Defender Rear Door Repair or Replace?

[Walshy25]

Hi All, So I have a 1996 110 with a rear door that looks to have seen better days based on the weight of the spare and years of use on the under engineered door design. I have just purchased a Mantec spare wheel mount to assist and will be fitting shortly, however in the prep I removed the rear door card to have a closer look at the condition of the door.

Now they say photo's say 1000 words, so I'd be keen to get your views as to whether this is worth repairing or replacing, and I'm on a tight budget?

If I replaced I was thinking one of these

http://www.sp-4x4.com/DEFENDER_REAR_DOOR_GENUINE_ALR6852_p/alr6852wiper.htm
(http://www.sp-4x4.com/DEFENDER_REAR_DOOR_GENUINE_ALR6852_p/alr6852wiper.htm) I'm awaiting a shipping quote from them, but the price looks good, I'd just have to factor in painting of course. It looks like the cleanest option.

Now on the repairing side of things, unfortunately I'm not a welder, and don't have the skills required, but the rust looks like its surface, so could be treated?

The I was thinking I could potentially make up and Aluminium Checker plate door card, and also a Checker Plate panel on the outside to cover the dent in the skin, and provide a little more strength. Thoughts?

Alternatively, does anyone know a good cheap panel beater in Brisbane that would be up for the challenge? Ideas on cost?

Thanks in advance

[DiscoMick]

I've seen worse. I'd take it to a couple of panel beaters if it was mine.
The wheel carrier is a good idea.

Sent from my A1601 using AULRO mobile app

[Xtreme]

I had one that was worse than your's and I repaired it, as described below and continued to carry the spare wheel on it and had no further dramas.

With respect to yours, I'd engage a good welder to reweld where it's cracked, then put extra rivits in where the black panels are on the frame. Panels/gussets with multiple, closely spaced rivets are very strong - just look at any repair or rivited panel on a helicopter, they don't just have a rivit in each corner!

Checker plating the outside, with sufficient rivits into the door frame, would certainly add a lot of strength but is probably unnecessary as you have aleady made moves to remove the weight of the spare from the door.

Much cheaper than the replacement door option and, as all defender rear doors are not the same,.you'll avoid the painting, fitting and alignment problems.

HTH

[jboot51]

I could possibly help you manufacture a checkerplate door card if you wanted to go that way.
I've got the tools, just need to work on my skills.

[manic]

That door looks ok to me, hard to tell from photo . They are not heavy without the spare. If you are fitting a spare wheel carrier that shifts weight to chassis your door will last even if the door frames integrity is slightly compromised. It will be holding a small fraction of its previous load.

Unless there are serious cracks in the frame I would treat rust, paint and run a spray nozzle into the frame to inject some rust preventing wax/oil.

As for skin dent, if you can't see it when spare is on and the spare weight is now on chassis, I'd leave it.

[Walshy25]

That door looks ok to me, hard to tell from photo . They are not heavy without the spare. If you are fitting a spare wheel carrier that shifts weight to chassis your door will last even if the door frames integrity is slightly compromised. It will be holding a small fraction of its previous load.

Unless there are serious cracks in the frame I would treat rust, paint and run a spray nozzle into the frame to inject some rust preventing wax/oil.

As for skin dent, if you can't see it when spare is on and the spare weight is now on chassis, I'd leave it.

Manic - thanks for that - sounds like good advice. I might try this option first, and monitor post fitting of wheel carrier.

[Walshy25]

I could possibly help you manufacture a checkerplate door card if you wanted to go that way.
I've got the tools, just need to work on my skills.

Mate that is a very generous offer, let me see how I go with the easy option mentioned by Manic and let you know if I need to take you up on that offer. Cheers

[strangy]

Id be in the "repair it" camp also.
Once the supports are welded it will be fine.
As far as the dent and paint goes, you can always have a go yourself and learn a new skill.

[gromit]

I had a similar problem with my 300Tdi nearly 20 years ago.
Stripped the rear door, removed glass (the mastic was cracking from all the flexing of the door) and the Father-in-law welded up a total of 13 separate cracks.
Re-fitted the glass and fitted a swing out wheel carrier (Kaymar).
The Kaymar came with a small piece of chequer plate to cover the holes where the original carrier bolted (got some paint matched in a rattle can) and haven't had an issue since.
Always meant to tidy up the door card but just re-fitted it 'temporarily' all those years ago.

You just need to find someone who can weld the cracks up for you......


Colin

[Walshy25]

Ok so after following your sound advice I have repaired the door and it's come up looking good, if I do say so myself.

I cleaned off the waxed rust preventer to reveal minor surface rust, removed it with angle grinder and wire head. Treated the rust, repainted inside of door with rattle can.

Then I decided to cut a piece of marine ply to replace the old door trim, provide some strength and tidy it all up a bit. After some trimming with the jigsaw I wasn't happy with the final fit / flex in the ply, so went to option two checker plate.

I priced up laser cutting with me suppling the plate and it actually worked out cheaper to go with a Britpart pre-cut piece off eBay. Landed in Australia was approx. $140, which I was happy with for the convenience (4 days) to arrive.

So now I have a strong door, wheel relocated to the newly installed Mantec spare wheel carrier and the rattles have gone :)

Check out the attached pics of the final Checker Plate install.

Thanks again for your advice to fix, it was satisfying and not too hard.

[DiscoMick]

Ok so after following your sound advice I have repaired the door and it's come up looking good, if I do say so myself.

I cleaned off the waxed rust preventer to reveal minor surface rust, removed it with angle grinder and wire head. Treated the rust, repainted inside of door with rattle can.

Then I decided to cut a piece of marine ply to replace the old door trim, provide some strength and tidy it all up a bit. After some trimming with the jigsaw I wasn't happy with the final fit / flex in the ply, so went to option two checker plate.

I priced up laser cutting with me suppling the plate and it actually worked out cheaper to go with a Britpart pre-cut piece off eBay. Landed in Australia was approx. $140, which I was happy with for the convenience (4 days) to arrive.

So now I have a strong door, wheel relocated to the newly installed Mantec spare wheel carrier and the rattles have gone :)

Check out the attached pics of the final Checker Plate install.

Thanks again for your advice to fix, it was satisfying and not too hard.
That looks good. I like the Britpart checkerplate too. I could attach a Front Runner drop down table to that.

[Walshy25]

That looks good. I like the Britpart checkerplate too. I could attach a Front Runner drop down table to that.

DiscoMick - that is very likely in the future :)

[DiscoMick]

Yes, I've been eyeing off the one on display in the local Opposite Lock store, but wondering how to attach it to the standard door. The checkerplate would solve that problem.