View Full Version : Air strut replacement
Russrobe
5th December 2016, 08:31 PM
Hey all,
So I'm busy getting the disco ready for a 5 week camping trip(GRR, Coral Bay, Darwin etc) in April/May.
There's a few parts I'm choosing to replace due to 200 000km on our odometer.
4 x air struts being one, has anybody sourced these recently? I just went out to find a part number, but I dont think the fronts are originals, i took some pics or the tag. And can't find a part number for the rears either...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/835.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/836.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/837.jpg
Rearhttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/838.jpg
New door seals, was hoping the dealer wouldn't be too bad a price, don't want to do this one myself as it needs to be done properly.
All cooling/radiator hoses was the last major i was going to do but now thinking twice about... They are date stamped the same as the car but still look like new..
Any advice much appreciated.
Thanks.
Russ
PerthDisco
5th December 2016, 08:38 PM
Hey all,
So I'm busy getting the disco ready for a 5 week camping trip(GRR, Coral Bay, Darwin etc) in April/May.
There's a few parts I'm choosing to replace due to 200 000km on our odometer.
4 x air struts being one, has anybody sourced these recently? I just went out to find a part number, but I dont think the fronts are originals, i took some pics or the tag. And can't find a part number for the rears either...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/835.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/836.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/837.jpg
Rearhttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/838.jpg
New door seals, was hoping the dealer wouldn't be too bad a price, don't want to do this one myself as it needs to be done properly.
All cooling/radiator hoses was the last major i was going to do but now thinking twice about... They are date stamped the same as the car but still look like new..
Any advice much appreciated.
Thanks.
Russ
PeterOZ quoted these up in the Where to get Parts sticky towards the end. Keep us informed [emoji106]
Russrobe
5th December 2016, 08:42 PM
I did find the fronts only from island 4x4 but they say OEM not Delphi?? Not much good to me without the rears though.. Was a great price i thought($490aud plus 100gbp shipping) for a pair.
LandyAndy
5th December 2016, 08:47 PM
Russ.
I haven't looked at the D4 seals,but have a way of improving them no end,I did it on my D2.It used to suck dust really bad,this fixed it.
You get flyscreen rubber from Bunnings and put it inside your seals.The seals have "air vents" in them simply slide the tube in.Buy the most pliable,and the smallest diameter.I used a plastic airline as a chaser,2 or 3mm,the stuff they use on truck gear shifters.Run that thru then fix it to the flyscreen rubber,it fits inside,gaffa tape it too.Use lots of silicone spray as a lube,pull very slow and gently,hang on this is sounding like porn.Try and work it so the run avoids the 90deg bends as much as possible.There are multiple "air vents" in the seal(in a D2)so you can run a few chasers before drawing the flyscreen rubber.
We did a mates 100 Series too,his was much worse than my D2,solved his problem too.
Only pull gently,it can damage the door seal on tight bends.Use the airline I mentioned to join the ends of flyscreen tube;);););)
Worth looking at,will save you$$$$$$$$$$
Andrew
Narangga
5th December 2016, 08:57 PM
Hey all,
So I'm busy getting the disco ready for a 5 week camping trip(GRR, Coral Bay, Darwin etc) in April/May.
There's a few parts I'm choosing to replace due to 200 000km on our odometer.
4 x air struts being one, has anybody sourced these recently? I just went out to find a part number, but I dont think the fronts are originals, i took some pics or the tag. And can't find a part number for the rears either...
Will have to undertake an inspection of your work on this when you finally get here Russ... :angel:
Russrobe
5th December 2016, 09:03 PM
Russ.
I haven't looked at the D4 seals,but have a way of improving them no end,I did it on my D2.It used to suck dust really bad,this fixed it.
You get flyscreen rubber from Bunnings and put it inside your seals.The seals have "air vents" in them simply slide the tube in.Buy the most pliable,and the smallest diameter.I used a plastic airline as a chaser,2 or 3mm,the stuff they use on truck gear shifters.Run that thru then fix it to the flyscreen rubber,it fits inside,gaffa tape it too.Use lots of silicone spray as a lube,pull very slow and gently,hang on this is sounding like porn.Try and work it so the run avoids the 90deg bends as much as possible.There are multiple "air vents" in the seal(in a D2)so you can run a few chasers before drawing the flyscreen rubber.
We did a mates 100 Series too,his was much worse than my D2,solved his problem too.
Only pull gently,it can damage the door seal on tight bends.Use the airline I mentioned to join the ends of flyscreen tube;);););)
Worth looking at,will save you$$$$$$$$$$
Andrew
Thanks Andy, will have to try it on new ones maybe though as mine have worn through so badly on two doors that there is literally a 1 inch hole in the tube.... A few people have complained about brand new seals I've noticed so will be giving it a shot. Also need to remove the tail lights and silicon up the wire gromit after i hacked at it for the anderson cable...
LandyAndy
5th December 2016, 09:48 PM
Thanks Andy, will have to try it on new ones maybe though as mine have worn through so badly on two doors that there is literally a 1 inch hole in the tube.... A few people have complained about brand new seals I've noticed so will be giving it a shot. Also need to remove the tail lights and silicon up the wire gromit after i hacked at it for the anderson cable...
Perhaps a flywire tube job and sillycum,no maybe Sika Flex will still be much cheaper than genuine.
I repaired a few holes in my D2 with black sikaflex at the same time,simply paste it on and cover with gladwrap,it sets overnite,gladwrap eventually breaks down,leaves the sikaflex shiny.
Andrew
LRD414
5th December 2016, 10:41 PM
I just went out to find a part number, but I dont think the fronts are originals, i took some pics or the tag. And can't find a part number for the rears either...
Russ, part numbers easily sourced from lrcat.com
Front - LR032646
Rear - LR038096
These are the D4 part numbers. The digits on the actual struts shown in your photos are the supplier part numbers which can be used for some things but are not always useful.
Should be able to source from a few UK outlets using those numbers, e.g. lrdirect or Duckworths.
Trip sounds great. Cheers,
Scott
Russrobe
6th December 2016, 11:52 AM
Russ, part numbers easily sourced from lrcat.com
Front - LR032646
Rear - LR038096
These are the D4 part numbers. The digits on the actual struts shown in your photos are the supplier part numbers which can be used for some things but are not always useful.
Should be able to source from a few UK outlets using those numbers, e.g. lrdirect or Duckworths.
Trip sounds great. Cheers,
Scott
Thanks Scott, I'll bookmark that website.
Now, which of the 5 brands of air struts available do you choose... Land rover are double the price of OE and Dunlop....
Fatso
6th December 2016, 05:24 PM
Dunlop would seem to be a goer at least i know the name !! , any one know how the struts are freighted over to oz , a set of 4 would be a bit heavy for air freight i would imagine .
rar110
6th December 2016, 05:33 PM
I've read Delphi are better, at least in the L322.
Russrobe
6th December 2016, 05:59 PM
I've read Delphi are better, at least in the L322.
Assuming Delphi would be the Land Rover brand?? I was looking for Delphi but am yet to find them...
Lr direct are calling them shock absorbers rather than air struts... Hope it's both for that price.
shanegtr
6th December 2016, 06:15 PM
I got the Dunlops in the front of my D3, no issues so far after 51,000km
Graeme
6th December 2016, 07:34 PM
The shocks in the not so expensive Delphi D3/D4 complete assemblies that I fitted to my D4 didn't last very long (40K?) on my roughish roads so I then purchased genuine LR bare shocks and re-used the air-springs for a much more controlled ride.
Russrobe
6th December 2016, 07:49 PM
The shocks in the not so expensive Delphi D3/D4 complete assemblies that I fitted to my D4 didn't last very long (40K?) on my roughish roads so I then purchased genuine LR bare shocks and re-used the air-springs for a much more controlled ride.
LR Direct - AU$ 2469.01 Air freight included for front and rear.
That is exactly what i budgeted so might be worth spending the extra money for originals....
Ah so Delphi is another aftermarket brand...
I plan on fitting them myself after watching a you tube clip of a guy doing one in 20 minutes.
Really not sure if i'm looking at air struts or just shocks because it says shock absorber assy and has no pics. Island 4x4 is much better with pictures and actually calling it an air strut assembly... Unfortunately they only have fronts and OEM brand.
Graeme
6th December 2016, 08:03 PM
Duckworths were cheaper than LRDirect when I bought mine.
Don't forget to budget for import duties & GST!
LandyAndy
6th December 2016, 08:57 PM
Have you given Mario and Heather a chance to quote????
Send them a PM,Roverlord is their username.
Ive used them a lot in the past for D2/Deefer parts.They do a better price via PM than Ebay.
Nothing ventured,nothing gained.
Andrew
Russrobe
7th December 2016, 07:29 AM
Duckworths were cheaper than LRDirect when I bought mine.
Don't forget to budget for import duties & GST!
Duckworths are a much nicer $2100 shipped meaning i could probably still make my $2500 budget with taxes. Not sure I'll get much better than that. Great value for what they are. I've paid more for bilsteins with good springs on previous cars...
Fatso
7th December 2016, 07:50 AM
Google in oz , i have seen complete struts at allfourx4 in sydney for $475 x ea front and $385 x ea rear . Not sure what brand but could be Dunlops .
Russrobe
7th December 2016, 09:04 AM
Google in oz , i have seen complete struts at allfourx4 in sydney for $475 x ea front and $385 x ea rear . Not sure what brand but could be Dunlops .
Think I'm just going to pay the extra $500 and stick with originals. They've lasted 200 000kms and counting so be worth a bit extra...
LGM
7th December 2016, 09:35 AM
I'm with Russrobe. I have ordered genuine LR front struts. The originals have lasted 5 plus years and almost 200,000km so what's not to like?
My D4 has 197300km on the clock and I am starting to notice a slight float in the front end. Once the front struts have been replaced and my bank account recovers a little, I will do the backs as well.
I do understand the impact of financial pressures on folks but in my experience, each time I stray from the path of righteousness (LR), one way or another I get burnt! :o
PerthDisco
7th December 2016, 09:37 AM
I'm still confused if the air bag part lasts for ever or the shock is what is being talked about here with different brands mentioned (LR, Dunlop etc) - certainly the Dunlop Volley is a long lived product [emoji1][emoji1] - is there any choice other than LR on the air bag part? I have seen an American product mentioned.
I'm hoping to see a detailed How To Guide emerge from this one for those in the 'it's a keeper category'. I saw you need to air down via a device before disconnecting.
Russrobe
7th December 2016, 10:22 AM
I'm still confused if the air bag part lasts for ever or the shock is what is being talked about here with different brands mentioned (LR, Dunlop etc) - certainly the Dunlop Volley is a long lived product [emoji1][emoji1] - is there any choice other than LR on the air bag part? I have seen an American product mentioned.
I'm hoping to see a detailed How To Guide emerge from this one for those in the 'it's a keeper category'. I saw you need to air down via a device before disconnecting.
I've only heard of a couple of air bags blowing out, really I'm only replacing the whole unit together because it's only a small saving to buy the shock absorber by itself. And my shock absorbers will be nearly worn out.
All of the above prices are for the entire unit which can be replaced by yourself. If you want to do the shock absorber only you will need to send the air strut to a shop to remove and replace the shock as it requires stripping down the air strut to replace.
You don't even need an iid tool as you can air down via the valve block. Will be easier with one though..
shanegtr
7th December 2016, 10:36 AM
I'm still confused if the air bag part lasts for ever or the shock is what is being talked about here with different brands mentioned (LR, Dunlop etc) - certainly the Dunlop Volley is a long lived product [emoji1][emoji1] - is there any choice other than LR on the air bag part? I have seen an American product mentioned.
I'm hoping to see a detailed How To Guide emerge from this one for those in the 'it's a keeper category'. I saw you need to air down via a device before disconnecting.
The air bag part certainly doesn't last forever - the reason I changed my front struts was for an airbag leak. That was around 171,000km mark
gandalf
7th December 2016, 10:59 AM
Try Karcraft in Silverwater in Sydney for Delphi Air Shocks
A good price I think
Graeme
7th December 2016, 11:36 AM
There were substantial internal cracks on the folds of my D4's original air-springs at 90K kms. I'm very surprised that others have lasted 200K.
Russrobe
7th December 2016, 12:01 PM
There were substantial internal cracks on the folds of my D4's original air-springs at 90K kms. I'm very surprised that others have lasted 200K.
Still tempted to burn the old ones out this trip and replace when we return. Taking a front and a rear with us just in case....
Only thing stopping me is the thread about over extension, which mine don't seem to be doing(yet).
rar110
7th December 2016, 12:04 PM
The air suspension on my 08 L322 is original other than rear shocks, and coming up to 260,000km. However I have new front struts/springs on hand ready.
Tombie
7th December 2016, 12:12 PM
Think I'm just going to pay the extra $500 and stick with originals. They've lasted 200 000kms and counting so be worth a bit extra...
I'll bet they didn't. They would have been done by 100k... it's the gradual degradation that fools the senses...
You'll be amazed at the ride once they're replaced [emoji41]
Narangga
7th December 2016, 12:13 PM
There were substantial internal cracks on the folds of my D4's original air-springs at 90K kms. I'm very surprised that others have lasted 200K.
From what I can tell I am still on the originals on all four corners at 241K.
No doubt replacing them all would help but I know it still wouldn't handle like the RRS that lives down the road. :(
Russrobe
7th December 2016, 03:38 PM
I'll bet they didn't. They would have been done by 100k... it's the gradual degradation that fools the senses...
You'll be amazed at the ride once they're replaced [emoji41]
Not to mention if they were gone before I bought it, I'd be none the wiser because I've only driven one D4, the one we have..
Tombie
7th December 2016, 04:57 PM
Not to mention if they were gone before I bought it, I'd be none the wiser because I've only driven one D4, the one we have..
I still enjoyed the ride of mine as the bushes failed..
New bushes and I was reminded just how fantastic they really are!
Russrobe
8th December 2016, 10:35 AM
All ordered $2160 + import taxes(GST).
Probably could have ordered one at a time to save the 10% but i don't have that long to wait... Most likey would have increased shipping anyway.
Fatso
8th December 2016, 02:41 PM
All ordered $2160 + import taxes(GST).
Probably could have ordered one at a time to save the 10% but i don't have that long to wait... Most likey would have increased shipping anyway.
What sort , where from , sea or air freight , how do you pay the GST . Ta .
Russrobe
8th December 2016, 05:33 PM
Land Rover originals. Duckworths air freight and apparently customs send you a form asking for a invoice then you get a bill. Trying to find a way to fast track that but doesn't look like there is one...
Russrobe
11th December 2016, 10:36 PM
So turns out if you order these on a Friday you get them on the following Monday. Might be a job for next weekend now!
Scheduled Delivery:
Monday, 12/12/2016, By End of Day
Last Location:
Arrived - Changi, Singapore, Sunday, 12/11/2016
Plane Fixer
12th December 2016, 07:12 AM
You are very optimistic. My experience is that once the shipment reaches Oz it can take up to 4-5 days before it is delivered.
I will be watching this thread re fitment and your experience with the difference before and after.
PeterOZ
12th December 2016, 12:44 PM
Still waiting to get mine. Short on $$ as have fitted roof rails, cross bars and an awning.
Mine is at $208k km and definitely needs to be done.
What % are import duties does anybody know and does GST get paid on top of the duties or just the items plus shipping costs?
PerthDisco
12th December 2016, 03:18 PM
So turns out if you order these on a Friday you get them on the following Monday. Might be a job for next weekend now!
Scheduled Delivery:
Monday, 12/12/2016, By End of Day
Last Location:
Arrived - Changi, Singapore, Sunday, 12/11/2016
Russrobe please start taking photos from the minute you open the packet as looking forward to a detailed report on this topic!
TuffRR
12th December 2016, 05:51 PM
Fitting is pretty easy for the fronts. When you get around to it, we found access to the back nut easiest from the top with a wobble bar.
I'm not so positive about the genuine LR shocks. Less than 100k on mine and they were over-extending (as per the other thread). Given this performance, it didn't make sense to pay twice as much for these than OEM.
Russrobe
12th December 2016, 06:03 PM
Fitting is pretty easy for the fronts. When you get around to it, we found access to the back nut easiest from the top with a wobble bar.
I'm not so positive about the genuine LR shocks. Less than 100k on mine and they were over-extending (as per the other thread). Given this performance, it didn't make sense to pay twice as much for these than OEM.
Yeah it was more Graeme's 30-40k kms out of new Delphis that had me convinced on genuine. I'd be fuming if i had to replace them after 12 months or 30k kms which i average atm. Even 100k would be great value in comparison.
Ah sweet. I was going to hunt down a long spanner like in the youtube video. Good to know a wobbly will fit..
Russrobe
13th December 2016, 02:32 PM
Sitting in the workshop thats a order Friday drop off Tuesday! No tax no import fees due to them individually boxing and invoiced=)
LGM
13th December 2016, 10:18 PM
My 2011 D4 had 194,187km on the clock as at yesterday afternoon. I have had the front struts replaced today with the genuine LR article. The work was done by my local service agent and yep it was costly, but I am really pleased with the result.
Whilst their is no obvious visual sign that the old ones are stuffed you only have to drive the D4 now to understand the difference. In reality the old struts / shocks / airbags really did deteriorate quite a lot over time.
I guess I will get the back struts done in the new year. Once my bank balance recovers from the shock a little bit.
LandyAndy
13th December 2016, 10:29 PM
Slithering thru your part of the world on the 21st at great speed on the way to Northhampton,(Lingalonga farm stay) for atleast 10 nites.
Andrew
LGM
13th December 2016, 10:36 PM
Remember our local constabulary are renowned trappers. They sure do work the roads around here so steady as you go.
PerthDisco
14th December 2016, 10:42 AM
My 2011 D4 had 194,187km on the clock as at yesterday afternoon. I have had the front struts replaced today with the genuine LR article. The work was done by my local service agent and yep it was costly, but I am really pleased with the result.
Whilst their is no obvious visual sign that the old ones are stuffed you only have to drive the D4 now to understand the difference. In reality the old struts / shocks / airbags really did deteriorate quite a lot over time.
I guess I will get the back struts done in the new year. Once my bank balance recovers from the shock a little bit.
Sir, What was the the ballpark $$? Did combine with anything else, LCA etc?
LGM
14th December 2016, 11:54 PM
Around $2k all up and no other work was done. :o
Each strut was $869 including GST. Add to that the labor and you get the picture. Mind you I was warned prior to getting the job done so I could have gone down a different path had I wanted. As for the LCA's I already had the Lower Control Arms re-bushed a few months back. Given that I use my vehicle in the workplace all the costs I incur go into my vehicle log and a percentage some will come back via the taxman at the end of the financial year.:cool:
Now I understand had badly deteriorated the front struts were I will definitely get the rear struts done in the new year.
I have used the UK and local suppliers on other occasions but have had mixed results and been burnt on more than one occasion with product/s that I regarded as inferior. Windscreen plenum for my wife's D2 s was the last example that springs to mind. :mad:
LM
Russrobe
15th December 2016, 08:28 AM
$869 x 4 = $3476 plus labour vs. $2160($540ea ).
If these are as easy to fit as I've observed then with a hoist you will be looking at about 15mins a corner.
On jacks in the garage maybe 20-25mins.
Negatives, LR (manufacturer not dealer) has poorly packed these so the rubber boots have worn a hole through from the base of the box.
Duckworths have impeccable service. Sent over 4 x rubber boot kits 15mins after I emailed them with photos.
Fatso
15th December 2016, 10:43 AM
25 mins x ea corner , will be interested to see how you go with fitting , does a re calibration of the eas system have to e done after fitting new struts ?? .
Graeme
15th December 2016, 11:40 AM
No recalibration is needed as the height sensors are untouched in the process.
Russrobe
15th December 2016, 11:45 AM
No recalibration is needed as the height sensors are untouched in the process.
I thought not either, it was the youtube clip from Atlantic British that i got that from.
https://youtu.be/PaOWxVMqH-c
It does look very easy though (just measuring fron guard to centre of wheel then entering into bt iid for all corners.
Graeme
15th December 2016, 03:57 PM
There is absolutely no requirement to recalibrate as neither the height sensors nor the upper control arms to which the height sensor links are attached are removed. Anyone recalibrating because the air-spring assemblies are replaced doesn't understand the roles of the air-springs and height sensors.
Russrobe
15th December 2016, 06:17 PM
There is absolutely no requirement to recalibrate as neither the height sensors nor the upper control arms to which the height sensor links are attached are removed. Anyone recalibrating because the air-spring assemblies are replaced doesn't understand the roles of the air-springs and height sensors.
Great, simple job made even simpler.
Graeme
15th December 2016, 07:03 PM
I couldn't find a way to get access to the front top inner nut from above and a bracket fitted under that nut and another made it difficult to turn a spanner so refitted the bracket only under the 2nd nut when refitting to make it easier next time. The 2nd time I didn't remove the guard liner thinking it would save time but that restricted my ability to lower the assembly with the airline attached so reverted to removing the liner on the next swap. I tended to loose skin R&R'ing the inner nuts and the airline fittings were sometimes difficult to start without cross-threading too.
The rears were quick to R&R due to adequate clearance at the top. I could remove a rear assembly, swap the air-spring to the new shock then refit the assembly in about half an hour.
Russrobe
15th December 2016, 07:06 PM
I couldn't find a way to get access to the front top inner nut from above and a bracket fitted under that nut and another made it difficult to turn a spanner so refitted the bracket only under the 2nd nut when refitting to make it easier next time. The 2nd time I didn't remove the guard liner thinking it would save time but that restricted my ability to lower the assembly with the airline attached so reverted to removing the liner on the next swap. I tended to loose skin R&R'ing the inner nuts and the airline fittings were sometimes difficult to start without cross-threading too.
The rears were quick to R&R due to adequate clearance at the top. I could remove a rear assembly, swap the air-spring to the new shock then refit the assembly in about half an hour.
Did you have a extra long spanner for the tops? The one used in the above video is quite long. Was going to try sourcing one. So far can only find them from the UK on ebay...
Graeme
16th December 2016, 08:49 AM
I didn't have a ratchet spanner initially, nor a long handle fixed ring spanner. They would definitely have made the task easier.
Grentarc
16th December 2016, 09:47 AM
Did you have a extra long spanner for the tops? The one used in the above video is quite long. Was going to try sourcing one. So far can only find them from the UK on ebay...
Best of both worlds
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111936874354
Russrobe
16th December 2016, 11:58 AM
Best of both worlds
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111936874354
Ah, now i see why i can't find them. Harder to find individually.
Russrobe
19th December 2016, 06:46 PM
Update. New boots arrived. Just fitted them, very easy job.https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/358.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/359.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/360.jpg
Hopefully get a couple fitted tomorrow.
Russrobe
19th December 2016, 06:48 PM
Beaware the fronts no longer come with these if ordering.
mowog
20th December 2016, 06:42 AM
I just had mine done by British Off Road on the Sunshine Coast.
I have an 09 Build D4 it has done 120k I did have the rear's replaced under warranty at 50K. We do tow a big van so the suspension works hard.
I am very happy with the outcome.
gotaflat
20th December 2016, 09:40 AM
Beware the fronts no longer come with these if ordering.
For the un-informed (and about to do the same job) - that is 4 boots (front and back?) you had to order ...or top and bottom boots on the front?
- also what are you using to deflate the air bags etc. ?
Thanks
Russrobe
20th December 2016, 11:53 AM
The boots come in kits with clamps and both boots for each corner individually.
The rears come fitted but the fronts come with nothing.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/342.jpg
I have a BT IID tool to deflate the system.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/310.jpg
TuffRR
20th December 2016, 03:02 PM
Mine didn't come with the boots, and didn't think of it at the time. Just noticed in the Youtube fitting clip, they also fit up the fronts without the boots. I may have to check my originals to see if they are fitted and whether i can transfer over (if required)?
TuffRR
20th December 2016, 05:22 PM
Just checked originals. These didn't have boots fitted either - perhaps they are not standard fitment for certain years?
shanegtr
20th December 2016, 07:19 PM
My replacement fronts never had any boots on, and neither did the ones I removed (LR parts but cant be 100% sure they where original fitment) so I didn't think anything of it
rar110
20th December 2016, 08:06 PM
Interesting. These look very different to L322 EAS struts. I just replaced what I believe are the original fronts at about 260,000km. The front OEMs were labelled with Delphi and LR part numbers. The replacements were Delphi.
Russrobe
20th December 2016, 09:14 PM
Two front are done. Ended up taking an hour and 45 mins.
1 trolley jack
2 jack stands
1 long 15mm ratchet spanner (lifesaver for a bolt someone had put locktite on at the rear, of course)
See video for other tools, better than i can describe. Accept i used normal long nose pliers.
My old front struts had no boots either. New ones do now though. I like the idea of covering up the bags internally from dust.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/311.jpg
gotaflat
20th December 2016, 09:48 PM
The boots come in kits with clamps and both boots for each corner individually.
The rears come fitted but the fronts come with nothing.
I have a BT IID tool to deflate the system.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/310.jpg
Like a $600 IID tool?
Tombie
20th December 2016, 10:08 PM
Which is cheaper than 1 diagnostic visit to a dealer or a tow from out somewhere; so worth every cent
LRD414
20th December 2016, 10:43 PM
I did have the rear's replaced under warranty at 50K. We do tow a big van so the suspension works hard.
What were your symptoms leading to warranty replacement?
Scott
Russrobe
20th December 2016, 11:09 PM
Like a $600 IID tool?
Yup as Tombie said alread paid for itself 2x over in 4 months. Reprogrammed 2 x ebay key fobs for $50each = $350ea saving. Now this another $500 minimum because I couldn't do the job without it. Even though you can defalte via the valve block, I prefer this way.
Russrobe
20th December 2016, 11:36 PM
Biggest difference i noticed is in the body roll when cornering. Was getting quite bad. Much better now.
gotaflat
21st December 2016, 08:07 AM
Yup as Tombie said alread paid for itself 2x over in 4 months. Reprogrammed 2 x ebay key fobs for $50each = $350ea saving. Now this another $500 minimum because I couldn't do the job without it. Even though you can defalte via the valve block, I prefer this way.
I see ebay for $800 - any better ideas?
Tombie
21st December 2016, 08:39 AM
I see ebay for $800 - any better ideas?
Direct from Island 4x4 will get you a better deal
Grentarc
21st December 2016, 08:47 AM
I see ebay for $800 - any better ideas?
Have a look at the sticky thread in regards to the group buy - I have a feeling it is mentioned there.
Edit- Sticky seems to be gone now, here is a link
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/group-buy/239881-iidtool-bluetooth-group-buy.html
Graeme
22nd December 2016, 05:55 AM
The air can be released without using a diagnostic tool by loosening the air fitting enough to allow air to escape.
Russrobe
22nd December 2016, 10:24 AM
One more trick, if you have a spare person around that can hold the new strut high enough while you attach the air line before mounting the strut like he does in the video, it will make the job much easier. (Front only, rears are easier to fit last.)
If you're by yourself though you will have to feel around for it like he has in the video to refit after mounting.
Russrobe
22nd December 2016, 01:59 PM
Also noticed yesterday after 8000kms my tyres are badly scolloped. So badly that I only just saved my $300ea Bridgestones from being destroyed from worn shocks. Check how your tyres are wearing!!!
Russrobe
22nd December 2016, 02:01 PM
They're wearing just like the second image on this.https://goo.gl/images/NJ8ICL
Tombie
22nd December 2016, 03:01 PM
Yep. Sounds right. The wheels will have been tramping a little due to shock wear...
Shocks really don't last beyond 100k...
It's just gradual degradation that we don't notice it..
Russrobe
22nd December 2016, 03:19 PM
Yep. Sounds right. The wheels will have been tramping a little due to shock wear...
Shocks really don't last beyond 100k...
It's just gradual degradation that we don't notice it..
Very happy i got them done. I noticed literally 1 week after I got the tyres done they started to wear like this but silly me didn't put two and two together until I took the tyres off.
Russrobe
22nd December 2016, 11:04 PM
Finished fitting the rears this morning so all done. Corners much better now, going to do a rotation on the tyres which hopefully saves them.
Unfortunately it looks like the auxiliary tank took up the extra space i should have had to get to the back strut bolt on the LR so it still took a little over 30 mins. The RR on the other hand was done in 20mins.
I'm guessing someone has repla ed my air lines at some stage. Some are black, some are green. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/270.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/271.jpg
Lifting new strut in with jack.
Did the rears by myself.
TuffRR
23rd December 2016, 07:41 AM
I'm guessing someone has repla ed my air lines at some stage. Some are black, some are green.
They may be colour coded for each side. From memory my front right was black and front left was green.
Fatso
23rd December 2016, 08:07 AM
I have black and green on my 2007 RRS .
LRD414
23rd December 2016, 09:00 AM
If it is just the shocks that are worn out, would there be any value in keeping the old air springs and fitting with new shocks? Or is shock reconditioning feasible? Perhaps not cost effective and then the air spring life has to be long enough. Probably only worth considering if an air spring was good for 200k. I recall a YouTube link where shock only was replaced, I think on a RR.
Scott
Russrobe
23rd December 2016, 09:52 AM
If it is just the shocks that are worn out, would there be any value in keeping the old air springs and fitting with new shocks? Or is shock reconditioning feasible? Perhaps not cost effective and then the air spring life has to be long enough. Probably only worth considering if an air spring was good for 200k. I recall a YouTube link where shock only was replaced, I think on a RR.
Scott
I'd say yes, with half the kms on them. Graeme found cracks in a weld on his old ones i think... Would have to be significantly cheaper than the $500ea i paid...
Bit of perspective for other 4x4s, the airbags alone from Airbag Man, to go inside the springs at Opposite Lock are $300 ea. Then they need a 2" lift so new springs plus shocks.... Love Discoverys...
They may be colour coded for each side. From memory my front right was black and front left was green.
Russrobe
23rd December 2016, 01:27 PM
One last thing on this, the bottom bolt can be very tight. I gave up on trying to get it undone with a breaker bar(after using enough force to lift the entire hub).
I had a compressor and air gun, so just hit it with that. If you have a pipe or anything for extra leverage though, you should still be able to get it undone as the rattle gun did not struggle at all.
I only did 1 out of 4 by hand....
That's it.
Tombie
23rd December 2016, 02:31 PM
Job well done...
Get in the gym and do all by hand next time [emoji41][emoji41](just taking the ****). Have a great Xmas
Russrobe
23rd December 2016, 07:12 PM
Job well done...
Get in the gym and do all by hand next time [emoji41][emoji41](just taking the ****). Have a great Xmas
Likewise Tombie, all the best.
gotaflat
10th January 2017, 10:58 AM
Just about to order the air struts and replace them all around...is there anything else I should be doing at the same time?
FYG I have replaced the lower control arms already. what about tie rod ends etc?
And While I would like to do it myself as it seems not a bad job - its likely I will get it done at an independent or something (just lack time for the process and the wife may object to me having the Disco off the road for a few days as I do it.
Cheers.
Russrobe
10th January 2017, 01:22 PM
Just about to order the air struts and replace them all around...is there anything else I should be doing at the same time?
FYG I have replaced the lower control arms already. what about tie rod ends etc?
And While I would like to do it myself as it seems not a bad job - its likely I will get it done at an independent or something (just lack time for the process and the wife may object to me having the Disco off the road for a few days as I do it.
Cheers.
If it's any help mine only took 2 sessions of 1.5 hours. And you could do it a lot quicker than that, the last one only took 20 minutes... In other words the car is never really off the road. It's also good practice to get your head around basic fixes before a remote trip...
Not sure what else you would change at the same time. Maybe get mechanic to check all other bushes...
PeterOZ
10th January 2017, 03:46 PM
Just about to order the air struts and replace them all around...is there anything else I should be doing at the same time?
FYG I have replaced the lower control arms already. what about tie rod ends etc?
And While I would like to do it myself as it seems not a bad job - its likely I will get it done at an independent or something (just lack time for the process and the wife may object to me having the Disco off the road for a few days as I do it.
Cheers.
I'd be thinking about the sway bar bushes front and rear and possibly the trailing arms. I just did them on my D3. Not a fun job.
Airstruts when I can afford it.
Fatso
22nd March 2017, 04:28 PM
Just replaced front and rear struts at 161k , wasnt sure if the originals were shot or not but after fitting the new ones there was absolutely no doubt that they were stuffed cant believe the diff in ride . Kept the old ones in case i ever need the air bag part in the future as they did not leak at all .[smilebigeye]
Graeme
26th March 2017, 06:56 AM
You could inspect the insides of the old air-springs looking for cracks at the folds to see if they're worth retaining.
LGM
13th April 2017, 01:30 PM
Had the rear struts replaced yesterday.....gee whiz.....what a difference.......seems like I am driving a new car. [smilebigeye]
Around $2k all up and no other work was done. :o
Each strut was $869 including GST. Add to that the labor and you get the picture. Mind you I was warned prior to getting the job done so I could have gone down a different path had I wanted. As for the LCA's I already had the Lower Control Arms re-bushed a few months back. Given that I use my vehicle in the workplace all the costs I incur go into my vehicle log and a percentage some will come back via the taxman at the end of the financial year.:cool:
Now I understand had badly deteriorated the front struts were I will definitely get the rear struts done in the new year.
I have used the UK and local suppliers on other occasions but have had mixed results and been burnt on more than one occasion with product/s that I regarded as inferior. Windscreen plenum for my wife's D2 s was the last example that springs to mind. :mad:
LM
LRDisco_Fever
13th April 2017, 05:43 PM
Had the rear struts replaced yesterday.....gee whiz.....what a difference.......seems like I am driving a new car. [smilebigeye]
I need do mine. Did the front last year and the ride improvement was incredible.
DiscoJeffster
13th April 2017, 06:48 PM
I need do mine. Did the front last year and the ride improvement was incredible.
Stop this talk! I'm 230k and in denial. I've already got Restricted Performance issue to deal with. Sigh. I don't need this temptation [emoji1]
LRDisco_Fever
13th April 2017, 07:13 PM
Stop this talk! I'm 230k and in denial. I've already got Restricted Performance issue to deal with. Sigh. I don't need this temptation [emoji1]
I hear you mate, I need to do a wheel bearing first, oh and new tires and come to think of it a trans service and brakes and.....[emoji23]
Russrobe
13th April 2017, 07:21 PM
Gah, a wheel bearing. My most dreaded roadside fix. If I do a wheel bearing on GRR I won't be excited about fixing it... Atleast i know it can be done though, unlike other problems.
gandalf
14th April 2017, 09:42 AM
Gah, a wheel bearing. My most dreaded roadside fix. If I do a wheel bearing on GRR I won't be excited about fixing it... Atleast i know it can be done though, unlike other problems.
I trust you are referring to the front wheel bearing, as you won't be replacing the rear one by the roadside
Russrobe
14th April 2017, 09:50 AM
I trust you are referring to the front wheel bearing, as you won't be replacing the rear one by the roadside
Yes fronts much easier seeing as you're just replacing the entire hub assembly in one piece.
Take it you mean you need a press for the new bearing on the rear?
gandalf
14th April 2017, 01:06 PM
Yes fronts much easier seeing as you're just replacing the entire hub assembly in one piece.
Take it you mean you need a press for the new bearing on the rear?
You sure do.
Plus lots of patience, imagination,angle grinder ( you get the general idea).
After 8 hours it was back together, and the bad news there's one more to do.
Any offers😫
Graeme
14th April 2017, 06:45 PM
I've not heard of a D3/4 wheel bearing suddenly failing. They seem to be able to be noisy for a long time and still don't fall apart when removed.
gandalf
15th April 2017, 07:46 AM
I've not heard of a D3/4 wheel bearing suddenly failing. They seem to be able to be noisy for a long time and still don't fall apart when removed.
The nearside bearing I just replaced had some movement in it, and when the hub was pushed out left the outer taper bearing on the hub shaft.
There was just dry grease in what was left of the bearing and a lot of movement.
The taper bearing left on the shaft had to be cut off. It broke my bearing puller.
Certainly built very solid, but not designed to be be replaced easily.
shanegtr
15th April 2017, 07:56 AM
I've not heard of a D3/4 wheel bearing suddenly failing. They seem to be able to be noisy for a long time and still don't fall apart when removed.
My left rear bearing have a very rapid failure a month or so ago. No noise leading up to the failure. Failed just as I was leaving Perth to come home so lucky I wasnt half way home when it happened as that would have been an expensive tow job
Graeme
15th April 2017, 09:51 AM
The taper bearing left on the shaft had to be cut off.Did you cut it most of the way through with an angle grinder then split it with a cold chisel?
gandalf
15th April 2017, 02:05 PM
Did you cut it most of the way through with an angle grinder then split it with a cold chisel?
Well! Wasn't quite that easy.
It ended up with multiple angled cuts, one a little bit further than most of the way through😖, the cast part broke leaving parts of the race not wanting to give.
Brought a new puller this morning, not a cheap ebay one.
Round 2 next week ( maybe).
I thought after 50 years of collecting tools I would have everything I would need,but then I bought a Discovery
Russrobe
15th April 2017, 02:11 PM
Too bad you can't just replace the whole section, what's left after the hub and bearing anyway!
shanegtr
15th April 2017, 02:28 PM
Too bad you can't just replace the whole section, what's left after the hub and bearing anyway!
Well you could do it, but the cost is a fair bit more to purchase the knuckle, hub, bearing, brake backing plate, bushes etc....
Towcar
23rd June 2019, 05:11 PM
The shocks in the not so expensive Delphi D3/D4 complete assemblies that I fitted to my D4 didn't last very long (40K?) on my roughish roads so I then purchased genuine LR bare shocks and re-used the air-springs for a much more controlled ride.
Graeme,
Did you replace with struts from UK and they started to get harsh?
I have only done 50xxxkms in 12 months on mine and they don't do anything dangerous but it's an exhausting ride...no longer plush :( I feel like they have just gotten stiff and I can feel every inch of the road
How did you get the strut component only?
Was it hard to replace? Could you do all 4 in a day?
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