Home Servicing.

[2nd Rower]

I'm thinking of doing a service at home on my 2010 3.6 TDV8... Just Oil and filters.

Can I ask what oil is best type and brand, and I'm probably limited to the local car parts shops as want to do this weekend. And how much is needed.

Also if I do a change of transfer box oil how much is needed.

Thanks in advance.

[GregMilner]

Really important to stick to exactly the grade and specification of oil in the manual. It's just not worth the grief you can bring on yourself by using cheapies.

[rar110]

And quality filters. Next service the mechanic is going to do an engine oil flush as this is what my oil looks like straight after an oil change.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/265.jpg

[Homestar]

For the TC - buy the oil from the dealers - they don't use much and it's not too expensive. I've found it difficult to find what the after maket equivalent is for the TC and diffs.

With the engine, again, buy your filters from the dealer or good quality afternarket - there's some cheap junk available on line in the for, of cheap service kits - don't use these.

Find out what the spec of the engine oil is and find the correct equivalent - don't just bang any old synthetic in there thinking it will be ok.

[chaybra]

And quality filters. Next service the mechanic is going to do an engine oil flush as this is what my oil looks like straight after an oil change.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/265.jpg

Oil colour is not an accurate indication of oil condition in diesel engines. smell and viscosity are the way to go

[DiscoMick]

Oil always goes dark quickly as it picks up gunk in the engine, which is a good thing and shows the oil is doing it's job. Does it smell burnt?
If in doubt change oils and filters regularly. They are cheap compared with repairs.


Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

[rar110]

The oil is new, it just picks up a lot of residual particles trapped around the motor. I'd rather they were all picked up in oil and drained off. Another option is do a couple of quick succession oil changes with cheap oil, finishing with quality oil.

[justinc]

Oil is cheap. Comparitively...

Jc

[Graeme]

Castrol Magnatec Professional A5 5W30 is the LR recommended engine oil but Shell, Penrite and Nulon all produce an oil that they say meets the preferred Ford spec WSS M2C913-B or -C.

1L bottles of "LR Special Transfer case oil" can be purchased either from LR or from outlets who source the oil from LR UK. For the front diff and rear diff if not an e-diff LR recommends Castrol Syntrax Longlife 75W90 (readily available in 1L bottles) whilst an e-diff uses Castrol BOT720 which can be obtained from LR and from other sources that import from the UK. I don't understand why the e-diff doesn't use the same oil as the TC other than a reason for LR to charge the earth for it, although the TC pumps oil whereas the e-diff does not.

[Road Stone]

And quality filters. Next service the mechanic is going to do an engine oil flush as this is what my oil looks like straight after an oil change.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/265.jpg

Where I am I don't have much choice thus I use the closest which is 5W-40 Synthetic. However, I'm changing this and the filter every 4500-5000klms.

Pete, I'd be interested to know how many K's you have on that oil in the picture?

I have been told given the high compression in a diesel the oil turns black in under 100klms, not sure if that is true?

Cheers, Jerry

[rar110]

Gday Jerry
That's after about 30km.

[Hammer H]

I've been through this myself a few years ago and in the end was not confident any other oil was satisfactory other the than the castrol specified which apparently only supposed to be supplied to the dealers. Which is where is I purchase mine from.

My understanding is The oil was developed for this engine, and with the turbo problems I don't want to take a risk.

I was once able to purchase the oil through supercheap, but they would not supply it the next time, I tried many other suppliers even castrol but no one would supply it.

I did track down a company online in Vic that would supply it but I decided to buy from the dealer.

[Graeme]

The Castrol engine oil is a standard product line but only available in 20L or 200L drums. My local co-op is the area's Castrol distributor and have it on the shelf these days, which is not surprising given the number of TDV6 Ford Terrritorys getting around. It's a Ford spec oil, not specific to LR but LR quote the Ford spec as being preferred. After-all, it's a Ford-developed engine.

[Graeme]

When draining the 3.6's engine oil, be sure to remove both sump drain plugs. Often the rear plug which drains a reservoir for the turbo oil returns gets overlooked which results in a build-up of sludge which inhibits proper flow of oil from the turbos.

[BigJon]

I use an ELF / Total 5w40 full synthetic and have done for 3 1/2 years. Genuine oil filter and two new drain plugs every 10 000kms.

[Road Stone]

When draining the 3.6's engine oil, be sure to remove both sump drain plugs. Often the rear plug which drains a reservoir for the turbo oil returns gets overlooked which results in a build-up of sludge which inhibits proper flow of oil from the turbos.

The above is an important point, and I caught my Indie forgetting to do it.

Hi Pete, I only asked because I had an Oil/filter change on the day I saw your pic.
So I checked mine on return home and after 85klms, in heavy traffic this is what mine looked like. Thought it maybe of interest to you as a comparison.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/222.jpg (http://s133.photobucket.com/user/roadstone/media/Oil%20Change%2085k.jpg.html)

My issue now is I got rear ended on the way home:( Now I have that S"?T to sort out!

Cheers, Jerry

[rar110]

Ta Jerry
That's a huge difference. It looks like they ar'nt doing both, even though I expressly reminded them. Maybe I'll do the next oil change at home.

There are a few L322 being wrecked in oz.

[2nd Rower]

Successfully changed the oil and oil filter today. Thanks for all the info and help, particularly the second sump drain plug!

I used a Penrite 5W40; that after speaking for a while to Penrite meets and exceeds the Ford Oil standard as listed in the handbook for the 3.6 TDV8 Engine.

[rar110]

If you have a chance after a short drive, pull the dipstick and take a pic against a paper towel. I'd be interested to see if it's the same as Jerrys.

[2nd Rower]

I drove back from the Black Spur yesterday, so have already given the car a good run.

That said, gave the dipstick a good examination immediately post filling, partic to make sure it was full to right level, and the oil was dark/Black straight away. The mechanic helping me (ran his own shop for 30+ years) said this should be expected for a diesel, and not a worry.

[Roverlord off road spares]

I drove back from the Black Spur yesterday, so have already given the car a good run.

That said, gave the dipstick a good examination immediately post filling, partic to make sure it was full to right level, and the oil was dark/Black straight away. The mechanic helping me (ran his own shop for 30+ years) said this should be expected for a diesel, and not a worry.
It used to be the case that diesel oils had more detergent in them to clean the soot from inside. Not sure about the modern oils as they are also used in petrol engines.

[bsperka]

Diesel oil quickly turning black is the norm, but it doesn't need to be so. It's because there's a lot of contaminates left in the engine. I used Cost Effective's Flush Oil Concentrate on a 30 yr old diesel engine (Hilux 2L). When we ran it after getting all the crud out, I thought we'd forgotten to put oil in, as it was that clean. Engine ran better after this with more power. I don't work for the company, just reckon it's good product.

[rar110]

What's the recommended interval for changing the fuel filter?

[carlschmid2002]

For the TC - buy the oil from the dealers - they don't use much and it's not too expensive. I've found it difficult to find what the after maket equivalent is for the TC and diffs.

With the engine, again, buy your filters from the dealer or good quality afternarket - there's some cheap junk available on line in the for, of cheap service kits - don't use these.

Find out what the spec of the engine oil is and find the correct equivalent - don't just bang any old synthetic in there thinking it will be ok.

Have a look in the D3/D4 forum as there is a thread on this. I used Royal Purple in the TC on my D3. I don't know about the TDV8 but the Petrol V8 in my D4 takes 5W-20W from memory and I haven't found it anywhere. I got a LR specialist to change it.

[DiscoMick]

What's the recommended interval for changing the fuel filter?

I'm doing it every service on my Defender. I figure its $100 well spent for longer engine life.

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[Graeme]

the Petrol V8 in my D4 takes 5W-20W from memory and I haven't found it anywhere.5W30 ACEA A1 or A3 or API SJ, SL or SM, Ford spec WSS-M2C913-B or -C preferred. The TDV6/TDV8 Castrol preferred oil is suitable but many other 5W30 oils have the required ACEA and/or API specs.

[shanegtr]

It used to be the case that diesel oils had more detergent in them to clean the soot from inside. Not sure about the modern oils as they are also used in petrol engines.
A "diesel" oil generally has more detergent (usually calcium) than a normal engine oil, however most engine oils now contain around the 3000ppm mark of calcium, compared to some diesel oils that are up around 4000ppm. The detergent is not just used to clean the soot, it also disperses the soot and stops its coagulating and forming sludges. Detergents can also neutralise acids

[Roverlord off road spares]

I replaced the air filter today, what a marathon job that is!:(
The hidden bolt at the rear of the engine cover was a real mongrel to refit, it's not a job I would like to do too often.
Rave doesn't explain the removal of the cover too well.
I did find a YOU TUBE vid on it, and it mentioned 5 bolts to remove and showed the locations , he points to the side of the cover for one of them, but it's not there , it's actually at the rear, the hidden one, which was stopping it's removal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wiP1Xi_B-hw

I also changed the Crank case breather filter whilst I was in there, as I didn't know the history of when it was last replaced. Luckily it was in pretty good nick.
I was unable to get the modified crank case breather , so I order one from the UK. Well it would have been handy to have had it whilst I in there, but 6 weeks waiting for it to arrive! I thought I'll probably turn up in the mail tomorrow knowing my luck. Well I was right, it arrived today!.
So I'm not going to fit it until my next service.

[chaybra]

i pull mine out every few weeks to bang out the dust from the amount of dirt i see. i need to make a snorkel next

[Homestar]

I used to leave the back bolt out of mine to make life easier... :angel:

[Roverlord off road spares]

I used to leave the back bolt out of mine to make life easier... :angel:
That's Cheating!:p

I Also notice on the Engine acoustic cover, I the bolt at the top rear has very little clearance room. looks like an allen key or and allen key bit into a small racket spanner to remove that one . At least in their wisdom the designers thought about it and put retainers under the bolts so you don't looses the bolts when you remove the covers.:)