Toe out

[gruntfuttock]

I have a slight toe out on one side (RHF). The local LR agent tells me to go an see beurepairs, they tell me they don't know :roll: .

Is there any way to correct this??

[DEFENDERZOOK]

<span style="color:blue">buy a new right shoe.....!! 8O




you need to adjust the tierod to bring in the right hand wheel only without moving
the left wheel....



what brought this on suddenly....?
has anything bent worn or broken to cause this....?</span>

[darb]

Get them to adjust the toe in to 0-2mm (preferably closer to 0mm). This is done by adjusting the track rod (the one behind the front diff).

Brad

[gruntfuttock]

Maybe I explained it wrong. The bottom of the tyre is too far out. The top of the tyre should be futher out than the bottom, which in my case the difference between top and bottom is not enough.

[abaddonxi]

Wouldn't that be camber rather than toe out/in?

Cheers
Simon

[gruntfuttock]

Stuffed if I know. I always thought it was toe out or toe in as it is on the bottom of the tyre. I could be wrong. But anyways that is what is wrong

[abaddonxi]

Have a look at this page -

http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

That's what I was going on.

Cheers
Simon

[DEFENDERZOOK]

<span style="color:green">yes....its got too much negative camber....


hopefully its just a loose wheel bearing.....
or possibly a collapsed swivel hub bearing......
jack up one wheel and with one hand on the top of the tyre and one on the bottom...
see if you can rock it back and forth....see if it has any movement....
it shouldnt......


if it doesnt have any movement and all is firm....
its possible the diff housing may be bent.....</span>

[gruntfuttock]

Yep, tht's it. I was wrong. Thanks

[DEFENDERZOOK]

<span style="color:blue">did you jack it up and check it....?</span>

[gruntfuttock]

[quote=DEFENDERZOOK]<span style="color:blue">did you jack it up and check it....?</span>

Nope STILL unpacking boxes :evil: :evil: :evil:

[gruntfuttock]

Hey Zooky, I have just been released by SWMBO and the front wheel is as tight as a drum. NO movement at all https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

What now??????????

[DEFENDERZOOK]

<span style="color:blue">is there a problem with how its driving.....
or tyre wear.....




if not.......then dont....</span>

[JDNSW]

If there is no movement at all on the wheel at either bearings or swivels, it is either a bent wheel (spinning it will reveal this or a bent axle housing or swivel housing. I have never seen either, but I am quite prepared to believe it is possible if you hit something hard enough.

Another possibility is that it is an optical illusion due to the body having a lean relative to the axle. If this is the case it is likely to be a problem with the suspension bushes or springs, unless it is a bent chassis (usually due to terminal rust but very rare in Australia)

[gruntfuttock]

The problem is that it pulls slightly to the left and chops the inside of the tyres away. The wheels have been aligned, and the RHF wheel is sitting at about 0°. I have been told that in toyotas they put shims in between the diff housing and the swival housing to correct this. Is it possible to do this with the fender? The bloke I was talking to did not know.

[DEFENDERZOOK]

<span style="color:blue">take it elsewhere....
get them to go over it again.....

all that is adjustable on the front end is the toe.....
a bent diff will alter the camber.....
so too will rotating the diff on some cars.....but this will also affect caster...

negative camber is good for fast cornering..... https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

chewing out the inside edges can be corrected by adjusting the toe out.....</span>

[gruntfuttock]

The bloke who did the alignment used to do them for the previous LR agent. He also does them for the tojos. He corrected the toe in/out but said that the camber was out and he could not do anything with that as there is no adjustment. He told me that if it continues to chew out the inside of the tyres, to blow the front ones up harder, it will help a little bit, but only very little. It was all done with lasers etc on a PC. none of the old strings.

[DEFENDERZOOK]

<span style="color:blue">i understands what hes saying.....


but he hasnt bothered to find the problem for you.....
is it a bent diff housing.....
bent stub axle......
bent swivel hub.....



something is wrong for it to go out of alignment....
he should be able to find what it is for you......
if its the diff housing....some places have the facility to actually straighten them out....


whatever it is...is only ever so slightly bent that you probably cant see it....
until you know what is at fault you cant repair anything.....


grab yourself a double hex 9/16 ring spanner and go over all the bolts on the
flange between the swivel hub and the diff and make sure they are all FT....</span>

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Hey Zook,, i was told that Disco's actually run slightly toe out, around 2 deg??
is this right?

[one_iota]

To steal Zooks thunder: :wink:

0 to 2 mm toe out for the disco 1:

http://www.aulro.com/albums/album26/Wheel_alignment.jpg

[DEFENDERZOOK]

<span style="color:blue">hey guys......thats fine to have toe out/in....


but he has a camber problem.....
completely different.......
read the note next to the triangle in the picture....

as i said....for the camber to be out something must be wrong/bent.....
just have to find out what......


a good way of getting negative camber is by playing dukes of hazzard....
2-3 tons of car coming down on a diff housing is more than enough force
to bend the ends up.....hence giving negative camber......

someone who has good knowledge of the principles of wheel alignment can
compensate for the tyre wear by adjusting the toe to suit......

a second opinion never hurts.....wheel alignment has too much that can
give an incorrect reading....from a bent or buckled rim...car not sitting level....
wheel aligner could be out of calibration- they are very sensitive....
the arms may not be mounted to the wheels properly giving dud readings....



from what i have read and understood here.....
i would say something has been bent some how....</span>

[gruntfuttock]

Zooky, Checked the ntts as you said, all are FT. I'll wait for a bit and when I get the next service (40,000Kms) I'll tell them about it. BTW I will not be taking it back to the local Ford dealer :wink:

[DEFENDERZOOK]

[quote=gruntfuttock]Zooky, Checked the ntts as you said, all are FT. I'll wait for a bit and when I get the next service (40,000Kms) I'll tell them about it. <span style="color:green">BTW I will not be taking it back to the local Ford dealer </span>




<span style="color:blue">thats gotta be a smart move......
see if there is a good front end specialist in your area......</span>

[rick130]

all solid axle coiler Landy's pull to the left, even when everything is set up properly, as do Patrols.
The fix is either slightly more caster on the near side, or a revised radius arm bush that Super Pro have recently released that positions the near side axle slightly further forward, negating the wander.

The axle housings can bend, I've seen more than one Rangie sporting various degrees of negative camber, and I've a 130CC that sports 1 degree negative both sides. I've never bothered getting it fixed as it drives well, and I just rotate the tyres a lot.

Truck alignment specialists (usually) can cold bend the diff housing to correct the camber.

[one_iota]

Originally posted by rick130
all solid axle coiler Landy's pull to the left, even when everything is set up properly, as do Patrols.


Interesting.... mine does inspite of efforts to the contrary :roll:

[rick130]

the amount of wander to the left depends on the amount of static caster, and the amount of camber on the road. On a relatively flat road (or driving down the centreline) mine tracks dead straight. If I drive down the wrong side of the road it pulls to the right. Our Patrol does the same. A lot of the roads around here also sport a lot of camber, particularly the dirt ones, which makes it worse than when on the highway.

[DEFENDERZOOK]

<span style="color:blue">run more air in the left wheel...... 8O



negative camber is better for cornering harder...... :twisted:
a good wheel alinger should be able to compensate for tyre wear by
setting up the toe adjustment to compensate......


all cars in oz should pull ever so slightly to the left to avoid running into
oncoming traffic in the event of falling asleep at the wheel or heart attack etc....</span>