Series 2

[whitehillbilly64]

Hi.
Maybe off to look at a series 2 SWB.
Seller want a couple hundred, but will offer less.
Had really good doors and the tops were taken off and stored in the shed. The canvas top maybe in the shed some where also
SWB hoops and roll cage. Good bonnet, and tinwear but not sure of firewall. Chassis rusted.
What numbers give the year. Same place, rear spring hanger, as on my series 3 ????
Off to look in the next two weeks.
He even has a car trailer I can borrow to get it home.😁

Whitehillbilly

[JDNSW]

If it is Australian assembled one the number will be on the LH rear back spring hanger, as well as on a plate screwed to the firewall in front of the gearlever. The important part of the number is the suffix letter - should not be one for Series 2.

A few years ago I paid $150 for one without door tops or hood bows and knocked about panels, so it seems to me that the asked $200 is reasonable.

[OneOff]

Just to put it in perspective as I see it...

A set of hoodsticks from Rover Spares is $1015.00. I reckon it's worth the $200...

Last weekend I paid $450 for an irrepairable wreck. I've already taken more value than that from it in parts that I needed for my re-build.


M2c

OneOff.

[whitehillbilly64]

Thanks for the replies.
All 2A's have the headlights in the Guards ????
Should I be seeing a solex carby,
what are they like to work on, parts, gaskets available ????
I know my way around the Zenith, simular ????
Pics to follow, when I get to it.

whitehillbilly

[Homestar]

Late 2a's have the lights in the guards - earlier ones had the lights in the middle.

Parts are plentiful and the vehicle is like any other series to work on so you'll be fine. :)

Solex carby is a different beast to the zenith but no harder to overhaul and set up IMO - I like them.

[whitehillbilly64]

Thanks Gav.
I have been a bit quiet.
Getting other projects out of the way.
I ride Trials this time of year.
1960 Greeves Trials motorbike, or a 'modern' 1995 Fantic Section.
First Trial of the year last Sunday. Just had to get them sorted.
Back to my Landrover a now, so more questions to come.
See my two manuals cover the Soles Carby.
Thanks again.

Whitehillbilly

[JDNSW]

As Gav says, Series 2a changed to headlights in the guards in 1969. The carburettor changed from Solex to Zenith in about the mid sixties. There is little if any difference between them as far as performance goes. The Zenith I find easier to understand how it works and possibly easier to get parts/replacements for. They are interchangeable but note that the Zenith needs an adapter between it and the manifold.

I think the reason for the change came from the acquisition of Solex by Zenith, with either the Solex being discontinued or the Zenith being cheaper rather than it being better.

John

[whitehillbilly64]

Ok Boys and Girls.
Got some numbers and pics, still downloading.
Chassis, 24611029C
Plate near gear lever.
Leyland plate.
Body No 1697 ( I Think )
88/ 1697.
Other plate.
25301811 a or could be b or 8, using smaller stamp.
Plate in front of steering wheel,
ANNAND + THOMPSON.
NEWSTEAD, BRISBANE.
Sole distributor for QLD + Northern NSW.

Thanks, and looking forward for any info and dates. [biggrin]

whitehillbilly

[whitehillbilly64]

Even though it has sat for 10 years, I thinks some work may have gone into this Beast.
So, what carby is fitted ????
Can I get spares and diagrams for cleaning and tuning. [biggrin]
The alloy inlet and outlet manifolds of the carby, appear very professionally made.

whitehillbilly

[whitehillbilly64]

Plate in front of steering wheel.

whitehillbilly

[whitehillbilly64]

A few pics.

whitehillbilly

[whitehillbilly64]

Looks like 243***** with pic enlarged.
dual fuel tanks with LH dip stick !!!!
New Stanley head lights with chrome surrounds. New drive shaft rubbers, new radiator or not that old. New master clutch cyl.

whitehillbilly

[OneOff]

Wow, you've got some work ahead of you there... did you buy it? looking forward to seeing it progress

[Dark61]

Nice and crispy, i like them like that.
cheers,
D

[mick88]

Looks to have a few good bits on it Shane, but the owner would need to be forthcoming with a reasonable cheque to cover your efforts to remove it.
Shouldn't the chassis number and the "ID" plate numbers match?

Cheers, Mick.

[JDNSW]

The chassis number suffix gives it a date of 1967.

The carburettor is an SU. The fitting of this and the exhaust extractors is a 'one off', but would significantly improve performance, possibly athe expense of driveability, and with the risk of icing in the right conditions. Carburettor parts would be readily available, but other parts such as hoses, gaskets, exhaust system etc would need to be made.

No problems with returning it all to standard, if that is what you wanted to do.

John

[whitehillbilly64]

Thanks for the replies.
I looked up plate and chassis numbers on CaLvin.
They do not match. 1967 chassis, 1962 plate.
So an early S11A then, with headlights on the grill.
The price went UP as I showed more interest.
$300 and seller will deliver. Still keen on $200 delivered.
It has turned out that I have his old S111 (Gilbert)
keep you posted.
still a cheap full hoop set.

whitehillbilly

[Dark61]

I have a chassis on Darwin that tells me its 59 - 60 but the bodywork according to the plate on the bulkhead is 67 - 68. Unable to make sense of how this would have come about.
cheers,
d

[JDNSW]

I have a chassis on Darwin that tells me its 59 - 60 but the bodywork according to the plate on the bulkhead is 67 - 68. Unable to make sense of how this would have come about.
cheers,
d

Bulkheads, due to rust, are often the first bit to be replaced - and the plate is likely to have come with it. Or equally, a rusty chassis has been replaced with an earlier one. Either is possible. A third alternative is that the plate has been moved from one vehicle to another, possibly by accident, perhaps when it was repainted and the wrong one fitted.

John

[whitehillbilly64]

How does one start a Series 11A,
Key position ? Starter alloy knob under dash ? Same start up lights as per my series 3?
Thanks.

whitehillbilly

[JDNSW]

Series 2a petrol start used an alloy push button below the dash up to 1967. Post 1967 key start. And, of course, any date could have been changed. All diesels are key start.

John

[whitehillbilly64]

New home today.[biggrin]
more pics to follow.
One door and two good door Tops.
Plus Land rover manual, series 3. ( may have been Gilberts manual ) as they appear to have been stable mates.
Noticed 15 inch rms. standard or should be 16's ????

whitehillbilly

[JDNSW]

All Series Landrovers came with 16" in this country except for Series 3 Game, which had 15". Although 15" was optional, and fitted to North American spec at least most of the time, I have never heard of any here specifying this option.

[whitehillbilly64]

Thanks John.
Try and find some numbers.
Swivel balls the same on 11A and S3. My S3 has the larger studs. Larger stub axle or just outer faceFlange and larger studs holes.
Dif gear ratio front and rear same ???? As my S3
Thanks

Whitehillbilly

[JDNSW]

Hubs are the same 2a to 3, balls are the same, swivel housings differed in detail when 2a went from the arm on the bottom to the arm on the top, but are interchangeable and can be converted if you know what you are doing. Hubs are interchangeable up to about 1980 when the bearings changed, but as you note, Series 3 had 16mm studs and Series 2a had 9/16"BSF studs, same as Series 2 and 1. But the last of Series 2a had the Series 3 studs. And as with any other parts check what you have, since the bits can be swapped as assemblies even if not individual parts.

Diff ratios are the same front and back and all Series were 4.7 except for Series 3 Stage 1 (3.54) and a small number of very early Series 1. But they may have been changed since new, and most of the Rover diffs are a simple swap.

Hope this helps,

John

[mox]

I have a workshop manual published December 1963 that came with 1961 LWB ute acquired last year from estate of a relative who owned it since mid 60's. It has three pages of details for 1959, 1959 1960 and 1961 Series 2. Then Series 2A - presumably up to late '63.
There are six columns. Model, Vehicle and Chassis Commencing numbers, Engine Commencing Numbers, Gearbox Commencing Numbers, Front Axle Commencing Numbers and Rear Axle Commencing Numbers. Within Model is 88, 109 or Station Wagon, Petrol or Diesel, Right or left hand drive and Home, Export or CKD. The latter is Complete Knocked Down. Mine was assembled by Pressed Metal Corporation, Sydney Serial number 109 4868. A much higher number than yours, which is a S2A of some sort. Like other serial numbers, not necessarily in complete logical sequence. 109's probably commenced at a high number and maybe more of them were assembled.

The Land Rover Series 2 numbers all start with 1 - and have no suffix letter. Then chassis numbers of 2A's - presumably commencing late 1961 and to late 1963 range from 2410,,,,,,to 3040.....and all have a lower case a suffix.

According to this manual , 2430 then suffix a was starting number for Petrol 88 CKD RHD. And starting number for Petrol 109 CKD RHD was 2530. The latter does not make sense with the PMC plate for a shorty installed above it. Unless the numbers stopped with the end of the production run involved and then started gain for a later batch. Meanwhile, worth mentioning that I read somewhere on aulro that the Land Rover records from Pressed Metal Corporation have been lost or destroyed.

Presumably, you will find the engine, gearbox and both axle housing numbers. In order of decreasing probability of not being original. Will be interesting to see what these suggest the original model each component was in.

[whitehillbilly64]

Thanks for the replies.
Mox, will try and get some more numbers today.
May have found marks on the wheels, will rub back and see what I find.
John, What numbers were on the Game 15 inch wheels ????
Took out the plugs and tried to turn the motor, but seized.
squirted some oil in each cylinder, two days ago.
will see if I get some movement today.
Any other suggestions please, before I pull the head off.
Thanks.

whitehillbilly

[chazza]

Took out the plugs and tried to turn the motor, but seized.
squirted some oil in each cylinder, two days ago.
will see if I get some movement today.
Any other suggestions please, before I pull the head off.
Thanks.

whitehillbilly

Pour a healthy amount of diesolene into each cylinder and leave it to soak in for at least a day.

Use the starting-handle when you try to turn it and really put some effort into it. It took two or three days to unseize my S1 engine using this method,

Cheers Charlie

[whitehillbilly64]

Thanks Chazza.
Off to get a couple of ltrs of diesoline.
Keep you posted.

whitehillbilly

[whitehillbilly64]

Soaked away, 1+2 cylinder. still sitting in 3+4
I was just wondering why, with the claimed improvements the SU carby makes to throttle response and fuel economy, and its simplicity,
Why don't more series owners convert to them ????
what are the benefits of using extractors, instead of normal exhaust system.
Thanks.

whitehillbilly

[1950landy]

Extractors let the exhaust gases flow better . With SU's they can be a problem off road as when the vehicle is on angle the fuel can be too high or too low in the jet causing them to folld or starve for fuel.

[whitehillbilly64]

Thanks.
got some numbers off the 15 inch wheels.

whitehillbilly

[whitehillbilly64]

Engine Number.

whitehillbilly

[whitehillbilly64]

Extractors are well made.
Home job ????
Also front diff protection plate. Have to look for repaired crack.

whitehillbilly

[whitehillbilly64]

yellow on guard, which appear on the front bits.
None on seat box and rear tub.
Plus pics of the SU carby, using original throttle linkages.
effort has gone in to get the float bowl upright.
Plate on guard, with 4 factory type rivets, suggest exhaust exit ????

whitehillbilly

[JDNSW]

1. The reinforcing on the axle housing was optional, but seems to be fitted to almost all Series 2 109 and all Series 2a on.

2. The early 2.25 engine had a manifold that had the exhaust exit up and out, and the pipe probably originally went out there. This may have originally been the case, or even if originally fitted with a down exit manifold, and the guard was patched in manufacture.

[whitehillbilly64]

Will take a pic of the key, which was cut and the spare.
6 digit phone no.
last 6 numbers of this company.

Locksmith Townsville - Norm Hyatt Locksmiths 24/7 call out. (http://www.normhyattlocksmiths.com.au/)

According to Google 6 digit numbers were between 1960-71. Original 67 cut spare maybe ????

whitehillbilly

[mick88]

Soaked away, 1+2 cylinder. still sitting in 3+4
I was just wondering why, with the claimed improvements the SU carby makes to throttle response and fuel economy, and its simplicity,
Why don't more series owners convert to them ????
what are the benefits of using extractors, instead of normal exhaust system.
Thanks.

whitehillbilly


Shane I only came across this adaptor for an SU type carby yesterday, so obviously there still are people fitting them to two and a quarters.
Adaptor is designed to accept (1.75") SU HS6 & HIFF 44 Carburettors.

As for the extractors, should be increased performance, maybe improved economy, probably more noise in cab.

Cheers, Mick.

[JDNSW]

And less flexible driving - the extractors work best at one specific rpm where the pulse from one cylinder results in a pressure reduction for the next cylinder to fire. This happens at one rpm, and the extractors are usually designed for this to occur at maximum power rpm to up maximum power.

[whitehillbilly64]

Thanks Gents.
Love learning about these machines.
Good new about the diff guard.
So, why do the 15inch and 16 inch rims have the same part number ???? Took the Tape to them tonite.
Looked for a gearbox numbers. have to do a bit more crud sanding.
Guess I should be spending time on Gilbert (S3)

whitehillbilly

[whitehillbilly64]

We, after a couple of weeks of soaking in various fluids, nothing moving, so I decided to take the head off.
Number one, exhaust valve open, Number 1 cylinder was the problem.
Anyway freed and now running. [biggrin][biggrin]
Didn't take pics of battery before taking it out.
Key on, power to - side of coil.. NEG Earth ????
Also what does, TOP 0015 NF mean on piston ????
Thanks
whitehillbilly

[mick88]

I suspect the 020 means twenty thou oversize.
So possibly been bored and reconditioned/rebuilt at some stage.
Measure the bore diameter if you have a set of vernier calipers, or better still, a micrometer and telescopic gauges.
Standard is 90.47 mm or 3.562" and twenty thou over should take it to approx 91mm or 3.582"
A good quality steel ruler across the top of the cylinder would be good enough to reveal if it's been bored out.

Cheers, Mick.

[whitehillbilly64]

Hi Mick.
rebored to 0.20.
Have the Gear
box Number. 25299925 D
Anyone shed light on it and motor, which appeared to be a S111.
Thanks.

whitehillbilly

[whitehillbilly64]

After spending a day Tinkering, i have a few more questions.
On the dash two lights. One top centre ? One lower left ????
The wipers, not working, have constant 12v. Where is the switch ???? Does it put the earth through ????
Is the oil pressure light inside the Speedo as per S3 ??? And ignition light.
Also noticed a switch ???? On the brake system, on chassis. What does this light.
I have a seperate horn switch. How does the original wire get to the steering wheel central horn ????
Thanks.

Whitehillbilly

[JDNSW]

After spending a day Tinkering, i have a few more questions.
On the dash two lights. One top centre ? One lower left ????
The wipers, not working, have constant 12v. Where is the switch ???? Does it put the earth through ????
Is the oil pressure light inside the Speedo as per S3 ??? And ignition light.
Also noticed a switch ???? On the brake system, on chassis. What does this light.
I have a seperate horn switch. How does the original wire get to the steering wheel central horn ????
Thanks.

Whitehillbilly

Lights on dash - top centre, ignition/generator, lower left, oil pressure. Should be a third one on the bottom right that is the cold start warning, but from what I could see is missing, replaced with a switch. High beam in ammeter/fuel gauge combination.
Switch on wiper is on the motor. There should be a parking lever which turns the wiper onto the screen and that frees a second lever to turn up that is the switch. But those motors are not the originals. Still probably have switches on the motor.

Switch on brake system will be a pressure switch for stop light. Later models had a switch on the pedal.

Separate horn switch would have been original on that car, the steering wheel and horn push is later. On the later one the horn switch earths through the switch, and the rotation of the wheel is managed by a bronze brush onto a contact ring round the top of the column, concealed by a cup screwed to the back of the wheel hub. These bits are probably there - the changed wheel must mean the steering box is also changed, as the fitting at the top is different. Early wheels with wire spokes held on by a clamp bolt, later ones with solid spokes like the one you have, by a nut on the end of the shaft.

It is obvious that this vehicle has had extensive modifications, so you need to be careful with assumptions as to how things are!

Hope this helps.

[whitehillbilly64]

Thanks for your reply John.
More questions to come.
Got a SU carby kit through repco.

whitehillbilly

[whitehillbilly64]

Took Gilberts wheels, Sunrasia, with 31x10.50x15 tyres, and fitted them to the S11a Rears. Its tyres leak.
I thought I would crack the Brake cylinder bleed and brake pipes.
I noticed the brake lines are between the Axle strap and diff, which I suspect Is wrong, as the line can fowl against the strap ????
Also I noticed a plate which moved up and down. Looking closely, I wonder if its a locking plate for the adjuster nut.
Bit dark to take pics.
Thanks.

whitehillbilly

[whitehillbilly64]

Previous owner rang to say he found Driver side door bottom panel and Tail Gate.
Bright Yellow appears, as does a few others colours on the doors. What might this Possible, Original bright Yellow colour be.????
How does the door "Dampener" connect to the Dash Panel ???? Below shelf or above, using hole in side shelf plate ???? can the Dampener bush just be a suspension Linkage bush from a modern car ???? Pics please.
Are the door fixing brackets and screw the same on later series ??? Clips that attach to the door pillar.
Tail gate has 2 top and two bottom brackets missing. Plus piggy tails, chain and Tub bracket. Anyone help out with these ????
Ordered 2, 90, 2 inch silicone bends ( for SU carby ) and one 2.50/2.00 inch reducer from original air cleaner. Also 700mm of 2 inch exhaust pipe to link the three together.
Dave the Exhaust "Man" said all the pipe they use is coated, so doesn't rust like the old stuff.
What is the best size to make a New exhaust system from. 2 inch or a bit smaller ????
Lots of questions.
Thanks

whitehill

[whitehillbilly64]

Just wondering the Thread of the door hinge bolts.
How are the inserts fitted.
Many thanks

whitehillbilly

[JDNSW]

The thread is UNF, I'm pretty certain, but the book lists two different bolts 78352 and 255227 as alternatives. May be different length, but possible early ones are BSF. The nut is shown as a removable small bent strip of steel with a nut welded to it (MRC2178) only for late models - I suspect the earlier setup is a non-replaceable steel strip with two tapped holes in it, held loosely in a pressed steel bracket spot welded to the inside of the pillar, but someone who has had one apart more recently than I have may be better able to help. I think it would be a mistake to assume the setup is necessarily the same as with Series 3.

[whitehillbilly64]

Thanks John.
Looking at mine, the bracket is a loose fit inside, bit will look to see if a nut is fitted.
Guess you could open up a slot, like the later ones, and add the bent individual bracket and nut.
I played around with the 2, today, should be working on the 3.
Discovered only idling on Cyl 1 and 2. that why the motor shook a bit. seems to run ok flat out. Amazing how it runs with one plug lead fitted !!!!
Started by changing plugs, no change so old ones back in.
New Leads, no change. old ones back.
New dissy cap, no change. old one back.
New rotor, no change, so old one back.
Lots of movement on dissy bearing, so pulled apart another I had and mixed bits of the ones with wheel adjuster.
Now wont start. Took notice of rotor and slot, when pulling out old dissy. Put back the same.
Think its a points problem now. Multi meter not showing as it should. Will put old points back in and see how I go.
Valves next check.
Any other suggestions.
Thanks

whitehillbilly

[JDNSW]

Idling only on a couple of cylinders could be ignition, but equally could be valve seating, or leaks in the intake manifold to head gasket.

[whitehillbilly64]

Was thinking about my next project, as Gilbert maybe be coming to a close.
I want to use the S2 in this post. And maybe use the panels from the S3, which are in really good Patina condition.
And I like the colour.
I like the lay out of the S2's going even more simple, with a little twist.
Or I do the Good Chassis LWB Military S2a, adding a hard top.
O what to do.
What would you do ????

whitehillbilly

[whitehillbilly64]

Moving the S2, as the S 1 is locked down across the border in Qld.
How will Gilbert handle a 750kg car trailer and S2 5klms down a quiet flatish road.
Thanks.

whitehillbilly

[JDNSW]

Should not be a problem.

[mick88]

Given that your towing with a shorty just make sure you balance the load right, not too much on the tow bar, but enough to keep the vehicle stable.
As for actually pulling, well the 2.25 will do it with ease, especially at sensible speeds. As for stopping, well you should be right given that you have only recently rebuilt your vehicle, so the brakes should be in good order, as hopefully your trailer brakes are as well.
I have done plenty of towing with all my shorties, no issues at all.

Good luck.
Cheers, Mick.

[whitehillbilly64]

All moved.
No problems.

whitehillbilly

[JDNSW]

Told you it would not be!

[whitehillbilly64]

Good Morning.
Replacement chassis at the sand blaster.
Might look like Swiss cheese when done [bigrolf]

whitehillbilly

[whitehillbilly64]

Few more.