4.6 into '81 two door

[yumastepside]

I have been offered a '95, maybe '96, 4.6 Range Rover, a wreck but complete less wheels.
My questions...what can I put into my '81 ?...I would like to use the motor ( if I can fit a 5 speed manual to it, I have an LT230 transfer in the shed )
...the seats, and can the diffs and swaybars be swapped also ?
Old mate wants $800 for the lot and before you start, my '81 already had the big wheels,rear seat removed,lift kit , the whole box and dice , when I bought it so I'm not destroying an original unit:angel:

Roger

[bee utey]

The only part of the P38 you will be able to bolt in your '81 is the assembled engine block and heads. You need to fit your manifolds, cam, front cover, sump etc. Everything else is entirely different.

[Homestar]

If the 4.6 is a known good engine (hasn't been hot) then it would be a good power upgrade for the Rangie. As Bee Utey said, you'd need to bolt on a lot of stuff from your old engine but it is all doable.

[DoubleChevron]

Can you isolate the injection computer and move the entire thing over ( you would need a fuel tank from an injected car). Surely you can just bolt the whole engine to the existing gearbox.... and work out the electrical side (I'd love to megasquirt & megajolt something ...).

seeya,
Shane L.

[yumastepside]

.......what about the diffs.....are they a better set up ?....is it worth the mucking about ?...will the 4.6 bolt to the existing integral gearbox/transfer ?

Roger

[bee utey]

When I said only the basic engine I meant only the basic engine. Diffs are on the opposite sides to the RRC, suspension, bolt patterns etc are all totally different. Oh and the starter motor is the same. That's it. As for stuffing around fitting up all the P38 fuel injection, that's a way to waste thousands. There are easy upgrades and there are totally nutz upgrades guaranteed to drive you bonkers with electronic security work arounds. Far better to just drive and fix the P38.

[Homestar]

Sounds like you're running the LT95 4 speed box? It should bolt straight up - the bolt pattern on the 3.5 and the 4.6 are the same I believe. Maybe the spiggot bearing will need to be done?

Not sure about the diffs - they certainly aren't a bolt in job, but no idea what is actually involved - they are very different to the earlier Rover diffs.

[DoubleChevron]

When I said only the basic engine I meant only the basic engine. Diffs are on the opposite sides to the RRC, suspension, bolt patterns etc are all totally different. Oh and the starter motor is the same. That's it. As for stuffing around fitting up all the P38 fuel injection, that's a way to waste thousands. There are easy upgrades and there are totally nutz upgrades guaranteed to drive you bonkers with electronic security work arounds. Far better to just drive and fix the P38.

Surley putting megsquirt on a land rover V8 has been done thousands of times.... grab some transformer coils build the kits ... download the maps others have already created on dynos (should be near enough) and have fun :confused: You could run it on LPG too ... and do away with the injection.

I'm guesisng your swapping the cam etc...to gain a dizzie drive. I'd treat it as a project and fit a trigger wheel and transformer coil/megajolt. I'm betting there is step by step instructions to do this on a rover v8 out there if you look :banana: You could run oxy sensors etc quite easily that way too and get some really nice fuel maps running.

A much bigger project than just sticking another engine in there .... But I reckon it would be fun for a project car.

seeya,
Shane L.

[bee utey]

Surley putting megsquirt on a land rover V8 has been done thousands of times.... grab some transformer coils build the kits ... download the maps others have already created on dynos (should be near enough) and have fun :confused: You could run it on LPG too ... and do away with the injection.

I'm guesisng your swapping the cam etc...to gain a dizzie drive. I'd treat it as a project and fit a trigger wheel and transformer coil/megajolt. I'm betting there is step by step instructions to do this on a rover v8 out there if you look :banana: You could run oxy sensors etc quite easily that way too and get some really nice fuel maps running.

A much bigger project than just sticking another engine in there .... But I reckon it would be fun for a project car.

seeya,
Shane L.

No harm in your ideas, wasting thousands and thousands on an old 2 door, if you have them to waste. :p Not withstanding anything else, there's a near 100% chance a wrecked non driveable P38 has a cracked block and slipped liners so you're up for say $6K before you can even bolt the block in. I can think of more practical ventures for $10K myself, like a 4BD1T for example. :)

[101RRS]

Surley putting megsquirt on a land rover V8 has been done thousands of times....

You looking at least $2K all up with everything.

Garry

[DoubleChevron]

You looking at least $2K all up with everything.

Garry

Is it really that expensive to build the megasquirt kits. I was figuring the kits, wiring, commodore coils ..... maybe $1000 and a lot of time and tinkering. We do this for the fun after all :)

I know I just have irrational high hopes for a project...

Megasquirt 2 Microsquirt V3 ECU and loom | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Megasquirt-2-Microsquirt-V3-ECU-and-loom-/322243350665?hash=item4b07335089:m:mg_FFf4iP9o3E2U AypDaFVg)

Full kits .... You'd need fuel system for an EFI range rover (tank and lines). Trigger wheel ( $50 bucks ? ). Find an old commodore or falcon and raid at the wreckers for the coils, etc.....

I'd tell the boss women it's $1000 and take it from there :wasntme: The later transformer coils and lack of a dizzie is going to be better for offroading as they don't get drowned as easily ... and you have 4 coils ( so if one dies ... you can always limp home knocking away on 6).

seeya,
Shane L.

[101RRS]

Is it really that expensive to build the megasquirt kits.

With everything else you need - yep and that is building it yourself and getting the bits from the two major suppliers.

Like everything, you can always pick up stuff used or not complete on Ebay a lot cheaper



I was figuring the kits, wiring, commodore coils ..... maybe $1000 and a lot of time and tinkering.

A base kit will cost 800 pounds and then you need test modules, software, fuel pump, regulator, trigger wheel, sensors, O2 sensors, replacement MAF different thermostat, - it goes on and on and on.

MS3 and add ons will cost more.

In the context of what the OP is proposing it is just not cost effective - if you want injection just get an old 3.9 and take of the 4CUIX injection and ECU off it and put it on your 4.6 - switched power and off you go - maybe get a remapped 4CUIX ECU to put a bit more fuel into the 4.6 - sure, not quite as powerful but you wont notice the difference and a lot cheaper.

Garry

[101RRS]

double post

[DoubleChevron]

With everything else you need - yep and that is building it yourself and getting the bits from the two major suppliers.

Like everything, you can always pick up stuff used or not complete on Ebay a lot cheaper




A base kit will cost 800 pounds and then you need test modules, software, fuel pump, regulator, trigger wheel, sensors, O2 sensors, replacement MAF different thermostat, - it goes on and on and on.

MS3 and add ons will cost more.

In the context of what the OP is proposing it is just not cost effective - if you want injection just get an old 3.9 and take of the 4CUIX injection and ECU off it and put it on your 4.6 - switched power and off you go - maybe get a remapped 4CUIX ECU to put a bit more fuel into the 4.6 - sure, not quite as powerful but you wont notice the difference and a lot cheaper.

Garry

Interesting... Why aren't you using everything that is there. Why not use the temp sensors and MAF that is already on the P38 engine :confused: The fuel system will have to come from another injected rangie. Why a different thermostat. The engine needs to run at it's designed temperature. Doesn't the software cater for most types of MAFs and sensors.

I'd leave everything "P38" except obviously the trigger wheel. If it's not a bastard odd tooth count (like the Citroen CX ) why wouldn't you use the factory ring gear and TDC sensor rather than a trigger wheel.

The software is free isnt' it ... That's the whole idea of megasquirt ( I'm a programmer by trade that works in linux). There would certainly be a "bog standard" 4.6 megasquirt map out there somewhere you can use!

seeya
shane L.

[101RRS]

Ok - a myriad of questions that I am not going to go through on this thread - all I will say is that it is not just a simple matter of bunging on a basic MS ECU.

You need to learn a lot more about MS and a good start is to visit Megasquirt Support Forum (MSEXTRA) • Index page (http://www.msextra.com/forums/index.php'sid=82b2aae84f88d6da308331921436c69a)

and
https://www.diyautotune.com/shop/

and
ExtraEFI HOME (http://www.extraefi.co.uk/)

and
Megasquirt for V8 engines - What is Megasquirt (http://www.megasquirt-v8.co.uk/ms_what_is_ms.php?full=1)

Cheers

Garry

[DoubleChevron]

Ok - a myriad of questions that I am not going to go through on this thread - all I will say is that it is not just a simple matter of bunging on a basic MS ECU.

You need to learn a lot more about MS and a good start is to visit Megasquirt Support Forum (MSEXTRA) • Index page (http://www.msextra.com/forums/index.php'sid=82b2aae84f88d6da308331921436c69a)

and
https://www.diyautotune.com/shop/

and
ExtraEFI HOME (http://www.extraefi.co.uk/)

and
Megasquirt for V8 engines - What is Megasquirt (http://www.megasquirt-v8.co.uk/ms_what_is_ms.php?full=1)

Cheers

Garry

Thanks!

I'll have a look. I"m not trying to argue at all. I'm just genuinely interested in how this is to done!

seeya,
Shane L.

[yumastepside]

........OK, maybe I should have come back to these post a bit sooner, for starters, I'm not really interested in a fuel injected motor, if I can fit my existing manifolds and CARB and gearbox/transfer to what I am hoping is a good 4.6 block....happy camper :D
Maybe I should forget the diffs and go with early Disco ones, supposedly they fit pretty easily ( comments welcome )
The seats I can play with ;) ......anything I've missed ??

Roger

[Homestar]

Yep, you can make the 4.6 a straight carby motor by doing what Bee Utey said - you'd never kniw the difference by looking at it, but you would notice it when driving. :)

You'd need to get the carbies retuned for the larger engine, but apart from that some gaskets and time.

Disco Diffs are a bit better as they have 24 spline axles, but you could save the drama of replacing the entire units by getting a 24 spline centre - a locker or similar, then sticking decent axles in it.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

There are some really nice V8 inlet manifolds for carbs:cool:

[yumastepside]

Yes Pedro, at the moment I have a bloke who's willing to swap an aftermarket carb and manifold for a rear tyre/jerrycan holder that I can build.....one of the main things for the Disco diffs is that they have sway bars, the Rangie doesn't.

Roger

[Homestar]

Just make sure it's not a Holley if you ever plan to go off road - they starve for fuel on even the slightest inclines. The original carbs can be tuned to make the 4.6 run well.

[yumastepside]

Thanks, I knew about the Holley's, but what would be the best single carb to use ? :confused:

Roger

[Homestar]

Not really sure, I'd stick to the twin side drafts myself. I'm sure someone will be able to assist there though - there's bound to be something.

Not sure if anyone is still mucking around with the Quadrajet? They used to be readily tunable to different engine sizes and power outputs.

Edelbrock do some, and their design is different to the Holley and the Holley clones so it may be ok as far as fuel starvation goes, but I'm not talking from any experience at all.

EDIT - just done some googling, the Quadrajet is still alive and well it would seem and is readily available in Australia both second hand and reconditioned - although some of the prices of the recoed ones will make your eyes water...

[DoubleChevron]

how much is throttle body injection these days ...

These guys fit it and get it working on the side of the road in the snow ... and she fires up and runs first try

https://youtu.be/3EkWEjTBZ9Y?list=PL12C0C916CECEA3BC

That way you avoid the offroad issues of carbies and will have a heap more power than using the old twin side drafts.

seeya
Shane L.

[yumastepside]

.....I would really like to get away from the old sidedrafts, mine are about had it.This vehicle originally came from Mt Isa, so its had a bit of a hard life, but surprisingly low mileage, and now its down here in Tassie.Bit of a climate change !!:o

Roger

[Homestar]

how much is throttle body injection these days ...

These guys fit it and get it working on the side of the road in the snow ... and she fires up and runs first try

https://youtu.be/3EkWEjTBZ9Y?list=PL12C0C916CECEA3BC

That way you avoid the offroad issues of carbies and will have a heap more power than using the old twin side drafts.

seeya
Shane L.

I like that a lot! :)

Wonder what sort of price it runs to.... BRB...

EDIT - around $2.5K US. A little steep, but a nice setup and about the simplest way to install EFI I would think. On something that's worth a few dollars to start with, ok I would think but on an old Landy...

[101RRS]

Some Americans have suggested the Holly injection system that replaces a holly carb but is very very expensive - but is install and forget as it learns runs about $2500 - $3000 depending on what you actually do.

There are new offroad inlet manifolds and carbs RPI in the UK suggest Edelbrock Weber 500 CFM conversion - expensive if I buy from the UK but cheaper locally - not sure about offroad use but is probably OK.

Americans also suggested the Holly Truck Avenger 670cfm carb but it is too big for a 4.6 but their 470CFM would suit better - locally sellers advise that it is an offroad carb and not suitable for onroad use or towing due to high fuel use.

Two 175CD carbs are on the limit for a 4.6 (my 5.3l Jag has 4) and revised jetting is not ideal but they do work and are well known and simple and reliable - so if you just want an engine to run OK with still high fuel consumption they are an alternative.

Oh back to injection - I mentioned a 4CUIX hotwire system of a 3.9 cheap and simple but different fuel pump needed - speaking to an acquaintance last night - he has a 5.1 RV8 in his 101 - get 16 l/100km now 101 owners will be really envious - he runs the 4CUIX on the 5.1 and still running the restrictive 101 manifolds so the 4CUIX on the 4.6 would be a cheap alternative for an early RR.



Garry

[discojools]

.....I would really like to get away from the old sidedrafts, mine are about had it.This vehicle originally came from Mt Isa, so its had a bit of a hard life, but surprisingly low mileage, and now its down here in Tassie.Bit of a climate change !!:o

Roger

There's a bloke just near Essendon airport who reconditioned my Strombergs and did lovely job. His name is Tony at B & M Fuel Systems. I'm sure he would be able to rejet yours to run a 4.6. As long as you don't want to rev the engine too much.. Can't get enough air through too run the engine at high revs or so I was told. Would be quite torquey though.
You have to be careful of the CD175s with auto choke..apparently a PIA.
By the way I had a Quadrajet on a small block Chevy in a Rangy a long time ago . Didn't like it much because of the sudden jump in power when the extra jets opened up.

[Meccles]

I've got the Edelbrock Performer 500 which is actually based on a Weber design. Yes I know its not yet running but all feedback from states (Mark at D&D fabrications -http://aluminumv8.com/) are that this carby is good off road.
Price from him jetted for your use was very reasonable I paid $325 US a few years ago. Manifold - again I brought an Edelbrock performer locally for less than price of carby. While not as good as Holley fuel injection not too bad for money spent.

[DoubleChevron]

I think he just needs to buy a hotwire rangy parts car (rusted iwth a blown motor would be fine) and move the injection over to the 4.6 :) If you want a usable car, I'd steer clear of carbies if the wife is ever to drive it.

Gotta admit the CD's on my old '85 Rangie were quite good though ( no real power to speak of though)

seeya,
Shane L.

[Meccles]

Got to agree to disagree with you there. I ran a 350 holley on my RRC for 14 years and never had an issue - even off road. Fitted dams in float chamber plus a couple of other simple mod's, no issue. And SWMBO drove it more than me. Never went out of tune, easy to start and very easy to maintain. However, the 175 CD's fitted originally, now they were a PIA :D

[yumastepside]

....Meccles-interested to know what mods you did

...The rest of you-thanks , but speak english please...I have no idea what you are talking about.....sorry, Holden man here, not up on the Rover lingo :confused:

Roger

[101RRS]

Just google what you dont understand and all will become clear ;)

[Pedro_The_Swift]

go here last thing before bed:p
your dreams start about halfway down,,
Rover V8 inlet manifold photo archive (http://www.mez.co.uk/ms12-new.html)

[Homestar]

Got to agree to disagree with you there. I ran a 350 holley on my RRC for 14 years and never had an issue - even off road. Fitted dams in float chamber plus a couple of other simple mod's, no issue. And SWMBO drove it more than me. Never went out of tune, easy to start and very easy to maintain. However, the 175 CD's fitted originally, now they were a PIA :D

While it's good to know they can be sorted if that's your flavour of carb. I've had 2 Holleys over the years and both were a giant PITA. The 350 I had I swapped for a Webber and the 600 I inherited on a decently worked (for the day, my Veloster would munch it off the line to 200KPH now :D) 308 powered HX Kingswood soon was replaced with a modified Quaddie, which instantly improved throttle response and fuel economy.

Horses for courses I guess, I suppose it's a lot like Holden or Ford, Cummins or CAT, Land Rover or Jeep sort of thing, probably no right answer, just what your happy with and have had the best experiences with. :)

[yumastepside]

OK, If I decide to go with the 3.9 injection set up, what do I need to get ?....hi-pressure fuel pump ( did the same thing when I put a VR V6 into my HZ one tonner ), ECU ?, manifold, ?????????

Roger

[Homestar]

You'll need the fuel tank out of a later model EFI RRC, it's much easier that way. I've converted my 86 RRC from carby to 14CUX EFI, it's not too difficult but there are a few things to look out for.

You'll need to also run a return line back to the tank. You'd be better off finding a D1 or RRC with the whole lot on there that is being wrecked so you can ensure you get all the sensors, manifold, ECU, etc. the ECU and the engine harness wiring can all be stripped from the main loom and then be remade as a standalone system. Apart from the engine loom the only extrenal connections are for the fuel pump (from a relay in the loom), a 12 volt power supply, a switch 12 volt supply from the ignition and a wire from the negative side of the coil into one of the inputs to tell the ECU the engine is rotating.

A bit of fiddling around but not difficult. I got a whole engine and everything else I needed from a D1 that was being parted out.

[bee utey]

Easiest set up: 1986 to 1989 Rangie EFI fuel tank, has exactly the same internal pump as a VN-VR Commodore. Get the two steel fuel lines to the front too. Tank just bolts in, uses the stock fuel level sender connections.

Inlet manifold, electronic distributor, ECU, MAF and harness off a 1991 to 1993 Rangie. The harness is stand alone except where it connects to the vehicle power supply. As Homestar says, you'll need battery and ignition power. The loom has the connection to the coil. Earth for the ECU is on the back of the engine, then run a twin flex wire back to the fuel pump. You can salvage the correct colour wires out of the donor 86-89 RR.

I did a similar conversion using these components to a 85 County 110 with a 3.5 engine. It was really very straightforward and almost doubled the length of the power band compared to the horrible carby setup someone had butchered into it. :)

[Meccles]

This is a very interesting article and an example of what is becoming available today. The Yanks do build some nice stuff.

We Dig Deep Into The Latest EFI Systems on the Market Today (http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/1603-we-dig-deep-into-the-latest-efi-systems-on-market-today/)

[Meccles]

The Fitech Go Street EFI -400hp system looks neat and also the Fitech Go System fuel command center a great idea. Keeps original fuel pump/tank etc. Price not outrageous either - US$395 for fuel command center and $795 for EFI set up. If I have issues with my 500CFM edelbrock that's what I'd look at. If getting LR EFI from say 91-93 it is already 24 years old.

[350RRC]

This is a very interesting article and an example of what is becoming available today. The Yanks do build some nice stuff.

We Dig Deep Into The Latest EFI Systems on the Market Today (http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/1603-we-dig-deep-into-the-latest-efi-systems-on-market-today/)

Wow!

[Meccles]

The Fitech Go Street EFI -400hp system looks neat and also the Fitech Go System fuel command center a great idea. Keeps original fuel pump/tank etc. Price not outrageous either - US$395 for fuel command center and $795 for EFI set up. If I have issues with my 500CFM edelbrock that's what I'd look at. If getting LR EFI from say 91-93 it is already 24 years old.

[Meccles]

The Fitech Go Street EFI -400hp system looks neat and also the Fitech Go System fuel command center a great idea. Keeps original fuel pump/tank etc. Price not outrageous either - US$395 for fuel command center and $795 for EFI set up. If I have issues with my 500CFM edelbrock that's what I'd look at. If getting LR EFI from say 91-93 it is already 24 years old.

Oops double (now triple post):o

[FisherX]

Those EFIs look the biz and would be a great solution, especially with the under bonnet fuel tank. Might even think about replacing the EFI on my Soft Dash with one cause I can't seem to get it to not run so rich.


I don't think I agree that the twin CD175's would be under sized for the 4.6 though. I run a single CD175 on the front of my 2.6L Turbo Sigma. It can let the engine run to 7000rpm quite happly at 12psi boost. I recon twins would be fine for the 4.6 and really how often do we rev these engines past 4000rpm. They are a very reliable carbie when tuned right ( which can take a bit to get your head around how they actually work. It did me )

[Baggy]

Hi All,

I've been down that painful road of trying to refurbish CD175 carbies for my 2 door classic.

If you have the later versions with the CD175 with auto choke (mines an 81) I couldn't find any new or replacement parts to service it here or abroad and was the main issue with mine was running rich ...... eye wateringly rich :(

Trying to find information on the auto choke original set up was near on impossible .... with the original auto choke being plumbed into the cooling system using a heat sensitive spring that operates the choke.

They didn't work well when new and most were converted to manual (there was a kit available once) but thats long disappeared too.

While they are a good carbie for 4WDing .... the availability parts .....knowledgeable people (still alive) to tune them are getting thin on the ground.

The previous owner of my 2Dr classic tried to convert to manual and didn't work out well ........thanks to Meccles (Mike) who sent me his 350 Holley and manifold which I've refurbished and fitted to my 3.5V8.

I've run it once or twice since fitting it but haven't run it often because of a rattly piston....and is awaiting a rebuild but it was excellent :D

Funnily enough .... while surfing YouTube the other night I came across some guys on a site called "Road kill" where they fit one of those new a fuel injection systems an old V8 while on a 1000 mile 4 day road trip.

The system was very simple, they fitted it in a car park .... on the side of the road ....and it started first time .......definitely worth looking into as an alternative to a straight carbie set up.


Cheers

Baggy

[yumastepside]

quite a few bits from a couple of different models.......not as simple as first thought, so now the search begins. In the mean time I'm going this week sometime, to look at the single carb manifold and Weber ( ??? ) a mate has offered me from the 3.5 he replaced with a 3.9 in his '84.
So.....the plan now appears to be.....get the 4.9 block, check it out for heat damage, repair with shouldered sleeves if necessary, collect the appropriate parts from the other vehicles,assemble the new motor in the shed while searching for a 5 speed box to fit between it and the LT230 I alredy have....simple.......have I missed anything ??? :(

Roger

[DoubleChevron]

quite a few bits from a couple of different models.......not as simple as first thought, so now the search begins. In the mean time I'm going this week sometime, to look at the single carb manifold and Weber ( ??? ) a mate has offered me from the 3.5 he replaced with a 3.9 in his '84.
So.....the plan now appears to be.....get the 4.9 block, check it out for heat damage, repair with shouldered sleeves if necessary, collect the appropriate parts from the other vehicles,assemble the new motor in the shed while searching for a 5 speed box to fit between it and the LT230 I alredy have....simple.......have I missed anything ??? :(

Roger

If your going to go to that much effort ..... Why not a SBC or LS series motor :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

seeya
Shane L.

[yumastepside]

......once again, excuse my ignorance, whats an SBC or LS motor ??
The only LS motor I know is an LS1 350....:confused:

Roger

[DoubleChevron]

......once again, excuse my ignorance, whats an SBC or LS motor ??
The only LS motor I know is an LS1 350....:confused:

Roger

small block chev ... 350... Yeah, LS1 is the common one. I don't know much about any of htis stuff... other than I'd be going the alloy LS series engine if I could ... maybe detuning it electronically so I don't blow the **** out of the drivetrain :twisted: :angel:

[yumastepside]

.....sorry, the SBC didn't click as small block........every bugger uses initials for everything, LOL....FYI...:angel:

Roger

[yumastepside]

......sorry it took so long to get back to this, bit busy.....so, my next question would be....is $800 a reasonable price to pay for an unknown motor and maybe a pair of seats ( I think thats about all I may be able to swap over from the '96 ) :confused:

Roger

[Davo]

Hi All,

I've been down that painful road of trying to refurbish CD175 carbies for my 2 door classic.

If you have the later versions with the CD175 with auto choke (mines an 81) I couldn't find any new or replacement parts to service it here or abroad and was the main issue with mine was running rich ...... eye wateringly rich :(

Trying to find information on the auto choke original set up was near on impossible .... with the original auto choke being plumbed into the cooling system using a heat sensitive spring that operates the choke.

They didn't work well when new and most were converted to manual (there was a kit available once) but thats long disappeared too.

While they are a good carbie for 4WDing .... the availability parts .....knowledgeable people (still alive) to tune them are getting thin on the ground.

The previous owner of my 2Dr classic tried to convert to manual and didn't work out well ........thanks to Meccles (Mike) who sent me his 350 Holley and manifold which I've refurbished and fitted to my 3.5V8.

I've run it once or twice since fitting it but haven't run it often because of a rattly piston....and is awaiting a rebuild but it was excellent :D

Funnily enough .... while surfing YouTube the other night I came across some guys on a site called "Road kill" where they fit one of those new a fuel injection systems an old V8 while on a 1000 mile 4 day road trip.

The system was very simple, they fitted it in a car park .... on the side of the road ....and it started first time .......definitely worth looking into as an alternative to a straight carbie set up.


Cheers

Baggy

Goodness me, that's surprising to read. I've found four NOS CD175s on eBay over the years and they've been fine. They are an incredibly simple and easy carbie to work on. Mine are on a 3.5 but they have been used on a 4.6. Someone here put up some information about what had been done to theirs by a specialist from over east. The pistons and needles were modified somehow.

Because of this, I'm planning to use SUs should I manage to get a 4.6 because there is more information out there, and it sounds like they only need a needle change.