Fuel Consumption for D4 with Trailer

[DIS4]

I thought that I could get away with rooftop tent plus annex when we have a family of 6. Now, I think that to keep miss happy with Camping and get a decent camp trailer. I almost try to covert a trademark trailer with rooftop tent, built in kitchen and plenty of storage. However, cost add up and camp trailer is the way to go. We are planing a trip from Melbourne to Fraser Island, just wonder how everyone goes with fuel consumption. Does it matter if pulling 800kg soft top or 1500kg hardtop camper? What about the difficulty to the off-road on Fraser Island, Cape York and Simpson?

Cheers,

Gary

[Tombie]

My 1600kg. Crossover drags it back to 14l/100km sitting on 110km/h

[Chops]

We have a Forward Fold trailer, and we sat on about 13.8 or so, towing with a major headwind up hills through Bacchus Marsh and up to Avoca. Ours weighs probably close to 1500, but not sure as I've never weighed it.

[LRD414]

We have a camper trailer that weighs around 1700kg when loaded up.
For long trips the average consumption is around 14-15 L/100km.
I typically calculate distances between refills etc using 15 when towing it.

Note that Fraser Island will be much worse fuel consumption if towing.
Depends on the sand but at least assume 20L/100km if towing.

Scott

[RobA]

Our recent 22,000km trip from Adelaide to the Kimberley and back via the coast and SW of WA returned 14.9l per 100km towing a fully loaded Ultimate and roof tray with spare wheel, space case and 3xJC

Rob

[catch-22]

I trust all these measurements are not from the onboard computer!!

2.5t and never exceed 100, 15.1/100

[Tombie]

I trust all these measurements are not from the onboard computer!!

2.5t and never exceed 100, 15.1/100



Mines spot on [emoji6]

[LandyAndy]

200ml/100km difference is nothing.
Andrew

[LandyAndy]

Mines spot on [emoji6]

Mine is VERY close to spot on,close enough not to worry about.
Andrew

[DIS4]

Thanks for the information, I haven't seen many soft floor Tare weight around 900kg. It shouldn't be much difference, I like ford ward folding, hope the extra investment will be worth while. Any forward folding camper you recommend? I like Black series dominator and patron, they are reasonably value and quality build. Below $20000. MDC also provides good value.

[Chops]

I'm not sure about others, but, I believe ours is not really suited to the High Country if that's what your intending on doing. There's some pretty rough sections of tracks in amongst it all, and the length of the draw bar on a FF means you'll be scull dragging it over and through a lot of obstacles.
In this regard, a Rear Fold, with its shorter bar would be a better buy in my opinion. I would think in either configuration, you'd find a unit under 20K without trouble.
Ours is an Ezytrail unit, of which I wanted the RF, but, the Mrs wanted the FF when she saw you could sit inside it without the need to carry chairs and tables to put inside it. She won :angel:

[Redback]

Thanks for the information, I haven't seen many soft floor Tare weight around 900kg. It shouldn't be much difference, I like ford ward folding, hope the extra investment will be worth while. Any forward folding camper you recommend? I like Black series dominator and patron, they are reasonably value and quality build. Below $20000. MDC also provides good value.

Our soft floor is around 1400kg to 1500kg, has a long drawbar, the trailer itself(box section with walkin) is 9 x 4 so fairly long, we've dragged it everywhere, multipal High country trips, the Gulf, the Cape, Flinders, out west, the Simpson Desert.

2.7L D4 we would average around the 15l/100k, has been up around the 17l/100k with a headwind and hilly country, soon as you go off road, the economy goes up, especially when going slow.

We recently purchased a Lighweight Camper(brand) some may know this brand, it weighs about 750kg, what a difference that makes on economy, we have been as low as 10.5l/100k and now average 13l/100k. of coarse the average changes depending on the road conditions, hilly offroad is the worst, but over a long trip, 12.5 to 14l/100k is the norm now, instead of 14 to 17l/100k.

Our old camper sits gathering dust out the front, shame really:(

The 2.7/ D4 is not as fuel afficent as the 3.0l or the D3 2.7l for some strange reason:eek:

[Tombie]

Thanks for the information, I haven't seen many soft floor Tare weight around 900kg. It shouldn't be much difference, I like ford ward folding, hope the extra investment will be worth while. Any forward folding camper you recommend? I like Black series dominator and patron, they are reasonably value and quality build. Below $20000. MDC also provides good value.



I would suggest you avoid both like the plague...

A few Google searches will provide info.

[shanegtr]

The 2.7/ D4 is not as fuel afficent as the 3.0l or the D3 2.7l for some strange reason:eek:
My 2.7 D3 seems to do about the same as yours when loaded with the camper trailer. I averaged 16.1L/100km for a 2500km trip recently with the camper in tow. The headwind on the way down was what blew the average out - 17.8L/100 on the way down and 14.5L/100 on the way home

[Narangga]

My 2.7 D3 seems to do about the same as yours when loaded with the camper trailer. I averaged 16.1L/100km for a 2500km trip recently with the camper in tow. The headwind on the way down was what blew the average out - 17.8L/100 on the way down and 14.5L/100 on the way home

Likewise with a 1200kg camper trailer, roof rack and spare wheel on top, doing 100 kph and not molly coddling it, we were a tad over 14l/100km.

[PRS]

Have attached fuel data of recent 8100kM trip. This is a 3.0L RRS towing a 2t off road poptop, (similar to Lifestyle AT12). Bitumen cruise speed about 100kM/Hr. The <12l/100 figures were no van. The second Broken Hill entry was no towing with 90% at 100kM/hr. Note the error in the vehicle computer consumption L/100 to the real figures (bowser litres). Same ODO kM for both calcs. Understood this was a common problem.
The speedo and ODO are correct to within 1.5%

Paul

[catch-22]

It's something that always has me questioning....two exact cars one off the line after the other and they can measure the fuel differently. We need to take in to account the different bowsers, of course, but come on...

[DIS4]

I would suggest you avoid both like the plague...

A few Google searches will provide info.

I did find more negative reviews than others, one might be they sell more than others. I heard GIC changed new management now, their black series dominator and patron seems quality built with good value.

What about this following camper, seems very good, too good to be true, almost Tempe me to fly over to have a look.


RRP $24999 we sell for $15050.
Chassis Heavy duty military style straight thru chassis and hot dipped galvanised 100x50x4mm
*Fully welded and sealed, stone guard paint protection applied underneath and to front .
*Independent suspension military style with heavy duty shocks x 2 each side with coil springs
*Paint 2 pack full gloss baked enamel two coats
*Stabilizer legs x 4 military style
* Jockey wheel heavy duty 10 inch
* Winches x 2 heavy duty to assist opening and closing camper trailer
* Mud tyres X 4 with alloy wheels 265/75R16
* 2 x Recovery points military style
* Water tank 130L high grade stainless steel suitable for drinking water with 12 v electric high pressure pump
*Kitchen Stainless Steel with sink and tap. Slide out Kitchen with 2 additional slide cutlery draws
*4 burner gas stove AGA approved with stainless steel wind protector and additional kitchen bench slide out type
* Stone guard for maximum protection with 2 x 20 Lt Jerry can holders , 2 x 9kg Gas Holders
* Brakes and Hubs Military Style 12inch 4WD type with electric brakes.
*Electrical lights and power , 3 x LED lights internal, 1 x LED above fridge draw, 1 x LED lights kitchen Light side mounted.
*1x 2000watts inverter 240volts , 3 x 12 V cigarette light ,50 amp Anderson plug, 2 x Deep Cycle Batteries 100AH
* Main switch board with breaker and additional individual switches.
Tent
*Queen size bed area at the front spring mattress 2 person , additional bed area at the rear 2 person, middle area can
also convert to sleeping area 2 person. ( Main 5.480m x 1.800m )
*Lounge area with cushions and dining table that is moveable
*Full size annex can be fully enclosed or open ( 5.480m x 2.400m )
* Tent material 16oz heavy duty canvas and midge and mosquito proof netting on all doors and windows
*Bonus Free Upgrade include ,
? Boat Rack Military Style,
? Shower Room,
? Gas Hot Water Heater,
? 180 Watts Solar Panels,
? 2000 Watt Inverter 240 volts
? Portable Toilet
? 4 X MUD TYRES WITH ALLOY RIMS
? QUEENS SIZE SPRING MATTRESS
? 2 X BATTERIES DEEP CYCLE 100 AH
? 2 X 20LT JERRY CANS

[DIS4]

Sorry, off topic on camper. Can My original tow bar still fit for the purpose of the trip? Such as lost city in NSW, Fraser Island; eventually Red Centre, cape York and Simpson. Otherwise, seems Mitch Hitch the better option.

[Rextheute]

Just returned from a short trip away - 500km .VHC via Mansfield .

Towing our camper 910kg fully loaded - thank you free weighbridge on Hume@Tallarook !

Computer claims 10.7l/100 @ 100km/hr - but average speed was a tad under 80km/hr .

No real hard work , just gravelly roads and a bit of up n down .

Car tows really well , only threw one fault ! ( but it might be a biggy .....)

Oh and the remote fob battery went flat ....in an area of no internet or mobile service .
So pack one of those !

Also , dont buy a camper based on price - i know its a consideration but you truly get what you pay for .
There are some bargains in the secondhand market , maybe try to rent a couple prior to laying the cashola down .

[LRD414]

Sorry, off topic on camper. Can My original tow bar still fit for the purpose of the trip? Such as lost city in NSW, Fraser Island; eventually Red Centre, cape York and Simpson. Otherwise, seems Mitch Hitch the better option.



Mitch Hitch is the better option by far but the factory one will do the job. The issue is ground clearance in rougher terrain particularly hills and gullies. If the ground is soft enough it's ok to drag the tow point through but is always a risk of doing damage to it.

Given all those places you plan to go, I think better to invest in the Mitch Hitch now.

Regards,
Scott

[Chops]

Just returned from a short trip away - 500km .VHC via Mansfield .

Towing our camper 910kg fully loaded - thank you free weighbridge on Hume@Tallarook !

Computer claims 10.7l/100 @ 100km/hr - but average speed was a tad under 80km/hr .

No real hard work , just gravelly roads and a bit of up n down .

Car tows really well , only threw one fault ! ( but it might be a biggy .....)

Oh and the remote fob battery went flat ....in an area of no internet or mobile service .
So pack one of those !

Also , dont buy a camper based on price - i know its a consideration but you truly get what you pay for .
There are some bargains in the secondhand market , maybe try to rent a couple prior to laying the cashola down .

Spotted the lights on on the way past on Friday. I so wished I'd seen the lights on early enough to be able to pull in and weigh the car. Have done this a few times now and missed it, they seem to forget to turn it all off.

[Redback]

My 2.7 D3 seems to do about the same as yours when loaded with the camper trailer. I averaged 16.1L/100km for a 2500km trip recently with the camper in tow. The headwind on the way down was what blew the average out - 17.8L/100 on the way down and 14.5L/100 on the way home


Likewise with a 1200kg camper trailer, roof rack and spare wheel on top, doing 100 kph and not molly coddling it, we were a tad over 14l/100km.

OK so all these stories I hear of getting 10s, 11,and 12s are just that, stories, only time I got 12l/100ks was when the camper was empty and the D4 was empty on a trip to Gosford and back and it was high 12s.

It's great to be towing at 12 to 13s again, like we were getting in the D2, and having the longrange tank it's great to have that extra range.

[Redback]

It's something that always has me questioning....two exact cars one off the line after the other and they can measure the fuel differently. We need to take in to account the different bowsers, of course, but come on...

Difference driving styles, a guess when it comes to the exact weight you're actually towing, different road conditions, weather conditions(windy not windy) accessories on the car, weight of the car, tyres(bigger more aggresive) believing the on board computer verses actual fill ups, there are so many variables, no two vehicles will ever be the same, exact or not.

Oh yeah and people fudging the numbers:wasntme:

[catch-22]

This is going off topic but mine reads 10.6 and measured 12.55. I'd say it's a bit out

[Tombie]

This is going off topic but mine reads 10.6 and measured 12.55. I'd say it's a bit out



You can ONLY calculate from the pump if you know the fuel was the same temperature when delivered and the ambient tank / atmospheric temps were the same as last fill.

And only if the same bowser is used...

[catch-22]

The temps were on par but the bowser, doesn't matter really.

Fill to the brim
Reset trip A
Drive 292 ks
Fill to the brim
Calculate

[Tombie]

Yeah, I wouldn't trust it..
Air trapped in tank, etc. can cause a huge variation...

[catch-22]

I'd much rather trust the computer in my case [emoji3]

[Tombie]

Are you aware you can adjust the trim for fuel consumption with the GAP IID tool?

[catch-22]

No, I wasn't. I'll look into it.

Cheers

[PRS]

Tombie, would not air trapped in vehicle tank use less fuel for the fill up, resulting in improved fuel consumption figures (less fuel for same kM).
Regardless of such variables that may be thrown into the equations after some 22 consecutive refuelling stops and data many errors are minimised and certainly not resulting in a understandable average 17% error.
Volume change relative to temperature very minor. A further comment of wheel size was previously raised, which I disregard as it is the same wheel diameter, same driving manner etc used for both the vehicle and real life calcs using bowser litres.
I have previously set up a MoTeC engine management system which provided a fuel consumption readout. This was based on injector flow rate, # of injectors, fuel pressure and on time of the injectors. This was with accurate to < 1%.
I can only conclude LR make a conscientious effort to make fuel consumption figures look good, to the extent of 15-20%.

[catch-22]

Yeah my Audi was near spot on. The disco is just shy of 17% off.

But I think we could start a new thread, if one hasn't already been started, where people post their results. But all have to follow the same routine and fill to the brim. Can't trust pumps.

[Chops]

Are you aware you can adjust the trim for fuel consumption with the GAP IID tool?

G'day Mike, I don't have the Gap tool yet, but could just enlighten me on what the "trim" is please (?).

In concern with getting figures from fills etc, I reckon I'd have a hard time with this. Would have been easy to do before I had the Aux tank installed, but now I seem to get lots of air pockets, and as such, I'm not sure this would work for me like this, not to mention, at some servo's, the car is on a lean.
Is there, or are there, any other ways to try and work this out, other tools etc.

[Tombie]

In the CCF there is a value usually set at 7% for fuel reading.
Changing this to -5.5% or there about brings it to within 0.2l/100km.

The problem with air in the tank or foaming is you just don't know which tank full had it...the previous tank or the current tank...

The only true way to measure accurately is to run the vehicle dry. Fill from known fuel containers, drive until it runs dry and calculate.

A good guesstimate would be to run the vehicle to the light, put 20 litres in and then do it again...

My calculations were done using my Lease App for 4 years, where the odometer was entered with every fill... after 4 years I was out by about 2% which I wasn't concerned about.

One thing I'm convinced of is that Avg consumption is over a unit of time, not a tank of fuel....

On the consistent run from Whyalla to Adelaide 395km I get a consistent 9.7l/100km @ 114km/h SOG (once remapped and modified exhaust) - previously it was 10.9/100km.

With the crossover on the back it's 14.5/100km at 114km/h.

[catch-22]

114km/h according to the gauge or GPS? [emoji41]

[catch-22]

In the CCF there is a value usually set at 7% for fuel reading.
Changing this to -5.5% or there about brings it to within 0.2l/100km.



I don't get it. Why would it be set to a value that is going to be wrong from factory and not correct until changed?

[Narangga]

OK so all these stories I hear of getting 10s, 11,and 12s are just that, stories, only time I got 12l/100ks was when the camper was empty and the D4 was empty on a trip to Gosford and back and it was high 12s.

It's great to be towing at 12 to 13s again, like we were getting in the D2, and having the longrange tank it's great to have that extra range.

Can only speak for myself Baz. Filling at each bowser with same routine and then calculating against distance driven from last bowser. Odometer might be a poofteenth out.

Vehicle only (3,000 - 3,100kg) plus roof rack and spare tyre on top at 110 kph was almost down to 12 neat.

[LandyAndy]

I don't get it. Why would it be set to a value that is going to be wrong from factory and not correct until changed?

Make you belive you are getting good economy;);););););)
The olde Volksywagen cheating,who would have thought?????

All sensors need calibrating,I guess at the factory they just put it to something the owner would like.

When I was a sodbusters slave,I calibrated the boomspray every time I changed chemical brews,different viscousity fluids etc,I don't know why I cared so much back then,they didn't care when I injured my back.I was like a broken tractor,no good to anybody:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:
Andrew

[Tombie]

114km/h according to the gauge or GPS? [emoji41]



SOG.

[Chops]

Cheers, I'll try the fuel light part and see what I can work out.

[DIS4]

Mitch Hitch is the better option by far but the factory one will do the job. The issue is ground clearance in rougher terrain particularly hills and gullies. If the ground is soft enough it's ok to drag the tow point through but is always a risk of doing damage to it.

Given all those places you plan to go, I think better to invest in the Mitch Hitch now.

Regards,
Scott

Apart from Mitch Hitch, any things else required to tow the trailer? Electrical brakes controller, towing mirrors? I try to get a light weight soft floor camper to get good clearence in to pass tough terrains, but seems hard floor is her favor. Hay on swift is a great compact camper, but it would void the warranty if crossing water.


Cheers,

Gary

[catch-22]

Gary,

You'll need to buy or make up a resistance pack to ensure the indicators work correctly and so the disco does all of its changes it itself when the trailer is attached. Read about it, it's pretty amazing really

[LRD414]

Gary, you will need a brake controller if the camper weighs more than 750kg. You will not need towing mirrors. Every camper trailer I have seen is basically the same width as the vehicle. There are plenty of hard floor campers that are capable to go where you want to go and they are much easier to setup and pack away compared to soft floor.

Cheers,
Scott

[Redback]

Gary, you will need a brake controller if the camper weighs more than 750kg. You will not need towing mirrors. Every camper trailer I have seen is basically the same width as the vehicle. There are plenty of hard floor campers that are capable to go where you want to go and they are much easier to setup and pack away compared to soft floor.

Cheers,
Scott

True, but they lack the room and storage of a soft floor camper.

Here's an excample;
http://www.campertrailers.org/camper_trader1122.htm

There are lots of good second hand camper out there, some are a lot cheaper than this one, just gotta look, have a look at the site this camper is on, there are lots of soft and hard floor campers to compare.

[DIS4]

Gary, you will need a brake controller if the camper weighs more than 750kg. You will not need towing mirrors. Every camper trailer I have seen is basically the same width as the vehicle. There are plenty of hard floor campers that are capable to go where you want to go and they are much easier to setup and pack away compared to soft floor.

Cheers,
Scott

Hi, Scott. Is this the same Mitch Hitch as yours?
Tow Hitch High Rise Land Rover Discovery 3 Range Rover Sport ADR Approved *NEW* | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tow-Hitch-High-Rise-Land-Rover-Discovery-3-Range-Rover-Sport-ADR-Approved-NEW-/201651442170?hash=item2ef35cd1fa)

[shanegtr]

Well thats not a "Mitch Hitch", but its of a similar design. The actual Mitch hitch is here:
Mitchell Bros Hi-Rise Tow Hitch &ndash; Mitchell Brothers 4x4 & More (http://www.mitchhitch.com.au/products/mitch-hitch)

[LRD414]

Hi, Scott. Is this the same Mitch Hitch as yours?

Tow Hitch High Rise Land Rover Discovery 3 Range Rover Sport ADR Approved *NEW* | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tow-Hitch-High-Rise-Land-Rover-Discovery-3-Range-Rover-Sport-ADR-Approved-NEW-/201651442170?hash=item2ef35cd1fa)

Gary, no I have a genuine one as per Shane posted. This one is a copy and has some aspects that I find inferior to the genuine one. In particular it is larger to the sides.

Regards,
Scott

[scarry]

The 2.7/ D4 is not as fuel afficent as the 3.0l or the D3 2.7l for some strange reason:eek:

Correct,and no where near as fuel efficient as any of three D2's i had either,including one that had a power upgrade.


And a power upgrade on the D4 2.7 doesn't do the economy any favours either,but i wouldn't be with out it:)

[Tombie]

Correct,and no where near as fuel efficient as any of three D2's i had either,including one that had a power upgrade.





And a power upgrade on the D4 2.7 doesn't do the economy any favours either,but i wouldn't be with out it:)



Strange. My tune on the 2.7 has improved economy 1l/100km

And it's much better than my D2 or Defender were...

[Redback]

Correct,and no where near as fuel efficient as any of three D2's i had either,including one that had a power upgrade.


And a power upgrade on the D4 2.7 doesn't do the economy any favours either,but i wouldn't be with out it:)

My D2 was amazing compared to the D4, constant low 10s and towing the camper 12 to 13s fully loaded and really never changed whether I was offroad or onroad, it had a chip, and all the gear on it, bigger tyres roof racks and so on, the D4 on the other hand has all the gear but no chip and it really goes up once you're offroad and not by a little either, I've seen it up as high as 35l/100k and it sent the average for that tank up to 19l/100k on a past flinders trip when we went to the SA Land Rover Show, we did a little trip out to Nuccaleena and did the PAR back to Chambers Gorge towing the camper, it was after that trip we had the gearbox fixed.

Since the gearbox has been rebuilt the economy has improved quite a bit, so I'm thinking it may have had a lot to do with it's high economy, I have a feeling this may have been our D4s high economy issue since we purchaced it, because it's always had really bad economy since new and now it's not too bad, we might document the economy this Xmas and see how it compares from previous High Country trips.

[scarry]

Strange. My tune on the 2.7 has improved economy 1l/100km

And it's much better than my D2 or Defender were...

Looking at Redbacks post,maybe mine needs a gearbox rebuild:(

Mine didn't get any better with the upgrade,

But keep in mind all my vehicles don't tow,but are heavily loaded at times.

[DIS4]

Gary, no I have a genuine one as per Shane posted. This one is a copy and has some aspects that I find inferior to the genuine one. In particular it is larger to the sides.

Regards,
Scott

Hi, Scott. I just got a Mitch Hitch from a forum member. I tried to install it yesterday but taper lock was difficult to fit in the recovery eye. I noticed some try to grinder it and I hesitate to do that, would it reduce the stress level of recovery eye? I am think of cut the crush tube slot to make bigger gap, but also depends on how much room for male crush tube to expand. Any thoughts?

Cheers

Gary

[Narangga]

Hi, Scott. I just got a Mitch Hitch from a forum member. I tried to install it yesterday but taper lock was difficult to fit in the recovery eye. I noticed some try to grinder it and I hesitate to do that, would it reduce the stress level of recovery eye? I am think of cut the crush tube slot to make bigger gap, but also depends on how much room for male crush tube to expand. Any thoughts?

Cheers

Gary

You do need to remove the imperfections in the casting of the recovery eye. Being cast, and because you are only removing a relatively small amount, it does not affect the integrity of the eye.

I bought a dremel tool to do that job as it has a right angle head to access the eye. Have the used the dremel on numerous other jobs since too.

[LRD414]

You do need to remove the imperfections in the casting of the recovery eye. Being cast, and because you are only removing a relatively small amount, it does not affect the integrity of the eye.

I bought a dremel tool to do that job as it has a right angle head to access the eye. Have the used the dremel on numerous other jobs since too.

Exactly what I did too. Very handy bit of kit the Dremmel.

Gary, the grinding required removes almost zero metal from the eye just to create a smoother surface. The bush is still a tight fit even then and a few taps with a small hammer were required on mine to get it in fully. It requires a little fiddling to get both halves of the bush inserted and central due to the tight fit. Took me a few attempts.

I would not cut the bush in any way.

Scott

[shanegtr]

I must have got lucky when I installed my mitch hitch - no grinding or anything to the top eye, bush went straight in :p

[LRD414]

Was yours 2nd hand Shane? Could have been previous owner or just lucky with the casting.

Scott

[shanegtr]

It was second hand:cool:

[DIS4]

Exactly what I did too. Very handy bit of kit the Dremmel.

Gary, the grinding required removes almost zero metal from the eye just to create a smoother surface. The bush is still a tight fit even then and a few taps with a small hammer were required on mine to get it in fully. It requires a little fiddling to get both halves of the bush inserted and central due to the tight fit. Took me a few attempts.

I would not cut the bush in any way.

Scott

It seems that I need to top up my handy man tool box. thanks. How do your guys go with the recovery points? I know you can put in a tongue with recover point.

Gary

[Tombie]

Just use the pin in the receiver

[LRD414]

I have one of these.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/368.jpg

[Redback]

Just use the pin in the receiver

This is what I use also, less chance of a flying shackle hitting you or someone else in the noggan;)

[DIS4]

Just had a test drive from Melbourne to Ararat Vicroad with new camper, tare weight is 1540kg. I had to get it registered in order to make a camping trip to Fraser leaving tomorrow. Didn't realize how busy is Vicroad, fully booked for inspection until early January.

On the way to Ararat, I clocked around 14-15l per 100km; almost caught me in superise. Tank empty quick than I thought before I reach Ballarat, lucky enough, I saw a at Ballan, but bad enough they closed diesel pump due to some problems. The light already on for fuel, I had to drive few km to other side free way to refuel.

I think two BP on two side of freeway are waste when there are many have on large petrol station with food court on Centre of freeway if space allowed or have a service road to link either side of freeway. In the US, Japan and Many other countries have similar setup.

Off topic again, registration was straight forward. On the way back, I found the fuel going up significantly to 17 on flat, up to 25 on hill. I thought the head wind, then I checked if I forgot to release the hand brake, or readarc tow pro caused problems. However, nothing found unusual. I refuel it again and found the fuel enconomic wasn't bad. The figures were base on instant fuel enconmy, are they correct? Only long haul trip with detail record at the pump will tell.

Wish me luck for the first camping trip on camper trailer, don't let me down on Fraser since many Landcruser and patrols happy to see they are better for off-road, it almost change my mind. This forum gave me the strength to carry on. Otherwise, it is costly determination. Just had second service which cost me $2400, including change 4 disk brakes almost $1k, Toyota should be half of that, there is price to pay to have personality. So far, it hasn't let me down as long as you know its strength and weakness.

Merry Christmas!

Cheers,

Gary

[rocket rod]

Gary, Instant Fuel will always look bad even just taking off from the lights. I use a spreadsheet to calculate fuel consumption and also the road type I was on for that tank load, this way I can estimate how long I can get from a tank on a specific road type, eg Sand, Gravel etc. It's good for trip planning.

On Fraser make sure you turn off DSC every time you get in the car and have fun!

[Tombie]

Here's a hot tip..

Make sure you have enough fuel to get where you want to go and back.

Make sure you have enough money to pay for the fuel.

Bugger worrying about the consumption!

Life's to short for boring cars.... and fuel is cheap fun!

[DIS4]

It just matter of planning, I thought that I don't need to worry about the fuel. Now I need two Jerry can, and a long range tank in the new year.

[Tombie]

It just matter of planning, I thought that I don't need to worry about the fuel. Now I need two Jerry can, and a long range tank in the new year.



Oh. For what trip?

[RobA]

It just matter of planning, I thought that I don't need to worry about the fuel. Now I need two Jerry can, and a long range tank in the new year.

Sounds an interesting approach and expensive as once you move to a LR tank you now add the extra weight of that plus a spare wheel carrier.

Let me try and put your issue into perspective from our experience.

In the first instance consumption is only one part of the outcome you are seeking and that outcome is to understand your range/endurance under different conditions. From there you consider how you then manage that endurance.

Put simply we covered 22,000km in four months towing our camper through the NT, Kimberley and the rest of WA then back to Adelaide. I would consider that enough variation in terrain, speed, weather conditions etc. to give me a pretty reasonable rule of thumb for both consumption and range.

So what did we find? Our planning figure for range is now 500km when towing. I don't really care about consumption now as it can be such a variable figure. Al I want to know is how far I can get on one tank. Now 500km is a reasonable days drive but you need to add to your considerations when you can fuel up and how often and they how you manage your tank contents to ensure you don't run out

So as many have mentioned above fuel is actually cheap compared to a lot of things. The result for us is and depending on where we are going, we will refuel more often to manage that safety barrier. It's a cheap option and gives us a break from travel. Cost is not the issue it is about maintaining range

Now fuel reserves. As I have described we did a lot of travel and at times quite remote. We took 3xJC on the roof and that sufficed for the whole 22,000km. 60l is about 75% of a full tank so gives you an additional range of at least 300km. Whereas 2xJC is not what I would call optimal but your call on that.

I hope that helps with your considerations. We have been travelling Oz for 15 years now and whilst not experts by any means the habits above, supported by detailed trip planning (know your distances so you can work out when to refuel) go a long way to understanding how to manage your fuel really well. Along with avoiding the need to add extra weight permanently (LR tank and spare wheel carrier) which will impact on your day to day consumption and wear and tear

One more suggestion is to run a log book for this trip so you collect all the necessary data which will give you your fuel averages. This knowledge is vital for your future trip planning, it will make is easier as a variable has been removed. As well it is the only way to get a reliable set of fuel consumption and distance to empty numbers

Rob

[Chops]

Travelling up the Hume today towing the camper, (Forward Fold, loaded), running the aircon the whole way because of cats in the car, we got according to the trip meter, 11.1/100L.
Sat on 110 for the better part of the trip,, may have gone over just a wee tad occasionally ;)

[DiscoMick]

Just had a test drive from Melbourne to Ararat Vicroad with new camper, tare weight is 1540kg. I had to get it registered in order to make a camping trip to Fraser leaving tomorrow. Didn't realize how busy is Vicroad, fully booked for inspection until early January.

On the way to Ararat, I clocked around 14-15l per 100km; almost caught me in superise. Tank empty quick than I thought before I reach Ballarat, lucky enough, I saw a at Ballan, but bad enough they closed diesel pump due to some problems. The light already on for fuel, I had to drive few km to other side free way to refuel.

I think two BP on two side of freeway are waste when there are many have on large petrol station with food court on Centre of freeway if space allowed or have a service road to link either side of freeway. In the US, Japan and Many other countries have similar setup.

Off topic again, registration was straight forward. On the way back, I found the fuel going up significantly to 17 on flat, up to 25 on hill. I thought the head wind, then I checked if I forgot to release the hand brake, or readarc tow pro caused problems. However, nothing found unusual. I refuel it again and found the fuel enconomic wasn't bad. The figures were base on instant fuel enconmy, are they correct? Only long haul trip with detail record at the pump will tell.

Wish me luck for the first camping trip on camper trailer, don't let me down on Fraser since many Landcruser and patrols happy to see they are better for off-road, it almost change my mind. This forum gave me the strength to carry on. Otherwise, it is costly determination. Just had second service which cost me $2400, including change 4 disk brakes almost $1k, Toyota should be half of that, there is price to pay to have personality. So far, it hasn't let me down as long as you know its strength and weakness.

Merry Christmas!

Cheers,

Gary

Instant fuel can look bad because of short term things, but what counts is the long term average.
Knocking 10 km/h off the speed can dramatically lower consumption.

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[DIS4]

Just back from Fraser Island with 5000km on the clock, it is average 15.1L per100km, including some off-road track at lost city and sand driving on Fraser. Two tyres got damaged on some rocky off-road tracks since I passed the point which I could drop off the trailer. Got bogged on Fraser as we waited for the Ferry, stoped on the soft sand wasn't a good idea, momentum wasn't there. My D4 already carried too much weight, I had DSC switched off, sand terrain and low range wasn't enough. 275/45R20 cooper couldn't help much. Eventually I had to let a Landcruser to pull the trailer out. Otherwise, kids were very happy with camping trip, and I had some lessons to learnt especially with trailer, it is more vulnerable on off-road track if unprepared. Cooper zeon side wall will be big doubts in my mind.

Cheers,

[DiscoJeffster]

10.2L/100 D4 TDV6 3.0L towing camper 3000km @ 100kph (WA official towing speed). Very happy, included some beach work without the camper.

[DiscoMick]

10.2L/100 D4 TDV6 3.0L towing camper 3000km @ 100kph (WA official towing speed). Very happy, included some beach work without the camper.

That's good. My Defender 2.4 does about 10.5 or about 11 loaded up and towing the camper, so with a larger tank my range is about a thousand kilometres.

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[DiscoJeffster]

That's good. My Defender 2.4 does about 10.5 or about 11 loaded up and towing the camper, so with a larger tank my range is about a thousand kilometres.

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Winds are a massive factor that will swing it a couple of litres. I was fortunate to get a decent tailwind for a lot of it.

[niobe]

Just got back from a 2 week circuit, mainly on-road but hilly.

Consumption went from 8.8 typical for unloaded town driving, to 12.9 for the whole trip with loaded car and 1700kg of camper trailer (MY11 D4).

Interestingly that's less than 50% increase in consumption, whereas GCM would have gone up by 60+%.

Would have liked to stop in at a truck weighing station and get my GCM. Is this actually possible?

[Kandy]

Just back from Fraser Island with 5000km on the clock, it is average 15.1L per100km, including some off-road track at lost city and sand driving on Fraser. Two tyres got damaged on some rocky off-road tracks since I passed the point which I could drop off the trailer. Got bogged on Fraser as we waited for the Ferry, stoped on the soft sand wasn't a good idea, momentum wasn't there. My D4 already carried too much weight, I had DSC switched off, sand terrain and low range wasn't enough. 275/45R20 cooper couldn't help much. Eventually I had to let a Landcruser to pull the trailer out. Otherwise, kids were very happy with camping trip, and I had some lessons to learnt especially with trailer, it is more vulnerable on off-road track if unprepared. Cooper zeon side wall will be big doubts in my mind.

Cheers,

Mate thats THE place for novices to get bogged, and assisted with a LC, ouch.
Many trips to fraser so tyre pressure (trailer as well) is critical, 18-20 psi generally, dont go over 80k,stay safe, let the weekend warriors pass you. If necessary as last time I went to go around the rocks at the northern end orchard beach, I pressured down to 15 psi and was the only one of us not to bog. This in the td5 not allowed to take the d4.
I believe the trip computer is close enough. Just returned from a 3 month trip towing 2500kg 14.6 to 15,5l/100k.
Lovely place enjoy while you can.

[niobe]

Eventually I had to let a Landcruser to pull the trailer out.

Ah, the shame of it :no2:

[DiscoMick]

Just back from Fraser Island with 5000km on the clock, it is average 15.1L per100km, including some off-road track at lost city and sand driving on Fraser. Two tyres got damaged on some rocky off-road tracks since I passed the point which I could drop off the trailer. Got bogged on Fraser as we waited for the Ferry, stoped on the soft sand wasn't a good idea, momentum wasn't there. My D4 already carried too much weight, I had DSC switched off, sand terrain and low range wasn't enough. 275/45R20 cooper couldn't help much. Eventually I had to let a Landcruser to pull the trailer out. Otherwise, kids were very happy with camping trip, and I had some lessons to learnt especially with trailer, it is more vulnerable on off-road track if unprepared. Cooper zeon side wall will be big doubts in my mind.

Cheers,

Yeah we had to drop the tyres to 16 towing the camper on Flinders Beach at Straddy to get off the sand into the camping area, so don't be too apologetic - towing in sand is not easy. Without the trailer on it was easy.

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[DIS4]

Yeah we had to drop the tyres to 16 towing the camper on Flinders Beach at Straddy to get off the sand into the camping area, so don't be too apologetic - towing in sand is not easy. Without the trailer on it was easy.

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Agreed the tyre pressures are critical but It doesn't help much with 20" Rim. Seriously considering a set of GOE rim and wait for financial controller approval since just spent 7k on bull bar, winch, light bar,etc.

[DiscoMick]

Yes, although our tyres are only mild ATs, admittedly 235/85/16s, so the length of tread is good and there is no worry dropping them low because of the height of the sidewall. Length is more important than width on sand. Chunky tread is a disadvantage because it just digs holes.
Weight is obviously important. On the way in we were heavily loaded and towing, so sank easily in the sand. Unloaded and without the camper we floated easily on the sand and never had an issue, even when I let the daughter in law from Sydney have a drive. Didn't even need low range and I put the tyres back up to 25 so we could drive around the island's sealed roads OK.
Of course, an unloaded Defender is lighter than a D4.

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[DIS4]

Yes, although our tyres are only mild ATs, admittedly 235/85/16s, so the length of tread is good and there is no worry dropping them low because of the height of the sidewall. Length is more important than width on sand. Chunky tread is a disadvantage because it just digs holes.
Weight is obviously important. On the way in we were heavily loaded and towing, so sank easily in the sand. Unloaded and without the camper we floated easily on the sand and never had an issue, even when I let the daughter in law from Sydney have a drive. Didn't even need low range and I put the tyres back up to 25 so we could drive around the island's sealed roads OK.
Of course, an unloaded Defender is lighter than a D4.

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At the time I had my D4, my mate urged me to take defender and but D4 is more balance for work and family. Otherwise, I would like to have a defender for offroad if pass the financial controller.