Chucking on a front sway bar only on a 110?

[Plutei]

The new-to-me 300Tdi rolls a LOT more than my old 200Tdi which I want to reduce (neither had sway bars so I'm assuming this is due to the short sagged stock springs reducing roll in the 200tdi vs longer replacement front springs on the 300tdi increasing height and roll).

Don't think I'll be able to fit a rear sway bar with the replacement fuel tank so considering a front sway bar.
Is this going to work?

Don't use it for wheeling so articulation not a priority.

[weeds]

Pretty sure you just need spacers for the rear sway bar if you have a long range tank fitted.

Can vaguely remember seeing pics posted.

[landy]

I have done exactly this for the same reason. Mines a Td5 though. I think it's made a huge difference and I'm happy with the results.

[Plutei]

Pretty sure you just need spacers for the rear sway bar if you have a long range tank fitted.

Can vaguely remember seeing pics posted.

My extended fuel tank wraps under the chassis rails, this is the model pictured:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/708.jpg

Which, if I'm not mistaken, means that it covers up the mounts, so I assumed there would be no real work-around for that.

[Plutei]

Out of curiosity, is there any difference between having a front sway bar vs a rear sway bar?

Landy, did you by chance have a rear sway bar prior to the tank upgrade? If so, any difference?

[justinc]

I have both now on the county. I have all late defender suspension and brakes, and it handles beautifully into turns and on rough dirt. Very happy with both sway bars.

Jc

[landy]

Out of curiosity, is there any difference between having a front sway bar vs a rear sway bar?

Landy, did you by chance have a rear sway bar prior to the tank upgrade? If so, any difference?

No, there weren't any swaybars fitted to mine. I'm pretty sure they were an option only.

I have the same tank. No way to fit a rear swaybar.

[weeds]

My extended fuel tank wraps under the chassis rails, this is the model pictured:



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/708.jpg



Which, if I'm not mistaken, means that it covers up the mounts, so I assumed there would be no real work-around for that.



I think your correct, I forgot about your style of long range fuel tank.

[steveG]

I have a similar one that goes under the RH chassis rail like yours.
Can't fit the rear sway bar, and the mounts actually had to be cut off to fit the tank in the first place.
I wouldn't ever fit that style of tank again. Removal of the rear sway bar (even the light one on the county) makes a BIG difference to body roll on the road.
I'd go down the path of fitting a RH quarter tank with either the standard main tank or larger one that still allowed sway bay fitment.

I regained a bit of roll stiffness by fitting Firestone helper airbags in the rear springs, and generally just running them with minimal pressure. Better than nothing, but poor substitute for the sway bar
Its still like the Titanic when compared to my 130 which has front and rear bars.

Steve

[rick130]

Bloody wusses, a little roll never hurt anyone. :angel:







:D

FWIW my BT50 work ute lurches badly.
High riser suspension and little low speed damping makes it flop and wallow through corners.
I've found I need to pick it up by the scruff of the neck and hurl it at a corner, make sure I'm in the right gear and nail the 3.2 when it's roughly pointing in the right direction, then it drives ok, or at least is a little more fun. (and even more fun scaring the apprentices :twisted:)

[Plutei]

Steve, considered getting a front sway bar?

And with the helper bags I've read somewhere that they make unladen travelling with minimal pressure a bit awkward over bumps an the like. Have you found that to be the case at all? What pressure do you run it at?

[steveG]

Steve, considered getting a front sway bar?

And with the helper bags I've read somewhere that they make unladen travelling with minimal pressure a bit awkward over bumps an the like. Have you found that to be the case at all? What pressure do you run it at?



No, never really thought about fitting a front bar.
The helper airbags weren't fitted for the body roll, mainly to keep off the bump stops when at max load/fuel/water on trips. I only noticed the improvement to roll after fitting them.

I'm running heavy springs anyway, so usually just run a minimum 8psi or so, and 15psi max so probably using them a bit differently to others.
Don't notice any ride issues but it's never really "empty" anyway, with 60L fridge, storage unit, basic camping gear for overnighters, water and the rooftop tent fitted permanently.
Running 255/85's at mid 30's improves the ride too :)

Steve

[PAT303]

I have both now on the county. I have all late defender suspension and brakes, and it handles beautifully into turns and on rough dirt. Very happy with both sway bars.

Jc

It's interesting you found this result also because people didn't believe me when I posted the same thing.The TDCi is much more competent on outback dirt roads than the previous models. Pat

[PAT303]

Another thing defender owners should do is try different pressures front to back,I found the handling improved by running 36 on the font and 32 on the rear unloaded,loaded 36 front 42 rear.Sounds like BS but I try this type of thing on Tracey's TDCi without telling her and if she asked if I've changed anything I know it made a difference. Pat

[justinc]

It's interesting you found this result also because people didn't believe me when I posted the same thing.The TDCi is much more competent on outback dirt roads than the previous models. Pat

The tdci has gas shocks factory. I think they are a vast improvement. Mine has DeCarbon shocks all round, std def rear coils and factory heavy duty/ 130 front springs. With a steel bar and winch with rope and the 4bd1 it is sprung beautifully in my opinion. With the addition of a full rijidij rear bar and carrier/ jerry carrier however I'm going to have to fit 130 inner springs if i go towing as the van drawbar weight is 205kg.

Jc

[rick130]

Spring and damper tuning is an art, and IMO Tdi/TD5 era factory dampers/shockies aren't compliant enough for our roads.
Miles too much low speed bump damping helps reduce body roll but makes compliance harsh, too much mid/high speed bump for the relatively stiff rear spring rates makes the car harsh over bumps.

The earlier 110 coilers with RRC soft springs and the load leveller were a revelation for compliance and ride quality, but the body roll terrified most.

If you could push past that fear, let the car take a set as you rolled into the corner and just drive they are impressively quick, jut a little ponderous on quick changes of direction
.

Haven't taken a ride/drive in a Tdci yet to see what they are like.

Interesting observation re tyre pressures Pat.

Generally in most cars you run more air in the more heavily loaded end, so it makes sense to adjust as your load changes.
It's something I always did, and as we've discussed in the past, different brands (constructions) demand different pressures to what the tyre placard recommends too.

FWIW I brought the old front ant-roll bar with me when I moved, just never got around to fitting it.

One thing to watch out for if you've increased your droop/articulation in the front end (10"+ travel shockies) is that the front prop will now crash into the anti-roll bar in droop.

You can do a lot with shock tuning to reduce felt roll, but the car won't be as nice in ride on really rough dirt, but you won't compromise articulation as an anti-roll bar will.
Or, (re)fit an anti-roll bar/s for town and touring, and remove for the really rough stuff.
Everything's a compromise. :D

[justinc]

I have the g force active suspension still from my rrc... that negates ANY body roll 😈


Jc

[PAT303]

The thing I like to feel when I drive is good positive steering,the thing I absolutely hate to feel is the mushing front end Japanese vehicles have.I had a brand new Triton for 3 days,how they can make a vehicle feel like none of the controls inside the cab are connected to parts outside of it is beyond me. Pat

[justinc]

Pat this is the goods mate. I could take corners at any speed i liked only dictate was the ability of the tyres to grip...😮. Retained the soft compliant classic rr ride too😊 win all round!

G-Force Suspension System by the Auto Edge (http://www.4wdonline.com/2000/000619-Auto-Edge.html)

Jc

[rick130]

I have the g force active suspension still from my rrc... that negates ANY body roll 😈


Jc

As I was typing my last post I was thinking "Mmmm, Kinetic's system would be noice" :D

[justinc]

As I was typing my last post I was thinking "Mmmm, Kinetic's system would be noice" :D

Its on my shelf at work Rick...😎

[rick130]

The thing I like to feel when I drive is good positive steering,the thing I absolutely hate to feel is the mushing front end Japanese vehicles have.I had a brand new Triton for 3 days,how they can make a vehicle feel like none of the controls inside the cab are connected to parts outside of it is beyond me. Pat

Everyone tells me the Ranger drives quite differently to the BT50 and all it is is springs and shocks.
I need to take the GM's 2.2 Ranger for a burl one day.
The MD and the Accounts Manager have Amaroks and they feel fine, but I've only ridden in them, not taken one for a fang.

I'm still surprised at the lurch and wallow 'my' BT50 has, and I loathe the shift quality of the MT82 and how the drive by wire throttle determines what it thinks I want and not what my right foot is asking for.
Bloody frustrating.

[rick130]

Its on my shelf at work Rick...😎


Stop it !

I've had dreams and scurrilous thoughts in the last week of keeping the 130.
Yes, it's still sitting here, unloved and unutilised atm. :(

The next mods were to be full air bags with remote res dampers and the Kaiser diff I have in the back with an Ashcroft ATB in the front.
After I fixed the bloody leaking IP. :mad:




Must resist the temptation.
Must resist the temptation.