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View Full Version : Td5 Glow Plugs



d2dave
11th December 2016, 02:43 PM
I want to remove and test my glow plugs. Rave says to remove the wire and the unscrew the plug.

Sounds simple. I cant even get my fingers in there to remove the plug.

Who has done it and what is involved?

03 Disco.

Blknight.aus
11th December 2016, 03:53 PM
remove the wire with 45 degree long nose short tip pliers remove the glow plug with a swivel drive and suitable socket. some brands will need it to be a deep reach.

i usually get to them by removing the intake manifold. lets face it thats going to want cleaning out too.

Sent from my SM-G920I using AULRO mobile app

sierrafery
11th December 2016, 08:04 PM
You can test them in situ by measuring resistance across it's terminal and head...a good one has very close to 0.9 Ohm

Roverlord off road spares
12th December 2016, 11:54 AM
Re removing glow plugs, I don't know if they snap off at the base on the D2s , but on Disco3 and RRS 2.7s and RR L322s appear to do this.
I just watched a vid on the broken removal process on a L322 3.0 litre .
Makes me think twice in attempting to remove them.
fullfatrr.com - View topic - HOWTO: TD6'02 FFRR "Changing" Glow Plugs (http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post248699.html)

sierrafery
12th December 2016, 01:55 PM
Re removing glow plugs, I don't know if they snap off at the base on the D2s , but on Disco3 and RRS 2.7s and RR L322s appear to do this.
I just watched a vid on the broken removal process on a L322 3.0 litre .
Makes me think twice in attempting to remove them.
fullfatrr.com - View topic - HOWTO: TD6'02 FFRR "Changing" Glow Plugs (http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post248699.html)
When they were changed on my D2 the cylinder head had to be removed cos the heating element of one was bulged, it snapped inside and was so stuck that there was no other way just to be tapped out with a taper pin from outside

Roverlord off road spares
12th December 2016, 11:33 PM
Question, are glow plugs really necessary in most of the Australian environment? It's not like in countries that have harsh winter conditions. May be some one living in Thredbo over winter then yes, but for the average driver?
I had a few people mention that they aren't really needed for most.

sierrafery
12th December 2016, 11:40 PM
IMO they are needed anyway as long as it's not certain that the coolant tenmp will always stay above +20*C cos they are not there only for starting, the "post heat" operation is important to prolonge the engine's life and protect it from excessive deposits, for this mode the plugs are kept under feed after the engine was started untill the coolant temp reaches 20*C

Blknight.aus
13th December 2016, 12:24 AM
they are needed on everything after the TD5 as the glow plugs help stabalise the cold (or cool running) light of pattern as well as providing the heat to start off the process of getting the fire down to the DPF to regen it.

PhilipA
13th December 2016, 08:25 AM
I have never had my Glow Plug light illuminate in 3.5 years , even with temperatures below 20C Eg say 15 or maybe less on my dry sensor Gauge which is pretty close to my ECU sensor reading.

This includes a trip to Swampy Plains where it gets cold at night.

Is this covered by a fault if one fails?

Regards Philip A

sierrafery
13th December 2016, 08:54 AM
If you have nanocom go into BCU settings - INSTRUMENT PACK and make sure it's not set for petrol cos the glow plug warning should come on at least for self test...if it's set to diesel you can go to INSTRUMENT and you can test the lamp from there if it's working or not

d2dave
13th December 2016, 10:29 AM
IMO they are needed anyway as long as it's not certain that the coolant tenmp will always stay above +20*C cos they are not there only for starting, the "post heat" operation is important to prolonge the engine's life and protect it from excessive deposits, for this mode the plugs are kept under feed after the engine was started untill the coolant temp reaches 20*C

So what happens to number 5 cyl. Does it have a shorter life?

sierrafery
13th December 2016, 10:37 AM
If you'll remove the head once you'll see clearely the difference how the 5'th cylinder and the associated valves are more "contaminated"... provided the other 4 were working well all the time

PhilipA
13th December 2016, 12:51 PM
I guess I should have been more precise.

I have never had the glow plug light illuminate for 3.5 years ,Except for the self test that lasts about 2 seconds.

BTW ,when I checked just now it reminded me that I have never had the water in fuel filter light illuminate, except for the self check. They are next to each other. Funny how some have had lots of trouble with them.

If it was only chaffing wires one would think LR should have fixed it rather than deleting the light. Waterwatch and others make lots of money fitting aftermarket sensore to Jap cars . Go figgure.

Regards Philip A

Roverlord off road spares
13th December 2016, 01:56 PM
So what happens to number 5 cyl. Does it have a shorter life?
Isn't number 5 the cylinder that gets "dusted" ? co incidence?

sierrafery
13th December 2016, 07:26 PM
I guess I should have been more precise.

I have never had the glow plug light illuminate for 3.5 years ,Except for the self test that lasts about 2 seconds.

BTW ,when I checked just now it reminded me that I have never had the water in fuel filter light illuminate, except for the self check. They are next to each other. Funny how some have had lots of trouble with them.

If it was only chaffing wires one would think LR should have fixed it rather than deleting the light. Waterwatch and others make lots of money fitting aftermarket sensore to Jap cars . Go figgure.

Regards Philip A
Maybe OffTrack or somebody else who can dig within the ECU's brain could tell us how the glow plugs management is set and what's the temperature limit where the ''pre-heat'' operation begins and how the operation time is calculated cos that's coincident with the warning lamp operation too... what i did was to bring a wire into the cabin from the glow plug relay output, connected a bulb to it and watching ECT with nanocom i clocked the post heat operation... i've got between 1 and 3 minutes depending on outside temp untill the bulb extinguished and it happenned all the time when the ECT reached 20*C.(i made these tests in october - november last year in different days while the outside temp in the morning varied between 0 - 10*C and kept the FBH on to not let the engine idle too much)

LandyAndy
13th December 2016, 09:38 PM
You will know when they aren't working.In winter you don't get that instant fire and instant smooth idle.
Don't buy cheap replacements,they only last 18months down here.
Even in summer you can tell when you loose one.
Andrew

d2dave
15th December 2016, 11:41 AM
You will know when they aren't working.In winter you don't get that instant fire and instant smooth idle.
Don't buy cheap replacements,they only last 18months down here.
Even in summer you can tell when you loose one.
Andrew

Andy. This is the reason for my thread. I am having all sorts of issues with my engine, mainly blowing a lot of black smoke, especially when first started and then only at idle.
For the first minute at about 1200 rpm it is really running rough.

Once driven all is fine, except for small amounts of black smoke at idle.

Although I don't think that glow plugs are causing this, I am about to do something that I have never done before and that is to take it to a repair shop:(.

I want to make sure that things I can do are done to eliminate labor costs.

Disco Muppet
15th December 2016, 12:27 PM
My td5 is currently in bits.
I undid the glowplugs by putting a 10mm socket over it. This results in half the socket space being occupied by the glowplug, preventing the driver bit from securely going in.
However I used the deepest socket I had, and simply put as much of the driver bit into the socket as I could.
It worked.
But if you have them, a good deep 10mm socket should work :)