Holden Red Heater Hoses

[Dark61]

Hello - I had a play with Darwin today and decided to remove the heater and attendant hoses - very agricultural - a cross between domestic plumbing and ag pipe connectors off your water tank.
So is it OK to blank the outlet and inlet or should I take a pipe from one to the other? If blanking off is there an alternative to some kind of hose barb from the auto shop ? Its a 3/4 hose. If you have done something similar I would be pleased to hear from you.
All suggestions gratefully received as usual.
cheers,
D

[bbart]

You've probably got this sorted by now. I had to remove my heater a while ago and just joined the hoses together with a bit of copper pipe inside and some hose clamps. Heater core has been repaired now, but I probably won't get around to putting it back on until after summer now. It's 37 degrees in Bendigo today! :eek:

[Dark61]

Thanks for replying. I'm hearing you about the heat. I capped the inlet/outlet pipes off with short lengths of heater hose, brass bungs and some hose clamps. It's just for work around the land - it's not going back on the road. I couldn't really see any issues with it but I thought I would ask.
Cheers,
D

[Homestar]

Late to the party here - I missed this one. Yes, no dramas with what you did. When the heater in the old mans HQ crapped itself, that's all we did - it did another 100,000 miles like that - bloody freezing in the winter though...

Dad just kept a rag to wipe the window with and told us to put a jacket on. :D

[Davehoos]

Holden use a pipe for the bypass circuit. often they originally use the heater as a by pass with out a heater tap.


old red motors use pipes on the left side to heat the manifold in freezing conditions. some use this circuit for the heater and will require a short loop to act as a by pass , others use port in the rear of the head and fitting on the water pump and these can be plugged.


blue motor and 12 port heads and some others use the outlet on the right hand side and return to the water pump. without a heat they require this short hose. these often don't have the small hole drilled in the block or head to allow the other by pass ideas to work.

[mick88]

Not necessary but probably best to have it bypassing so that it keeps the water circulating and you get an even temperature in the block before the thermostat opens and I expect it would make it a bit nicer to drive whilst it's warming up to operating temperature. Especially in Tassie's cold climate.
Do you have a water heated inlet manifold?


Cheers, Mick.

[Dark61]

Thanks I have capped it off temporarily as I didn't have a piece of hose long enough . I don't know if I have a water heated inlet manifold or not? I'm not used to the engine and have found it a lot harder to track down info than for the Rover. I'm in the process of getting the guard off to make it easier to get to the starter motor.
cheers,
D

[mick88]

Thanks I have capped it off temporarily as I didn't have a piece of hose long enough . I don't know if I have a water heated inlet manifold or not? I'm not used to the engine and have found it a lot harder to track down info than for the Rover. I'm in the process of getting the guard off to make it easier to get to the starter motor.
cheers,
D


Hi "D"
you do have a water heated manifold with hoses attached as I could see it on a photo you posted of the engine on another thread. With regards to the starter motor if it is a Bosch one which red Holden motors mostly had, they are very durable and last dam near forever, so pull it down, a good clean out, new bushes, a set of brushes and it should be good for years.


Cheers, Mick.

[Dark61]

Goodo - understood re the starter motor. I was successful with the one on the 109 so feeling confident with the Holden one. Thanks for the heads up with the heated inlet manifold.
Cheers,
D