Impressions of Aluminium Radiators

[barney]

Folks, Has anyone gone to an aluminium radiator with plastic tanks from the old copper style for their V8 county.
Its time to change mine, it has nearly no fins left and I am looking at alternatives.
Any impressions would be helpful, thanks

[Pedro_The_Swift]

There are a couple of threads in the D2 Forum about the same question.;)

[Tombie]

Simply..

Copper is a better thermal conductor
The copper unit has lasted a mighty long time [emoji41]

Re-core or go a larger core if you want a little bit more..

[barney]

When you live in suburbia, the copper fins corrode rapidly due to the chemicals coming out of the exhaust of cars running unleaded fuel. A copper radiator used to last a lifetime. I know copper is a better electrical conductor bit I also know that aluminium is a better thermal conductor. My main concern was the plastic tank arrangement. If it can last in a landrover.
Also there's the consideration of $300 versus $1000.
I still need to do some shopping around on prices.

[Tombie]

Not even close... copper slays it...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/510.jpg

Copper still lasts a bloody long time even in suburbia..
A hose down regularly will help reduce this..

The attack is as described here: (and a solution)
http://www.pfonline.com/articles/cathodic-epoxy-electrocoat-for-automotive-radiators

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Copper is over 3 times more expensive to buy than aluminium,,

[barney]

Yeah. I am sceptical about the aluminium's longevity. I might just have to bite the bullet and shell out for a copper one.

[DiscoMick]

The copper radiator in our D1 was still working under normal driving after 15.years when I replaced it as a precaution before a Simpson Desert trip. Cost $650 for a new one.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

barney, please let us know who and where and--- ;):D

[barney]

I'll do some shopping around tomorrow while I'm supposed to be working. If I find any good bargains, I'll post them here.

[manic]

Simply..

Copper is a better thermal conductor
The copper unit has lasted a mighty long time [emoji41]

Re-core or go a larger core if you want a little bit more..
Except the radiators available are a copper-brass alloy. Tubes have to be smaller due to weight and the solder used decreases conductivity further, then there's the paint for corrosion protection.. Same core size and an aluminium radiator is more likely to win on cooling capacity.

Id take 'copper' over aluminium for an old rover. Otherwise there is a good chance you will be introduced to the wonders of stray current!

My TDI went through two in 5 years. One pitted from stray current and leaked like a sieve, the other appeared to let go where the tubes entered the plastic tanks! I suspect this failure was due to a core mounted electric fan and 1000+ corrugated kilometers.

To replace I ordered a copper rad from the UK and they sent me another bloody aluminium one! Got a refund and kept the rad, so I'm reluctantly onto aluminium round three! This time checking for stray current and no fan on the core. Wish I had recored the copper one it had from the factory!

[Tombie]

The new generation thermal Epoxy is very efficient - I will agree the welds etc and the Copper Alloy are slightly off pure copper.

They still remain more effective than most alloy/plastic combos... not withstanding the tank on a Copper radiator also conducts heat.

Remember you also have another decision with radiators - fine or course fin. [emoji41]

[ozscott]

Most online comparisons and a radiator guy I trust says these days alloy are better. Especially dual core and more room to cool versus 3 core copper (which I wouldn't have thought but that's what I am being told by some knowledgeable sources). Alloy well looked after even with plastics tanks will last a long long time. Cheers

[barney]

I was talking to a guy from NATRAD yesterday and to get it re-cored, it will cost me $600-$900 depending on the type of radiator. He couldn't give me a specific price until he sees it. My ute is a bit odd, as an early 110, it pre-dated the release of the country here in Australia, has not PAS or A/C and it is not on anyone's books as there were only 8 of them imported, finding parts is ok if you know how to play the game, and mine is probably the same as the country V8 radiator, but they are not easy to come by in copper.

I asked him about the Aluminium ones with the plastic tanks and he said don't touch them. they are only good for a couple of years. I'd imagine the full aluminium ones are better.

More to come!

[ozscott]

I was talking to a guy from NATRAD yesterday and to get it re-cored, it will cost me $600-$900 depending on the type of radiator. He couldn't give me a specific price until he sees it. My ute is a bit odd, as an early 110, it pre-dated the release of the country here in Australia, has not PAS or A/C and it is not on anyone's books as there were only 8 of them imported, finding parts is ok if you know how to play the game, and mine is probably the same as the country V8 radiator, but they are not easy to come by in copper.

I asked him about the Aluminium ones with the plastic tanks and he said don't touch them. they are only good for a couple of years. I'd imagine the full aluminium ones are better.

More to come!
10 at least if good brand.

Cheers

[460cixy]

Alloy is total rubbish in a vehicle like a county/defender with terrible earth and stray current issues recon You could just about watch it disappear before your eyes. And copper is much easier to repair in the bush if needed

[ozscott]

Alloy is total rubbish in a vehicle like a county/defender with terrible earth and stray current issues recon You could just about watch it disappear before your eyes. And copper is much easier to repair in the bush if needed
I can't comment on that mate. I can only speak about their application in a D2. Cheers

[Surrufus]

I had full aluminium radiators in my last two jap sports cars, full aluminium end tanks and the lot, big beefy japanese made Koyo radiators.
Loved the hell out of them... One died in a car crash and the other is still in the car.

I always believed you get an issue with galvanic corrosion using a copper radiator with an alloy block or head. Maybe it's not an issue with steel or iron blocks.

[460cixy]

Alloy blocks and heads suffer as well but there's much more material it needs to remove before its an issue only thing copper rads have issues is with Fin rot and internal blockage. Where people get the idea that alloy is more efficient at cooling is the fin count you can have much more fin to tube ratio in an alloy radiator then copper due to needing thicker material In copper fins to handle vibration but this is only an issue really when space is at a premium like most modern sedans sport cars ect

[manic]

So .....

Copper as a metal has greater thermal conductivity over aluminium.

But aluminium radiators are more efficient than copper (size being equal) because aluminium allows us to build lighter, more efficient cores.

Copper radiators are easier to repair out bush and unlikely to turn to dust from stray current.

Aluminium radiators are alot cheaper, you could buy one and a spare for same price as copper and still have some change for the coolant.

AFAIK the cheaper copper rads are from bearmach and britpart. Genuine replacements are over $1000. My respect for the copper rads is based on service life from the genuine factory copper rads. How long will bearmach/britpart last I don't know.

[Tombie]

I'd have a re-core done with An Australian supplier.

[barney]

Aluminum has the ability to absorb heat faster than copper, and when removed from the heat source, will cool faster because it is less dense than copper. BUT..in a system with steady heat input, like a computer cpu, copper is better at keeping heat going into and out of the metal, much as it is with electricity.