18 inch 3.0 wheels.

[scarry]

That all comes down to pad compound, and a small bit rotor hardness.
I have found a lot of Japanese steel to be harder than European steel, so that would extend rotor life.

"To be fair I've never looked at them in depth.
I do know the latest offerings still have more pedal force needed to stop than Euro gear so my gut feel is Harder metal and harder pad compound (organic not metallic)"

True,so why use the softer pads and rotors?

Maybe there is a European rule on pad compounds?

Harder pads and rotors would definitely reduce service costs,that is if the difference in performance is negligible.

[Tombie]

Soft compounds etc in colder climates bite better...

Perhaps they don't do multiple compounds.

On cold mornings here (2c etc) the Toyotas definitely had poor brake feel and needed a much harder push to pull up.

Get them wet and they took some energy.

I've never had this on the Euros...

Bite on a Euro is far better with a nicer feel to it..


I'm guessing it's the price we pay...

Brembo feel even nicer and wear inversely!

[scarry]

Thanks for replies,

I have noticed my D4 doesn't seem to stop any quicker than the loaded Jap work van i drive all day, in the dry.

Wet is a different story as one has the electronic aids,the other doesn't,although the new models do.

Feel,i recon they are very similar,the van bites maybe very slightly better.

The van will do 250 to 300k without needing any work on the brakes.

Then again it is not an auto,or a 4wd....

Actually i have just taken one out of service,to be replaced, and has done 280K,brakes never been touched.

A mate has a European van,does same sort of work as we do,needs brake overhaul every 120K.

It is much nicer to drive,but running costs are way more.

Just my observations,and 2cents worth;)

[Tombie]

Thanks. Agree... and it seems very different with different operators also.

My rear rotors and pads are untouched at 101k and will go a bit longer, fronts were changed just because I had slotted and Akebonos sitting here at 30k...

I run at close to GVM all the time and tow frequently..

Others who don't tow and it's just the D4 are having brakes at 20-40k intervals - I've never had to do this through necessity on any vehicles excluding my track car!

[discorevy]

Country cars brakes will last much longer for obvious reasons

[Tombie]

Country cars brakes will last much longer for obvious reasons



I live in a regional City... spoon drains and roundabouts galore, always on the brakes...

I also tow heavy loads regularly through winding passes etc...

Agree that highway miles don't chew consumables but I lived in a major city and never suffered excessive brake wear either...

Mum was worse - brakes smoothly and early, we had to swap her brake pads and have the discs machines yearly as she would glaze them over on her Toyotas...
Eventually we just had me drive it "Italian style" once a month!

[discorevy]

Likewise , I'll usually get over 100 000k out of brakes , if I was only getting 20 - 40 000 out of a set I'd be having a good look at my driving style, exceptions to this would be those that live and drive a lot on wet pindan tracks, when in Broome we used to look after the cape leveque Postie's troopie , when it was wet he'd get through a set of rear pads every couple of weeks , and he wasn't known for using brakes . that stuff is very abrasive
Might be worth a thread to see how many k's people are getting , but there are a lot of variables

[DIS4]

I am using cooper Zeon Ltz 275/45R29, just two damaged on side. I don't know if it is bad luck or quality issues. Seriously consider to put cooper Ltz 285/50R20, does it on Gordon 's calculation table?

[DIS4]

I am using cooper Zeon Ltz 275/45R29, just two damaged on side. I don't know if it is bad luck or quality issues. Seriously consider to put cooper Ltz 285/50R20, does it on Gordon 's calculation table?



275/46R20

[Tombie]

275/46R20



Try again [emoji12][emoji13]

[DIS4]

275/45R20

[Meccles]

I've just fitted 265/50 R20 nitto terra grapplers gp2 to my RRS. They replaced my Cooper Zeon LTZ 275/45 R20 after a trip to Fraser Is left me with one destroyed tyre (sidewall) and two with cracks in sidewall. But I suspect operator error too fast too hard too Low a pressure. The Nitto's are quieter, look good, and were pay for 3 get 4 at moment at Bob Jane. There is a thread on RRS at moment on this.

[Babs]

Yippee my GOE Rims just arrived.

[ozscott]

Nice

[Babs]

Ok. GOE Compomotives are on, accompanied by Cooper ST Maxx 265/65/18

117985

117986

Now I could be mistaken but I thought from looking at a set of these rims on another vehicle that there was less room between the inside of the rim and the brake calipers, I thought there was only enough room to put say folded paper.

On mine there looks like there is plenty of room, have they changed the brakes on the current model SDV6's [emoji780]

117987

117988


Here is a size comparison from the standard 255/55/19 size with the Maxxis Bravo's against the new Cooper ST Maxx 265/65/18

117989

[Babs]

The first photo is access height with the Llams extra access height selected.

Just drove it around the driveway on the extra low setting, I couldn't feel any rubbing seemed good but I could see where the dirt has been cleaned away from part of the chassis behind the front wheel. It's ever so slight it looks like as the tread will wear there will be zero contact. And this is the extra low Llams setting I'm talking about.
There doesn't seem to be any issues in normal access height.

The rear wheels seem totally fine in the Llams extra low access height.

I'm now restricted to 2M car parks, in saying that I wouldn't go into 1.9m car parks with the standard size as I was still slightly above the 1.9m height.

So even with rack on 2.0m heights are fine even with normal access height selected without activating the Llams extra low height.

[Babs]

Spare wheel did fit (deflated) took a bit of stuffing around to get it to fit but it's in nonetheless.

I am going to try and put at least 10psi of air back in the spare as I'm not comfortable with it being totally flat in the instance if I ever bottom out, I don't want dirt/crud getting into the bead. I might be overthinking this one but if I ever have the problem to change a wheel I don't want another problem with the spare.

This just means you have to carry a compressor, not a problem for me I have always had a compressor on board.

[Babs]

Oh and the centre caps don't fit, they are too small for the GOE rims.

I have sprayed my centre caps black and will try to modify them to fit.

Any suggestions on what others have done would be appreciated. Cheers [emoji106]

[ozscott]

They look good Babs. You wont know yourself. Back in business. Cheers

[Babs]

While I was at the tyre shop, they had a BFG KO2 on display and prior I had been contemplating trying these.

Being able to see the KO2 and the Cooper ST Maxx side by side not fitted to a rim, cemented that I had made the right decision. The KO2 was definitely a lot thinner in the sidewall and was very flexible in the sidewall compared to the ST Maxx.

The Coopers are more thicker and stiffer in the sidewall.

[ozscott]

From what I have read and heard the ST Max are Coopers best tyre by quite a margin. Cheers

[Graeme]

Being able to see the KO2 and the Cooper ST Maxx side by side not fitted to a rim, cemented that I had made the right decision. The KO2 was definitely a lot thinner in the sidewall and was very flexible in the sidewall compared to the ST Maxx.

The Coopers are more thicker and stiffer in the sidewall.Was the KO2 the same size?

[Babs]

No it was a different size, I didn't take much notice of the size, looked like a 16" or 17".
Regardless the thickness would still be the same throughout the KO2 range.

Gets back to the thickness of each ply.
BFG are 1,000 denier each ply, and they're a 3 ply tyre so thickness is 3,000 denier.

Cooper ST Maxx 1st ply is 2,000 denier 2nd ply is 2,000 denier and 3rd ply is 1,000 denier. So 3 plys with a total thickness of 5,000 denier.

[Graeme]

I would not assume that they all have the same sidewalls as none of the 15" flotation sizes (30x9.5 etc) are listed as LT although all other rims diameters appear to be LT. Several smaller 16" sizes and 2 17" sizes have quite a low load rating so aren't likely to have the same sidewalls either.

[Russrobe]

Keeping in mind though, a sharp enough bit of quartz or long enough railway spike will go straight through no matter what the thickness is.

Found that out in June, damn rock went straight through a Wrangler MT, in the centre of the tread too.

[Meccles]

When I discussed my Cooper tyre failures owner of tyre shop ( a Bob Jane Franchise) who is well respected locally told me he used to work for and sell Coopers. And that they had very stiff sidewalks. BUT comment was...if deflated and run at any speed the stiff sidewall gets very hot- which leads to cracking of sidewall and failure. Which is what occurred to mine. He commented that they had to replace a few new sets that failed in this manner. He advised to only run lower pressure if absolutely necessary, not go fast, and to re inflate as soon as conditions allowed, with hard sidewall tyres. I've now fitted TPMS the Bluetooth unit on sale at Autopro- works great and shows temperature as well which he reckoned was as if not more important than anything else

[Babs]

When I discussed my Cooper tyre failures owner of tyre shop ( a Bob Jane Franchise) who is well respected locally told me he used to work for and sell Coopers. And that they had very stiff sidewalks. BUT comment was...if deflated and run at any speed the stiff sidewall gets very hot- which leads to cracking of sidewall and failure. Which is what occurred to mine. He commented that they had to replace a few new sets that failed in this manner. He advised to only run lower pressure if absolutely necessary, not go fast, and to re inflate as soon as conditions allowed, with hard sidewall tyres. I've now fitted TPMS the Bluetooth unit on sale at Autopro- works great and shows temperature as well which he reckoned was as if not more important than anything else



Good feedback [emoji106]

[Babs]

What have people done to fit their centre caps on the GOE rims [emoji780]

[LRD414]

What have people done to fit their centre caps on the GOE rims [emoji780]

I know not very helpful to you but mine fitted to the GOE wheels perfectly. And I've only ever heard of people occasionally finding them too loose and needing a dab of silicon, so your situation is I think unusual.

Scott

[rar110]

I know not very helpful to you but mine fitted to the GOE wheels perfectly. And I've only ever heard of people occasionally finding them too loose and needing a dab of silicon, so your situation is I think unusual.

Scott



Same here.

[Babs]

Bugger. It had to be me. Mine actually fall right out, the clips at the back of the cap don't touch at all.

Looks like I'll have to go nuts with some Sika.

I think Supercheap sells Lebanese Tool Boxes. Every Lebanese builder/developer owns one. You get a tool box and in it you get Liquid Nails, Sikaflex and Duct Tape. Apparently that's all you need to build a block of units these days [emoji12]

[scarry]

And on the BFG front,i have run numerous sets for the last16yrs,all A/T's,and had the first puncture 6 months ago,a coach bolt through the tread.

Done numerous Cape trips,desert trips,etc,etc.

I actually don't carry two spares anymore,only a second carcase for remote area trips.

Tyres have done 55K so getting down.

Probably fell out of one of those builders utes.:mad:

Babs,it would be interesting to know what size and load rating the BFG was you looked at,also KM2 or KO2,as has been said,there are many in the A/T range which are not LT.
235/70/16 was one size,which is the OEM D2 16" size.The 245/70/16 was an LT and was the preferred option,diameter being almost identical to the 235.

The above was for the KO,the new KO2 maybe different.

[Meccles]

On the badge front my original center caps became a very loose fit on the genuine rims- so loose they would fall out. I just bent the plastic tabs outwards - they now fit tightly again. Maybe worth a try?

[Graeme]

Looks like I'll have to go nuts with some Sika. Just a couple of dabs of neutral cure silicone so that the caps can be easily removed for wheel balancing.

[Celtoid]

What have people done to fit their centre caps on the GOE rims [emoji780]



I'd read about this when I first got my GOEs but I never tried the OEM caps as they are the chrome ones which are all the same colour and I didn't want to fit those.


I purchased a set of original design caps from Ebay and they are tight as.

[Babs]

I'd read about this when I first got my GOEs but I never tried the OEM caps as they are the chrome ones which are all the same colour and I didn't want to fit those.


I purchased a set of original design caps from Ebay and they are tight as.



I never thought of that, I went and painted my originals black.

Do you have a link or description of the ones you got off eBay [emoji780] cheers.

[laughto]

I never thought of that, I went and painted my originals black.

Do you have a link or description of the ones you got off eBay [emoji780] cheers.

Try these - you will find plenty of others as well - 4 X Black Chrome Wheel Center Cap Hub Caps For Land Rover LR2-LR3-LR4 | eBay (http://ebay.to/2iUV4dO)

Cannot find the seller I got mine from, although they were for OEM wheels.

[Celtoid]

I never thought of that, I went and painted my originals black.

Do you have a link or description of the ones you got off eBay [emoji780] cheers.


Sorry Babs it was 5 years plus ago. I just looked up LR D4 wheel caps. If I remember rightly there were quite a few options.


Thinking back now, this was D4 number one so I had the original designed wheel caps (silver background with the green oval with silver writing) which were loose on the GOE rims. I think it was mentioned on this forum that aftermarket ones are tighter. Those memory banks are obviously partially overwritten now ... LOL!!!


They were so inexpensive I think I just gave it a punt ... and I had to apply a bit of pressure to get them in. I just leave them fitted to the GOEs.


Cheers,


Kev.

[BMKal]

Some nice black wheel centre caps here for only US$10........................................ :wasntme:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/302180563266?lpid=107&chn=ps

[Babs]

Some nice black wheel centre caps here for only US$10........................................ :wasntme:



http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/302180563266?lpid=107&chn=ps



Ya Cheeky Bugger [emoji3]

[Narangga]

Some nice black wheel centre caps here for only US$10........................................ :wasntme:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/302180563266?lpid=107&chn=ps


Ya Cheeky Bugger [emoji3]

Shouldn't it be - Ya Jeepy Bugger... :wasntme:

[Stuart02]

Bugger. It had to be me. Mine actually fall right out, the clips at the back of the cap don't touch at all.

Looks like I'll have to go nuts with some Sika.

I think Supercheap sells Lebanese Tool Boxes. Every Lebanese builder/developer owns one. You get a tool box and in it you get Liquid Nails, Sikaflex and Duct Tape. Apparently that's all you need to build a block of units these days [emoji12]
I just ran electrical tape around the clips - all not individually - to reduce the tolerance. No falling out centre caps since.

[LandyAndy]

I just ran electrical tape around the clips - all not individually - to reduce the tolerance. No falling out centre caps since.

I did similar,except I used plumbers Teflon tape.Works a treat and no sticky goo from the tape glue as it ages.
Andrew

[Babs]

Seen as I already went to the trouble of painting my centre caps I put a little effort in to make them fit.

Got my mini soldering gas torch and heated up each little lug and pushed them outwards (a little too enthusiastic) now has a tight fit, also put some of the thin clear double sided tape on the edges for added security.

[Babs]

Driving on these bigger tyres feels a little less bumpy.

And I don't have to worry about gutters anymore, I get to drive it like all my previous 4x4s.
It was getting a little frustrating having to be concerned about a gutter every time I parked, what's the point of having a 4WD if you have to be concerned about climbing or grazing a gutter.

[ozscott]

Mate there is no doubt at all that very low profile tyres just make life harder for suspension engineers, the vehicle and drivers. A higher profile tyre is a very useful part of the suspension. Air suspension notwithstanding. Cheers

[scarry]

Mate there is no doubt at all that very low profile tyres just make life harder for suspension engineers, the vehicle and drivers. A higher profile tyre is a very useful part of the suspension. Air suspension notwithstanding. Cheers

Tyre shops love them,they wear out quickly,are fragile,what more could they want?

[carlschmid2002]

Tyre shops love them,they wear out quickly,are fragile,what more could they want?

And for the premium brands they charge about $100 per tyre more per inch. That was the clincher for me ordering my GOE wheels. The 20" tyres cost $600 each. The 18" Hankooks on my D3 cost $250 a tyre. I intend to hang on to my D4 for at least another 150000 km so that will be 2-3 sets of tyres. I reckon the Pirelli 20" tyres on it would be lucky to last 50000. They are great in a wet bitumen road. Crap ride though compared to the D3.

[ozscott]

This is such a refreshing thread. Cheers

[letherm]

I don't need tyres yet but still like to be across the issue for when I do.

I tend to keep the spare as a spare only and just replace 4 tyres at a time when needed. Is it feasible to buy 4 GOE rims and keep the oem rim and tyre as a spare with the view that I would replace a busted tyre asap and the oem would resume duty as a spare. I presume that I would need to get tyres for the GOE rims that come close to the diameter of the oem tyres.

Thoughts gentlemen.

Martin

[Meccles]

When I changed tyres on my RRS they are now 44mm greater in overall height than OEM tyre. So factory spare would have caused a hissy fit with electronics if fitted. Tyre shop had a good Goodyear Wrangler of a D4 in shop 255/55 R19, which was very close in diameter to my 265/50 R20's.
Cost $75 and fits in wheel well no issue. Maybe something to consider.

[cjc_td5]

I don't need tyres yet but still like to be across the issue for when I do.

I tend to keep the spare as a spare only and just replace 4 tyres at a time when needed. Is it feasible to buy 4 GOE rims and keep the oem rim and tyre as a spare with the view that I would replace a busted tyre asap and the oem would resume duty as a spare. I presume that I would need to get tyres for the GOE rims that come close to the diameter of the oem tyres.

Thoughts gentlemen.

Martin

If you were going to go the 4x GOE wheels route, I would pick up a LR 18" wheel (or two) as your spares, so you could then use common tyres on all rims. The LR 18" wheel could only be used on the rear axle though (no different to using a 19" wheel as a spare). LR 18" wheels come up on Gumtree etc for around $100 each.

[carlschmid2002]

When I changed tyres on my RRS they are now 44mm greater in overall height than OEM tyre. So factory spare would have caused a hissy fit with electronics if fitted. Tyre shop had a good Goodyear Wrangler of a D4 in shop 255/55 R19, which was very close in diameter to my 265/50 R20's.
Cost $75 and fits in wheel well no issue. Maybe something to consider.

I have a Kaymar rack on my D3 so I have 6 18" wheels and tyres. The 20" rims and tyres will go on the D3 from the D4 and I will put 4 18 " wheels on the camper trailer (2 for spares) and two on the Kaymar rack once fitted to the D4. If I have a front flat I will have to take one of the GOE wheels off the back. For your spare issue there are plenty of D3 18" rims floating around. They just won't fit on the front.

[rar110]

255/55/19s & 255/60/18s are similar diameter. However, I went with 265/60/18s as a lot more common than 255/60/18s. The speedo is now quite accurate.

[Babs]

Just get 5 GOE rims then you don't have to muck around swapping tyres/rims around.

I put 265/65/18 tyres on the GOE and (deflated) the spare fits underneath.

I think carrying tyre plugs and a compressor are a must so in the unlikely event of a damaged tyre and you need to swap the spare around, then you will have a compressor on board to pump it back up

[letherm]

Just get 5 GOE rims then you don't have to muck around swapping tyres/rims around.

I put 265/65/18 tyres on the GOE and (deflated) the spare fits underneath.

I think carrying tyre plugs and a compressor are a must so in the unlikely event of a damaged tyre and you need to swap the spare around, then you will have a compressor on board to pump it back up

Main reason for GOE rims is more comfortable ride (my wife has a bad back) with a larger diameter tyre as well as more choice of tyre. My compressor sits in the back all the time and I drive in the city mostly so that wouldn't be an issue. My concerns were about the spare fitting and I have rear air con which may have to be rerouted if I get too large a diameter tyre. BTW what is the issue with fitting the spare under the car? Is it diameter or width or both?

Martin

[letherm]

255/55/19s & 255/60/18s are similar diameter. However, I went with 265/60/18s as a lot more common than 255/60/18s. The speedo is now quite accurate.

Does that affect the odometer much if at all? Certainly wouldn't mind an accurate speedo for a change. :)

Martin

[LRD414]

Martin,

265/60/R18 is close enough to OEM diameter that there is nothing rubbing anywhere and the spare fits underneath without being deflated.
This size also makes the speedo closer to correct as mentioned.

265/65/R18 is a bit bigger again and requires the spare to be deflated to fit underneath. The issue is diameter.
Even deflated it requires a bit of persuasion as its being lifted to ensure it goes up evenly into the wheel bay.
This size gets a little bit of minor rubbing that many report as not a big issue.
I'm not sure about the rear a/c lines for this size. It may be only an issue for the bigger sizes.

I have driven with a single OEM 255/55/R19 together with 3 x 265/60/R18 for a few kms as a test.
There was no errors but over time this would cause crabbing and uneven wear etc.

I'm happy enough to take a 255/55/R19 as a 2nd spare for remote trips but use it as a last resort.
For example, i would plug the first flat if suffering a second flat rather than use the 19.
But if very unlucky and get 2 x unrepairable flats then the 19 would be pressed in to service.

But I wouldn't stuff around with all that for the first spare which is carried all the time (I got 5 x GOE rims).

Cheers,
Scott

[rar110]

Does that affect the odometer much if at all? Certainly wouldn't mind an accurate speedo for a change. :)



Martin



The speedo now reads 1 or 2 km over actual speed according to my navigation app.

[Narangga]

The speedo now reads 1 or 2 km over actual speed according to my navigation app.

265/60 R18 on a 2006 D3 has the speedo reading spot on.

[Babs]

I found (according to the GPS) that with the factory size I was 6klm out.
When the speedo read 100klm GPS told me I was only doing 94klm.

Now I'm only 1klm out, speedo reads 100klm and GPS reads 99klm.

So I'm still happy, it has corrected the speedo and still gives me 1klm grace.

FYI for those who could not be bothered reading back.

I went from factory 255/55/19 to 265/65/18

[Graeme]

Note that your odometer is now understated.

[rar110]

Note that your odometer is now understated.



So odometer will now be reading about 5% less than actual km travelled, if speedo is approx accurate?

[Graeme]

Yes, and needs to be taken into account if calculating fuel consumption.

[letherm]

So odometer will now be reading about 5% less than actual km travelled, if speedo is approx accurate?

Good for when you sell I suppose.:wasntme:

Martin