Defender puma filter kits - all the same, or not worth the gamble?

[Toxic_Avenger]

Going to do the first (home) service / oil change after christmas. Looking to source the parts for the "A service".
Basically change engine oil, filter, and sump plug, check the air filter, drive belts, look for any obvious leaks, etc. Nothing too crazy. Nothing I can't do in the driveway without shelling out 700 at a mechanic or dealer.

Wondering where people source their parts? I notice there is a wide spectrum of parts ranging from OEM Land rover branded gear (most expensive), to OE equivalent replacements by the brands we know and love (Mann+Hummel, Fuel manager, etc), to the cheap(er) end of the spectrum like bearmach and even possibly filters off the shelf at the likes of autobarn etc.

For a basic oil change at a 10,000km service interval, is there any advice on what is most suitable?
Any other tips for young players- I'm working off a 7L oil volume for a oil change with filter. Not sure if any partuicular tools are needed above and beyond 'normal' tools for this kind of job? Is there any particular start-up procedures or ways to clear the 'oil service' light on the dash at startup?
On the last point, It's a 2.2 tdci, and I have a nanocom if that helps.

[ozy013]

Hey, Mitch. I've been servicing mine since I bought it, (2nd Hand), 3 years ago.

Generally I use the OE equivalent, and you can't go far wrong with Roverlord Off Road Spares, good quality filters, very quick postage and great customer service from Mario and Heather Land Rover DEFENDER PUMA 2007 to DA444246 2.2 & 2.4 - O.E QUALITY FILTER KIT | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Land-Rover-DEFENDER-PUMA-2007-DA444246-2-2-2-4-O-E-QUALITY-FILTER-KIT-/252674418016?hash=item3ad491a560).

Landybitz is also pretty good.
If you want to go OEM branded, then Ritters here in Melbourne, they do overnight postage, prices are very reasonable and they know they're stuff.

The most important is good quality oil, but after reading your other thread your all over that.

Tools are all standard, you will need a T50 torx head, if down the road you decide to do the gearbox. But having said that, we changed the oil in a friends 2.2 last year, and his was an allen key fitting, can't remeber what size.

Just make sure your sump plug doesn't arrive in that dreaded blue packaging. The quality is very poor, even by their standards.

For the money you save by doing it yourself, I would do the air and fuel filter every 10,000k and change the diff oils. Also check the grease levels in your swivels, it often gets forgotten about.

[alien]

I use http://www.aulro.com/afvb/vendors-offering-aulro-discounts/232636-discounts-all-british-car-components-call-us-we-get.html for all my maintainance/service items.
BCC just get on with business and don't need to blow their own trumpet as they have a trusting repeat customer base.
They will happily talk on the phone to you if have any concerns on branding or quality of the parts.
Don't forget to mention your from AULRO, the customer service is excellent.

When undoing the plastic oil filter cover the prefrance is a hex socket.
If it's been over tightned on the last service the cover can strip on the hex if useing a 12 point socket.
It's a 27mm, same as your wheel brace.
Don't forget to grease the universal joints and have a good look for things that have come loose or are rubbing.
Also check the little hole under the gearbox-> transfer box housing for red dust, it's a tell tale the adaptor shaft is fretting.

There is a procedure to clear the oil service light.
From memory it's hold the brake pedal down and turn the key on and after a while it starts/stops flashing.
It's been a while since I've done it so others may remember better than me.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Hola Ian!
Thanks for the suggestions. I was leaning towards OE equivalent products, for cost, quality and availability reasons. I daresay the OEM gear is manufactured and rebranded from manufacturers of this tier in any case. As good as LR is, they wouldn't vertically integrate up their supply chain to that extent.

Good to know the tooling is not crazy, nothing I don't have already, thankfully. Cheers for the top tips on other items to keep an eye out for. I was silently wondering if there is anything else that needs to be looked over / serviced, as the LR A and B service schedule is not something that I'd think would be good beyond the first hundred thou kays. Coolant and gearbox oil is supposedly good for 200,000km :o. I think I'd bring those forward.

So I'm currently at 4 years, 40,000km. 30,000km was a LR dealer 'B' Service.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/385.jpg

[Toxic_Avenger]

Cheers Kyle, I raise my coffee cup to you (at this early hour on a Sunday),

I'll need to check the 6-point deep socket set for a 27mm... but I think it only goes up to 24mm. Failing that I guess the wheel brace will work. I do need to round out the tool kit for these larger size sockets and tools, as I've always owned / serviced japanese imports where the biggest fastener on them by far was a 36mm on the rear axles of a Nissan R230 LSD.

[Toxic_Avenger]

From the FSM:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/382.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/383.jpg

No Mention of clearing 'oil service' light in the FSM.

For that, Google delivers, pointing to an AULRO thread here (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/216254-resetting-service-interval-indicator-puma-2-2-a.html#post2325975)

The Low-down to clear the fault (as per above linked thread):

Fully depress brake and accel pedals and hold down simultaneously
Turn on ignition with key (dont start).
Hold for about 15 seconds until oil light flashes.
Turn off ignition release pedals.

[BigBlueOne]

Hey Mitch, when you drain the engine oil be aware that the oil shoots out about a foot and a half from the sump. Plenty of us have had a driveway full of engine oil before because our catchment container was in the wrong spot. I use a couple of $5 painters mats under the 90 when I do it for any spills which always seem to occur. Cheers

[Toxic_Avenger]

Yeah I so would have fallen for that one. Nothing like an oil shower when working on a car. Oil is better than ATF though ;). Had my last ATF shower on the other car just before easter.

Might even suss out a fumoto oil drain valve for the mule. Been running one on the 300zx for many years now, and looking at the defender, it should be in a fairly protected position where it sits on the sump.