Ashcroft ATB/Torsen Diff Front, Centre & Rear Install

[Beery]

Christmas has come early this year. In the form of 42kgs of Ashcroft's finest to go in my 130.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Can't fault them on the packaging one bit. It was all nicely strapped down to a small skid when I picked it up.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/



The MT82 Output Shaft kit. Not even sure if mine is worn, but doing it as a preventative measure.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

The thing that struck me most was just how big the centre diff is compared to the axle diffs. Bloody heavy as well.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/


All immaculately finished as you'd expect for the price.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

I got one of the first 130's to be optioned with ABS/ETC/DSC so I'm figuring these diffs will compliment it well.

Now I just need to find the right person to set it all up for me. Prepared to travel within NSW to get the job done.
Who's got a suggestion?

[PAT303]

OK,as no one else will admit it,we are all jealous as hell. Pat

[Beery]

Haha good! I've been envious of everyone else's stories of installing ATB's for a couple of years.

It was a big leap to finally hit the 'go' button.

[alittlebitconcerned]

I have an Ashcroft ATB in the front end, and that was a major step up.
Congrats on your weaponised 130.

[dazzler]

Christmas has come early this year. In the form of 42kgs of Ashcroft's finest to go in my 130.

https://scontent-syd2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15220038_10155426108754688_6168393215028715441_n.j pg?oh=39a4a8115d7e9c13836ff802a75c6d23&oe=58BF509B

Can't fault them on the packaging one bit. It was all nicely strapped down to a small skid when I picked it up.

https://scontent-syd2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15202528_10155426109609688_1482885628996124459_n.j pg?oh=83d3a6afbc6ebd9feeb53ef6d4f119ca&oe=58F55381


https://scontent-syd2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15319104_10155426110554688_1235344081588984348_n.j pg?oh=c929f68b94ec091fe3600f3335e1f104&oe=58C8E98A


https://scontent-syd2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15193530_10155426109269688_654021177074488003_n.jp g?oh=6db9dc9696d6b3c605d9a85012408d6e&oe=58AF23EB



The MT82 Output Shaft kit. Not even sure if mine is worn, but doing it as a preventative measure.
https://scontent-syd2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15193685_10155426110584688_8061911431807762237_n.j pg?oh=602d5bda92bf0aa6c9eb8a122de18b90&oe=58F9F5BF


https://scontent-syd2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15319285_10155426109274688_1776890128271957195_n.j pg?oh=d0de2f6c916fb3c4025544408391d5f4&oe=58C929D8

The thing that struck me most was just how big the centre diff is compared to the axle diffs. Bloody heavy as well.
https://scontent-syd2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15267927_10155426109259688_308141836490521370_n.jp g?oh=bd9e52f01ffc3e724e8127f0c4c1a1d9&oe=58B15140


All immaculately finished as you'd expect for the price.

https://scontent-syd2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15317951_10155426263349688_8066483539182023405_n.j pg?oh=3bb1554c0180871f6631e15ec3126ef4&oe=58BD9B00

I got one of the first 130's to be optioned with ABS/ETC/DSC so I'm figuring these diffs will compliment it well.

Now I just need to find the right person to set it all up for me. Prepared to travel within NSW to get the job done.
Who's got a suggestion?

I am properly jealous I must admit!!

Are you able to list what you have ordered please including options? I am a bit confused what to order looking at the webesite.


What I have:

- Output shaft upgrade as preventative maintenance

What I need:
- Front and rear ATB's may be centre??

Appreciate some thoughts here as I continue to further ruggedise my truck :angel:

pd

[Beery]

I am properly jealous I must admit!!

Are you able to list what you have ordered please including options? I am a bit confused what to order looking at the webesite.


What I have:

- Output shaft upgrade as preventative maintenance

What I need:
- Front and rear ATB's may be centre??

Appreciate some thoughts here as I continue to further ruggedise my truck :angel:

pd


The order list:
2 x ATB with carrier bearings installed (Timken brand bearings)

1 x P38 Spacer ring (needed for rear diff, as the ATB is based on the Rover diff centre)

1 x LT230 ATB diff (type B)

1 x MT82 Output Shaft kit

[justinc]

Pity you're not closer. 😕.

Jc ☺

[Beery]

I have an Ashcroft ATB in the front end, and that was a major step up.
Congrats on your weaponised 130.


I'll be extremely interested to see how it drives with all 3 diffs working together. A greasy unsealed road in the wet comes to mind as a good test. Even though I'm on Michi XZL's I'd expect there to be some improvement.

Towing characteristics are also apparently improved.

[Beery]

Pity you're not closer. 😕.

Jc ☺



Don't worry Justin the same thought has crossed my mind.
I could still be swayed to travel a bit further.

Have you done many of the front/rear diffs as well?

[DazzaTD5]

Pity you're not closer. 😕.

Jc ☺

haha I was thinking the same thing, I tell customers if they want Ashcroft gear just go ahead and order it on their website, the difference between their trade price landed and retail is nothing to make a song and dance about, it also means its another thing I dont need to order/organise etc etc...

I've done a few, the centre and rear atb are awesome, the front while awesome does make the steering heavier and gives it a directness, there will be customers /owners that simply dont like that feel. Personally I'm not a fan of the change in steering but you can push it pretty hard through a roundabout in the wet going back the same way :p

As a minimum to do, I'd say do the centre diff first, which solves the poor factory preload (part of the clunk clunk) and there is no side shims to ever wear out.

Then when the rear diff goes :p do that

Very excitable Defender goodness...

Regards
Daz

[DazzaTD5]

Don't worry Justin the same thought has crossed my mind.
I could still be swayed to travel a bit further.

Have you done many of the front/rear diffs as well?

make it a parts install / holiday.

*Rover diff are simply to setup compared to a lot of other diffs, normally I see how the preload is on the diff once its on the bench, if the crown wheel and pinion are meshing good, as in.... 3 teeth should be making centre contact with the pinion, one tooth coming on, one full bite, one coming off, then all thats needed is a full set of bearings.

*As your Defender is close to last model, see if the rear axle/drive flanges are one piece, if so, all is good and you wont need to do the axle/drive flange upgrade, although putting a pair of front upgraded flanges will allow a lifetime of lubing the front.

Regards
Daz

[mfc]

Coolness... funny I spent a night of self abuse in the Ashcroft site last night lol.
Crown wheel and pinions is a strange new fetish lol, diff pegging kit for front ash locker is somthing I'm thinking of although I realy need to upgrade the axle cv setup first( stock abs cv's) makes you very thoughtfull about what you do when u flick those switches..... rears a sals with a Detroit and hightoughs so I just ignore it ...
Those blue boxes make u smile in a sad ren and stimpy way
Enjoy

[roverrescue]

Beery,
I love all that internal bling!
Hopefully you will be more speedy than me
I have had a LT230 ATB for my 130 sitting on the shed floor since I brought the truck home. Just trying to find the right time to yank the box - and figuring that the longer I wait the more probable it is that I will want to sleeve the intermediate shaft.
I have no leaks yet but a mates 110 at just a few more kays than mine is weeping at the shaft.

So I think that when I pull the case I will mod the case as per protocol ;)


Anyways - good luck on finding a good fitter. My suggestion would be:

*For the T-Case I would lean towards a landy workshop who has worked on LT230 before - the change to ATB is pie but its nice to have a shop know what it is doing with sleeving the intermediate shaft and has done the mod to the output.
*For the diffs any reputable diff or speed shop would be a good bet for setting the diffs
You will save money if you take the front and rear diffs and the ATB/ bearings and seals into the diff/speed shop and say here fit these!

Steve

[AndyG]

That my March 2017 bonus money plan.plus rear axles and 4 * flanges, should round it out nicely.
42 kg air freight or sea freight?

[grinna1965]

Hi beery if you want to take a trip to the coast near port macquarie you could give glenn a ring at momentum 4x4 i know he has done the atb & out put shaft up grade they also fit lots of lockers give them a call on 02 65853200
They will be only to happy to help you out

[mfc]

What's the big upside on the Ashcroft cdl centre upgrade?
I understand the snow and fast mud unlocked side but is that all there is to it?

[roverrescue]

What's the big upside on the Ashcroft cdl centre upgrade?
I understand the snow and fast mud unlocked side but is that all there is to it?

On my previous 300tdi I found several benefits on fast dirt, biggest improvement was no shunting of power front to rear as you applied power (especially cornering or undulating terrain) It just drove smoother unlocked on fast dirt than either the old open or locked.

In the tdci defenders, it seems the OEM centre differential mechanism has been cheapened, leading to quicker wear than ever for an LT230. The ATB forever removes the freeplay of worn shims in the centre diff.

If you dont drive fast dirt and your dont have un-accounted free play in your drive train its likely you wont have much joy from the LT230 ATB

S

[justinc]

Don't worry Justin the same thought has crossed my mind.
I could still be swayed to travel a bit further.

Have you done many of the front/rear diffs as well?

Yes. This is by far the best upgrade you can do to the lt230 and the rover 2 pin differential. Recently did a 2015 130 and found that the centre diff was of a ridiculous design... totally backward step...😠😠

[Beery]

make it a parts install / holiday.

*Rover diff are simply to setup compared to a lot of other diffs, normally I see how the preload is on the diff once its on the bench, if the crown wheel and pinion are meshing good, as in.... 3 teeth should be making centre contact with the pinion, one tooth coming on, one full bite, one coming off, then all thats needed is a full set of bearings.

*As your Defender is close to last model, see if the rear axle/drive flanges are one piece, if so, all is good and you wont need to do the axle/drive flange upgrade, although putting a pair of front upgraded flanges will allow a lifetime of lubing the front.

Regards
Daz

Thanks Daz
Mine has the seperate rear flanges. I have a feeling it was only the 90's towards the end that they used the one piece axles in.

I just can't come at the look of the HD flanges though.

I agree with the holiday/install concept. Thats what Im going for

[AndyG]

Did i read somewhere the HD flanges do not allow the alloys to be fitted, or do i have my wires crossed ?

[Bobby D]

Wow, a very happy Christmas to yourself indeed!

This has made me very excited, my LT230 ATB and R380 with HD rear support bearing should be shipped out from the UK on Monday.

Just managed to squeeze in a booking with my local Landy mechanic to get the new gearbox and a new clutch/DMF swapped over before Christmas... also getting a Td5Inside Hybrid Turbo put in, all a big whack to the back pocket. I think the LT230 ATB will have to wait until Feb or so.

Good luck with the job.

[dazzler]

Did i read somewhere the HD flanges do not allow the alloys to be fitted, or do i have my wires crossed ?

The extra spline ones foul the factory alloys unfortunately.

pd

[Beery]

Anyways - good luck on finding a good fitter. My suggestion would be:

*For the T-Case I would lean towards a landy workshop who has worked on LT230 before - the change to ATB is pie but its nice to have a shop know what it is doing with sleeving the intermediate shaft and has done the mod to the output.
*For the diffs any reputable diff or speed shop would be a good bet for setting the diffs
You will save money if you take the front and rear diffs and the ATB/ bearings and seals into the diff/speed shop and say here fit these!

Steve

Thanks Steve.
Yeah I figured a diff specialist would be the go for the front/rears. We've got a few driveline guys around here.
The pinion shouldn't have to come out should it? Or only if the thing has been that badly set up from the factory.

[Beery]

That my March 2017 bonus money plan.plus rear axles and 4 * flanges, should round it out nicely.
42 kg air freight or sea freight?

Air freight. Got here very quickly

[justinc]

Thanks Steve.
Yeah I figured a diff specialist would be the go for the front/rears. We've got a few driveline guys around here.
The pinion shouldn't have to come out should it? Or only if the thing has been that badly set up from the factory.

A salisbury rear with detroit locker will fix any upcoming issues ( and there will be with that rear diff) for ever...��

[Beery]

A salisbury rear with detroit locker will fix any upcoming issues ( and there will be with that rear diff) for ever...😎

Yeah I know. I wont go down that route though.
Despite the known P38 type diff issues, I'm sure if its properly set up and driven by myself, then I won't have problems.
Pegging might be an option and I wish Ashcroft made a HD R&P for the P38 like they do for the rover.

I was actually on the verge of just ordering two completely assembled, pegged diffs ready to bolt straight in. $$$

[Beery]

Wow, a very happy Christmas to yourself indeed!

Just managed to squeeze in a booking with my local Landy mechanic

Who is your Landy mechanic Bobby?

[Bobby D]

Who is your Landy mechanic Bobby?

A new joint that has opened up in Fyshwick called The Series Workshop. Run by a fantastic gentleman named Johnnie, he knows his stuff. Things have been working out for him, every time I drop in there seems to be more Deefers and discos there

[DazzaTD5]

A salisbury rear with detroit locker will fix any upcoming issues ( and there will be with that rear diff) for ever...��

There it is..... Justin-Salisbury-C
He is correct though, but we have covered why most Defenders dont need it :p

Regards
Daz

[DazzaTD5]

The LT230 transfer case in the Defender TDCi (puma) has changed from what was used in the earlier model Defender, Discovery 2 except the detent position for the range selection, the extra ribbing on the case, what has changed though is the method of how they were doing the preload on the centre diff. The two selective shims on each end of the diff are a one size fits all, instead of using the correct thickness to obtain a good pre-load. On every Defender TDCi I've checked the preload, they have all been very average to poor.

Add to that.... A LOT of new Defender TDCi (puma) owners are new to owning a Land Rover, let alone a Defender, and have not been shown (or read) the need to engage the centre diff lock for anything more than gravel, assuming in part that the traction control would do whats required, this in turn causes excessive wear on the copper shims on the side gears of the centre diff.

Re HTE rear axles / drive flange, they fit for the standard Defender alloy wheels, BUT the centre plastic cap wont clip on. Other alloy wheels such as what was fitted to the SVX model, also fit, but again the plastic cap wont clip on.

Regards
Daz

[ProjectDirector]

The LT230 transfer case in the Defender TDCi (puma) has changed from what was used in the earlier model Defender, Discovery 2 except the detent position for the range selection, the extra ribbing on the case, what has changed though is the method of how they were doing the preload on the centre diff. The two selective shims on each end of the diff are a one size fits all, instead of using the correct thickness to obtain a good pre-load. On every Defender TDCi I've checked the preload, they have all been very average to poor.

Add to that.... A LOT of new Defender TDCi (puma) owners are new to owning a Land Rover, let alone a Defender, and have not been shown (or read) the need to engage the centre diff lock for anything more than gravel, assuming in part that the traction control would do whats required, this in turn causes excessive wear on the copper shims on the side gears of the centre diff.

Re HTE rear axles / drive flange, they fit for the standard Defender alloy wheels, BUT the centre plastic cap wont clip on. Other alloy wheels such as what was fitted to the SVX model, also fit, but again the plastic cap wont clip on.

Regards
Daz

Daz

I have been using my 110 for the last 3 1/2 years and the diff is locked soon as I am off the bitumen. I always drove part time 4wds in the past and had to lock hubs.
I certainly have lots of back clash and axles were replaced once under warranty but now is the same crap.
I can change axles and flanges to HD now but waiting for more cash to also look at Aschroft equipment in the middle.

Cheers

[MarkM]

Hi Beery,


TO your original question, I have no experience with them other than just purchasing parts, but do you know what these guys are like as a workshop? I ask as they are reasonably close to you.


All Four X 4 Spares - Australia's 4WD Spare Parts Supermarket (http://www.allfourx4.com.au/)


Mark

[DazzaTD5]

Daz

I have been using my 110 for the last 3 1/2 years and the diff is locked soon as I am off the bitumen. I always drove part time 4wds in the past and had to lock hubs.
I certainly have lots of back clash and axles were replaced once under warranty but now is the same crap.
I can change axles and flanges to HD now but waiting for more cash to also look at Aschroft equipment in the middle.

Cheers

Yes the standard axles / drive flanges are one of the causes of the clunk clunk, I change out Defender TDCi (puma) axles / drive flanges as soon as possible, leaving them in until out of warranty will let all the metal particles into the wheel bearings etc, see my facebook post, look at the pics.
https://www.facebook.com/aztech4x4/posts/1076156172457197

and youtube vids here
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0gnHqbWdUwpq2Qivaj_wbg

pwehhh ... just a big spam of social media there.... I feel so cheap when I do that...

Regards
Daz

[Beery]

Hi Beery,


TO your original question, I have no experience with them other than just purchasing parts, but do you know what these guys are like as a workshop? I ask as they are reasonably close to you.


All Four X 4 Spares - Australia's 4WD Spare Parts Supermarket (http://www.allfourx4.com.au/)


Mark


No idea Mark. I've been wondering the same.
There is also 4wd Industries at Maitland who call themselves LR specialists, but have no idea what they're like.

Not sure if they are members on here either.

[AK83]

....
There is also 4wd Industries at Maitland who call themselves LR specialists, but have no idea what they're like.

....

I can recommend 4wd Industries.
Very good service.
Got my LT230 T/C changeover done there. (D1)
I'm from Melb, and worked out a day for me to get up there.
They were straight onto the job while I wandered around town.

Also got them to service Auto and basically check potential major weak points.
I was expecting them to come back to me with a long list of stuff to get done.
But the young chap that did the actual work was pretty straight up and said the car is pretty tight.
So TC done auto serviced and he altered me to a loose serpentine belt idler and the rubber donut thingy that pretends to be a rear uni joint.
Asked how much to do them and how long.
About an hour more work, basically no extra charge and just the extra $'s for the parts.
1 serpentine belt, which I would have got anyhow as a spare.
1 rubber donut
1 idler pulley contraption.

I have my own do it all mechanic who hasn't let me down in about 30 years of usage(mates via our respective dads), so I'm loathe to use mechanics I don't know.
In fact the times that I've been forced to use local mechanics have always been disastrous for me .. so I avoid them and do much stuff myself if I can't get to 'my mechanic'(he's 100klms away, so not always practical).

So I have a intrinsic distrust of unknown mechanical workshops ..
like the idiot that my brother used to service my dads car (here locally) and he didn't tighten up the front calipers up enough and one fell off and ruined a wheel and caused us grief in the bush!

But 4wd Industries were good to me, so I'm placing them high up on a recommended list. Only problem is they're 1300 klms away from me so not practical to use them more often! :D

As a guide to their labour pricing: they did 6 hours work and I paid them about $500 for their efforts(according to the invoice).

[Beery]

Thats a great review, thanks AK83. That gives me a bit more confidence

[dazzler]

Thats a great review, thanks AK83. That gives me a bit more confidence

Beery

Ordered my kit today, (3 ATB only) as I already have the ashcroft Outputshaft, lets see how that goes :p

Again thank you for the clarification.

Cheers
pd

[dazzler]

Beware folks, got a nasty import duty+GST+other shock of $405 for my ATB kit. Also don't bother with express ship, it is anything but....

[AK83]

..... Also don't bother with express ship, it is anything but....

3 weeks is a long time for an express job .. but it is close to Xmas.
Curious as to how long normal shipping would have taken this time o'year so close to Xmas.

[dazzler]

Beery,

How did you go with your ATB upgrade? Are you happy with it? Mine is going in a couple of weeks.

[Beery]

Beery,

How did you go with your ATB upgrade? Are you happy with it? Mine is going in a couple of weeks.
Going in as we speak dazzler. Well, hopefully they've knocked off for the day.
I'll pick it up on Friday, so should have more to report after the 4 hour drive home.

[dazzler]

Nice ..Where are you getting it done out of interest? ..4hr drive sounds like Sydney. I wont have the truck for three days I am told. ..Also will try to insulate top of the TC and GB whilst at it.

[Beery]

Nice ..Where are you getting it done out of interest? ..4hr drive sounds like Sydney. I wont have the truck for three days I am told. ..Also will try to insulate top of the TC and GB whilst at it.
4wd Industries in Maitland are putting them in. They told me about three days too. But since I had to book flights, made it a bit longer just in case.

[dazzler]

you are doing the lot ain't you, have you considered about HD axles and oil lubrication

[Beery]

you are doing the lot ain't you, have you considered about HD axles and oil lubrication
No not doing either of those at this stage. Maybe at a later date, but I can do those myself.

[dazzler]

Any update Beery?

[dazzler]

Mine's in and oh what a difference!!

pd

[D90 orkney]

Mine's in and oh what a difference!!

pd


When end you say what a difference what is the exact difference?

mine is at LRA at the moment and was there to just get the clutch done but they said my output shaft is bone dry and showing signs of wear and that they found copper in the oil of my transfercase. So I'm getting the shaft and ATB done.

Love to hear what the difference is....

[dazzler]

When end you say what a difference what is the exact difference?

mine is at LRA at the moment and was there to just get the clutch done but they said my output shaft is bone dry and showing signs of wear and that they found copper in the oil of my transfercase. So I'm getting the shaft and ATB done.

Love to hear what the difference is....


Slop aside this thing is so sure footed now, last trip I did not even need to drop tyre pressure(I know I should before i get told ;)) on the loose sandy stuff. I also have ATB's front mid and rear along with Ashcroft output shaft by the way.

[D90 orkney]

Slop aside this thing is so sure footed now, last trip I did not even need to drop tyre pressure(I know I should before i get told ;)) on the loose sandy stuff. I also have ATB's front mid and rear along with Ashcroft output shaft by the way.


Ok good news. Wasn't really wanting to spend
the money but it will be better in the long run

[Beery]

Any update Beery?

Sorry Dazzler, only just saw this now!

All going well so far. I've only done about 3000km since the install and all of those on road, so can't say anything about offroad performance.
The good thing is there's been no change to onroad characteristics that I've noticed. The driveline backlash did reduce a fair bit but its coming back a bit now so might be time to do the drive flanges. How pathetic is that on a 23,000km old vehicle. Not to doubt the quality of workmanship on the intsallation, but I don't think they gave me all my original drive flanges back as one has a lot of surface rust on it. I haven't looked to see if its flogged out though.

[1nando]

Ok good news. Wasn't really wanting to spend
the money but it will be better in the long runI know youve already locked both diffs Damo so once you've done the centre diff with a atb the car will be very Japanese like.....no more clunking at all. On fast dirt or gravel you'll feel as though the vehicle is planted and the peace of mind it brings is reassuring.

[D90 orkney]

I know youve already locked both diffs Damo so once you've done the centre diff with a atb the car will be very Japanese like.....no more clunking at all. On fast dirt or gravel you'll feel as though the vehicle is planted and the peace of mind it brings is reassuring.


I did have the option just to do the washers which would cost $8 but I bit the bullet. So on loose gravel it's recommended not to go into 4H?

[1nando]

I don't. I leave it unlocked and it feels soild. By solid i mean planted.
One of the best mods ive done

[D90 orkney]

I don't. I leave it unlocked and it feels soild. By solid i mean planted.
One of the best mods ive done


This is is what I like hearing 😊

[clive22]

I have had this done on my 2012 130. Great modification, driveline slop has gone. Good performance on loose windy gravel, stops shuffling between front and rear axles.
Good when say turning off Tarmac onto a steep uneven gravel drive, you can feel the slip, a turn of a wheel then it locks and up you go.
Handy when reversing fully laden firewood where you don't wont to lock the centre.
All good nothing bad just costs a fair bit of money.

[Vern]

Does anyone with a front atb find it wants to return to centre and when cornering find you have to fight the wheel a bit?

[dazzler]

Does anyone with a front atb find it wants to return to centre and when cornering find you have to fight the wheel a bit?


I have all three, and I have zero side effect!! all feels stock for me.

[D90 orkney]

After driving mine with the cdl ATB and the output shaft done slop is pretty much non existent. Had no plan on spending that much but I guess it's all good

[Vern]

Yeah so do i (well detroit in the back) mine wants to centre all the time. Might have to look at other issues then

[isuzutoo-eh]

I don't know about having to fight with it, but it does want to centre. I only noticed it for the first 15 minutes of driving and then I got used to it.

[Vern]

I find it worse now as I have ramped up the power, when you sink the boot it really wants to pull straight. Choices for me if detune the engine or fit a front selectable locker.

[filcar]

I find it worse now as I have ramped up the power, when you sink the boot it really wants to pull straight. Choices for me if detune the engine or fit a front selectable locker.
Have ATB's front and back and the BAS 170 tune. The front diff was noticeable initially, but soon got used to it, well worth any small driving adjustment needed for the benefit of the diff IMO.

[Vern]

Hmm maybe mine now is more pronounced since installing the centre one. It had been a long time between drives, but i don't remember it being this bad before the centre atb was fitted

[Ancient Mariner]

I find it worse now as I have ramped up the power, when you sink the boot it really wants to pull straight. Choices for me if detune the engine or fit a front selectable locker. Fit 1.003 gears and 37" tyres.That will slow its gallop[bigwhistle]

[Beery]

Hmm maybe mine now is more pronounced since installing the centre one. It had been a long time between drives, but i don't remember it being this bad before the centre atb was fitted
The three ATB's in mine don't seem to do this. It's a 130 though, so maybe it behaves a bit differently to 90's & 110's.
I don't tend to plant my right foot unless it's pointing fairly straight either.

The brilliant thing about them, unlike a difflock, is that they're down there earning their keep 100% of the time. Great when you're using it for work and towing/carrying heavy loads on different surfaces and making tight manouevers at the same time.

[Vern]

Ok what oil is everyone running in their atb diffs and transfer cases?

[tact]

I find it worse now as I have ramped up the power, when you sink the boot it really wants to pull straight. Choices for me if detune the engine or fit a front selectable locker.

I have ATB's front and rear and the BAS 170hp tune. There is a subtle tendency to self centre the steering, but it is subtle, not really noticible if holding a line.

Where I notice it mostly is in a decreasing, or increasing, radius turn - I notice that it takes slightly more effort to turn the steering wheel towards tightening the turn. Slightly less effort to turn the steering wheel out of the turn towards centred.

Certainly the difference in steering effort between decreasing/increasing turn radius is more pronounced when the loud pedal is on the floor.

You might be onto something asking about diff oils used. I have been using Penrite Pro Gear 75W-90

[Vern]

Put one in the transfer case and tell me if it gets worse[emoji4]

[tact]

Put one in the transfer case and tell me if it gets worse[emoji4]

Thats on the plan (putting in an ATB centre diff). It is planned for immediately after the milestone "transfer case died or needs overhaul" is reached. Not sure exactly when that milestone will be reached. [biggrin]

[rick130]

Ok what oil is everyone running in their atb diffs and transfer cases?Motul Gear 300 75W-90

It has a crazy high viscosity index so provides good lubrication to the internals at low ambients while not thinning too quickly at high working temps, plus it has no LSD friction modifiers to reduce the bias.

[Vern]

Motul Gear 300 75W-90

It has a crazy high viscosity index so provides good lubrication to the internals at low ambients while not thinning too quickly at high working temps, plus it has no LSD friction modifiers to reduce the bias.Yeah i am trying to track this down up here for my gearbox. 6L will hurt the back pocket though

[dazzler]

Yeah i am trying to track this down up here for my gearbox. 6L will hurt tue back pocket though


some type of Liqui-Moly (GL4+/GL5) will confirm later

[rick130]

Yeah i am trying to track this down up here for my gearbox. 6L will hurt the back pocket thoughOoh yeah. It's at least $30/litre.

[Vern]

Ooh yeah. It's at least $30/litre.Wish i could find it for $30/L

[simmo]

Hi guys, I have a Ashcroft ATB in the center diff, and an Detroit/Eaton true track, torsen diff in the front.

The trutrack is similar to the ATB of Ashcroft, and yes is does have a centering effect and make the steering a little heavier, ( and seems more settled on the road).

when I fitted the Ashcroft to the T/C, I can't say I noticed any difference.

I use Penrite Trans-gear semi synthetic on the diffs and TC, and routinely check the temps using an IR gun when I stop for a break at the service centers on the high way. Cruising at 100-110 k.

diffs normally- F about ambient plus 20 deg, - R ambient plus 25 nor 30 deg, -transfer case ambient plus 25, -gearbox ambient plus 35 degrees C, wheel hubs, ( also transgear 80-90), ambient plus 20.
Running full synthetic Progear 70-75 in the gearbox.

Those temperatures indicate to me a fairly healthy drive line, the diffs and TC are fairly primitive bits of gear, I don't think they warrant too much special attention in terms of oils, If penrite say its Ok, it'll do me : ) ( no I'm not employed by them :), just a 30 year satisfied customer.

For the last 10,000 kms, I'm running an experiment with a magnetic filter on my gearbox, connected to the oil cooler fitting. I just have to get around to taking a sample and sending ending it off. I'd like to do something similar with the diffs and TC. IMV, The oil is in the comfort zone in terms of temperature, its oil cleanliness is the area to work on.

cheers simmo.

[rick130]

Wish i could find it for $30/LI have to admit I haven't bought any for over two years, the Deefer hads probably only done 5-7,000km in that time.

[DazzaTD5]

Penrite Pro Gear 75W90 for diffs, transfer case, all models.

Regards
Daz