Philip As patented rear door unlocker

[PhilipA]

I was alerted to the problem of unlocking the rear door if the central locking fails by a post last week. So thanks.
So I thought about how to overcome the problem.
At first I drilled a hole in the lock button to fit some stainless wire with the intention of placing a loop at the top of the door, but that doesn't work.
Even if you pull the button up it does not unlock the door.
I have a table on my tailgate so the problem is even more serious for me.
So here is the solution I came up with.
The handle unlocks the door with the first pull if it is locked, and opens with a second pull but not fully in my case.
It can be snagged with a brolly, although I think I may get some stiff wire like they hold shocks closed with and velcro it to my cupboard as with the fridge in place it would be difficult with a brolly.

115693

Regards Philip A
Credit to Mrapocalypse titled Pre emptive strike

[onebob]

I was alerted to the problem of unlocking the rear door if the central locking fails by a post last week. So thanks.
So I thought about how to overcome the problem.
At first I drilled a hole in the lock button to fit some stainless wire with the intention of placing a loop at the top of the door, but that doesn't work.
Even if you pull the button up it does not unlock the door.
I have a table on my tailgate so the problem is even more serious for me.
So here is the solution I came up with.
The handle unlocks the door with the first pull if it is locked, and opens with a second pull but not fully in my case.
It can be snagged with a brolly, although I think I may get some stiff wire like they hold shocks closed with and velcro it to my cupboard as with the fridge in place it would be difficult with a brolly.

115693



Regards Philip A
Credit to Mrapocalypse titled Pre emptive strike

Oh! we are on the same wavelength and I've gone thru the exact same thought process but in the end I just could not bring myself to cut "another" hole in my stainless steel rear door table - I already have a roughly 400mm square hole cutout in the table that I place a 14L wash basin into. So I resolved that I'll continue on with my so far successful counter measure of regulary drowning the rear door catch mechanism and body latch in spray lithium grease. DUST INGRESS IS THE PROBLEM and the grease is like fly paper for bull dust and a wipe down before a refresh spray application has kept problems at bay for all the years I've owned my D2 and I do know that the previous owner did have problems - oh! and I also have in place around the door lock catch and the body latch self adhesive foam draught excluder strip as a barrier of sorts. I have seriously considered installing a computer fan into the rear door facsia card that would be running whenever the D2 is driving with the idea of creating positive pressure in the door cavity and preventing the ingress of dust.



I'll post photos if there's interest ....

[CU55TM Disco]

Why not a universal central door lock motor in place of the inside handle? I removed my handle completely when I did my table😒
But I thought a for lock motor would be able to pull one for unlock and perhaps again for open if required, I would power it from the same circuit as the fuel flap so that you couldn't unlock/open whilst the car is in motion.

[alien]

I was under the impression the dust ingress combined with the child catch dropping slightly was where the problem is.
On mine I found using the using the inside lock and handle would not open the door.
It was only thumping the door handle external trim near the badge while locking /unlocking that produced results for me.

I washed the lock and used a dry lubricant so the dust would not build up.
I also cycled the child lock from time to time.

[PhilipA]

I have never used anything but spray drilube or equivalent on any part of my rear door latching mechanism, and have had no problem with unlocking so far, which includes a lap including the GRR.
Funny, yesterday I bought a length of stainless wire which I bent into a hook at one end and lay across the car behind the back seat. The bloke in "Metal by the Meter Bolts by The Bag" told me that another 4WDriver had been in the day before and bought the same thing.
Hopefully the Talisman will keep away the evil lock spirits.
Regards Philip A

[CU55TM Disco]

115883 here's my quick bodge yesty arvo with a universal door lock motor, unfortunately it didn't have quite enough guts to trigger the release of the lock, or the door latch, but it could be made to work.

While I was at It, I pulled the lock assy it and it looks fairly simple to mod it so that the internal lock button can be used to unlock it also.

[PhilipA]

If you go that far it is probably a more elegant solution as you could run a bit of wire to the top of the door and through a saddle clamp with a large loop, and it would be much easier to reach in and pull up.
I had drilled a hole in my lock button and cut slots in the surround before I realised that lifting the lock button did not unlock the door.
Land Rover strikes again.

Regards Philip A

[steve_a]

I've got a 72" bonnet/choke cable, plan is to fit the handle near the rear seatbelt, feed the cable through the door gland and fasten to the handle.
The handle will work as it normally does, but the cable release can be reached past my barrier. Also removed the lock tab.
It should be a neat installation and won't change normal operation, the lock tab will never be used in my car, so removing it was a no-brainer.
cable link (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/291898561363?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)