker.. it pancakes the tire .... peals it down the rim, but can't get it over the safety land. I then get a very big heavy sledge hammer and some soft pine and beat the living **** out of the bead around the area it's twisted over and pancaked. Usually You'll get an inch over the safety land ... But you release the pressure in the bead breaker to rotate the wheel sightly .... and the damn tire pulls itself back over the safety land and seats itself (VERY) firmly back onto the rim.
It's a waste of time.... I just can't do the michelin tires, especailly once they have some age into them. I'm talking 185 80 profile tires too ... on metal rims. Nothing fancy low profile on alloys!
seeya
Shane L.
Blknight.aus
29th September 2016, 09:42 PM
Lube, you're missing the lube.
it'll take a bit but while youve got the bead folded down tooth brush the lube as a paste under the lip and then inch around and take another bite, it might take you 10-30 loops but it will go.
123rover50
30th September 2016, 05:03 AM
Yes lots of lube.
I use Lux flakes and water. It makes heaps. Good for refitting tubeless as can make it thick and plaster around the bead to stop the air coming out.
Keith
POD
30th September 2016, 08:46 AM
For lube, I grated a couple of bars of laundry soap with the cheese grater from the kitchen and bunged them into a plastic jar (plastic jars don't shatter!). It lives in the bag with the beadbreaker, cheap paintbrush lives in a zip-lock bag in there too. When I use it, I put a few drops of water in and apply with the paintbrush. The soap has formed itself back into a solid lump inside the jar with a hollow in the middle from use. It works a treat.
rangieman
30th September 2016, 11:35 AM
I've had the R&R Beadbreaker since just after they came on the market. They struggle with the European alloys due to the bead-retaining ridge- unless you put the rim in a lathe and take the ridge off ;)
I had to make an adaptor for LR rims but I think the later ones have this covered.
They are slow to use because of the screw mechanism as opposed to a lever, but less effort for the same reason and don't need to be mounted to anything.
I also have a few years old R&R it worked fantastic on standard LR steel rim`s and after market steel rim`s .
I have tried on D2 alloy rims no good it does need some sort adaptor which i did`nt worry about just packed it up and buried in the shed for a rainy day project.
Also in a pinch i have used wd40 for lube (read in a pinch)
Plus i cant see using the D2 as a remote tour jalopy :angel:
crash
30th September 2016, 03:32 PM
I have successfully used Tyre Pliers on a D2 alloy rim.
ATH
30th September 2016, 07:34 PM
I bought an R&R Bead breaker back when I had a 300 Tdi Disco..... minimum of 15-18 years ago.
Got it from ARB Osborne Park on Russell Booths recommendation (RIP Russell)
And I've never used it! Got the soap etc. but no, never a puncture even.
I suppose saying that will definitely mean future trouble......:(
AlanH.
Bearman
30th September 2016, 07:48 PM
I bought an R&R Bead breaker back when I had a 300 Tdi Disco..... minimum of 15-18 years ago.
Got it from ARB Osborne Park on Russell Booths recommendation (RIP Russell)
And I've never used it! Got the soap etc. but no, never a puncture even.
I suppose saying that will definitely mean future trouble......:(
AlanH.
:D Yep it usually does!!!!
Blknight.aus
30th September 2016, 09:57 PM
I also have a few years old R&R it worked fantastic on standard LR steel rim`s and after market steel rim`s .
I have tried on D2 alloy rims no good it does need some sort adaptor which i did`nt worry about just packed it up and buried in the shed for a rainy day project.
Also in a pinch i have used wd40 for lube (read in a pinch)
Plus i cant see using the D2 as a remote tour jalopy :angel:
if you have the option in a pinch use inox over wd40 the lanolin base doesnt compromise the rubber so much and the bead wont degrade as quickly.
rangieman
30th September 2016, 10:21 PM
if you have the option in a pinch use inox over wd40 the lanolin base doesnt compromise the rubber so much and the bead wont degrade as quickly.
As i said read in a pinch and in that i meant the middle of nowhere with out any other substitute not that i say i recommend it but as a life saving situation ect;)
Blknight.aus
1st October 2016, 06:33 AM
As i said read in a pinch and in that i meant the middle of nowhere with out any other substitute not that i say i recommend it but as a life saving situation ect;)
no issue with that but assuming that someone other than me who carries wd40 and inox was reading the post....
If you really get desperate diesel works
B.S.F.
1st October 2016, 10:47 AM
I use vegetable oil ( Canola) as recommended by my tyre dealer with whom I've dealt with for about 30 years, but he has talked through his hat on a number of occasions.
.W.
Blknight.aus
1st October 2016, 12:04 PM
vege oil, not sure what that would do to syntetic rubbers but I know it makes a gooey mess out of the old mineral base stuff...
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