Drive Hub

[Chris078]

ergh.
looks like I need to eat noodles for a few months since I need new front rotors.
If I'm paying him to pull it all apart I may as well do everything while it's in pieces.
So far looking at Bosch rotors, Timkin bearing kit from Landybitz, Bendix pads. The drive hubs are a bit worn, so I figure I may as well replace them.

I've found some Terra Firma TF5806 which seem to be a direct replacement.

Can anyone confirm if that is correct?
these are 24 spline, is that correct for a GS perentie?


Thanks

[Bearman]

Chris FRC5806 is the part number for the genuine drive flange so I would think TF5806 would be the Terrafirma equivalent.

[Chris078]

Chris FRC5806 is the part number for the genuine drive flange so I would think TF5806 would be the Terrafirma equivalent.

You're correct there Brian, I didn't word that very well.
I just wanted to make sure that it was the correct part (seems to be) and the number of splines was correct.

Does the perentie have 24 splines half shafts front and back?

I've heard that Terrafirma is a good brand, can anyone confirm?
Price is quite reasonable. $25 ea + delivery = $170 to get 4 delivered from england compared to $243 ea for Land rover ones :o:o:o or $12 ea for Bearmach/Allmakes.

[BadCo.]

You're correct there Brian, I didn't word that very well.
I just wanted to make sure that it was the correct part (seems to be) and the number of splines was correct.

Does the perentie have 24 splines half shafts front and back?

I've heard that Terrafirma is a good brand, can anyone confirm?
Price is quite reasonable. $25 ea + delivery = $170 to get 4 delivered from england compared to $243 ea for Land rover ones :o:o:o or $12 ea for Bearmach/Allmakes.

HA! Who did you hear that from?

If there isn't massive wear in the flanges I don't see any point in replacing them. Just keep some OEM spares with you, easy enough to replace.

[Chris078]

HA! Who did you hear that from?

If there isn't massive wear in the flanges I don't see any point in replacing them. Just keep some OEM spares with you, easy enough to replace.

Had a few people over the years tell me TerraFirma is good. You seem to be saying they are not?

There is a fair bit of wear in all 4. I figured if it all has to be pulled apart to change the rotor (what a dumb design :mad:) I may as well get them done at the same time if the cost was not too high)

additional question. Rear brake shoes: is there a leading and trailing shoe or are they both the same?
I got new shoes fitted last week and the pedal feels like a sponge and it pulls up much slower than it used to.
Trying to figure out why. cylinders were replaced (delphi) as well as the springs. The drums are out of spec and have a ridge on them (being replaced today if they show up :censored:) but I still think it should stop better than it does.

[BadCo.]

Had a few people over the years tell me TerraFirma is good. You seem to be saying they are not?


Ok NOT from personal experience, but from what I have read of others they seem to be worth the price. Ie, you get what you pay for.

I was almost going to buy some second hand terrafirma +2" shocks but they only had front ones so I didn't bother. I guess it just comes down to what your budget is.

[Dervish]

additional question. Rear brake shoes: is there a leading and trailing shoe or are they both the same?
I got new shoes fitted last week and the pedal feels like a sponge and it pulls up much slower than it used to.
Trying to figure out why. cylinders were replaced (delphi) as well as the springs. The drums are out of spec and have a ridge on them (being replaced today if they show up :censored:) but I still think it should stop better than it does.

If you pump the pedal a second time when braking does the pedal go hard and braking performance improve? If yes, have you tried adjusting the shoes? If they've mixed up leading and trailing shoes (which there are) you won't be able to adjust them properly.

[Chris078]

If you pump the pedal a second time when braking does the pedal go hard and braking performance improve? If yes, have you tried adjusting the shoes? If they've mixed up leading and trailing shoes (which there are) you won't be able to adjust them properly.


Pumping the pedal doesn't do anything, just stays soft.
I have a vague idea of how to adjust the shoes, but not enough to be confident in doing it on my own.

How can you tell the difference between the shoes?
Very experienced Land Rover mechanic did the job, but everyone can make a mistake.
Drums arrived today (too late to be fitted :censored: it ) and I need to get something cut off my back tomorrow so no driving me for me until the stitches come out in 2 weeks.
Guess I'll wait till then, get the drums changes and see if that fixes it.

[Chris078]

Ok NOT from personal experience, but from what I have read of others they seem to be worth the price. Ie, you get what you pay for.

I was almost going to buy some second hand terrafirma +2" shocks but they only had front ones so I didn't bother. I guess it just comes down to what your budget is.


I was hoping to find something local in the $50-100 range.

Just heard back from MR Automotive. They have the Hi Tuff flanges (which @ 140 ea which is a lot but apparently they are the best.

I have a few weeks to ponder now, but if anyone finds something mid-range that would be great!

Also that part number FRC5806 - is that for the Heavy Duty one as fitted to the Perentie, or do I have to be really careful looking at the photo to make sure it's the correct 'deep' type flange?

[Chris078]

Ok NOT from personal experience, but from what I have read of others they seem to be worth the price. Ie, you get what you pay for.

I was almost going to buy some second hand terrafirma +2" shocks but they only had front ones so I didn't bother. I guess it just comes down to what your budget is.


I was hoping to find something local in the $50-100 range.

Just heard back from MR Automotive. They have the Hi Tuff flanges (formally maxi-drive)
@ 140 ea which is a lot but apparently they are the best.

I have a few weeks to ponder now, but if anyone finds something mid-range that would be great!

Also that part number FRC5806 - is that for the Heavy Duty one as fitted to the Perentie, or do I have to be really careful looking at the photo to make sure it's the correct 'deep' type flange?

[Dervish]

Pumping the pedal doesn't do anything, just stays soft.


In that case it's unlikely to be a leading/trailing shoe issue; sounds hydraulic - something leaking or not bled properly. Could be other things too. When it goes back for the drums tell them the pedal is soft and they'll fix it.



How can you tell the difference between the shoes?


The pad material is offset differently as usual for leading/trailing shoes and also the adjuster pins - the bits on which the adjuster snail gears run - are in slightly different positions.

When I went looking for pictures I found this helpful site. (http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/landRoverFAQ/FAQ_rearbrakes.htm) It refers to 109" Land Rovers but the Perentie/110 rear brakes are the same.

[Chris078]

In that case it's unlikely to be a leading/trailing shoe issue; sounds hydraulic - something leaking or not bled properly. Could be other things too. When it goes back for the drums tell them the pedal is soft and they'll fix it.



The pad material is offset differently as usual for leading/trailing shoes and also the adjuster pins - the bits on which the adjuster snail gears run - are in slightly different positions.

When I went looking for pictures I found this helpful site. (http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/landRoverFAQ/FAQ_rearbrakes.htm) It refers to 109" Land Rovers but the Perentie/110 rear brakes are the same.


That is a most useful page. I might take it apart in a couple of weeks when my back has healed and I'll have a look.

Interestingly, my Perentie had an incorrect top spring fitted. had the coil in the centre underneath the cylinder. luckily I had ordered new springs so was able to replace it with the correct spring. No idea where the odd spring came from - it fitted correctly, just scraped on the underside of the cylinder.
One day I will get the brakes sorted on this car. I've spent thousands replacing pretty much every component and frustratingly it is still not right.
oh well, what's another 2k after all.
Home Brand 2 minutes noodles for Christmas for me! :no2:

[UncleHo]

From memory the rear brakes are the same as all landies before them,the rear shoes are both sided,and have a front and rear shoe, remove the drum,and check if the shoe pins are aligned with the adjustment cams/snails if not take the vehicle to a mechanic or workshop with Landrover experience before you have an accident,particularly at this time of year.

cheers

Have a happy and safe Xmas.

[Chris078]

From memory the rear brakes are the same as all landies before them,the rear shoes are both sided,and have a front and rear shoe, remove the drum,and check if the shoe pins are aligned with the adjustment cams/snails if not take the vehicle to a mechanic or workshop with Landrover experience before you have an accident,particularly at this time of year.

cheers

Have a happy and safe Xmas.


Won't be being driven until after New year now. Just got a giant thing chopped out of my back and now have 20 stitches in its place.
Very experienced Land rover mechanic did the job. As I said, everyone can make a mistake once in a while. Either I'll pull them off and have a look, or I'll double check when I take it in to get the drums replaced.

[UncleHo]

If your drums are suspect then it would be worth checking them for size,11inch plus a max of 1/8 inch for standard shoes (28cm+4mm) from memory,before you need to go to oversize shoes,if they were used for heavy braking (got hot)and the foot kept on the pedal they would become oval,which could be detected by a pulsating pedal,hope that is of help to you.


cheers

[Chris078]

If your drums are suspect then it would be worth checking them for size,11inch plus a max of 1/8 inch for standard shoes (28cm+4mm) from memory,before you need to go to oversize shoes,if they were used for heavy braking (got hot)and the foot kept on the pedal they would become oval,which could be detected by a pulsating pedal,hope that is of help to you.


cheers

The drums are out of spec. Sent them off to get machined when the new pads were fitted and they sent them back saying they were 50 thou over and therefore they won't machine them.

They aren't ovalled (no pulsating when braking) but they do have a descernable ridge worn in them.

I have new drums here that I'm going to put on (or have fitted I have not decided If I'm brave enough to do anything involving the brakes yet) when I'm allowed to drive again.