98 petrol Freelander no key!

[LukeA]

Hey Guys,

While being new to the whole Land Rover scene, I've just dived into a pretty good project (hopefully...). We have a 98 Freelander- petrol- that's been sitting on the block here for years, it has no key, and I'm trying to get her started so we can see what the go is. So we've gotten as far as getting power on, we have lights on the dash. Basically we dismantled the barrel and are using the ignition switch for power. Note that it has the coil around the key hole I've seen mentioned before.

However I'm sure there is some sort of immobiliser activated. The red light stays on while key is on start, flashes when key's off. No voltage to starter solenoid.

I've spoken with land rover today, they can give me the EKA, so it could be an option to somehow use the door key barrel switches to enter the code? Another option would be to find and bypass the immobiliser somehow.

Can anyone tell me where is the immobiliser for this model? I'm having a pretty hard time finding any info about it. Also can anyone tell me is it just the starter that's immobilised? If so it'll be easy to rewire that.

Thanks a lot. Really wanna hear this beast fire up!

Cheers,
Luke

[Roverlord off road spares]

Hi Luke, best you post this in Freelander 1 section, you might get a better responses.

[LukeA]

Hey Guys,

While being new to the whole Land Rover scene, I've just dived into a pretty good project (hopefully...). We have a 98 Freelander- petrol- that's been sitting on the block here for years, it has no key, and I'm trying to get her started so we can see what the go is. So we've gotten as far as getting power on, we have lights on the dash. Basically we dismantled the barrel and are using the ignition switch for power. Note that it has the coil around the key hole I've seen mentioned before.

However I'm sure there is some sort of immobiliser activated. The red light stays on while key is on start, flashes when key's off. No voltage to starter solenoid.

I've spoken with land rover today, they can give me the EKA, so it could be an option to somehow use the door key barrel switches to enter the code? Another option would be to find and bypass the immobiliser somehow.

Can anyone tell me where is the immobiliser for this model? I'm having a pretty hard time finding any info about it. Also can anyone tell me is it just the starter that's immobilised? If so it'll be easy to rewire that.

Thanks a lot. Really wanna hear this beast fire up!

Sorry, I'd originally posted this in tech discussion, but have moved it here.

Cheers,
Luke

[Roverlord off road spares]

Hi Luke, welcome to the Land Rover scene. I must say You certainly picked a challenging first Land Rover project to get into.
Sadly, The Freelander 1 1.8 petrols are what the Camira were to Holden.

I don't want to be a kill joy, just giving some advice Before you get to deep into it. Check it's history of why it ended up on the block.
They are notorious for blown engines caused by overheated heads. Other problems are the IRD, they are usually broken and had parts removed to make them 2 wheel drive.

If you can get your self a copy of the RAVE CD that covers the wiring diagram and component locations you will find a wealth of information.

[woko]

The immobilizer is part of the CCU which is part of the fuse box under the steering wheel.
The engine ecu will also be immobilized.
You can use the EKA code but it will need to be reentered every time you want to start it.
You need a remote to disable the immobilizer

Sent from my GT-I9295 using AULRO mobile app

[LukeA]

Hey Guys,

Thanks for your replies. Hmmm That doesnt sound promising. From what I can gather about the history it did have overheating problems... Is there any way to tell if its blown without the motor running? Compression test i suppose?

Woko - Ive read in other models there is an alarm module which may be able to be re wired and bypassed, could this be the case here? Or you are sure that it can only be done with a remote to turn off the immobiliser? Even if I have the EKA it would be a pain in the ass to enter it each time.

I'm downloading the RAVE files at the moment, thanks.

Cheers

[Tins]

First, I must say that I am no expert on security systems in general, or Freelanders in particular.

Now, yes, you have run into the immobiliser. I can't see how the EKA will help, as it requires you to cycle the door locks in a specific sequence, and to do that you need a key....

So, I reckon you need a key fob, with it's barcode if poss, and a Nanocom or similar.

LAND ROVER FREELANDER & DISCOVERY KEY REMOTE FOB YWX101220L QTY 1 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LAND-ROVER-FREELANDER-DISCOVERY-KEY-REMOTE-FOB-YWX101220L-QTY-1/142120198638?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%2 6asc%3D39923%26meid%3D1dc6f70827b343ec871ca8ffb139 94c6%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D3221 12670660)

There is a list here somewhere of folk who have Nanocom or similar. Not sure how you'll go in the Kimberley, but hey, we are a big community! With a fob and a nanocom I reckon you'll get by the immobiliser and she'll go.

[woko]

If it has got hot it will have a blown head gasket. These engine can not handle any over heating.
The biggest problem when they overheat is the liners can drop in the block. I wouldn't even bother trying to start if you know it was over heating. Remove the head and measure the liner heights. They have to protrude above the deck of the block. If they are below the deck, the block is rubbish. DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE OVER WITH HEAD REMOVED. This can dislodge the liners. There are modifications for head gasket failure. A PRT thermostat. A new design head gasket. A strengthened oil rail.

The imobilizer is part of the CCU (the BCU) no separate module ( the later models do). It links to the engine ecu via a data link and sends a coded signal. The 2 ecu have to be mated to work. It can't be bypassed. Having the key wont get it to start without EKA. You need the remote aswell.

Sent from my GT-I9295 using AULRO mobile app

[101RRS]

Because of their bad history, these 1.8 Freelanders are worth nothing even if the engine does run - just not worth spending any money on them which is sad because other than the engine they were a fine car. I had a 2.0 diesel XEDI for 10 years and it was great, comfortable and reliable but because of the rotton 1.8s the whole brand suffered.

Wreck it and you might make a couple of hundred particularly if the IRD and rest of the drivetrain are OK.

[sierrafery]

Freelander 1 has a complicated immobiliser, it inhibits the engine ECU too not just the starter, the simple way to fix this is to buy a remote fob, remobilise it with EKA to be able to drive it where you can plug in a dedicated tester and synk the fob, nanocom can't do that cos there's no nanocom coverage for Fl1 nor other "domestic" tools can work with the security system... it's a Testbook T4 or specific key programming tool job

some info here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/freelander-1/107445-disabling-engine-immobilizer-99-freelander-diesel-2.html

[PhilipA]

Wouldn't it be cheaper to go to a wrecker and buy an ECU and key/s and a lock barrel.

I know they are few and far between in Oz but there would be a boatload in the UK.
You may then have the wrong kilos on the car but that should be easily fixed or ignored, seeing that they are old and worth nothing anyway.
Regards Philip A

[sierrafery]

It would need the engine ECU + CCU + fobs from the same car otherwise it won't work without complex programming anyway and IMO if it's about programming a fob is enough after the vehicle was remobilised with EKA code

[Roverlord off road spares]

Wreck it and you might make a couple of hundred particularly if the IRD rest of the drive train are OK.
There would be a demand for a working IRD, as there are a lot of broken ones out there and sellers trying to get rid of their vehicles usually write in their ads " converted to 2wd drive for economy".:eek:

[Roverlord off road spares]

Have a look on ebay type in search "wrecking Freelander" thefe at least a dozen on there at the moment.

[pop058]

Merged your 2 thread :)

[PhilipA]

Before you go any further why don't you hot wire the starter and do a compression test.
You are no doubt aware that many /most Freelander petrols blew head gaskets.

It probably is not worth going further if that is the case. Oh and look underneath to see if it has a driveshaft.

Regards Philip A

[LukeA]

Hey Guys,

Thanks for all your replies. I'm not sure I completely understand the whole "fob" thing, but is it possible to have land rover or someone program a key for this vehicle and send it over?
Also is there a chance that maybe the vehicle is not immobilised at all? All the fuses have been ripped out so next step is probably replace all fuses and see what happens.
We will also either run a compression test or just take the head off and have a look.
Woko - are the liners you referred to the cylinder linings or what?
Not really looking at wrecking it, we are in a remote area so if we can't start it, it'll be getting skull dragged out to the vehicle graveyard and left to rot! I just want it for a bush basher really. I'm definitely not looking to spend much or any money on it.

Thanks,
Luke

[sierrafery]

Hey Guys,

.... is it possible to have land rover or someone program a key for this vehicle and send it over?
....
It's not possible cos LR cand deliver only blank key eventually give you the code for the blade to be cut by a specialist but the fob must be paired with the CCU on the vehicle...IMO a shop with dedicated key programming tool can synk a new fob for you not necessary main dealer

[LukeA]

Hmm well that's definitely outta the question, the nearest town that may have that service (Broome) is over 500kms away!

[sierrafery]

In this case maybe it's better for you to buy a tool like this http://www.obd2tool.com/goods-3267-SBB+Key+Programmer+Updated+Newest+Version+V33.html (Freelander 98 is on the coverage list) get yourself fixed then sell it a bit cheaper on ebay or launch yourself in the key programming business and make money with it :cool:

[101RRS]

Also be aware that UK frequencies for UK security systems are different to ours so beware of getting stuff in the UK - Aussie frequencies are available there you just need to know what you are doing.

As mentioned the immobiliser is not a separate item - it is integrated into the ECU/BCU so if you bypass it you bypass the the ECU so engine no go.

I have has to use the EKA route when I got a dry joint in my fob - takes about 15 minutes all up turning the door key one way and the other with the required rest time between each movement.

If you have an old landrover 4 cylinder engine lying around you might be able to get an adaptor plate from the UK to bolt it up and bypass the electronic all together. In the UK they put the Perkins Prima Diesel (non electronic Freelander diesel) into series stuff so you may be able to go the other way.

[DeanoH]

Luke, at the risk of sounding cruel and heartless :eek: the petrol FL1 was a POS when it was brand new. A disaster just waiting to happen mainly due to its absolutely awful engine, though the transmission/drive train is nothing to write home about either. It's 1.8 litre petrol engine actually makes Nissans ZD30 diesel look good :o even though this engine is the 'lay down misere' winner of the worst 4WD engine ever. The reason is because there are still working ZD30 engines out there.

To spend time and effort not to mention money on an absolute POS like an 18 year old FL1 with known overheating problems will only end in tears.

Find yourself an old D1, diesel if possible, as they'll be pretty cheap up your way in the 'Land of the Long White Toyota' and use this as a starting point. At least the D1 has an off road capability unlike the FL1 which would make a bloody awful bush basher even if you could get one to go.

In short, don't waste your time with a petrol FL1, start with a decent 4WD vehicle, anything really, but not a petrol FL1.

Deano :)

[101RRS]

There is actually nothing wrong with the 1.8 engine - it was the external thermostat system - stated closed over heating the engine and when it opened sent so much cold water into the overly hot engine causing thermal shock to the engine.

2nd hand dealers here used to remove the thermostats when the vehicles were in the car yard and put them back in when the vehicle sold.

The same engine was in a number of other cars - MG and Lotus and had far less issues in them - but if the engine gets over heated the liners drop and heads/blocks can crack with the thermal shock like most alloy engines suffer if overheated.

But I agree - as said earlier even if running these are worth nothing - is not cost effective to do anything on them - running diesels are a different matter - still worth a bit