Identify my installed air con (1998 300TDI 110)

[RhinoH]

Picked up a 1998 Defender 110 last week, and although the air con isn't working (needs a re-gas) the system doesn't appear to be factory installed (when I compare against the operators, service and parts manual). Also only has a single thermofan installed up front, where the parts manual shows 2.

Does anyone know anything about it?

The defender appears to have been sold in 1998 via Land Rover Frankston, Victoria.

The decals are worn, so an explanation (or if someone has a picture of what it orginally looked like) of how the 2 dials would be wonderful. One must be fan speed, the other how cold.....?

Can these dials be updated to a 2 dial system, something a touch more modern.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/954.jpg (http://s827.photobucket.com/user/ryanhawson1/media/IMG_6125_zpsluogfu8e.jpg.html)

[Tombie]

Aussie fitment.. that's as it was fitted once it landed here in Australia.

One part of the switch is fan speed the second is thermostat...

The 2 switch versions are just those functions on seperate switches...

[RhinoH]

Thanks, so is it an official Land Rover installation? or just a local dealer fit?

[Tombie]

Land Rover Australia fitment upon arrival..

[Scouse]

Made & supplied by the now defunct AMC. Fitted at the various LR finishing centres (like Cartech in Sydney).
The A/C came as a kit but individual centres seemed to fit each one slightly differently. Some parts might be available through LR still.

[mattims]

Looks the same as the one in my 1998 300TDI 110.

Mine was also non working when I got the car. It needed a new condenser and landrover were able to get one, but wanted $1200 for it.

I got a friend of my (auto elec / air con) to have a look and he was able to source the exact same part for $200. He looked over the system and it looks like all the working parts were just standard universal fit parts (nothing landrover specific except brackets to mount it and the internal air ducts).

For explanation of the thermostat outer ring..
mine seems to be when turned to 0 at the warmest (still seems to run compressor occasionally) and runs non stop when turned fully the other way. To be honest I am not completely convinced it is a thermostat, it might just be a time turning the compressor on and off.

[Michael2]

I've got the same AC in my '97 110. Once gassed up, mine worked really well, blowing 4 degrees Celsius at the vent. My passengers always complain about frozen knees. On the the downside, the fan is inadequate, so it fails to move that cold air around fast enough. I wish I knew how to speed the fan up (it has 2 speeds). Still, on a hot day I'm better off with the windows up and the AC on, than driving with a window or vent open.

[Def200tdi]

I've also recently picked up a 94 200tdi with the same aircon. I don't have a condenser fan in front of the condenser, is that normal?

Also the fuse under the passenger seat closest to the engine blows every time I switch on the aircon. Everything still seems to work and get cold, so not sure what the issue is.

Thanks for any info

[RhinoH]

Does anyone have a better picture of the decal, as mine is fairly worn, I assumed it had 3 fan settings.

[Dervish]

Does anyone have a better picture of the decal, as mine is fairly worn, I assumed it had 3 fan settings.

It does. The one in your photo is about as good as I've ever seen. The problem is that the knob covers the blue triangle that signifies that the further the lower knob is rotated clockwise the lower the thermostat temp. It's just a poor design, almost comical really, but Land Rover Australia could get away with that kind of thing back then.


I've also recently picked up a 94 200tdi with the same aircon. I don't have a condenser fan in front of the condenser, is that normal?


No, you should have a condenser fan. I don't know if that is the cause of your blowing fuse, but it's likely.

[Michael2]

Inspired by this thread, I went back to my AC fan speed issue.

I wondered if running the fan at 16V might be better for moving more air, and whether that would lead to premature failure.

I spoke to an auto elec friend, who told me how to measure voltage drop.
Put the multimeter in Volts setting, then place one end on the +ve wire of the (in this case) fan and the other end on the +ve battery terminal. It should read 0 if there's no voltage drop. You can do the same with the negative wire and the negative terminal to measure drop on the negative side. Voltage drop may be caused by long wiring or poor connections.

My fan was running at 8volts with the battery at 12.6V !!!!!

There was a 1V drop across the plug for the fan alone. The -ve side had no drop.

I did some by-pass surgery and ran 6mm wire from the fan side of the plug to a 12V outlet I have beside my cubbybox. Now the fan blows with gusto. I'll fit a switch to it, and it can be my AC Boost switch. I turned the thermostat dial to the right a bit more, and air temp dropped from 4.C to 0.C.

I wish I'd done this 10 years ago.

[RhinoH]

That's great news.

[BKROVEN]

I own a 93 defender 110 , 200Tdi with AC. When I turn it on ,the compressor goes on and off continually. I was told it was the 2 function switch!! But I was thinking it might be a relay? Has anyone had this problem?

[Don 130]

Inspired by this thread, I went back to my AC fan speed issue.

I wondered if running the fan at 16V might be better for moving more air, and whether that would lead to premature failure.

I spoke to an auto elec friend, who told me how to measure voltage drop.
Put the multimeter in Volts setting, then place one end on the +ve wire of the (in this case) fan and the other end on the +ve battery terminal. It should read 0 if there's no voltage drop. You can do the same with the negative wire and the negative terminal to measure drop on the negative side. Voltage drop may be caused by long wiring or poor connections.

My fan was running at 8volts with the battery at 12.6V !!!!!

There was a 1V drop across the plug for the fan alone. The -ve side had no drop.

I did some by-pass surgery and ran 6mm wire from the fan side of the plug to a 12V outlet I have beside my cubbybox. Now the fan blows with gusto. I'll fit a switch to it, and it can be my AC Boost switch. I turned the thermostat dial to the right a bit more, and air temp dropped from 4.C to 0.C.

I wish I'd done this 10 years ago.

An auto electrician who got my '97 system going properly some years back told me not to run it below 6˚ at the vent as it will freeze the condenser up and stop the whole thing from working. to that end I got a cheap little 12V digital thermometer and fitted it near the vent closest to the controls. When my thermostat knob is a t the 3 o'clock mark, it's about 6˚

Don.

[TripleE]

Just purchased a lovely specimen from your continent a couple months ago. 1995 110 300tdi that is rust free! Loving it here in the US! I have the same air con here. Previous owner said it was not working, but I’m not even to the point of troubleshooting yet because I’m trying to figure out how to turn it on! Here is my switch:

166286
I’m missing the “top” dial it seems. My lower dial spins from 12 o’clock, counterclockwise, to 3 o’clock. Is that correct? I also cannot turn the protruding shaft with my fingers, but before I put a bit more force to it, I wanted to check how that shaft/knob should operate?

Thank you!

[Mules]

G'day TripleE,

An aussie 300tdi in the US is surely somewhat of a rare beast!

The lower dial is your temp control and should spin from about 12 - 8 (off the top of my head). The top dial is your switch for the fan settings (3 different levels). A gentle clockwise turn with pliers should be safe.

Need to get mine regassed actually. Don't expect wonders from it though, just makes the engine feel even more asthmatic.

Cheers, Mules

[Mules]

Correction,

Bottom dial should spin clockwise from about 9'o clock to 7 o'clock,

Top dial from about 9 - 12 (if you have one of course)

[Don 130]

Just purchased a lovely specimen from your continent a couple months ago. 1995 110 300tdi that is rust free! Loving it here in the US! I have the same air con here. Previous owner said it was not working, but I’m not even to the point of troubleshooting yet because I’m trying to figure out how to turn it on! Here is my switch:

166286
I’m missing the “top” dial it seems. My lower dial spins from 12 o’clock, counterclockwise, to 3 o’clock. Is that correct? I also cannot turn the protruding shaft with my fingers, but before I put a bit more force to it, I wanted to check how that shaft/knob should operate?

Thank you!

If you measure the diameter of the shank and whatever landing is on it, then search radio parts stores or Ebay, you might find one that fits. I don't think there are any spare parts for those switches available here.
With a trim, something like this (https://www.jaycar.com.au/22mm-black-anodised-knob/p/HK7010)might do the job. you should be able to find something over there.
Don.

Edit: This (https://au.element14.com/davies-molding/1500bq/pointer-control-knob-phenolic/dp/2991021)one might be better

[TripleE]

G'day TripleE,

An aussie 300tdi in the US is surely somewhat of a rare beast!

The lower dial is your temp control and should spin from about 12 - 8 (off the top of my head). The top dial is your switch for the fan settings (3 different levels). A gentle clockwise turn with pliers should be safe.

Need to get mine regassed actually. Don't expect wonders from it though, just makes the engine feel even more asthmatic.

Cheers, Mules



Correction,

Bottom dial should spin clockwise from about 9'o clock to 7 o'clock,

Top dial from about 9 - 12 (if you have one of course)

Perfect information, mate! 😉 That’s what I was looking for! I can turn it with my fingers and feel the 4 (0,1,2,3) positions. Fan blows! I’m definitely not expecting wonders, but I’m sure glad it’s there; hope it can knock the edge off the heat when the time comes. Probably get it gassed up next. Thank you!

My bottoms dial does spin approximately 3/4 of the circle (actually just a touch farther like you describe from 9 to 7). Even though mine is in a different position, it sounds like it travels the distance you describe. Perhaps the dial just needs to be indexed correctly to match yours. 9 is the warmest setting and turning clockwise to 7 is coldest?


If you measure the diameter of the shank and whatever landing is on it, then search radio parts stores or Ebay, you might find one that fits. I don't think there are any spare parts for those switches available here.
With a trim, something like this (https://www.jaycar.com.au/22mm-black-anodised-knob/p/HK7010)might do the job. you should be able to find something over there.
Don.

Edit: This (https://au.element14.com/davies-molding/1500bq/pointer-control-knob-phenolic/dp/2991021)one might be better

Very good suggestion, I’ll certainly start the search! If by chance you ever do come across one, please let me know! Thank you!

[gromit]

Just looked at my switch, normally just use it without paying much attention....

Low Km, its led a sheltered life over the past few years but I did notice that the top knob has been damaged at some point.

Thanks to the comments by Michael2 I might investigate the fan wiring at some point in the future.


Colin

[TripleE]

G'day TripleE,


An aussie 300tdi in the US is surely somewhat of a rare beast!

The lower dial is your temp control and should spin from about 12 - 8 (off the top of my head). The top dial is your switch for the fan settings (3 different levels). A gentle clockwise turn with pliers should be safe.

Need to get mine regassed actually. Don't expect wonders from it though, just makes the engine feel even more asthmatic.

Cheers, Mules


Correction,


Bottom dial should spin clockwise from about 9'o clock to 7 o'clock,

Top dial from about 9 - 12 (if you have one of course)

Thanks, mate! ;) I was able to grip with my fingers and turn the shaft. Fan blows! I can feel the 4 positions (0,1,2,3).

Bottom (temp) dial spins about the same degree as yours (270), so I suspect I just need to remove the dial and index it correctly to match 9 to 7.


If you measure the diameter of the shank and whatever landing is on it, then search radio parts stores or Ebay, you might find one that fits. I don't think there are any spare parts for those switches available here.


With a trim, something like this (https://www.jaycar.com.au/22mm-black-anodised-knob/p/HK7010)might do the job. you should be able to find something over there.
Don.

Edit: This (https://au.element14.com/davies-molding/1500bq/pointer-control-knob-phenolic/dp/2991021)one might be better

Excellent advice, should be able to find something! Thanks. If you ever do come across one... ;)

[TOR]

Inspired by this thread, I went back to my AC fan speed issue.

I wondered if running the fan at 16V might be better for moving more air, and whether that would lead to premature failure.

I spoke to an auto elec friend, who told me how to measure voltage drop.
Put the multimeter in Volts setting, then place one end on the +ve wire of the (in this case) fan and the other end on the +ve battery terminal. It should read 0 if there's no voltage drop. You can do the same with the negative wire and the negative terminal to measure drop on the negative side. Voltage drop may be caused by long wiring or poor connections.

My fan was running at 8volts with the battery at 12.6V !!!!!

There was a 1V drop across the plug for the fan alone. The -ve side had no drop.

I did some by-pass surgery and ran 6mm wire from the fan side of the plug to a 12V outlet I have beside my cubbybox. Now the fan blows with gusto. I'll fit a switch to it, and it can be my AC Boost switch. I turned the thermostat dial to the right a bit more, and air temp dropped from 4.C to 0.C.

I wish I'd done this 10 years ago.

This sounds great! Just spent quite a bit of money reinstating the aircon in my 130 with a pretty average result. Is this fan wire you speak of easily accessible?

[86mud]

After 11 years ownership with my 1998 300Tdi 130, earlier this year I finally did something about my aircon.

For most of the time that I owned the 130t, the aircon would work ok for about 40 minutes, then start spitting out ice, then it must have frozen over on the inside and then stopped blowing cold air. So i'd have to turn it off, let it thaw out for 30 minutes then turn it on again.

Then recently it was just constantly cutting in and out.

So the entire under dash unit was pulled out, fans pulled out, clean, rewired and a new remote TX valve was installed, plus a new compressor....and OMG what a different. Finally have decent air con!

There was these strange electrical parts that seemed to be the source of my constant cutting in and out problem.

Anyone have any idea what they are?

[TripleE]

I wanted to revisit this as I have my A/C working now and man, it works great! We are getting record setting heat in the NW of the USA; week of 100°F (38°C) and this thing is blowing hard and cold. It’s actually better than my 2007 Range Rover Sport’s A/C. 😱

The problem I had was the compressor was not getting the 12v signal to turn on. It’s the black wire coming from the thermo unit in the battery compartment. I suspect it could be the sensor that is bad and maybe not allowing it to supply voltage or the thermo unit is bad.

I ended up using a relay to power it (with the trigger being the A/C turn on switch (red wire coming from the thermo unit). I know that is not ideal as it will be running all the time the A/C is on, but so far it has run really well without freezing up as far as I can tell. I’ve run it for 1.5 hours straight so far. I had thoughts of running it on a switch, but haven’t had a need yet.

I do get a lot of condensate dripping from the line outside the cabin from the drain line, so I suspect that is actually a good thing as it’s not freezing up…

[p38arover]

FYI, this is the circuit diagram for the AMC AC

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/general-chat/171412d1623068978-makes-extreme-4x4ing-look-like-sunday-drive-amc-air-con-defender.jpg

[DiscoMick]

Another point is, when I had the aircon in my 2009 Puma Defender regassed and serviced, the workshop said there is a filter in it which also needs replacing.
They said it is often overlooked, which can be why regassed air-conditioning can still be disappointing.
I don't know if that is true of your air-conditioning, but it might be worth checking.
Hope that helps.

[alexbooth99]

Does this system have a dryer. If so where is it located and what does it look like. I can't see it anywhere.
Also where would I purchase a replacement dryer.
Regards Alex

[Gerry Robinson]

Where can I find the original vents that go with the underdash unit or are these also not being made

[incisor]

Where can I find the original vents that go with the underdash unit or are these also not being madeI sell them in the shop as well as stronger outer frames

[Gerry Robinson]

I sell them in the shop as well as stronger outer frames

Okay cheers mate I'll grab a few

[johnd8008]

Looks the same as the one in my 1998 300TDI 110.

Mine was also non working when I got the car. It needed a new condenser and landrover were able to get one, but wanted $1200 for it.

I got a friend of my (auto elec / air con) to have a look and he was able to source the exact same part for $200. He looked over the system and it looks like all the working parts were just standard universal fit parts (nothing landrover specific except brackets to mount it and the internal air ducts).

For explanation of the thermostat outer ring..
mine seems to be when turned to 0 at the warmest (still seems to run compressor occasionally) and runs non stop when turned fully the other way. To be honest I am not completely convinced it is a thermostat, it might just be a time turning the compressor on and off.

Hi Mattims, thank you for this information. I am also in Perth and trying to get my air running - I know your post was a long time ago but is the auto-elec still working as i'd love a copy of the background info he supplied to you (if he or you can remember!!)
John