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mikel
6th January 2017, 07:38 PM
In the process of replacing all tyres on the D4 and am after collective wisdom as too whether to use the Nanocom Evo to lock the suspension in access height or just level it at road height and then open a door or room fuse. I will be using a Bridgestone dealership for the tyres (D697's) and wheel alignment but not sure if they are familiar with LR's air suspension etc.
Alternatively do I just drop it off and let them go for it? (not my preferred option).
Thanks in advance.

rocket rod
6th January 2017, 08:28 PM
Use your Nanocom to put it into "Tight Tolerance Mode" when you get there and let them do the alignment. Having said that, when I got my D4 done with D697s 18" on they had to fiddle around a bit before it stopped pulling to the left. Best to ask the dealer if they have had experience with D4s to give you more confidence in their ability too. Seeing if your local LR independent guy knows a decent place to go to is always a good start.

Tombie
6th January 2017, 09:03 PM
Fuse option doesn't work as the suspension has a 10mm tolerance at each corner so can be a total of 20mm out across the vehicle..

Put it in TTM using the Nanocom.

Tombie
6th January 2017, 09:04 PM
To stop it pulling left add 1/2 a degree castor on left wheel

101RRS
7th January 2017, 12:39 AM
And to clarify - putting the vehicle into Tight Tolerance Mode is not the same as Locking it in Access Height - completely different.

Grentarc
7th January 2017, 06:50 AM
Don't lock in access height for a wheel alignment as the car needs to be at normal ride height when the alignment is done.

mikel
7th January 2017, 07:23 AM
Sounds like it's TTM via Nanocom.
Thanks for the prompt replies they are appreciated.

Cheers

Chops
7th January 2017, 09:15 AM
I'm guessing at this point, if one doesn't have the right tools at this point, the thing to do is take it to the dealer to get hem to do this for you ??

I'll be doing mine soon, and not sure if the tool will be here on time or not yet,,, course it'll help when I've actually ordered it :angel:

Grentarc
7th January 2017, 09:23 AM
I'm guessing at this point, if one doesn't have the right tools at this point, the thing to do is take it to the dealer to get hem to do this for you ??

I'll be doing mine soon, and not sure if the tool will be here on time or not yet,,, course it'll help when I've actually ordered it :angel:
Some wheel alignment places have a TTM tool which will put the vehicle in and out of TTM. If you don't have a tool, may be worth asking around to see if anywhere has one. This also shows that they work with EAS vehicles enough to warrant the purchase.

Tombie
7th January 2017, 11:08 AM
I'm guessing at this point, if one doesn't have the right tools at this point, the thing to do is take it to the dealer to get hem to do this for you ??



I'll be doing mine soon, and not sure if the tool will be here on time or not yet,,, course it'll help when I've actually ordered it :angel:



Chops. If you're not out of alignment (having a problem) I would suggest leaving it alone..

Mine went hard offroad 95,000km before it needed an alignment and that was because I replaced the bushes..

BMKal
7th January 2017, 11:58 AM
Chops. If you're not out of alignment (having a problem) I would suggest leaving it alone..

Mine went hard offroad 95,000km before it needed an alignment and that was because I replaced the bushes..

Same here .................... the only time a wheel alignment has been done on mine in over 120,000 km was when I had the bushes replaced. ;)

101RRS
7th January 2017, 12:24 PM
I am with Tombie and BMKal - unless there is an indication that something is wrong dont get an alignment done - on various cars over the years my problems started after an alignment was done.

My RRS has now done 123,000km and is on its third set of tyres - still has the factory alignment and my current General Grabbers with 50,000km on them are wearing evenly on all four tyres.

Garry

Chops
7th January 2017, 01:11 PM
Thanks guys,, the blokes at the tyre place that will do the job, seem to know about it when I asked a couple of months ago, so I'll check before I actually get the new tyres on.

mikel
10th January 2017, 06:19 AM
I had the D697's installed yesterday and the wheel alignment done with the assistance of the Nanocom Evo. I was having wear issues and hopefully the wheel alignment will keep the D697's nice and even. They look larger than the actual size would indicate.
Can anybody clarify what the TTM setting actually does, is it simply a way of locking the suspension in a level position while the wheel alignment is done?
Thanks

Grentarc
10th January 2017, 06:29 AM
I had the D697's installed yesterday and the wheel alignment done with the assistance of the Nanocom Evo. I was having wear issues and hopefully the wheel alignment will keep the D697's nice and even. They look larger than the actual size would indicate.
Can anybody clarify what the TTM setting actually does, is it simply a way of locking the suspension in a level position while the wheel alignment is done?
Thanks
TTM reduces the individual corner tolerance to +/- 3mm from the standard +/- 10mm

LRD414
10th January 2017, 07:16 AM
I am starting to wonder what could be so hard ....

I've now had three alignments since getting the LCM bushes replaced a couple of months ago, all of them in TTM.
The first was dealer organised same day as bushes (so assume TTM) and subsequent two were set to TTM by me with iiD.
For the 2nd and third ones I specifically asked for additional LH front caster.
The printouts show good values, yet it still stubbornly drifts left and requires the wheel to be slightly turned right to drive in a straight line.
it's not a huge amount but is certainly there. When held at that angle it drives well but is very distracting.

They all use a locking bar to hold steering wheel at the straight ahead position and I have wondered if this is not being done carefully enough.

My other thought is does anything need to be done with the steering wheel angle sensor? eg recalibrate.
No errors or anything so perhaps grasping at straws.

Maybe I just need to keep trying to find someone who is good at it ....

Cheers,
Scott

Tombie
10th January 2017, 07:24 AM
Scott. Add a little bit of Castor on the left front

Grentarc
10th January 2017, 07:26 AM
I am starting to wonder what could be so hard ....

I've now had three alignments since getting the LCM bushes replaced a couple of months ago, all of them in TTM.
The first was dealer organised same day as bushes (so assume TTM) and subsequent two were set to TTM by me with iiD.
For the 2nd and third ones I specifically asked for additional LH front caster.
The printouts show good values, yet it still stubbornly drifts left and requires the wheel to be slightly turned right to drive in a straight line.
it's not a huge amount but is certainly there. When held at that angle it drives well but is very distracting.

They all use a locking bar to hold steering wheel at the straight ahead position and I have wondered if this is not being done carefully enough.

My other thought is does anything need to be done with the steering wheel angle sensor? eg recalibrate.
No errors or anything so perhaps grasping at straws.

Maybe I just need to keep trying to find someone who is good at it ....

Cheers,
Scott
Scott, did you have the llams loop back plug installed before entering TTM? The minor fluctuations in the height signal from Llams are within the 10mm tolerance but can be larger than 3mm - not sure if this would have a major effect on the wheel alignment.

Also, the WSM states the steering angle sensor should be calibrated after a wheel alignment

LRD414
10th January 2017, 12:36 PM
Scott. Add a little bit of Castor on the left front
That's what's puzzling. I asked for 0.5 degree extra for the first one I organised and the most recent one the reports states 0.7 degree extra.

Scott, did you have the llams loop back plug installed before entering TTM? The minor fluctuations in the height signal from Llams are within the 10mm tolerance but can be larger than 3mm - not sure if this would have a major effect on the wheel alignment.

Also, the WSM states the steering angle sensor should be calibrated after a wheel alignment
No I just left Llams alone.
Maybe I'll try a steering wheel angle sensor calibration.
Should be straight forward with the iiD tool.

Scott

101RRS
10th January 2017, 03:01 PM
I've now had three alignments since getting the LCM bushes replaced a couple of months ago, all of them in TTM.


That is why I do not get wheel alignments just because I have changed tyres or played around with something - unless there is something really wrong.

Tyre fitters seem to recommend alignments like dealers recommend injector treatments.

Garry

LRD414
10th January 2017, 07:28 PM
Agreed but it's required after LCA bush changes, otherwise I would not have done it.

Scott

Graeme
19th January 2017, 02:30 PM
Try swapping the front wheels left to right to see if the pull goes the other way. If so then a balance error in one of them and more likely the one that tries to turn inwards to the car.

Russrobe
15th March 2017, 10:29 PM
Can anyone point me in the right direction as to why the wheel alignment on my D4 keeps going out SIGNIFICANTLY for no apparent reason.

First time the castor went out a degree now this time the steering wheel is at 2 o'clock.

Can't find any play in the front end, might give it to Pedders to have a look at all the bushes to be sure though...

Can only assume I need to replace the camber/castor adjusting bolts. Has anyone done this?

Thanks.

Russ

discorevy
15th March 2017, 11:53 PM
Can anyone point me in the right direction as to why the wheel alignment on my D4 keeps going out SIGNIFICANTLY for no apparent reason.

First time the castor went out a degree now this time the steering wheel is at 2 o'clock.

Can't find any play in the front end, might give it to Pedders to have a look at all the bushes to be sure though...

Can only assume I need to replace the camber/castor adjusting bolts. Has anyone done this?

Thanks.

Russ



Have you been changing the factory height settings?

Russrobe
15th March 2017, 11:57 PM
Have you been changing the factory height settings?

Nope, only started using llams again, but heights seem normal.

discorevy
16th March 2017, 12:26 AM
Then it's possible that whoever did the alignment, didn't do it properly, if everything else is in spec then they can just turn both rack rods by an equal amount till the wheel is straight and give it a recheck , take it to someone who knows them .

Geedublya
16th March 2017, 09:27 AM
Did they torque up the camber bolts? Might be worthwhile marking them to see if they move.

BobD
16th March 2017, 11:01 AM
Mine has just done something similar and suddenly started wearing the inside edges of the K02's after wearing flat for 20,000km. The wheel is also to the right now. Until I sort it out I have put the old 19 inch tyres back on. If you find a good wheel alignment place in Perth let me know. I haven't had much joy with any of them myself. The last alignment was when they replaced the LCA's and seemed OK until just recently.

Russrobe
18th March 2017, 12:47 PM
Mine has just done something similar and suddenly started wearing the inside edges of the K02's after wearing flat for 20,000km. The wheel is also to the right now. Until I sort it out I have put the old 19 inch tyres back on. If you find a good wheel alignment place in Perth let me know. I haven't had much joy with any of them myself. The last alignment was when they replaced the LCA's and seemed OK until just recently.


Yep, I'd say you have the same problem I have, Camber/Castor bolts not torqued up tight enough.

My upper control arms may also need new bushes though... Seeing as the lowers were just done.

LandyAndy
18th March 2017, 01:19 PM
How are the hydrobushes in the chassis.
Mine went in for new LCA bushes under warranty,turned out that didn't fix the clunk,new hydrobushes did.
Andrew

Russrobe
18th March 2017, 01:24 PM
How are the hydrobushes in the chassis.
Mine went in for new LCA bushes under warranty,turned out that didn't fix the clunk,new hydrobushes did.
Andrew

I can only feel a clunk upon take off acceleration, Andy. Is that what your's was doing? Nothing when braking. I thought it was just normal initially...

Just had a look, seeing as both entire control arms have been replaced on mine, I should have new Hydro Bushes already, as the entire assembly comes with the new arms..

Russrobe
18th March 2017, 03:13 PM
Just triggered a breakdown of all the acronyms and access height. Must be out of alignment quite a bit.

Russrobe
18th March 2017, 06:10 PM
24mm of toe in on the RF. That would be the culprit...

LRD414
18th March 2017, 09:58 PM
24mm of toe in on the RF. That would be the culprit...
How does that happen? Something must have been loose?

Scott

Russrobe
18th March 2017, 10:03 PM
Some idiot must have left the RF tie rod toe adjustor loose! Ahem wasn't me...

Interesting that it wound it's way out 24mm... Had only done about 300kms all on road.

Tombie
19th March 2017, 11:57 AM
How are the hydrobushes in the chassis.
Mine went in for new LCA bushes under warranty,turned out that didn't fix the clunk,new hydrobushes did.
Andrew

Hydrobushes in the chassis? [emoji41]

The hydrobushes are located in the control arms.
The other common knock is the ARB (Sway) bushes.

Not sure what was done for you the first time if they replaced the arms Andy, but the bush is in the arm [emoji6]

LandyAndy
19th March 2017, 08:04 PM
Is the hydrobush between the chassis/arm??????
Andrew

Tombie
19th March 2017, 09:24 PM
Is the hydrobush between the chassis/arm??????
Andrew

It's mounted in the arm, then a bolt through that assy holds it to the chassis.

If they replaced the arms the bushes would have been changed at the same time..

veebs
18th April 2017, 11:11 AM
At the risk of hijacking this thread, is there a place in Perth anywhere people would suggest as a good option for wheel alignments?

I have an IID tool on it's way, so can presumably put it in the tight tolerance mode mentioned earlier, but would still prefer somewhere that understands a Disco 4 isn't the same car as a Toyota...

eddy
18th April 2017, 12:12 PM
The D3/4 forums in the UK give the Hunter wheel alignment gear a good wrap.The only mob, that I am aware of in WA, that use Hunter are Doc's Tyre and Mechanical Services in Jandakot.Give them a call on 94148715 and let us know how you go.

veebs
18th April 2017, 02:17 PM
The D3/4 forums in the UK give the Hunter wheel alignment gear a good wrap.The only mob, that I am aware of in WA, that use Hunter are Doc's Tyre and Mechanical Services in Jandakot.Give them a call on 94148715 and let us know how you go.

No worries - cheers, i'll have a look.

eddy
2nd May 2017, 06:40 PM
I was up in Jandakot today and attempted to find Doc's tyre for a check on the wheel alignment just to discount issues with some rotational noise.
Front wheel bearings replaced with Timkens,tyres are Hankook Dynapro 15Kkms.Any way according to 4x4 mob[totally Toyo/Nissan bias!] down the road,they have packed up.
Any one know where their Hunter gear went to or any other Hunter aligners in Perth.

eddy
3rd May 2017, 12:25 PM
I have been in touch with the distributors and they informed me that Tyrepower Bibra Lake and Tyrepower West Perth, ask for Mal and Adrian respectively,are equipped with the Hunter alignment equipment.

veebs
3rd May 2017, 02:33 PM
using only the power of google (and therefor no guarantee of accuracy) "Roll Right Tyres" in Balcatta also use hunter - the DSP 600 to be specific.

Crofty
15th July 2017, 11:54 AM
Getting my alignment done as I type. Moving from 20's to 18's with Compo rims.
On the previous rims and tyres my steering wheel was never straight - pointing to the left but she tracked straight.
Got the same issue with the new rims and tyres if not a little worse with the steering wheel. Any help would be appreciated.

Russrobe
15th July 2017, 07:12 PM
I'd say the type of wheel alignment machine in use has no influence on the results whatsoever. Seeing as the machine heads are a bit detrimental, the calibration intervals are probably the single most important thing. Beissbarth VS. Hunter, really, they're both very expensive, precision machines.