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rocket rod
6th February 2017, 07:06 PM
I noticed in another post here mention of an R&R Beadbreaker so I thought I'd take a look. Safari 4X4 Store R&R Beadbreaker Official Site - Safari 4x4 store R&R Beadbreaker (http://www.safari4x4store.com.au/)

Has anyone used these on a 19" Landrover or 18" GOE rim and know they work as shown on the video. I've tried Tyrepliers, a jack under the tow hitch and driving on the tyre to break the bead and all I got was sweaty.

How much are they?

kelvo
6th February 2017, 09:44 PM
Prices are on their website Products - Safari 4x4 store R&R Beadbreaker (http://www.safari4x4store.com.au/products#!/R&R-BEADBREAKER-PRODUCT-RANGE/c/10427511/offset=0&sort=normal)

You'll need the 'hub anchor' for D3/4 wheels due to them having a small centre hole

Blknight.aus
6th February 2017, 09:49 PM
IVe used both R&R and the tyre pliers.

I prefer the tyre pliers

Redback
7th February 2017, 08:11 AM
You'll need the heavy duty R&R and the hub anchor kit and rim adaptor for 18 and 19" rims due more to the offset and factory rim locks of the Land Rover rims.

Tyre pliers are good also, but you need brute force for them to work and you need the truck tyre pliers because of the factory rim locks on LR rims.

It's bloody hard to get tyres off LR rims, virtually impossible by hand, these two devices make it easier, the R&R is the easiest to use.

Oh yeah I forgot to mention, damage may accure getting the tyres off, so I personally would only use these if you have no other way of fixing the tyre.

87County
7th February 2017, 08:49 AM
My ex-army RFSV had Tyre Pliers in the toolkit (CES?). I must look at the intructions for if I ever have to use them...

ATH
7th February 2017, 09:10 AM
I've had a set of R&Rs for well over 10 years maybe 15 even from memory (or what's left of it :( ) and touch wood I've never had to use them.
I even went to the trouble of printing off instructions and laminating them from a website and carrying them everywhere with us.
Better to at least have them than not even if it'll be steep learning curve if I ever get them out of the bag. :p
AlanH.

Graeme
7th February 2017, 09:14 AM
I don't know if D3/D4 rims are the same as D2 rims but removal from D2 rims had to start at the valve as the lip was lowest at that point.

IvanR
7th February 2017, 12:10 PM
"Has anyone used these on a 19" Landrover or 18" GOE rim and know they work as shown on the video. I've tried Tyrepliers, a jack under the tow hitch and driving on the tyre to break the bead and all I got was sweaty."

Yes we have he R&R beadbreakers and have used them, (nissan rims) but only in practice on he 19" LR rims. Got them after borrowing a pair of tyrepliers and failing to break the bead like above. The jack under the tow hitch only jacked up the D3. The R&Rs while slow do break the bead, you don't need to be superman to do it. With the LR rims you may need to reposition the breaker a coupler of times to break the bead. Another advantage of them is they are used to help remount the tyre on the rim.
Cost? Bloody expensive. But we share them between our group.

Ivan

austastar
7th February 2017, 01:10 PM
Hi,
Having looked at the R&R video, I would imagine making one would not be too difficult.
No need for all the adjustments, just custom size it.
Cheers

Redback
7th February 2017, 01:57 PM
"Has anyone used these on a 19" Landrover or 18" GOE rim and know they work as shown on the video. I've tried Tyrepliers, a jack under the tow hitch and driving on the tyre to break the bead and all I got was sweaty."

Yes we have he R&R beadbreakers and have used them, (nissan rims) but only in practice on he 19" LR rims. Got them after borrowing a pair of tyrepliers and failing to break the bead like above. The jack under the tow hitch only jacked up the D3. The R&Rs while slow do break the bead, you don't need to be superman to do it. With the LR rims you may need to reposition the breaker a coupler of times to break the bead. Another advantage of them is they are used to help remount the tyre on the rim.
Cost? Bloody expensive. But we share them between our group.

Ivan

Yes I have, we tried all that using the jack, but like you only got sweaty, I used my R&R(not heavy duty) on 19" RRS rims, you really need the hub kit because of the offset being so deep, which creates too much angle, I damaged the rim and bent the threaded rod on the bead breaker because of that angle, but I did manage to get the tyre off, took a while though.

As I said you need that hub kit, that's what reduces the angle so you're pulling straight up and not on an angle, if you have steel rims(ie) defender rims, it's not a problem, but alloy D2/3/and D4 or RRS, it's a pain.

weeds
7th February 2017, 02:59 PM
Before buying I would see if there is one you can borrow, I see it mentioned all the time about carrying a spare carcass but until you try it in the front yard you don't really know what your up to.......no point finding out I then middle of now where when the thread leaver bend before getting the tyres over the lip.

In my previous employment we had to fit new tyre using tyre levers....it's enough effort on a defender rim to convince me me two fit any spare carcass with a rim.....**** changing a carcass on the side of the road.

rocket rod
9th February 2017, 12:32 PM
I just had a call from a local supplier of the bead breaker suggesting I'd need to spend around $650 for all the bits to suit LR & Compomotive wheels. I had already ordered my 6th Compomotive wheel and given the cost is about the same I think the bead breaker is not for me. He suggested that it takes quite a few goes on different positions on the wheel before you can break the bead.

He also said that you can't insert a tube into the tyre because of the valve position. I can't confirm that but it would be another reason not to buy.

Thanks to all those who replied.

Redback
9th February 2017, 02:58 PM
I just had a call from a local supplier of the bead breaker suggesting I'd need to spend around $650 for all the bits to suit LR & Compomotive wheels. I had already ordered my 6th Compomotive wheel and given the cost is about the same I think the bead breaker is not for me. He suggested that it takes quite a few goes on different positions on the wheel before you can break the bead.

He also said that you can't insert a tube into the tyre because of the valve position. I can't confirm that but it would be another reason not to buy.

Thanks to all those who replied.

Your only other option is the truck tyre pliers, they do work, but it's hard work, I watched Dave (Blknight.aus) do a D2 Alloy when we went to the Cape together, I reckon he took about 45mins to change and fix the tyre.

Russrobe
10th February 2017, 01:42 PM
Your only other option is the truck tyre pliers, they do work, but it's hard work, I watched Dave (Blknight.aus) do a D2 Alloy when we went to the Cape together, I reckon he took about 45mins to change and fix the tyre.
Just out of interest, was the D2 rim also an 18"?? If so 45 mins without any damage to the bead or wheel is quite impressive.

Redback
10th February 2017, 02:03 PM
Just out of interest, was the D2 rim also an 18"?? If so 45 mins without any damage to the bead or wheel is quite impressive.

No, 16" alloy.

Russrobe
10th February 2017, 02:23 PM
No, 16" alloy.
Would love to see him do an 18. I can push the first bead of a 10r15" on by hand with enough soap. Wouldn't even bother attempting it with an 18" wheel though .

Redback
11th February 2017, 07:15 AM
Would love to see him do an 18. I can push the first bead of a 10r15" on by hand with enough soap. Wouldn't even bother attempting it with an 18" wheel though .

You could ask, Dave's very accommodating and a good bloke, give him a PM, I'm sure he could arrange something.

Blknight.aus
11th February 2017, 10:10 AM
Ive done a couple of the 18s and 20 (not a landy rim though)

the trick is to use some of those ribber pallet strapping plastic blocks to help secure the rubber down and to protect the rims.

the lower the sidewall profile the harder you work.

bobakers
12th February 2017, 02:46 PM
Hi
Went down this path last year in prep for our trip to ayres rock. Ended up making an adapter that fits onto the standard LR jack which then mounts upside down into the mitchell bros hitch. tested it out at home and a few lessons learnt:
1. have to disconnect van (obviously) to use but its only for fitting the carcass so have the spare before I need to use it.
2. need good tyre levers (munns)
3. 12v air compressor could not seat the new tyre so ended up buying a 240v air compressor with 40 ltr tank for $99 from repco, kept the tank and pressure switch and fitted the blue tongue compressor to it. It plugs into the anderson plug and works a treat.
4. I have painted rims and they will get scratched, emergency use only.
5. Its hard work so if I got to the point of needing to use it I would either wait for the end of the day after a beer or its a long lunch.
Any way as it usually works when you prepare, 6500kms and not one flat.

Bob

Russrobe
12th February 2017, 03:02 PM
Do you think those extra parts weigh more than a 15 odd kg spare wheel? Would certainly cost most than the $150 max you would pay for a 2nd hand 18" LR original wheel.

Redback
13th February 2017, 08:02 AM
I still have my R&R beadbreaker, so I was thinking I might get the hub kit and see if it works like in their video.

Apparently the R&R was originally designed to fit tyres, it was just an added bonus that it can be used to break the bead and remove tyres.

He re-fits the tyre in this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7slF7eg83M

Ean Austral
13th February 2017, 08:35 AM
I still have my R&R beadbreaker, so I was thinking I might get the hub kit and see if it works like in their video.

Apparently the R&R was originally designed to fit tyres, it was just an added bonus that it can be used to break the bead and remove tyres.

He re-fits the tyre in this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7slF7eg83M

Do you have a link to a video using the hub kit . I purchased 1 second hand that has the hub kit but the instructions don't show it being used.

Would not be to hard to knock up something similar to the hub kit from what I can see.

Cheers Ean

Redback
13th February 2017, 11:37 AM
Do you have a link to a video using the hub kit . I purchased 1 second hand that has the hub kit but the instructions don't show it being used.

Would not be to hard to knock up something similar to the hub kit from what I can see.

Cheers EanIf you play the video in youtube, it's the next one after that one, it's also on the website, there's a link to their website on page one.

rangieman
13th February 2017, 11:44 AM
Do you have a link to a video using the hub kit . I purchased 1 second hand that has the hub kit but the instructions don't show it being used.

Would not be to hard to knock up something similar to the hub kit from what I can see.

Cheers Ean

This one:)
https://youtu.be/_ozUNbW5o4g

Ean Austral
13th February 2017, 12:44 PM
The video now makes sense of whats in the kit I bought. The hub adaptor is different as it was to fit land rover rims only but it makes sense.


I will give it a try and see how it works. I wondered what those things were with the straps on them , thought it was something that may have been put in the bag by accident. I did get told they were used once as a test so they are out of the bag.


Cheers Ean

Redback
13th February 2017, 01:17 PM
The video now makes sense of whats in the kit I bought. The hub adaptor is different as it was to fit land rover rims only but it makes sense.


I will give it a try and see how it works. I wondered what those things were with the straps on them , thought it was something that may have been put in the bag by accident. I did get told they were used once as a test so they are out of the bag.


Cheers Ean

Yes the hub kit was originally designed for Land Rover alloy rims, before that was an adaptor for the R&R to extend the end bead breaker to make it longer(the end that breaks the bead) this still wasn't working well, that's when the hub was introduced, it has evolved from there.

Ean Austral
13th February 2017, 01:24 PM
Yes the hub kit was originally designed for Land Rover alloy rims, before that was an adaptor for the R&R to extend the end bead breaker to make it longer(the end that breaks the bead) this still wasn't working well, that's when the hub was introduced, it has evolved from there.


Yeh makes sense as it has L/R 18 stamped inside the hub. I have 1 bolt missing so will pick 1 up and then give it a run. I have a 17' steel rim that needs a new tyre and then I will do the 18' alloy and see how it goes.


Cheers Ean

Redback
13th February 2017, 02:20 PM
Yeh makes sense as it has L/R 18 stamped inside the hub. I have 1 bolt missing so will pick 1 up and then give it a run. I have a 17' steel rim that needs a new tyre and then I will do the 18' alloy and see how it goes.


Cheers Ean

I'll put off my purchase until then, not going away till July anyway, can you ask that boofhead Liam to give us his new number if you see him:)