URGENT: tailgate problem [Archive] - Australian Land Rover Owners

irondoc

13th January 2017, 10:03 PM

Hi guys, I'm traveling at the moment and went to start packing the car. Everything was going well until the third trip down when the upper tailgate wouldn't open. 2011 2.7 D4.

When I press the button on the upper tailgate, I can hear a slight click and nothing happens. this is different to the big unlocking sound you get normally. When I subsequently try and lock the car, it gives me the double beep and says the tailgate is open. If I start the car, then stop it, I can lock the car again.

note I have an autosafe cargo barrier installed.

I am aware of the tailgate problems with these cars, but I thought the cables broke on the lower tailgate, not the upper one, meaning you can't open the lower tailgate. Or am I confused - do the cables break on the lower tailgate, but this relates to the actuator that opens the upper tailgate?

I think I am stuffed and have to try and get in there from the inside... or call LR assist.

Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers
Lucas

l00kin4

13th January 2017, 10:16 PM

There are a few ideas in this thread: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-4/101292-manual-tailgate-release-d3-7.html#post2520943

As per that thread, the failure is the latch for the upper tailgate which is in the lower tailgate. Hopefully one of the ideas there- engine running or unlock using switch up front will work for you, otherwise you do need access from inside...

Good luck

David

BobD

13th January 2017, 11:35 PM

Mine broke some time ago, thankfully not on a trip. The indie fixed it by somehow opening it from the inside and it now has a loop of wire as an emergency opener if it goes again. Not much good for security but you would have to be looking hard to find it and I don't think many crooks would be looking for a wire tailgate opener. It was my choice to have it fitted but the mechanics suggested it.

irondoc

14th January 2017, 12:05 AM

Thanks guys. I think I have been missing the point that the release mechanism for the upper tailgate is in the lower tailgate - it makes sense now.

Cheers
Lucas

irondoc

14th January 2017, 07:10 PM

Hi guys

somehow my tailgate managed to open. Not sure how, but I have access to the boot, so pulled the cargo barrier out and tied some fishing line to the latch and dangled it out the back so I can give it a tug to help it along.

Not sure what is wrong with it, but I sprayed WD40 down there to try and loosen things up as it seems to be getting stuck on something.

i am a bit confused about how it works, as from the outside it appears to be a 2 stage process -ie pulling on the latch doesn't open it, it needs to be pulled from the inside.

For those guys that have done the mod to add a secondary cable - if you shut the tailgate and pull the secondary wire/string/whatever, does the tailgate open, or do you have to operate the handle also, then pull your secondary mechanism?

i will pull it apart when I get back to Sydney.
Cheers
Lucas

TDV6

14th January 2017, 07:41 PM

I used to pull the fishing line tied to the actuator and at the same time, push on the upper tailgate with a umbrella that I always carried in the luggage area.

Ryall

LandyAndy

14th January 2017, 08:20 PM

LandyAndy

14th January 2017, 08:23 PM

Something else to try if you get stuck again,try opening it with the engine running.If the battery is getting a bit sad it could be a simple voltage drop;););););)ESPECIALY IF ITS HOT!!!!
Andrew

LRD414

14th January 2017, 10:20 PM

The handle in the upper tailgate operates a microswitch that drives an actuator located in the lower tailgate.
The actuator pulls a wire, unlocking the latch in the lower tailgate that releases the upper tailgate.

There are two main failures; the actuator cable breaks near the actuator or the actuator just gets tired and stops operating.
Either way you need to get into the inside of the lower tailgate and operate the wire to release the latch. It's difficult to get inside and the best instructions are on Disco3.

EDIT: Disco3 link:
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic99648.html

It is far easier to operate the latch by pulling the wire with the trim off so I would be taking the trim off while it's working before you get home and the deal with it properly later.
Taking the trim off with lower tailgate open is 100x easier than when it's stuck closed.

Scott

LRD414

14th January 2017, 10:26 PM

Just re-read your second post. Sounds like the actuator is tired and your fishing line is working well. I find that the manual operation of the latch only just releases the catch and you need someone to be pushing the upper tailgate upwards at the same time as operating the latch manually.

Scott

kenl

15th January 2017, 12:04 AM

The actuator does get tired, like all of the door actuators in the car.

There is a tiny el cheepo electric motor that gets all guncked up around the brushes and causes it to slow down to the point that it stops working.

On my passenger side door actuator I pulled it apart and cleaned the brushes and it hasn't missed a beat in the three years since, there is a post on the disco3 site that showed me this.

The tailgate actuator can't be disassembled so easily, but I believe it can be cleaned if you want to by drilling a hole in the body of the actuator and spraying contact cleaner through it. I did mention it in a thread I started last year and would love for someone to give it a go just to see if it works?

AndrewM

17th January 2017, 03:15 PM

It is far easier to operate the latch by pulling the wire with the trim off so I would be taking the trim off while it's working before you get home and the deal with it properly later.
Taking the trim off with lower tailgate open is 100x easier than when it's stuck closed.

Scott

I agree with Scott 100%. The cable broke near the actuator in my D3 and I had to break into the lower flap from inside the luggage space. I installed an emergency release using an old bicycle brake cable running to just behind the RH passenger door. I was just thankful the drawers and fridge were not on board, otherwise I'd still be there. So definitely leave yourself the ability to have good access to the inside of the lower panel until you get a proper emergency release installed. This should really be a high priority mod as we seems to hear about it just a little too often - it's on my list for the D4.

irondoc

20th January 2017, 08:23 AM

Thanks for all your replies, I

I pulled all the trim off while I still had access to the rear, so it was an easy job. I still can't work out why it failed though, as everything looks like it is working, it is just a tiny bit slow. My one thought is that the door open sensor at thee back might have been malfunctionng also...

anyway, I have ordered a new latch and actuator to replace it and be sure, and will put an emergency release on the new one.

It has been a good exercise as I understand how it works now.

Cheers
Lucas

LRD414

20th January 2017, 10:48 AM

My one thought is that the door open sensor at thee back might have been malfunctionng also...
This theory would be proven if the actuation works ok using the key fob because that's not relying on the microswitch in the tailgate handle to operate the actuator.
And possibly the extra voltage available with engine running may be making a difference if the actuator is tired.

.... and will put an emergency release on the new one.....
Lucas, you're probably all over it but I wrote up a little thing in this thread for the manual release cable using a bike cable that both James and I have done and are very happy with:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-4/101292-manual-tailgate-release-d3-6.html

Cheers,
Scott

speleomike

13th August 2018, 10:17 PM

Hi all

Just went through part of this procedure tonight :-) Occasionally had the tailgate click, but not unlatch but after a few tries it opened. Yesterday I was putting on an AULRO sticker on the tailgate and once that was stuck on, the tailgate would not open. Go figure :-)

I had been following and saving the many many threads on here and DISCO3.CO.UK - Index (http://www.disco3.co.uk) about this problem. Fortunately for me pushing out from the inside while Jill pushed the outside button opened the tailgate. So tonight, whilst we had it open, I removed the internal rear trim to expose the latch and the cable. Took about 1 hour to get all the trim and bits off. Now I can pull the wire cable from the inside when needed.

Next will be to rig up one of the manual pull modifications that have been suggested.

Mike
I really do dig that sig that a few members have referred to; "Land Rover; making mechanics out of motorists for nearly seventy years...".

l00kin4

14th August 2018, 08:04 AM

Scott's excellent manual for this mod is here: https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/104190d1452488760-manual-tailgate-release-d3-tailgate-manual-release.pdf

I made a couple of small mods to the mod listed here: Scott's Discovery 4 (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/225222-scotts-discovery-4-a-38.html)

One very minor correction too - the pic for the hole position on page 7 should be as per this pic below

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1797/43115315785_e7f0710d49_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/28FXggx)

David

Odysseyman

14th August 2018, 03:56 PM

Lucas.
Once you repair it you need to get rid of the RP7,it will attract dust and make it worse.Dust could well be the problem.
You need to get a dry film lube.Sillycum or graphite are the go.They are available in a spray,the graphite spray wont be as suitable as its like a black or grey spraypaint(more used in heavy duty applications).Graphite powder is OK,but may not remain where you need it.The silicone spray is clear.
Andrew

i wouldn’t use silicone spray either, like all the others, WD40, Inox, RP7 et al, it will also attract dust eventually. Get yourself a can of Teflon spray from one of the Supercheap/Repco stores and use that.
Cheers
David

Tankmat

18th August 2018, 11:23 PM

speleomike

20th August 2018, 08:58 PM

Hi all

A few posts ago I mentioned that I've got the same problem on my D4 tailgate. Last week took off the trim and am currently opening the tailgate by putting my hand in from the inside and pulling the cable. The wife does not seem to want to do that. Anyways had to wait till I got a T30 Torx screwdriver to remove the cable mechanism fully.

Tonight I pulled out the mechanism. It's working but the actuator assembly lacks enthusiasm. When pushing the open button on the upper tailgate, the cable pulls in about 1/4 inch. It really needs to pull in 1/2 inch to open the latch. Haven't yet checked the voltage or current drawn but prob would not be much use as I have no idea what it should be pulling or what voltage drop it would normally cause. So I think I need to replace the actuator assembly (part # 999840).

Scott's writeup is ace and the addendum to it. Have printed it off to refer to while working on the tailgate.

Mike

LRD414

21st August 2018, 08:27 AM

Have printed it off to refer to while working on the tailgate.
Revised document attached.

Cheers,
Scott

l00kin4

21st August 2018, 12:17 PM

Revised document attached.

Cheers,
Scott

Thanks Scott, I hope I didn't seem to be picking holes (pardon the pun!) in your excellent manual. I definitely wasn't. It was super-helpful for me.

As an aside too, the only reason I used heatshrink on the clamped section of the cable outer at the bracket was because it was slightly too big for spring clamps the next size down and slightly too small for the clamps I used. It did incidentally provide a bit more grip for the clamps just because it is softer than the cable outer sheath. If the cable outer sheath and the clamps are a better match the heatshrink may not be necessary.

David

LRD414

21st August 2018, 12:36 PM

Thanks Scott, I hope I didn't seem to be picking holes (pardon the pun!) in your excellent manual.
Not at all, happy to make it better.

Cheers,
Scott

speleomike

24th August 2018, 09:59 PM

Hi

Haven't added a manual cable pull yet but tonight replaced the electric actuator and the tailgate now opens fine. I'll leave the trim off till I do that mod.

Roverlord is just so fast and efficient! Emailed and checked on the part Thursday. They shipped it that day. It arrived today (Friday) so fitted it tonight. Wife is going to the farm on Monday so she is happy we now have a working tailgate. How wonderful Australia would be if all companies were so prompt and helpful.

Hi all
A few posts ago I mentioned that I've got the same problem on my D4 tailgate. Last week took off the trim and am currently opening the tailgate by putting my hand in from the inside and pulling the cable. The wife does not seem to want to do that. Anyways had to wait till I got a T30 Torx screwdriver to remove the cable mechanism fully.

Tonight I pulled out the mechanism. It's working but the actuator assembly lacks enthusiasm. When pushing the open button on the upper tailgate, the cable pulls in about 1/4 inch. It really needs to pull in 1/2 inch to open the latch. Haven't yet checked the voltage or current drawn but prob would not be much use as I have no idea what it should be pulling or what voltage drop it would normally cause. So I think I need to replace the actuator assembly (part # 999840).
Mike

EnglishAussie

15th October 2025, 11:24 AM

Hello, I opened the panel from inside the car to access the cable to manually pull it open and the cable was bent towards the carpet section which I wasn't expecting. I pulled the cable from the latch towards the actuator and the cable pulled from the latch! Hadn't heard anyone having that issue before.

Now I have the latch closed, and cable removed from the latch and still attached to the actuator. Can someone help me if they know how to get the latch released with NO CABLE?! ??

RANDLOVER

15th October 2025, 08:48 PM

You might be able to reach up inside the tailgate and operate the latch or pull on the broken bit of the cable unless the end has come off this video will help....https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DLyjEgW4MkNs&ved=2ahUKEwj617Ckh6aQAxXBqFYBHRHfCyIQFnoECDIQAQ&usg=AOvVaw1tqKzFp5mzQDG3irpJU9IA.

Banksy

20th October 2025, 11:57 AM

DieselLSE

20th October 2025, 12:18 PM

Out of interest, do you get any warning that the actuator/cable is about to fail?
My tailgate is releasing, but seems to occasionally click but not fully open.... and I'm wondering if I need to do some preemptive works?
Yes. It is politely telling you that it is about to fail. Replace the mechanism asap and install the emergency release from LRP at the same time.
LRP Upper tailgate kit for Discovery L319 - Land Rover Passion (https://www.landroverpassion.com/en/product/lrp-upper-tailgate-kit-for-discovery-l319/)