Driving light suggestions for a D3

[drivesafe]

Hi folks, I’m going to put a set of driving lights on a D3.

I’ve already made a quick mount and remove roof top bracket for the RR but I want to make a set up along similar lines to MacMan’s great job.

Now as to the actual mount, I will work that part out but I have a question as to what type of driving lights should I fit and if you have any ideas please state why you recommend what brand and type of driving lights.

I’m not interested in spending a zillion dollars but I have been using Hella 181’s or their predecessors, for about 25 to 30 years.

I’ve always been happy with them but I usually fit 4 to 6 driving lights per vehicle. This time as it’s the wife’s , I am restricted to just 1 set so I would like some ideas.

I have a set of IPFs on the RR and as far as I am concerned, they are just ordinary so any improvements would be appreciated and this is going to be an expansion to PROJECT 3 in the Projects and Tutorial Section.

http://www.aulro.com/modules.php?name=Foru...iewtopic&t=5471 (http://www.aulro.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=5471)

I’ll finally be doing a full installation with instructions and loads of pics so add your bit here to help.

[one_iota]

Well I'll declare my bias:

Lightforce: Australian designed and modern materials (Polycarbonate)

However with the D3 I pose a few questions:

1. What is wrong with the existing lights so why add more?
2. How far do you need to see?
3. How can you be true to the Designers' aesthetic? (the D3 seems to be "closed architecture" when it comes to accessories). There is the ultimate challenge.

[drivesafe]

Hi Mahn, not wrong about “Closed Construction” but I am not all that impressed with the existing D3 lights.

Don’t get me wrong, the lights are better than average but I’ve been spoilt by all the lights I run on the RR so I’m out to do a minimal improvement and that means working out how to wire driving lights to the D3 and how to mount them with as little, if any alterations ( no drilling holes ) as possible.

One thing though, at this stage with only a small amount of use I do not like the HID lights. Although quite bright, that is the problem, there is a very distinct cut-off line and this has a very bad effect on on coming vehicles.

Cheers

[MacMan]

Lightforce all the way. Australian made, bright as all bejesus and both light and strong. I have RM170s, but the RM140s would be ok too. I decided to got the 170s because there was room for them, and while the bigger RM240s would be brighter again the frontal area was just too big and I was nervous about cooling problems with them fitted. I am VERY happy with them.

240XGTs would look a little better I am sure, but they cannot be focussed and cost a heap more.

I can source lights and filters through work if you like (not the 240XGTs though), so feel free to PM me.

Cheers,

Mike

[drivesafe]

Hi MacMan, I’ve PMed you and I’ve also been reading a few posts here and on other web sites and the Lightforce seem to have a good reputation as compered to similar lights plus I like to support Australian made, so I’ll go and have a look at them at Super Cheap to day and see both what the look like and how much they are.

I also want to see how they mount and I’ll be looking at what else is available.

Cheers

[Pedro_The_Swift]

what about a bulb replacement first??

are they that bad you need another couple of hundred watts??

[drivesafe]

Hi pedro, as I posted, the lights on the D3 are better than average but for more than 30 years, because of preferring night driving, I have always run heaps of driving lights, 6 to 8 additional lights at a time and I like the comfort and stress reduction that comes with the extra light.

The problem is that the wife has made it quite clear that there is to be no permanent modifications, I.E. <span style="color:red">NO DRILLING HOLES.</span>

I’m looking at all options including roof mounts ( in my dreams ) and I will most likely be replacing any globes that come with whatever driving lights I get with Philips Crystal Vision 55w globes.

I’ve been running 10 of these philips globe on the RR for the last 2 years and only two weeks ago I replaced the first blown globe, which is not too bad considering the amount of night driving I do.

Cheers.

[Michael2]

I hear what you said about the HIDs, but if you're not drilling / modifying too much, then I guess you're down to a single battery system. You've already said that you do a lot of night driving, and are used to having lots of light.

Depending on what your budget can extend to, have a look at the Hella Predator HIDs, and reconsider the HID idea. They only run at 35W ea, which is pretty low power consumption, but the beam lights up for 1,000 meters and from memory the spread for about 700m.

I looked at them awhile ago, but I was scared off by the price (the best price I got, which was wholesale from a Hella sales rep, was $900 per light 8O :!: :!: https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ ) I decided to keep the old Cibies on the Rangie, and the SIII has QH 100W Hi Beams, so it's not going to outrun it's light.

[Jamo]

Hello drivesafe

I have Lightforce 170's on the Subaru and they work great. And They're as tough as! I hit a six foot tall 'roo a couple of years back; smashed up the front end ( didn't have a bar!), but the 170's were still intact and could be transferred straight onto the new front end!

Do you have the Landrover nudge bar?? If so you can get brackets to mount the lights from underneath the top rail.

You can also get brackets that fit to the top of the bumper if you don't have the bar.

What I don't know is if you can use the LR brackets as a base to make up a setup like MacMan has.

But I know what you mean about the lights, I've got the active cornering Xenon lights on my D3. The spread is fantastic, but the reach at night on country roads is not that flash. I'm getting an ARB bar and winch fitted in early Jan and am having a set of IPF Extremes fitted at the same time, both as spots. If they don't come up to scratch, I'll sell them and put on a set of Lightforce.

Happy New Year. James

[Pedro_The_Swift]

it does make you wonder if whoever decides on 'headlight power' sacrificed power for asthetics.

maybe the designers should have done a run across the nullabor at night 8O

[drivesafe]

Hi folks, thanks for the replies.

Michael2, I will be fitting a second battery but the lights are first cab off the rank for now.

The battery can be fitted with no obvious alterations so it’s a safe install.

The lights are another thing so far, but I’ll work something out and as for the Hella HID’s, not even a consideration. No matter what the amount of light is coming out of them, for a lot less cost I have a far better spread on my RR


Jamo, I saw One_Iota’s pics showing the spread paten of his Lightforce and I’m impressed so at this stage I think they are the front runners and although I have kicked around the idea of a nudge bar, if I was going that way I would go for a full bull bar but they wreck the look of the D3s ( in my opinion )



Right on the money Pedro, but I always go for a good side to side spread paten. Up until probably the last 2 years, I have always covered long distances at night, at high speeds ( slowing down these days, must be age ) and I have never found any advantage for being able to see 40 kilometres down the road in front of me.

As 300 to 400 metres is well and truly a safe breaking distance, thats all I have ever aimed for, but I do like being able to see around corners and both see and blind roos off to either side of the road.

Cheers all.

[spudboy]

What happens to 140/170 model Lightforce lights when they get submerged in (muddy) water? Are they waterproof? Best to only mount them on a roofrack?

[one_iota]

Originally posted by spudboy
What happens to 140/170 model Lightforce lights when they get submerged in (muddy) water? Are they waterproof? Best to only mount them on a roofrack?

Not that hoary chestnut again :wink: 8O https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Submerged (without a breather) when on and hot they will "suck" in water with bad results. :cry: I am told that the reflectors go black 8O

However most drivers don't encounter muddy and wet crossings whilst having having the spots on. After all you shouldn't get that deep without walking it first.

But if that is the nature of your driving then buy the 240's with breathers, mount the smaller jobbies on the roof or buy a submarine :wink:

[spudboy]

OK - I'll take that as as 'yes' they can be submerged just so long as they are off (cold).

Are the breathers something you make up yourself? I had a look on the LightForse website, but I can't find anything about the breathers.

[Maggot4x4]

Another vote for lightforce, I have the 240's on my Commodore, just brilliant for the driving I do. Rockhampton - Hervey Bay once or twice a week.

On the Rangie I have Cibie's, and have never had any problems with them, and I always thought they were great till I got the Lightforce.

Would not ever waste my money on IPF's again. In fact, I won a set of new IPF's in the rectangle shape. I gave them to a mate free of charge.

[drivesafe]

Hi maggot4x4, I’m inclined to agree with you about the IPFs. As I posted, I also use Hella 181s which are smaller than the IPFs but are nearly as good a range so why spend so much more for so little an advantage.

A couple of questions for you.

Do you use any filters and how much did you pay for them.

Thanks for the reply and cheers.

[Maggot4x4]

Originally posted by drivesafe
Hi maggot4x4, I’m inclined to agree with you about the IPFs. As I posted, I also use Hella 181s which are smaller than the IPFs but are nearly as good a range so why spend so much more for so little an advantage.

A couple of questions for you.

Do you use any filters and how much did you pay for them.

Thanks for the reply and cheers.

I am just running the covers that come with them at the moment, but I am thinking about getting the Blue covers as the only downside with the lightforce is big white signs,, they are that bright they can dazzle you. The blue covers are ment to go a long way to fixing that. They light up road signs and cats eye markers to 1500m, which I find great, as the trucks see you coming and dip their lights well in advance of you. They are also good at stopping your eyes from getting tired as you can see very well.

I have the Blitz's so you can rotate the housing to change the pattern of the beam, so have not had the need for a spread beam cover.

If they were going on a 4x4 that is going to see high speed dirt roads, I would go with the XGT's, simply because I think the mount would be less prone to vibration. Lens is identical.

I got them for $380 from a mate, I think they are about $400 retail.

Cheers,

[drivesafe]

Thanks Maggot4x4, I don’t know about fitting driving lights without a bull bar as Jamo mentioned but I think I will fit the full bar and not a nudge bar.

Does anybody have any ideas of cost for one and who makes it.

I saw a D3 today with a full bull bar and it look pretty good.

Cheers

[one_iota]

Hi drivesafe,

Try ARB:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

I think it is an improvement https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

It might be worth a chat with TJM to find out where they are at with their version.

[drivesafe]

Thanks one_iota, I haven’t seen an ARB bull bar in real life yet but from a few pictures that are about, in my opinion, their bull bar changes the appearance of the D3 too much.

The one I saw today was not as obtrusive but the idea is now a no go as the wife has said “no way” so back to square one.

This is a pain in the A, a new 4x4 in the driveway and I can’t play with it.

[size=24]<span style="color:red">NOT HAPPY “JANE”</span>

[disconut]

Originally posted by one_iota
Hi drivesafe,

Try ARB:

http://www.arb.com.au/Graphics/ARB/Bull_Bars/LandRover/disco.jpg

I think it is an improvement https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

It might be worth a chat with TJM to find out where they are at with their version.

Oh no! Not an Urban Assault Vehicle 8O . https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Trev.

[one_iota]

Originally posted by disconut


Oh no! Not an Urban Assault Vehicle 8O . https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Trev.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

With the Disco you get a choice of epithets and the other one is "Soft Roader"

[disconut]

Just needs the "cookie cutters" fitted. ( some times used for fishing poles).

Scruby doobie doo!

Trev.

[drivesafe]

Well it’s roof lights for me.

Although I’d like to put a bull bar on the D3, the RR is still likely to see more serious off road use so to improve on road night driving for the D3 will be roof mounted Hella 181s.

I considered the Lightforce driving lights but as roof lights, they would end up being to high.

Now, has anybody fitted roof lights to a D3 yet, I’ve checked other sites and there are a few other D3 owners contemplating roof installs but have not seen any yet to get an idea of the wiring locations.

Cheers and any ideas would be appreciated.

[Jamo]

I'm getting the ARB bar fitted Monday week, so I'll post some pics then.

I hope it looks alright. (not that I'd admit it if it doesn't!). There's too many big roos aroud here to go without. We've had a bit of a plague lately. :?

I'm told that it's quite close fitting. So much so that the UHF antenna will have to be mounted on the bumber section as the bar is too close to the car and the bonnet would hit any antenna bracket.

[drivesafe]

Hi jamo, touch wood, I’ve done about 30,000 kms of night driving in the RR and I think the lights have played a big part in not have a roo hit, so I’ll go the way of roof lights first.

I had bull bars on both my D1 and D2, didn’t have the D2 long enough to worry about roos but the D1 did 240,000 kms and I managed to hit two roos with it.

One bounced off the front with no damage but one of these dickheaded animals hopped into the side of the D1. Made a nice imprint in the front off side guard.

Both times I did not have the roof lights on, whether they would have helped or not I don’t know.

Cheers

[PCH]

[quote=drivesafe]Thanks one_iota, I haven’t seen an ARB bull bar in real life yet but from a few pictures that are about, in my opinion, their bull bar changes the appearance of the D3 too much.

The one I saw today was not as obtrusive but the idea is now a no go as the wife has said “no way” so back to square one.

This is a pain in the A, a new 4x4 in the driveway and I can’t play with it.

[size=24]<span style="color:red">NOT HAPPY “JANE”</span>

Drivesafe, do you mean the LR Brushbar option for the D3. If you do, foget it - it is rubbish. It is likely to fall off and try to wedge itself under the D3 when the bolts holding it on under the front get caught on the first bit of dirt. See below.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/01/44.jpg

ARB Bar and Winch doesn't look that good on a D3 but is practical.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/01/45.jpg

Chris

[Jamo]

I agree that lights are a major factor, but the last roo I hit was in daylight!!

It literally bounded out of the scrub straight onto the road about 1m in front of me.

I didn't even have time to react or tell the roo how I felt!

[disconut]

I have run Shoo Roo's for the last 13 years, out West, up in the NT etc. Bought the D2 and didn't bother with it, smack, got a roo at 4am going to work. $2k later it was bolted on pronto. It now sits on the Fender.

They work well.

Trev.

[Grizzly_Adams]

Don't they work via Ultrasonics?

What do dogs think of it?

[DEFENDERZOOK]

Originally posted by disconut
I have run Shoo Roo's for the last 13 years, out West, up in the NT etc. Bought the D2 and didn't bother with it, smack, got a roo at 4am going to work. $2k later it was bolted on pronto. It now sits on the Fender.

They work well.

Trev.



a lot of people would argue that these work as well as the hi-clones.....

i have no experience with either.....
(and shu-roo is a lot cheaper tha a hi-clone...)

[drivesafe]

Hi PCH, that’s a different bar again, but I’ll take your advice.

The bull bar I saw not as robust as the ARB one but still looked good, but I must admit, your pictures of the other bar have got me thinking.

This other bar may suffer from the same potential problem.

Cheers.

[drivesafe]

Hi Disconut, I have a brother-in-law in NW NSW and he has a Sho-Roo fitted to his 4x4 and swears be it.

Cheers.

[tombraider]

I've travelled across the country many times, back and forth....Mostly at night.

I've only ever tapped 1 roo and that was a nudge with the fairlead (locking up a 35" tyred Disco at 110km/h towing a camper is interesting :!: ) Hit her with the fairlead at less than 40k's.

I attribute the event to my driving lights (at the time 4 on roof, 2 on the nose) giving me ample time to see it coming through the scrub (it was 1 of 3, the other 2 got out the way).

Other than that, in 16 years of crossing the zones most likely I've never hit a roo or come close. Its the law of averages at play, Shu-Roo are almost ineffective.

Roos to the front of the vehicle have been shown to not react to the noise or from a mate of mine, he turned his on and it drew the attention of the roos on the barrier hwy rather than scare them off.

There was some testing done where a vehicle ShuRoo equipped was parked near some roos. WHen the unit was activated they did NOT react at all. This test has been repeated several times with the same conclusion.

Shu-Roo, Fuel Star, HiCLone, Microsoft..... All in the same boat!!! 8)

ShuRoos biggest performance benefit to drivers is self confidence (they believe roos arent a risk anymore) allowing them to drive at faster speeds with less "Roo Observation" and therefore less stress :twisted: :wink:

Just like people that believe that bullbars will take a roo strike at 110km/h... The dynamics of a direct strike in that situation defy a bullbar/chassis ability to withstand such an impact (unless its a very small roo). Bullbars are effective to around 60km/h full impact. Otherwise ineffective - But they inspire confidence to the driver!

Cheers
Mike
(Devils Advocate)

[Jamo]

I disagree!

Bullbars are not psychological. If you've ever hit a big roo without one and discovered the effect of having a smashed radiator a few hundred km from the nearest town then you'll know what I mean.

A bullbar may just be the thing that protects the car enough to limp home.

It may not save your car, but it may save time, money and maybe even your life!

[tombraider]

Read my post again!!!! https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

I pointed out that crash dynamics over 60km/h means.....

100Km/h + Big Roo + Centralised Hit = FUBAR, big time :!:

Your vehicle will however be limpable (is that a word? I've used it in a sentence now so yes!) if your lucky, but chassis dynamics + Roo mass at 100km/h is pretty much death to the vehicle (as well as the roo)

A glancing or off centre blow however is definately a possibility to survive with a decent bar!

My point was a large number of motorists believe their 4wd to be "much safer" with the bar to swipe roos with, when in reality its a mental thing. Lets face it, at night would you drive the Barrier Highway at 110km/h without a Bar considering the Roos lining the sides?

Cheers
Mike

[drivesafe]

I’ve managed to hit 6 roos so far and the first was by far the worst.

As posted above, I hit two in my D1.

Prior to that, I hit two in my toyota and that had a bull bar that, although damage, did manage to take the brunt of force and only left small indents in the bonnet.

Prior to that, I hit one in my Charger and that roo took out a driving light and a headlight.

But the best one was while driving a brand new Ford station wagon ( this will give you an idea of how long ago this was ) the speedo showed 85 MPH when I hit one big mother of a roo.

The bonnet opened back over the windscreen so I couldn’t see where I was going and once I finally stopped and had a look, the radiator was wrapped around the engine, the headlights were nearly pointing at one another.

The car was $4,000 new ( about 4 weeks earlier ) and there was $2,000 worth of damage. Thank god it was State Rail’s vehicle. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

I definitely have a healthy respect for what roos can do, cheers.

[rick130]

I've lost count of the roo strikes I've had in the last four years. The worst one we had was actually about ten years ago and i was doing about 130km/h when I hit the picks. I was still doing 50km/h when I hit him. It smashed the alloy bullbar on the Patrol, which bent back in and wrecked the drivers side head light, grille, bonnet and guard. At least the radiator was still Ok.

The biggest hit I've had was about four months ago. I was doing 90km/h (known Roo country and it was close to dusk) when a big Wallaroo came out of the scrub flat out. I was still doing close to 80km/h when I hit him front and centre. He pitched me a little sideways going under the back wheels as well. The only damage was a mangled front numberplate and a ding in the stone shield of the steering damper. (yes, I checked everything out when I got home) The difference this time was I have a steel bullbar on the Defender.


We fitted a Shoo Roo when we bought SWMBO's Patrol four years ago, and it isn't worth a pinch of poop. We've hit as many Roos in that as the Defender, and have a huge ding in the (alloy) bullbar, and a ding in the passenger door to show for it. Her old mans Citroen copped one in the 'A' pillar, and he was also Shoo Roo equiped.
I've played all the games with it, turning it on and off etc. right in front of them and it really has little to no effect, except for one that came closer to check it out. :wink:

Where we live, we can only travel at around 50km/h at night on the dirt, and about 70-80km/h on the bitumen as there are so many around. I've had them run into me at speeds as low as 20km/h. A bullbar is a necessity around here.

[Jamo]

I hit one big western grey 100km from here in the Subaru. I was doing 100kph and was towing a trailer. It jumped straight out of the bush onto the road in front of the car. No bar work on the car at all.

$6,500 worth of panel damage (including a new radiator) later the car was back on the road. Luckily for me the radiator was only cracked and I could still drive home.

The same car hit a Mazda 121 at 60kph (the Mazda went through a stop sign). This time the Suby had an alloy bar from SubaXtreme. The bar weas bent a little and there was some panel damage, but not even the lights were broken.

8) 8) 8)

[retiredbob]

Originally posted by drivesafe
Hi folks, thanks for the replies.

Michael2, I will be fitting a second battery but the lights are first cab off the rank for now.

The battery can be fitted with no obvious alterations so it’s a safe install.

As
Cheers all.

G'day all

I am a new owner of a D3 HSE and tow an off road caravan. I have been contacting LR Aust and a couple of dealers about installing a second battery but have not been able to get a suitable answer.

What system are you fitting/have fitted??

In my old TD5 I had a Pirahna(?) system and it worked great.

Regards

[DEFENDERZOOK]

Originally posted by retiredbob+--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(retiredbob)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-drivesafe
Hi folks, thanks for the replies.

Michael2, I will be fitting a second battery but the lights are first cab off the rank for now.

The battery can be fitted with no obvious alterations so it’s a safe install.

As
Cheers all.

G'day all

I am a new owner of a D3 HSE and tow an off road caravan. I have been contacting LR Aust and a couple of dealers about installing a second battery but have not been able to get a suitable answer.

What system are you fitting/have fitted??

In my old TD5 I had a Pirahna(?) system and it worked great.

Regards[/b][/quote]




<span style="color:blue">
go for the traxide tronics SC-40 dual charge controller........

]http://www.traxide.com.au/</span> (http://www.traxide.com.au/%5b/color)

[drivesafe]

Thanks Zook.

Hi retiredbob, give me a call on 07 5569 2557 and I can give you all the info you may need about fitting one of our units.

Cheers.

[Jamo]

drivesafe,

I had a TJM unit fitted as part of my dual battery setup (before I found this site) Would the traxide unit do a better job??

James

[drivesafe]

Hi Jamo, I don’t know that you would call it a better job.

The SC40 operates in a different way to other dual battery controllers and there is a potential problem with the D3s and ordinary dual battery controllers.

At this time LRA’s technical section is looking into it and I hope to know more in the not to distant future but it’s a good chance that a special version of the SC40 will be produced just for the D3s.

Again, more on the soon I hope.

Cheers.

[Jamo]

Originally posted by drivesafe

The SC40 operates in a different way to other dual battery controllers and there is a potential problem with the D3s and ordinary dual battery controllers.

At this time LRA’s technical section is looking into it and I hope to know more in the not to distant future but it’s a good chance that a special version of the SC40 will be produced just for the D3s.



What sort of problems??? or haven't any been outlined yet.

Just want to know in case anything happens. Youv'e got me worried now.. :? :? :?

[drivesafe]

Jamo, at this stage, until LRA finish there tests, I would not be to worried.

The problem relates to voltage differences that may have some strange operations occurring but to my knowledge, it is NOT damaging.

Again, as soon as I know more I will pass it on.

Cheers

[retiredbob]

Originally posted by drivesafe
Thanks Zook.

Hi retiredbob, give me a call on 07 5569 2557 and I can give you all the info you may need about fitting one of our units.

Cheers.

G'day Drivesafe.

Is the number Ok to call during the evening??

Regards

Bob

[drivesafe]

Hi Retiredbob, That’s fine and also on the weekends as well.

Cheers.

PS. don’t forget to mention your site name and / or that your from the site as there are discounts for AULRO site members.

[cairns_offroad]

I have Lightforce XGTs on my Cruiser and this is the third vehicle they have been on. They have done at least 150k klms still haven't blown a bulb. I would reccommend you pull the lights apart and put a dab of silcon on the wires going to the bulb as they can get caught between the retaining spring and wear through. Both my lights did this admittedly after many klms on dirt roads. Apart from that I can not fault them. They are very light, virtually bullet proof and made in Australia. I have a spread beam cover and a spot. Probably too big for roof mounting. I personally dont like roof mounts as the glare off the bonnet ruins night vision, not to mention low car parks trees etc. XGTs have a far superior mounting system to the cheaper Blitz Lightforce. I average about 8 Cape Trips per year plus touring Australia wide I see even the best most expensive metal lights rattling themseves to pieces. Cheers Rob.
http://www.cairnsoffroad.com.au
http://www.aussieat.com

[sclarke]

I think i know the problem with the D3 lights.

Years ago the Series Landys, countys and Fenders could not do more than about 55mph. So lighting was not a problem. When you saw the roo you were still withing braking distance.
Now you can travel at 110kmh and that extra speed increases your braking by some 30 meters or so. Hence the need for better lights.

So just slow down or pull 2 leads of the plugs to drop some cylinders...

Ohh shoot, i just saw a fault in my theory....
Series and any LR with drums the brakes were crap. so you would have took longer to stop....

Ohh well forget i just said all that.

Mental note to Steve. Dont hit the "Submit" button until i work out the theory....

[drivesafe]

Hi sclarke, out west, when you have to dim your lights for an oncoming vehicle that’s a way off, with these new type of lights on the D3, slowing down is not an option, it’s necessity.

Hi cairns_offroad, I take it you have a luggage roof rack and if so, this does pose a problem as the lights will be mounted directly above the windscreen.

With no luggage roof rack, a roof mount driving light set up is easy to fit so that the lights are not only far enough back so as not to shine on the bonnet, but they can also be fitted clustered in the middle of the roof so as not to light up your mirrors.

After all the years I have used them and the amount of additional safety they give you, I can’t wait to see how much better the lights will be on the D3 once I have the roof lights fitted.

Cheers.

[sclarke]

I do agree that lights are very important. its hard to adjust when you used to the bright driving lights.
Are the D3 HID? would it be worth upgrading them to a HID kit for Low beam?

[drivesafe]

Hi sclarke, before you spend the big bucks needed to buy an HID kit, see if you can get a comparison between someone’s 4x4 with good quality, high bright conventional headlights and an HID equipped 4x4.

I mean to do it when I get the chance using the my RR and the D3.

At this point I am anything but impressed, especially after last nights drive along Duck Creek Road with my wife driving the D3 behind me, all I got all night long was the lightning flash of the HIDs at every bump.

I was quite happy to keep as far a head as practicable just to get away from the lights.

Cheers.

[seqfisho]

Hi Tim,

Forgot to ask you last night what type and wattage bulbs are you running?
When I looked at them during daylight hours the buls looked like they had a blue tinge to them, or was it an optical illusion :roll:

They sure gave a great spread in the dark going up the mountain. 8O

[drivesafe]

G’day seqfisho, all my headlights and driving lights are Philips Crystal Vision 55 watt globes.

I never thought of it yesterday afternoon when you were talking about the lenses melting, they would be great in your lights and would stop the melting.

I use to run 130 watt conventional globes in the Hella 181s and over a period of time, the reflectors would end up burnt.

The Hella 181s on top of the rangy I bought new and immediately changed the 100 watt globes for the Crystal Vision 55 watt globes.

I have been running them for around 2 and 1/2 years now and I have only had to replace one of the 10 globes in that time.

As you saw last night, the light is WHITE not yellow, works well, draws half the power of conventional 100 watt globes but each Crystal Vision globe puts out the equivalent of 110 watts of light and so far seem to have a much better operating life span.

Cheers.

BTW how was your trip back down Duck Creek Road last night and how did your new lights work.

[incisor]

Originally posted by drivesafe
As you saw last night, the light is WHITE not yellow,
why so fussed on white light?

me, i find a yellowish tinge gives some much better definition to holes and ditches in the road etc most of the time than white or blue light.

[drivesafe]

I’ve found that white light make animals, particularly roos show up earlier than with yellow lights.

Cheers.

[incisor]

i usually see the glow of their eyes long before i see the beast so to speak.

are you seeing the glow of the eyes earlier or the whole animal?

[drivesafe]

The whole animal and you can usually quickly see whether it is a possom or a roo.

cheers mate.

[seqfisho]

The lights are ok and certainly good value for money, certainly picked out the toads from the rocks on the road https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
but would like to try some of those bulbs in my existing headlights, as would like some more spread to the side especially on tracks where your turning all the time as the distance vision is usless when you need to see whats around the next corner and need to get the line right for the next toad :wink: https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Would those bulbs incease the spread or just give a whiter output in the existing headlights?

[drivesafe]

Glen to be very honest, their biggest advantage is as driving light replacements. They did improve my low beam but it just made them brighter and whiter.

I’m not sure how you could improve your side illumination on low beam.

Cheers

[seqfisho]

I think I will be going down your path with 4 low profile lights on the roof on a detachable bar across the roof rails with the 2 outer ones facing to side a bit to illuminate out beside the car :wink:

[drivesafe]

Hi Glen, I don’t know what type of light you will be using but the Hella’s actually didn’t swivel far enough to the side so I filed the mounts to an angle.

I will be making a roof mount up for the D3 next week, I hope and I will take pics as I go and post them.

Cheers.

[DEFENDERZOOK]

[b]<span style="color:blue">hey guys....check out the way the spotties are mounted on the vehicle on
page 235 of the current 4wd monthly magazine.....


this is the setup i mentioned in a thread sometime time last year......
i just found a picture of it in there.....

raises the lights using hydraulics.....then drops them again for legalities....</span>

[seqfisho]

Originally posted by drivesafe
Hi Glen, I don’t know what type of light you will be using but the Hella’s actually didn’t swivel far enough to the side so I filed the mounts to an angle.

I will be making a roof mount up for the D3 next week, I hope and I will take pics as I go and post them.

Cheers.

Something cheap as Ive been known to squeeze under branches that are 6" lower than the roofline on occasions :oops: :oops: :oops: :roll:

[DEFENDERZOOK]

Originally posted by seqfisho+--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(seqfisho)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-drivesafe
Hi Glen, I don’t know what type of light you will be using but the Hella’s actually didn’t swivel far enough to the side so I filed the mounts to an angle.

I will be making a roof mount up for the D3 next week, I hope and I will take pics as I go and post them.

Cheers.

Something cheap as Ive been known to squeeze under branches that are 6" lower than the roofline on occasions :oops: :oops: :oops: :roll:[/b][/quote]


<span style="color:darkblue">have a look at the set up i mentioned above if you have a copy of the mag....</span>

[seqfisho]

[quote=drivesafe]Hi Glen, I don’t know what type of light you will be using but the Hella’s actually didn’t swivel far enough to the side so I filed the mounts to an angle.

I will be making a roof mount up for the D3 next week, I hope and I will take pics as I go and post them.

Cheers.

Something cheap as Ive been known to squeeze under branches that are 6" lower than the roofline on occasions :oops: :oops: :oops: :roll:


<span style="color:darkblue">have a look at the set up i mentioned above if you have a copy of the mag....</span>

Jan or Feb edition ZOOK?

[DEFENDERZOOK]

<span style="color:blue">feb 06</span>

[seqfisho]

I got that, will have a look 8)

Thanks ZOOK :wink:

[DEFENDERZOOK]

<span style="color:blue">if anyone has a copy and a scanner handy.......


then maybe they could post the pic for everyone to see.....?</span>

[seqfisho]

[quote=DEFENDERZOOK]<span style="color:blue">if anyone has a copy and a scanner handy.......


then maybe they could post the pic for everyone to see.....?</span>



Are you volunteering ZOOK????????

If not just hold the page up to the screen for us all to see https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[DEFENDERZOOK]

<span style="color:blue">hey...that might work....using a camera and msn chat.....</span>

[tombraider]

What legalities? :?: :?: :?:

Roof mounted lights are no longer illegal.

Cheers
Mike

[DEFENDERZOOK]

<span style="color:blue">really.....?


i will now mount the rest of mine......?</span>

[tombraider]

Yep! Really....

And as scary as it sounds you can thank J e e p for it!

There are some rules:

1. Lights must be switched for High Beam ONLY
2. Lights must have isolator switch on dash seperate to other lights on vehicle
3. Must NOT be used in residential/commercial areas.

Cheers
Mike

[DEFENDERZOOK]

<span style="color:blue">so far mine are two out of three.....



i use them all the time.....
i didnt spend all them dollars to only use them if i manage to get out of suburbia....</span>

[seqfisho]

Originally posted by tombraider
Yep! Really....

And as scary as it sounds you can thank J e e p for it!

There are some rules:

1. Lights must be switched for High Beam ONLY
2. Lights must have isolator switch on dash seperate to other lights on vehicle
3. Must NOT be used in residential/commercial areas.

Cheers
Mike

Does that apply to each state or just in SA Mike?

And why do we need to thank J**P for it?

[tombraider]

The new J ** p released in Oz with the Roof light option.

ADRs were sorted to allow the roof lights to comply at Jeeps expense!

I have been informed that it is a nationwide ADR approval and therefore makes all roof mounted lights legal.

I suggest you confirm this with the local authorities though to be on the safe side.

Cheers
Mike

[DEFENDERZOOK]

<span style="color:blue">hey tomb raider.....


i got a question for you in the general chat side of things......
(so i wouldnt hijack this thread.....)


could you possibly mosey on down and see if you can give some answers.... https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ </span>

[Bigbjorn]

The new J ** p released in Oz with the Roof light option.

ADRs were sorted to allow the roof lights to comply at Jeeps expense!

I have been informed that it is a nationwide ADR approval and therefore makes all roof mounted lights legal.

I suggest you confirm this with the local authorities though to be on the safe side.

Cheers
Mike

I had this from the Modifications section of Qld. Dept. of Transport only about three weeks ago. Roof mounted lights are now permitted. the Dept. is not in favour of such installations and did not recommend this approval. This appears to have been a political decision to allow the installation. Usage, however, is a different matter, being neither specifically permitted nor forbidden. These lights must be independently switched (not individually). They do not meet the Dept's definition of "additional headlights" which is what the Dept. calls spotlights, long range driving lights, searchlights (Hella 1503 & 1507, and Bosch SL5 are referred to as such in-house by their makers), etcetra, which must be switched through the high beam headlights. Additional headlights may be mounted with their centres no higher than the top edge of the high beam headlights, hence roof top lights not meeting the definition. The Dept. spokesman referred to the regulations covering use of high beam headlights, that is not to be used within 200 metres of another vehicle, not to annoy the driver of another vehicle, or interfere with the safe operation of another vehicle. He made the point that the driver of the other vehicle could be a stroppy copper or a pedantic Transport inspector, in which case a fine and points could apply, and possibly an "over the pits" inspection. He suggested their use be best restricted to off-road or private road usage.

[Bigbjorn]

Read my post again!!!! https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

I pointed out that crash dynamics over 60km/h means.....

100Km/h + Big Roo + Centralised Hit = FUBAR, big time :!:

Your vehicle will however be limpable (is that a word? I've used it in a sentence now so yes!) if your lucky, but chassis dynamics + Roo mass at 100km/h is pretty much death to the vehicle (as well as the roo)

A glancing or off centre blow however is definately a possibility to survive with a decent bar!

My point was a large number of motorists believe their 4wd to be "much safer" with the bar to swipe roos with, when in reality its a mental thing. Lets face it, at night would you drive the Barrier Highway at 110km/h without a Bar considering the Roos lining the sides?

Cheers
Mike

Now I have never hit a roo or anything else with the County, but I drove a million or so miles in heavy trucks outback. This advice probably does not apply to light vehicles and their less robust bullbars, but the rule with a truck is not to swerve or brake, but, if you can, hit them dead centre with the bullbar. A corner strike may bend the bar back onto a tyre. This particularly applies to cattle. Of course, if you hit an 800kg bullock with a 4wd you are in the poo, particularly if you are a long way from help.

[rick130]

I've hit more Roo's than I'd care to admit to, in several Patrols and the 'fender. Both Patrols had alloy (POS) bars, the first one wrecked the bar, drivers side headlight and mudguard. Impact speed was approx 60km/h. Our latest Patrol cleaned one up front and centre, stove the bumper in as luckily we hit him on the downward part of the hop, went under the vehicle and the drivers side rear tyre and flicked the ute sideways at approx 75km/h. Several have gone into the side, underneath, etc at various speeds, usually below 60km/h. Ironically this vehicle should've had a steel bar, but SWMBO insisted we have the alloy one, and conned the salesman into throwing it into the package as it looked better, regardless of my protests and arguments ..........:rolleyes:

The giggest hit in the Defender was a genuine 80-85km/h minimum impact speed. Dead centre, approx 50kg Roo. Wrecked my number plate, dinged my steering damper and felt like hitting a brick wall, it was a hard hit. No damage to the OE/ARB bar, mounts or chassis. I was mightily impressed. If it was an alloy bar, I would have been in deep do-do.