Are you winching with steel cable or rope?

[NT5224]

OK ladies and gents

My apologies because I know this issue goes round and round and has been done to death.

I have steel coiled around my winch drum and although it works perfectly (I actually use it lots!) I'm conscious of the weight out there forward of Hector's front axle. Despite his heavy duty 130 springs, I'm sure his nose is drooping a bit.

So I'm considering for reasons of weight -and also for safety- making the switch to some ghastly coloured rope...

So what do you experts recommend? Those who have switched to rope, and actually use it , how would you rate against steel? What are the pros and cons of steel vrs rope? Indeed, are there any cons to rope at all?

I've never really given it much thought. Hector was delivered to me from the dealer with cable on the WARN and so it was never a deliberate choice on my part.

Cheers

Alan

[dromader driver]

Lots of varying ropes around. What do you want considered?

[Ashleylipus]

Ive run both rope and cable. Ive got cable on my perentie at the moment but my previous 4x4s ive used dyneema. I haven't had to use the cable yet but ive used the rope a lot. Rope is certainly lighter. If it breaks it wont slingshot like cable. If it frays you wont spike your hands on wires. Its easier to wind back on your winch. Wire cable needs to be wound on properly otherwise when you put tension the cable sinks in between the wraps and tightens on itself and will damage the wires. Rope can be wound on messy without problems. Also cable will work harden over time.
You will need to change to hawse fairlead to run rope
Wire will rust over time if not maintained. The galvanising will rub off with use and you need to keep it oiled with lanotec or grease it.

[Disco-tastic]

OK ladies and gents

My apologies because I know this issue goes round and round...

Don't apologise for puns! [emoji12]

Sorry, i have nothing constructive to add...

[Slunnie]

My opinion is that if you're not winching regularly then to stay with the steel. I say this because the steel doesn't degrade with age and UV light like the rope does. Interesting comments about steel rusting as mine has never rusted but I don't live near salt air.

If you are winching regularly and spend a bit of time actively using and maintaining the winch, then go to the rope as it lighter on the 4WD and to pull, is safer if it breaks and it can be retied on the run if it does break, but you will find quickly that it is also susceptible to abrasion from dirt getting into it and from rubbing on the ground and on rocks.

Steel cable scores everything it touches, and this will tear the rope, so I would also be reluctant to change a winch over from steel to rope, or at the very least repair the winch drum of all damage from the steel and replace the fairlead (with one that has a lot of roller overlap or with a hawse)

[Discofever]

As Sunnie says the only drawback to rope is that it is recommended that you wash it after use, which, if your using it regularly might be a pain. It does only take 10 mins though. Rope also fades with sunlight if exposed constantly, I'm not sure if this actually weakens the fibers though. If it's tucked away then sunlight UV isn't an issue. It is perishable on rocks etc.

I switched to rope from steel due to weight [made a massive difference]. Rope is way safer it it breaks, is supposedly stronger than steel and can be spliced as well.

Happy travels

[mfc]

Anyone know what sort of lifespan dynema has by chance?
Ive got rope on mine but sometimes feel wire will take more abuse.
Rope for me came down to the fact that I travel alone a lot and it's less of a handfull

[weeds]

started with steel than replaced with rope.....I have a pto


I have never owned an electric winch but do read that you have to be careful when winching out under load with heat build up from the brake on an electric......not an issue when winching in under load, I think some electric winch have in internal brake and others have an external (keep in mind I have never owned an electric) happy to be corrected


I'm not convince you need to change to a hawse type fairlead, id the roller overlap and there are not sharp bits than I would run rollers.........with my set it had a cast iron hawse fairlead for the steel rope, it was a problem as it wasn't as wide as the drum. when I changed over to rope I had a custom hawse fairlead made by nugget


you still need to be a bit careful when laying rope onto your drum, you need to criss-cross it otherwise it will pull through to the bottom of the drum and be a bitch to get out


my rope is rarely used, I started removing it after each trip, washed it and stored in the garage.......it look like new and doesn't sit in the sun all day. It also makes you check the winch before each trip when you wind it on.....a number of time I have seen owners go to use there electric winch once stuck only to find it has a fault.......generally less things to go wrong with a PTO.


I reasonably comfortable when I'm winching myself as the rope doesn't slide/run over rocks.....when winching other in be mindful of where the rope runs over hard surfaces.


I posted a thread on how I selected my rope........than didn't follow my own recommendation


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/recovery/178841-how-i-selected-my-synthetic-rope.html

[mfc]

started with steel than replaced with rope.....I have a pto


I have never owned an electric winch but do read that you have to be careful when winching out under load with heat build up from the brake on an electric......not an issue when winching in under load, I think some electric winch have in internal brake and others have an external (keep in mind I have never owned an electric) happy to be corrected


I'm not convince you need to change to a hawse type fairlead, id the roller overlap and there are not sharp bits than I would run rollers.........with my set it had a cast iron hawse fairlead for the steel rope, it was a problem as it wasn't as wide as the drum. when I changed over to rope I had a custom hawse fairlead made by nugget


you still need to be a bit careful when laying rope onto your drum, you need to criss-cross it otherwise it will pull through to the bottom of the drum and be a bitch to get out


my rope is rarely used, I started removing it after each trip, washed it and stored in the garage.......it look like new and doesn't sit in the sun all day. It also makes you check the winch before each trip when you wind it on.....a number of time I have seen owners go to use there electric winch once stuck only to find it has a fault.......generally less things to go wrong with a PTO.


I reasonably comfortable when I'm winching myself as the rope doesn't slide/run over rocks.....when winching other in be mindful of where the rope runs over hard surfaces.


I posted a thread on how I selected my rope........than didn't follow my own recommendation


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/recovery/178841-how-i-selected-my-synthetic-rope.html


You're on the money re internal/ external brake with rope, unfortunately I ant recall which one is a no no and melts rope
Someone will pipe in who knows more than my old brain can store now days

[rangieman]

You're on the money re internal/ external brake with rope, unfortunately I ant recall which one is a no no and melts rope
Someone will pipe in who knows more than my old brain can store now days

Winching out under load for a while will melt rope ;)

[Jesters Td5]

I went from steel rope to dynema for the exact reasons mentioned, weight reduction and repairable in middle of now where as I am normally alone out there. Have used both. To be honest have not had issues with either. In some instances would have preferred to have had my steel as it would have been easier (no need to worry about edges of rocks etc) but the weight difference is huge. Careful planning and using of pullies (rated of course) to change angles etc I have never frayed or damaged my dynema.

Now to find a tree so I can touch some wood, going out this weekend and don't want this post to come back and bite me!

Sent from my A51f using AULRO mobile app

[Baytown]

ARB quoted me around $1000 to change from steel to Dynema on my Warn 10,000lb winch.
I'd like to loose the weight but even I can't justify that.
I winch very rarely.
Ken

[Aaron IIA]

Rope is way safer it it breaks, is supposedly stronger than steel and can be spliced as well.

Steel wire rope can be spliced.

Aaron

[Slunnie]

ARB quoted me around $1000 to change from steel to Dynema on my Warn 10,000lb winch.
I'd like to loose the weight but even I can't justify that.
I winch very rarely.
Ken
I would do a search for Dyneema or Dynamica, you will buy it for significantly less than that!

8mmx30m $225 (6600kg Break)
10mmx30m $300 (10700Kg Break)
Dyneema SK75 | Dyneema | Sydney Rope (http://www.sydneyrope.com.au/dyneema-sk75)

Dynamica Rope Packs
Rope packs include a blumber style splice with wear protector around the loop, a 2 metre rope protector sleeve, and steel crimp to attach rope to the winch drum. Sizes
8mm x 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50 metre lengths – Break 16060lbs
10mm x 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50 metre lengths – Break 21560lbs
11mm x 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50 metre lengths – Break 27940lbs
12mm x 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50 metre lengths – Break 35200lbs
http://dynamicarope.com/ropes-accessories/

[Graeme]

I replaced 30m of wire with 40m of 8mm rope for only occasional use.

[Baytown]

Just out of interest, what is the average weight saving by going to synthetic?

[XDrive]

There are a few mistakes which need to be corrected in this thread. Steel Cable and Synthetic Rope both require proper storage after use, this includes making sure that both are wound onto the drum in a specific manner. Synthetic Rope although containing no loose 'wire strands' to catch bare skin can be just as dangerous when used without gloves due to the fact that sticks and sharp objects can be trapped in the fibres and if passed through your hand can cut just as easily as a loose wire strand causing similar damage to your hands.
Synthetic Rope does not require a Hawse Fairlead and can be used with a Roller Fairlead without incident. Not all winch drums are compatible with Synthetic Rope, you need to check with the winch manufacturer to ensure that your winch is compatible. This is due to the design of the braking mechanism and also the fact that Synthetic Rope can place significantly more clamping force on the drum, potentially crushing the drum. Wire Rope can be spliced. If you are buying Synthetic Rope due to the fact that you can make repairs, then you are placing too much emphasis on something that should potentially never occur. A synthetic rope breaking under tension may not have the same recoil effect as Steel Cable but the resultant damage will be similar when your vehicle rolls backwards down the hill you were trying to winch over. You should not be powering out for any length of time that would potentially build heat in the drum that could melt synthetic rope. Electric Winches fitted to vehicles are not hoist and should not be used as such.There are Pros and Cons to any setup and you need to weigh up your usage carefully. Personally I have steel cable on my winch with Synthetic Rope extensions. Prior to spending money on changing items on your winch, you should invest in undertaking a winch course which will inform you of the correct way in which to utilise the equipment. We undertake winch / recovery courses as specialised one day intensive training courses which also focus on winch load calculations thus avoiding mishaps.
You are welcome to contact me to discuss this further
Regards
XDrive

[Slunnie]

Rope and steel shouldn't break, but the reality is that they do break. Rope you can tie back together and keep winching.

[Toxic_Avenger]

ARB quoted me around $1000 to change from steel to Dynema on my Warn 10,000lb winch.
I'd like to loose the weight but even I can't justify that.
I winch very rarely.
Ken

If you buy lengths of dyneema, you will need to splice the thimble on one end, and the loop for securing on the drum on the other.
It's a 1 hour job with a few beers easy. The dyneema splices constrict on themselves under tension, so it's way easier than splicing other types of braided rope.
This is likely where a lot of the mark up comes from.

[Baytown]

I think they also included the new fairlead, a flip up number plate bracket and as Toxic mentioned, tow eye, hence the cost. I'm wondering if I might consider a new Warn Zeon 10 with Dynema, and sell my virginal current unit. Might be cost effective.