vasimone
6th November 2016, 07:09 AM
Hello guys!
Some of you might remember the other thread I opened last year when I was trying to get my hands on this Defender: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/newreply.php'do=newreply&noquote=1&p=2386810
Well..finaly I did it! I got the Landy after a very long back and forth! It's the best vehicle I could have gotten here in West Africa and I will now work to make it as great as it can be!
As per my introduction this is a 110 1996 Defender converted to 6x4 by carmichael (picture is in the other thread)- it had a 3.5 V8 that got broken and it got fixed a 1994 200TDI (yeah I know not the best for such a beast but that's an opportunity to change it with something more suitable in the future).
My dream is to now transform it into an overland vehicle that will take me from here to the rest of the world....I would like to do so in about 18 months or so... so let the fun begin!
The car has been sitting idle for something like 5 years before they changed the engine and did some general maintenance to it to use it to pass the general tests needed to transfer it from a government vehicle (it was a Ghana Fire Service Truck) to a private owned vehicle. It was used it for a month or so before I was able to put my hands on it.
I now have identified a Land Rover specialist and will take there Wheely (yes that's his name) for a first check-up. The mechanics I have shown it so far have all said that is in good conditions after the general maintenance that it got done, but still I want to do a THOROUGH check-up before i take it for a 10 days test trip in the harsh conditions of Northern Ghana.
I read the 450 pages of the 1996 Land Rover Workshop Manual (publication number LRL0097ENG) and have summarised what are the things that I want to be checked up. It might be too much for the forum but I will give it a try (:wasntme:)....hopefully this could also be useful to someone else in the future as it's quite comprehensive!
I would really appreciate if you could tell me in your opinion what are the most important/urgent ones to do before the test trip....The mechanics here in Africa need a lot of guidance :cool: and I could really do with some support here!
Enjoy the read:
1. CHECKS
a. VISUALLY CHECK BRAKE, FUEL, CLUTCHHOSES/PIPES/UNIONS FOR CHAFING, LEAKS AND CORROSION
b. CHECK FOR FLUID LEAKS FROM POWER STEERING AND SUSPENSION SYSTEMS, HYDRAULIC PIPES AND UNIONS FOR CHAFING AND CORROSION
2. OTHER
a. Swivel pin housing oil -->if there is a level and drain plug
b. LUBRICATE PROPELLER SHAFT UNIVERSAL AND SLIDING JOINTS --> SANDY CONDITIONS --> Under tropical or severe conditions, particularly where sand is encountered, the sliding joints must be lubricated very frequently to prevent ingress of abrasive material.
3. ENGINE CHECKS
a. Camshaft drive belt --> CHECK --> RENEW EVERY 6 OR 3 YEARS
b. OIL CHANGE
i. engine oil sump drain plug
c. FIX speedometer and odometer
d. All working surfaces of the master cylinder and caliper cylinders should be examined and renewed where necessary.
e. VALVE CLEARANCES - CHECK AND ADJUST
f. CYLINDER COMPRESSION TEST (NEEDED Fit dummy injector, from diesel compression tester kit LRT-19-007) --> Expected readings of a crank test, with vehicle battery fully charged, compression ratio 19.5:1 should be 24 bar (348 lbf/in2). --> If compression is appreciably less than correct reading, or varies by more than 10%, piston rings or valves may be worn or damaged. Low pressures in adjoining cylinders may indicate a faulty cylinder head gasket
g. ENGINE OIL PRESSURE TEST --> Connect pressure test gauge LRT-12-052A --> With engine running at idle check oil pressure, which should read 1.76 bar (25.87 lbf/in2).
h. Apply Hylomar sealant to mating faces of bell housing and flywheel housing. (NON SON SICURO SE SI POSSA FARE - DICE QUANDO SI REFIT THE ENGINE)
i. THROTTLE CABLE adjust --> Check that throttle opens fully when the throttle is depressed. --> CAVO ACCELERATORE? DA CAMBIARE?
i. THROTTLE PEDAL ADJUSTMENT --> adjust --. Depedend on throttle cable adjustment --> CAN DO MYSELF
j. EGR THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR --> check
k. LOW AND HIGH IDLE SPEED ADJUSTMENT --> check
l. INJECTION PUMP TIMING - CHECK AND ADJUST
m. TURBOCHARGER BOOST PRESSURE - CHECK
n. PRIMING THE FUEL SYSTEM (Sedimentor and fuel filter + Fuel injection pump
o. DRAIN + Clean FUEL SEDIMENTOR --> dependent on primingfuel system
p. Clean FUEL FILTER ASSEMBLY
q. CHECK CARB CONDITION
r. CHECK TURBOCHARGER OIL FEED PIPE + TURBOCHARGER OIL DRAIN PIPE
s. Check intercooler condition and upper/lower foams + radiator
t. EGR VALVE + modulator check
u. CHECK idle speed correct?
4. COOLING SYSTEM
a. DRAIN AND REFILL COOLING SYSTEM
b. CHECK THERMOSTAT FOR OPENING AT RIGHT TEMPERATURE --> Thermostat is satisfactory if it opens between 85? - 89? C.
5. CLUTCH
a. Bleed clutch hydraulic system
b. CHECK CLUTCH CONDITION + LININGS + AIR IN HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
c. Check distance from lower edge of clutch pedal to floor. Correct measurement is 140 mm (5.50 in) without floor mat-->IS IT OK?
d. Check operation of clutch pedal and ensure that there is a minimum of 6 mm (0.25 in) of free play before pressure is felt -->IS IT OK?
6. Gearbox
7. CHANGE OIL
8. Check: The main and transfer gearboxes ventilate through nylon pipes, which terminate high up in the engine compartment to prevent water entry when the vehicle is operating in adverse conditions
9. Check lubricant specification and level
10. lubricate gear mechanism, and check selector adjustments
11. Drain lubricant and check for contamination or metal particles WITH MAGNET
12. Check condition of synchromesh unit, springs and cones for distortion and wear. Also check dog teeth for damage and cone mating surface on gear for signs of overheating.
13. GEAR CHANGE LEVER BIAS SPRING - ADJUST
14. FIFTH GEAR STOP SCREW - ADJUST --> what is it for?
15. Transfer gearbox
16. CHANGE OIL
17. Check for oil leaks --> Verify that oil leak is from transfer box and not main gearbox before proceeding with checks --> there are different tests to be done!
18. Check that yokes on both ends are aligned with arrow matching https://youtu.be/hWGM7fnMV9g't=5m30s
19. REAR AXLE
20. check the differential oil level AND SEE if to change it?
21. Check for signs of metal particles in the oil and the condition of internal seals --> with magnet
22. Check differential condition pp 185
23. FRONT AXLE
a. The differential, swivel pin housing and wheel hubs are indiviudally lubricated --> The wheel bearings are lubricated with grease and the swivel housing and differential with oil.
b. FRONT STUB AXLE, CONSTANT VELOCITY JOINT AND SWIVEL PIN HOUSING --> complicato e magari fan casino nel rimontarlo ma si puo' fare check per segni di usura
c. Check Swivel pin housing and Swivel bearing housing (Tighten to 73 Nm (54 lbf/ft) + A LOT OF GREASE TO BE APPLIED AS PER GUIDELINES)--> Coat swivel bearing housing to axle casing bolts with Loctite 270 + Coat both sides of joint washer with a sealing compound. Position swivel bearing housing to axle mating face + Fit oil seal, joint washer and retaining plate with 7 bolts and spring washers. Tighten to 11 Nm (8 lbf/ft) + Fit tie rod and drag link and secure with new cotter pins. Tighten fixing to 40 Nm (30 lbf/ft -->
d. Determine effort required to turn swivel pin housing Resistance, once initial inertia has been overcome, should be 1.16 to 1.46 kg (Attach a spring balance to ball joint bore and pull balance)
e. Fill swivel assembly to correct level, with new oil - On later vehicles fill swivel pin housing with 0.33 Litres of Molytex EP 00 grease.
24. WHEEL --> WHEN REMOVING WHEEL: Apply parking brake, select a gear in main gearbox and engage low gear in transfer box + Cambiare gomme: to close turn by hand wheel nuts for at least three full threads before using any form of wheel wrench.
25. Balance wheel and tyre cupping assembly
26. wheel alignment
a. check FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT
27. Balance wheel and tyre cupping assembly
a. Check status of wheel bearings --> When taking off the wheel and replacing it clean it properly and apply some copper slip --> Left middle tire moves (tremola) when in motion
28. Wheel bearings --> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4A9MTOOC60 --> to regrease --> Holding inner race between finger and thumb of one hand, spin outer race and check that it revolves absolutely smoothly. Repeat, holding outer race and spinning inner race. 4. Rotate outer ring gently with a reciprocating motion, while holding inner ring; feel for any check or obstruction to rotation, and reject bearing if action is not perfectly smooth.
a. LE GOMME ANTERIORI DEVO ESSERE LEGGERMENTE TOE-OUT COSI ANDANDO SI METTONO PARALELE E CONSUMANO MENO GOMMA
29. Fit road wheel, remove axle stands and tighten
30. road wheel nuts to correct torque:
31. Alloy wheels - 130 Nm (96 lbf/ft)
32. Steel wheels - 100 Nm (80 lbf/ft)
33. Heavy duty wheels - 170 Nm (125 lbf/ft)
34. Steering:
a. CHECK/TIGHTEN STEERING UNIT AND STEERING ROD BALL JOINT FIXINGS, CHECK CONDITION OF BALL JOINTS AND DUST COVERS (Ball joints are lubricated for life during manufacture and require no further lubrication unless the rubber boot has been dislodged or damaged + Check for wear in joints by moving ball joint up and down vigorously. If free movement is apparent, fit a new joint assembly
b. Ensure that road wheels, steering box and steering wheel are correctly positioned relative to each other when in straight ahead condition.
c. Set steering lock stop bolts
d. steering has power assistance? Fluid level correct? Leak? Need to bleed? Drive belt tension correct? --> carry out pressure test at idle and 1000 rev/min. -> With system in good condition, pressures should be: (A) Steering wheel held on full lock and engine running at 1,000 rev/min, 70 to 77 kgf/cm2. (B) Steering wheel held on full lock and engine idling, 28 kgf/cm2.
e. Check the condition operation of the hydraulic steering damper
f. Is there any looseness or free play in the steering ball joints and linkage?
g. Check universal joints for seizure and correct alignment
h. Check power steering box adjustments
i. Is there any looseness or free play in the steering ball joints and linkage
j. Check fluid level pression to be correct
k. Check condition of ball joints and the lower steering column shaft universal joints for wear
l. Check balance road wheels for oscilation of steering wheel?
m. Check the steering hydraulic damper function
n. Check steering column universal joints for wear and correct alignment\
o. Check steering linkage ball joints for wear,correct alignment and security, including steering box and tie rod
p. Check all front suspension rubbers for wear.
q. Check all fixing torques, including radius arm bushes, panhard rod and anti-roll bar
r. Check the hub bearing end floats and determine the condition of the hub bearing
s. Check the resistance and condition of the swivels
t. If Vehicle veers, not under braking, swap front tyres side to side. If Vehicle veers under braking, bleed brake
35. system.
a. Recentralise steering box needed??
b. Is oil escaping from filler cap? bleed system !
c. If leaking check if Are hoses or joints leaking? Check on full lock with engine at 2000 rev/min. if Does leak remain change PAS pipe.
d. Is noise a squeal on full lock? YES - checkdrive belt tension and remove belt if necessary
e. STIFF STEARING: With engine off, centralise steering wheel, and remove steering wheel decal. Using torque wrench on column nut, check torque required to turn the steering wheel one turn in each direction. Record readings obtained in each direction. Reading should be 4.40 Nm (3.5 lbf/ft). If figures are in excess of that specified carry out steering box tie bar reset (CHECK HOW TO DO IT).
f. Steering shaft universal joint lubrication.? with an anti-seizure type penetrating spray.
g. Road springs - check that road springs are correctly seated
h. Ride height - measure trim height from wheel entre to wheelarch eyebrow. Record results on data sheet.
i. Check/top up power steering fluid --> Check that fluid level is at maximum level + Run engine to normal operating temperature+ Recheck reservoir fluid level, top up if necessary + With engine at idle speed, slacken bleed screw. When fluid seeps past bleed screw retighten screw and clean up
j. With engine running, test steering system for leaks by holding steering in both full lock directions. --> (no more than 30 secs) --> Check hose connections, pump and steering box for fluid leaks by holding steering on full lock in both directions.
k. Check tension and condition of drive belt Track rod/drag link - check condition of track rod, drag link and ball joints
l. Suspension bushes - examine all steering and suspension bushes for signs of wear and deterioration. Also check all fixings for torque relaxation
m. Oil leaks - check front and rear axle hubs for leak and repair as necessary.
n. Hub end float - check movement in the hubs by rocking the wheels.
o. inspecting steering linkages and ball joints for wear + Check ball joint assemblies for seizure i.e. no movement on ball joint and associated assemblies +
p. Drag link adjust LH drive vehicles - if steering wheel is to right, drag link is too short. If steering wheel is to left drag link is too long
q. STEERING LOCK STOPS: Measure clearance between tyre wall and radius arm at full lock. This must be not less than 20 mm ( adjust instructions in pdf)
r. Check tightness of clamp bolt fixings. Tighten to 14 Nm (10lbf/ft)
s. Measure toe-out at horizontal centre-line of wheels with Recognised front wheel alignment and tracking equipment
t. Tighten tie bar to mounting nut to 110 Nm (81 lbf/ft) + 33. Tighten tie bar to steering box fixings to 81 Nm (60 lbf/ft).
u. Inspect upper and lower universal joints for wear and excessive play,
v. Check LOWER STEERING SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS + STEERING COLUMN LOCK
w. Inspect universal joints for stiffness, lubricate if necessary.
36. FRONT AND REAR SUSPENSION --> CAMBIARE FOR ALZARLA UAHUAHAU
a. CHECK/TIGHTEN FRONT AND REAR AXLE SUSPENSION LINK FIXINGS, CHECK CONDITION OF MOUNTING RUBBERS
b. RICARICARLE?
37. CHECK suspension components for worn components: i.e. ball joints, panhard rod bushes, steering damper
38. Is there any looseness or worn bushes in front suspension?
a. remove all suspension dampers, test for correct operation, refit or renew as necessary
39. BRAKES:
a. BLEED BRAKES: During bleed procedure, brake fluid level must not be allowed to fall below the MIN level + One break at the time from guidatore to passengero to ruote piu lontana dal union point del tubo freno xke piu aria rimane nel tubo piu lungo
i. Break fluid to be changed every 2 years (FULL BLEADING TO BE DONE) --> (SEE DEEPDIVE)
b. Check thickness of brake pads, and renew if thickness is less than 3,00 mm (0.12 in). -->Always fit new pads as complete axle sets
i. TO CHANGE: Clean exposed parts of pistons, using new brake fluid. Wipe away excess with a lint free cloth. +Using piston clamp LRT-70-500 press each piston back into its bore.
c. CONDITION OF DISCS: Check total disc run out, this must not exceed 0,15 mm (0.006 in) + This dimension may be machined to minimum thickness of 12 mm
d. Freno a mano fix - in pdf dice come sistemarlo
e. Hydraulic brake fluid. --> 2 YRS hydraulic brake fluid should be completely renewed --> all hydraulic brake fluid seals and flexible hoses should be renewed
f. FIX HANDBRAKE (TRASMISSION BRAKE)
G.Cable adjustment is for a new cable or to compensate for cable stretch. Cable adjustment must not be used to take up brake shoe wear.
ii. BRAKE SHOES ARE OK? If new brake shoes are to be fitted, the springs should also be renewed
THANKS VERY VERY MUCH to whoever got here and is able/willing to support :angel:
Some of you might remember the other thread I opened last year when I was trying to get my hands on this Defender: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/newreply.php'do=newreply&noquote=1&p=2386810
Well..finaly I did it! I got the Landy after a very long back and forth! It's the best vehicle I could have gotten here in West Africa and I will now work to make it as great as it can be!
As per my introduction this is a 110 1996 Defender converted to 6x4 by carmichael (picture is in the other thread)- it had a 3.5 V8 that got broken and it got fixed a 1994 200TDI (yeah I know not the best for such a beast but that's an opportunity to change it with something more suitable in the future).
My dream is to now transform it into an overland vehicle that will take me from here to the rest of the world....I would like to do so in about 18 months or so... so let the fun begin!
The car has been sitting idle for something like 5 years before they changed the engine and did some general maintenance to it to use it to pass the general tests needed to transfer it from a government vehicle (it was a Ghana Fire Service Truck) to a private owned vehicle. It was used it for a month or so before I was able to put my hands on it.
I now have identified a Land Rover specialist and will take there Wheely (yes that's his name) for a first check-up. The mechanics I have shown it so far have all said that is in good conditions after the general maintenance that it got done, but still I want to do a THOROUGH check-up before i take it for a 10 days test trip in the harsh conditions of Northern Ghana.
I read the 450 pages of the 1996 Land Rover Workshop Manual (publication number LRL0097ENG) and have summarised what are the things that I want to be checked up. It might be too much for the forum but I will give it a try (:wasntme:)....hopefully this could also be useful to someone else in the future as it's quite comprehensive!
I would really appreciate if you could tell me in your opinion what are the most important/urgent ones to do before the test trip....The mechanics here in Africa need a lot of guidance :cool: and I could really do with some support here!
Enjoy the read:
1. CHECKS
a. VISUALLY CHECK BRAKE, FUEL, CLUTCHHOSES/PIPES/UNIONS FOR CHAFING, LEAKS AND CORROSION
b. CHECK FOR FLUID LEAKS FROM POWER STEERING AND SUSPENSION SYSTEMS, HYDRAULIC PIPES AND UNIONS FOR CHAFING AND CORROSION
2. OTHER
a. Swivel pin housing oil -->if there is a level and drain plug
b. LUBRICATE PROPELLER SHAFT UNIVERSAL AND SLIDING JOINTS --> SANDY CONDITIONS --> Under tropical or severe conditions, particularly where sand is encountered, the sliding joints must be lubricated very frequently to prevent ingress of abrasive material.
3. ENGINE CHECKS
a. Camshaft drive belt --> CHECK --> RENEW EVERY 6 OR 3 YEARS
b. OIL CHANGE
i. engine oil sump drain plug
c. FIX speedometer and odometer
d. All working surfaces of the master cylinder and caliper cylinders should be examined and renewed where necessary.
e. VALVE CLEARANCES - CHECK AND ADJUST
f. CYLINDER COMPRESSION TEST (NEEDED Fit dummy injector, from diesel compression tester kit LRT-19-007) --> Expected readings of a crank test, with vehicle battery fully charged, compression ratio 19.5:1 should be 24 bar (348 lbf/in2). --> If compression is appreciably less than correct reading, or varies by more than 10%, piston rings or valves may be worn or damaged. Low pressures in adjoining cylinders may indicate a faulty cylinder head gasket
g. ENGINE OIL PRESSURE TEST --> Connect pressure test gauge LRT-12-052A --> With engine running at idle check oil pressure, which should read 1.76 bar (25.87 lbf/in2).
h. Apply Hylomar sealant to mating faces of bell housing and flywheel housing. (NON SON SICURO SE SI POSSA FARE - DICE QUANDO SI REFIT THE ENGINE)
i. THROTTLE CABLE adjust --> Check that throttle opens fully when the throttle is depressed. --> CAVO ACCELERATORE? DA CAMBIARE?
i. THROTTLE PEDAL ADJUSTMENT --> adjust --. Depedend on throttle cable adjustment --> CAN DO MYSELF
j. EGR THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR --> check
k. LOW AND HIGH IDLE SPEED ADJUSTMENT --> check
l. INJECTION PUMP TIMING - CHECK AND ADJUST
m. TURBOCHARGER BOOST PRESSURE - CHECK
n. PRIMING THE FUEL SYSTEM (Sedimentor and fuel filter + Fuel injection pump
o. DRAIN + Clean FUEL SEDIMENTOR --> dependent on primingfuel system
p. Clean FUEL FILTER ASSEMBLY
q. CHECK CARB CONDITION
r. CHECK TURBOCHARGER OIL FEED PIPE + TURBOCHARGER OIL DRAIN PIPE
s. Check intercooler condition and upper/lower foams + radiator
t. EGR VALVE + modulator check
u. CHECK idle speed correct?
4. COOLING SYSTEM
a. DRAIN AND REFILL COOLING SYSTEM
b. CHECK THERMOSTAT FOR OPENING AT RIGHT TEMPERATURE --> Thermostat is satisfactory if it opens between 85? - 89? C.
5. CLUTCH
a. Bleed clutch hydraulic system
b. CHECK CLUTCH CONDITION + LININGS + AIR IN HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
c. Check distance from lower edge of clutch pedal to floor. Correct measurement is 140 mm (5.50 in) without floor mat-->IS IT OK?
d. Check operation of clutch pedal and ensure that there is a minimum of 6 mm (0.25 in) of free play before pressure is felt -->IS IT OK?
6. Gearbox
7. CHANGE OIL
8. Check: The main and transfer gearboxes ventilate through nylon pipes, which terminate high up in the engine compartment to prevent water entry when the vehicle is operating in adverse conditions
9. Check lubricant specification and level
10. lubricate gear mechanism, and check selector adjustments
11. Drain lubricant and check for contamination or metal particles WITH MAGNET
12. Check condition of synchromesh unit, springs and cones for distortion and wear. Also check dog teeth for damage and cone mating surface on gear for signs of overheating.
13. GEAR CHANGE LEVER BIAS SPRING - ADJUST
14. FIFTH GEAR STOP SCREW - ADJUST --> what is it for?
15. Transfer gearbox
16. CHANGE OIL
17. Check for oil leaks --> Verify that oil leak is from transfer box and not main gearbox before proceeding with checks --> there are different tests to be done!
18. Check that yokes on both ends are aligned with arrow matching https://youtu.be/hWGM7fnMV9g't=5m30s
19. REAR AXLE
20. check the differential oil level AND SEE if to change it?
21. Check for signs of metal particles in the oil and the condition of internal seals --> with magnet
22. Check differential condition pp 185
23. FRONT AXLE
a. The differential, swivel pin housing and wheel hubs are indiviudally lubricated --> The wheel bearings are lubricated with grease and the swivel housing and differential with oil.
b. FRONT STUB AXLE, CONSTANT VELOCITY JOINT AND SWIVEL PIN HOUSING --> complicato e magari fan casino nel rimontarlo ma si puo' fare check per segni di usura
c. Check Swivel pin housing and Swivel bearing housing (Tighten to 73 Nm (54 lbf/ft) + A LOT OF GREASE TO BE APPLIED AS PER GUIDELINES)--> Coat swivel bearing housing to axle casing bolts with Loctite 270 + Coat both sides of joint washer with a sealing compound. Position swivel bearing housing to axle mating face + Fit oil seal, joint washer and retaining plate with 7 bolts and spring washers. Tighten to 11 Nm (8 lbf/ft) + Fit tie rod and drag link and secure with new cotter pins. Tighten fixing to 40 Nm (30 lbf/ft -->
d. Determine effort required to turn swivel pin housing Resistance, once initial inertia has been overcome, should be 1.16 to 1.46 kg (Attach a spring balance to ball joint bore and pull balance)
e. Fill swivel assembly to correct level, with new oil - On later vehicles fill swivel pin housing with 0.33 Litres of Molytex EP 00 grease.
24. WHEEL --> WHEN REMOVING WHEEL: Apply parking brake, select a gear in main gearbox and engage low gear in transfer box + Cambiare gomme: to close turn by hand wheel nuts for at least three full threads before using any form of wheel wrench.
25. Balance wheel and tyre cupping assembly
26. wheel alignment
a. check FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT
27. Balance wheel and tyre cupping assembly
a. Check status of wheel bearings --> When taking off the wheel and replacing it clean it properly and apply some copper slip --> Left middle tire moves (tremola) when in motion
28. Wheel bearings --> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4A9MTOOC60 --> to regrease --> Holding inner race between finger and thumb of one hand, spin outer race and check that it revolves absolutely smoothly. Repeat, holding outer race and spinning inner race. 4. Rotate outer ring gently with a reciprocating motion, while holding inner ring; feel for any check or obstruction to rotation, and reject bearing if action is not perfectly smooth.
a. LE GOMME ANTERIORI DEVO ESSERE LEGGERMENTE TOE-OUT COSI ANDANDO SI METTONO PARALELE E CONSUMANO MENO GOMMA
29. Fit road wheel, remove axle stands and tighten
30. road wheel nuts to correct torque:
31. Alloy wheels - 130 Nm (96 lbf/ft)
32. Steel wheels - 100 Nm (80 lbf/ft)
33. Heavy duty wheels - 170 Nm (125 lbf/ft)
34. Steering:
a. CHECK/TIGHTEN STEERING UNIT AND STEERING ROD BALL JOINT FIXINGS, CHECK CONDITION OF BALL JOINTS AND DUST COVERS (Ball joints are lubricated for life during manufacture and require no further lubrication unless the rubber boot has been dislodged or damaged + Check for wear in joints by moving ball joint up and down vigorously. If free movement is apparent, fit a new joint assembly
b. Ensure that road wheels, steering box and steering wheel are correctly positioned relative to each other when in straight ahead condition.
c. Set steering lock stop bolts
d. steering has power assistance? Fluid level correct? Leak? Need to bleed? Drive belt tension correct? --> carry out pressure test at idle and 1000 rev/min. -> With system in good condition, pressures should be: (A) Steering wheel held on full lock and engine running at 1,000 rev/min, 70 to 77 kgf/cm2. (B) Steering wheel held on full lock and engine idling, 28 kgf/cm2.
e. Check the condition operation of the hydraulic steering damper
f. Is there any looseness or free play in the steering ball joints and linkage?
g. Check universal joints for seizure and correct alignment
h. Check power steering box adjustments
i. Is there any looseness or free play in the steering ball joints and linkage
j. Check fluid level pression to be correct
k. Check condition of ball joints and the lower steering column shaft universal joints for wear
l. Check balance road wheels for oscilation of steering wheel?
m. Check the steering hydraulic damper function
n. Check steering column universal joints for wear and correct alignment\
o. Check steering linkage ball joints for wear,correct alignment and security, including steering box and tie rod
p. Check all front suspension rubbers for wear.
q. Check all fixing torques, including radius arm bushes, panhard rod and anti-roll bar
r. Check the hub bearing end floats and determine the condition of the hub bearing
s. Check the resistance and condition of the swivels
t. If Vehicle veers, not under braking, swap front tyres side to side. If Vehicle veers under braking, bleed brake
35. system.
a. Recentralise steering box needed??
b. Is oil escaping from filler cap? bleed system !
c. If leaking check if Are hoses or joints leaking? Check on full lock with engine at 2000 rev/min. if Does leak remain change PAS pipe.
d. Is noise a squeal on full lock? YES - checkdrive belt tension and remove belt if necessary
e. STIFF STEARING: With engine off, centralise steering wheel, and remove steering wheel decal. Using torque wrench on column nut, check torque required to turn the steering wheel one turn in each direction. Record readings obtained in each direction. Reading should be 4.40 Nm (3.5 lbf/ft). If figures are in excess of that specified carry out steering box tie bar reset (CHECK HOW TO DO IT).
f. Steering shaft universal joint lubrication.? with an anti-seizure type penetrating spray.
g. Road springs - check that road springs are correctly seated
h. Ride height - measure trim height from wheel entre to wheelarch eyebrow. Record results on data sheet.
i. Check/top up power steering fluid --> Check that fluid level is at maximum level + Run engine to normal operating temperature+ Recheck reservoir fluid level, top up if necessary + With engine at idle speed, slacken bleed screw. When fluid seeps past bleed screw retighten screw and clean up
j. With engine running, test steering system for leaks by holding steering in both full lock directions. --> (no more than 30 secs) --> Check hose connections, pump and steering box for fluid leaks by holding steering on full lock in both directions.
k. Check tension and condition of drive belt Track rod/drag link - check condition of track rod, drag link and ball joints
l. Suspension bushes - examine all steering and suspension bushes for signs of wear and deterioration. Also check all fixings for torque relaxation
m. Oil leaks - check front and rear axle hubs for leak and repair as necessary.
n. Hub end float - check movement in the hubs by rocking the wheels.
o. inspecting steering linkages and ball joints for wear + Check ball joint assemblies for seizure i.e. no movement on ball joint and associated assemblies +
p. Drag link adjust LH drive vehicles - if steering wheel is to right, drag link is too short. If steering wheel is to left drag link is too long
q. STEERING LOCK STOPS: Measure clearance between tyre wall and radius arm at full lock. This must be not less than 20 mm ( adjust instructions in pdf)
r. Check tightness of clamp bolt fixings. Tighten to 14 Nm (10lbf/ft)
s. Measure toe-out at horizontal centre-line of wheels with Recognised front wheel alignment and tracking equipment
t. Tighten tie bar to mounting nut to 110 Nm (81 lbf/ft) + 33. Tighten tie bar to steering box fixings to 81 Nm (60 lbf/ft).
u. Inspect upper and lower universal joints for wear and excessive play,
v. Check LOWER STEERING SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS + STEERING COLUMN LOCK
w. Inspect universal joints for stiffness, lubricate if necessary.
36. FRONT AND REAR SUSPENSION --> CAMBIARE FOR ALZARLA UAHUAHAU
a. CHECK/TIGHTEN FRONT AND REAR AXLE SUSPENSION LINK FIXINGS, CHECK CONDITION OF MOUNTING RUBBERS
b. RICARICARLE?
37. CHECK suspension components for worn components: i.e. ball joints, panhard rod bushes, steering damper
38. Is there any looseness or worn bushes in front suspension?
a. remove all suspension dampers, test for correct operation, refit or renew as necessary
39. BRAKES:
a. BLEED BRAKES: During bleed procedure, brake fluid level must not be allowed to fall below the MIN level + One break at the time from guidatore to passengero to ruote piu lontana dal union point del tubo freno xke piu aria rimane nel tubo piu lungo
i. Break fluid to be changed every 2 years (FULL BLEADING TO BE DONE) --> (SEE DEEPDIVE)
b. Check thickness of brake pads, and renew if thickness is less than 3,00 mm (0.12 in). -->Always fit new pads as complete axle sets
i. TO CHANGE: Clean exposed parts of pistons, using new brake fluid. Wipe away excess with a lint free cloth. +Using piston clamp LRT-70-500 press each piston back into its bore.
c. CONDITION OF DISCS: Check total disc run out, this must not exceed 0,15 mm (0.006 in) + This dimension may be machined to minimum thickness of 12 mm
d. Freno a mano fix - in pdf dice come sistemarlo
e. Hydraulic brake fluid. --> 2 YRS hydraulic brake fluid should be completely renewed --> all hydraulic brake fluid seals and flexible hoses should be renewed
f. FIX HANDBRAKE (TRASMISSION BRAKE)
G.Cable adjustment is for a new cable or to compensate for cable stretch. Cable adjustment must not be used to take up brake shoe wear.
ii. BRAKE SHOES ARE OK? If new brake shoes are to be fitted, the springs should also be renewed
THANKS VERY VERY MUCH to whoever got here and is able/willing to support :angel: