Fuel Pressure Regulators

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

There are two types of Holley Fuel Pressure regulator.

1) non-return valve = 4.5 - 9 PSI # HO12-803 $75.70
2) Bypass Style 4.5 - 9 psi HO12-803BP $140.00

Apart from not having to plumb in a return line with the bypass style and the bypass being twice the price. What advantages are there over the non-return valve type and the bypass type?

With the bypass system there would not be pressure building up behind the non-return valve.

The engine is a Holden Red motor 202 with a standard Stromberg carburettor in a Series 3 long wheel base tray back ute. So it is not a performance vehicle by any means.

I am just interested in the two types of pressure regulator and why you would pay twice the price as in between $75.70 and $140.00?

Would the bypass be on racing car engines?

Kind Regards
Lionel

[rangieman]

And why do you need a fuel pressure regulator on a standard Holden heap of junk in the first place:confused:

[bee utey]

A carby system should run a pressure limiting pump, in which the pressure is a function of the spring behind the pumping element, so no regulator should be necessary. There is a case to be made though for a return line to the tank if you are running an engine driven pump, and that is to reduce vapour lock in hot weather. A length of 3/16" brake pipe running back to the tank from a 1.6mm outlet tee right near the carby would take care of that and cost a whole lot less. If you are running an electric pump simply placing the pump back near the lowest part of the fuel tank stops vapour lock.

[Lionelgee]

A carby system should run a pressure limiting pump, in which the pressure is a function of the spring behind the pumping element, so no regulator should be necessary. There is a case to be made though for a return line to the tank if you are running an engine driven pump, and that is to reduce vapour lock in hot weather. A length of 3/16" brake pipe running back to the tank from a 1.6mm outlet tee right near the carby would take care of that and cost a whole lot less. If you are running an electric pump simply placing the pump back near the lowest part of the fuel tank stops vapour lock.


Hello Bee utey,

The Land Rover came with a 202 Holden motor fitted at the time the mechanical fuel pump on the side of the motor was very- very tired.

I replaced the mechanical fuel pump with a Facet cylinder pump similar to the Bendix cylinder pumps that were originally fitted to the six cylinder Land Rover motor.

I shifted the pump from the civilian location and put the cylinder pump in the same position the Australian Army moved the fuel pumps to.

Despite my especially asking for the 4-5 psi fuel pump it must have a higher pressure rating because thecarburettor floods. I bought a fully re-manufactured bench tested and tuned carburettor. From what a number of people have told me the Stromberg carburettor likes 4-5 psi so that is what I am attempting to ensure by fitting the pressure regulator into the system.

Hopefully the pressure regulator will settle things down a bit.

Thanks for the information Bee Utey

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

And why do you need a fuel pressure regulator on a standard Holden heap of junk in the first place:confused:

Hello Rangieman,

Now Rangieman ....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nGt9jAkWie4

:p

The use of a pressure regulator goes back to a couple of threads - this being one Accessed January 13, 2017 from, https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-iii/232873-electric-fuel-pump-2.html#post2501222


and this one another Accessed January 13, 2017 from, https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-iii/232873-electric-fuel-pump.html#post2607543 also the same subject is mentioned somewhere else too....

Seek and ye shall find - it was in the same thread anyway .... :angel:

Accessed January 13, 2017 from, https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-iii/232873-electric-fuel-pump.html#post2607366

Kind Regards
Lionel

[bee utey]

Hello Bee utey,

The Land Rover came with a 202 Holden motor fitted at the time the mechanical fuel pump on the side of the motor was very- very tired.

I replaced the mechanical fuel pump with a Facet cylinder pump similar to the Bendix cylinder pumps that were originally fitted to the six cylinder Land Rover motor.

I shifted the pump from the civilian location and put the cylinder pump in the same position the Australian Army moved the fuel pumps to.

Despite my especially asking for the 4-5 psi fuel pump it must have a higher pressure rating because the carburettor floods. I bought a fully re-manufactured bench tested and tuned carburettor. From what a number of people have told me the Stromberg carburettor likes 4-5 psi so that is what I am attempting to ensure by fitting the pressure regulator into the system.

Hopefully the pressure regulator will settle things down a bit.

Thanks for the information Bee Utey

Kind Regards
Lionel

The tee'd off return line will probably be just as effective as a regulator as the pump flow is high enough for peak revs, so a measured bleed off will reduce the maximum pressure at idle to a safe level. I've successfully used this method to run an EFI style submersible pump on a Stromberg WW2 carby and also on a Holley 350, no regulator required.

[rangieman]

Hello Rangieman,

Now Rangieman ....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nGt9jAkWie4

:p

The use of a pressure regulator goes back to a couple of threads - this being one Accessed January 13, 2017 from, https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-iii/232873-electric-fuel-pump-2.html#post2501222


and this one another Accessed January 13, 2017 from, https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-iii/232873-electric-fuel-pump.html#post2607543 also the same subject is mentioned somewhere else too....

Seek and ye shall find - it was in the same thread anyway .... :angel:

Accessed January 13, 2017 from, https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-iii/232873-electric-fuel-pump.html#post2607366

Kind Regards
Lionel

WTF are you on settle pettal.
You asked a question and i simply asked a question in re to this;)
This does not mean i have to search the whole forum for other threads that relate to this question in other posts :twisted:
So please spare me your bleeding heart and your foolish video links:censored:
Was that nice enough for you:p

[Lionelgee]

The tee'd off return line will probably be just as effective as a regulator as the pump flow is high enough for peak revs, so a measured bleed off will reduce the maximum pressure at idle to a safe level. I've successfully used this method to run an EFI style submersible pump on a Stromberg WW2 carby and also on a Holley 350, no regulator required.


Hello Bee Utey,

Thank you for the information Bee Utey. I have already paid for the non return valve fuel pressure regulator today and I bought the electric pump over 12 months ago. I originally went with the Facet cylinder style pump because at the time it was cheaper than a replacement Holden mechanical glass bowl fuel pump. I have doubted the wisdom of that decision a couple of times since then.

The fuel delivery system and the carburettor connectors needed tidying up anyway. I bought the vehicle off a farmer and fencing wire was holding the bottom end of a spring off the carburettor down to the manifold. Another piece of tie wire was holding the springs on original Land Rover accelerator pedal rods that run across the fire wall. The end of the spring was connected to a piece of angle iron.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

WTF are you on settle pettal.

This does not mean i have to search the whole forum for other threads that relate to this question in other posts :twisted:
:p


G'day Chris,

I am a researcher - that is what I do. It is also the main part of my identity - who I am. It is the base line that I automatically operate from.

I was answering your question in the process. I was also citing examples from people far more mechanically competent than myself. That is why I ask questions.

Another of my twists include that I like both Land Rover Series vehicles; and I have also had Holden cars as daily drivers since I first bought an EH Holden back in the mid 1980s. So I bought a Series 3 with a Holden motor in it. There is no helping me I suppose!

I also have a stock standard Series 3 ex Military FFR which I am keeping original.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

When I first bought the car the engine came fitted with a carburettor off a HR to HT 161 ci engine according to the code 23 3019 9-14. It had the lower part of the carburettor off some other motor - not correct for the HR-HK. I bought a re-manufactured 202 carburettor to replace the 161 ci carburettor.

At the time of purchase I should have specifically asked for an early HQ correct 23 3052 or 23 3076. However, I did not know that then.

What I bought is a carburettor for a later HJ, LH & LX. The later carburettor has more anti-pollution fittings that meant upgrading the air cleaner and other PCV parts. At least the carburettor is for a 202 motor or were they 3.3 Litre by then?

It has to be an improvement over a 161 ci carburettor on a 202 ci engine.

So some small steps forward ...

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Busted Syncro]

G'day,

If you go down the path of a regulator you will need a pressure gauge to set it up.

I use a Lisle 20300 vacuum and fuel pressure gauge mainly for vacuum.
I bought mine via ebay US for a good price.

I fitted a permanent pressure gauge in the fuel line with the standard mechanical pump. The pressure is 4 PSI to the Solex carb. Simple!!!

WARNING: FIRE.
If you fit an electric fuel pump you need a safety switch system that stops the pump running if the engine stops. I.E. in a collision!!
Some systems use a switch that operates on engine oil pressure. No oil pressure , pump stops.

With a mechanical fuel pump this problem is solved.

Fuel Filter required.
Depending on the type of electric pump fitted you need to filter the input fuel line to prevent premature wear of the pump.
Ryco make a petrol filter for CAV type filters. This filter uses 18 micron paper.

Chris