Laser LCA Rear Bush Tool for Loan- Perth

[Dagilmo]

Hi All,

I've just completed the rear bushes with the Laser bush tool.

Happy to loan if anyone wants to use it. Just need a bond to cover the cost of the tool.

As far as the job goes, I'd say reasonably easy once you know what you are doing. Second side in half the time as first. I'd be happy to write up some notes if anyone is interested.

Merry Christmas.

[Ferret]

Generous offer. Can it do fronts as well?

[Tombie]

Generous offer. Can it do fronts as well?



I think he means Lower Front control arm rear bushes..
A different jig for each bush [emoji41]

[Dagilmo]

I think he means Lower Front control arm rear bushes..
A different jig for each bush [emoji41]

Correct;)

And just test drove this morning (also did tie rod ends, now that's an easy job!) it's like a new car, very happy.

[Tombie]

Correct;)



And just test drove this morning (also did tie rod ends, now that's an easy job!) it's like a new car, very happy.



Surprisingly different isn't it.

[LRD414]

... I'd be happy to write up some notes if anyone is interested.

I'm interested to read any notes you'd care to write up.

Cheers,
Scott

[Dagilmo]

Surprisingly different isn't it.

Yes, the slow deterioration sneaks up on you so you don't realise how bad it's become......

[Dagilmo]

I'm interested to read any notes you'd care to write up.

Cheers,
Scott

OK, no worries, I'll write some stuff up over the next few days.

[Dagilmo]

OK Here are some notes, this is not intended as a work instruction just notes. Caveat: This is from my experience and I may have may some school boy errors. Also, I encourage corrections or other peoples better knowledge. This is not the last time I'll be doing this job so any advice is appreciated.

If you have a front plate (bash) (mine has an ARB bar and plate) drop this down first. Leave one bolt (loosened) in the rear to make re fitting easy. You only need to drop it to let the front bush part of the arm drop down when the bolt is removed. The transmission cover also needs to come off.

I found you don't need to removed the remove bottom bolt on the shock/spring strut. The instructions say to, so I did on the first side. On the second side, I removed the two lower bush bolts (front and rear) and the arm dropped out and sat perfectly (no need for something to 'prop' up the arm) to press bush out and in.

Fitting the clam bracket over the existing bush for removal was difficult. I couldn't do it manually and this caused me quite a delay as I tried to work out what was wrong. I couldn't get the two halves to come close enough to engage the nut onto the bolt to tighten. Ended up having to use an 'F' clamp to bring the two parts together enough to use the bolts.

I did the job in my driveway (despite six months of encouragement, I couldn't get my brother to prioritise fitting a hoist in his camper trailer business workshop) which was OK but I couldn't get the force onto the torque wrench to get the required torque onto the bush bolts/nuts. I borrowed the correct size wrench and was able to get the strut bolt torqued but with the car on the ground I couldn't get the arm bolts done. The problem is you need to have the car 'down' on it's wheels when tightening so you don't pre load the bushes but this doesn't leave any room to use the torque wrench affectively. Car in getting alignment (literally as I type) so not a problem but just need to be aware.

The pressing in and out is easy. Tool works well. However not sure how important alignment/position of the new bush is. I put it back in as close as I could by eye. Instructions say to make bush but at the time I couldn't see how this would work as you are fitting a new bush. It's only just occurred to me (as I type this and feel somewhat foolish) that you should transfer mark from old to new bush.....Duurrrrr!!! Can anyone comment on the importance of the bush position accuracy ?

I used a trolley jack to get it all back together. Be extremely careful as the arm does slip off the jack as you try to get it all aligned. As they say don't put your fingers where you would't put your old fella.

All up the job took about 5 hours (way too long really- too many trips out to the back shed getting different tools- mental note: must get tool box trolley). Having said that, side one about: 3.5 and side two: 1.5. Would be confident to get all of it done in under three hours next time.

All bolts came out easily, thank you whomever did them last and put copper grease on them.

Question: Do you need to replace the bolts if they come out OK?

I bought all the stuff from Island 4X4, including the removal tool. This is listed as a Brit Part tool and is about $150.00 cheaper than getting it from other options. I ordered it (despite my Brit Part quality concerns) figuring it's probably just a laser tool re-badged. As it turns out, it's actually the laser tool in the laser tool packaging.

Hope this is of some use/interest.

[PerthDisco]

Thanks Daglimo. I'd be keen on a Perth community approach if a few wanted to have a crack together to help each other. Accumulating the correct tools is key I think and suspect the speed would increase on multiple cars.