What are the symptoms of a worn Steering Relay?

[jedwards]

Gentlemen,
I have been focusing on my steering lately and have been making good progress, however the Relay is something I know very little about. What are the symptoms of a worn Steering Relay?

I have the steering box nice, smooth and play free. There is now no delay between moving the steering wheel and seeing that moving translate into the street arm. However in spite of that, I still have a delay in the motion of the steering arm translating into movement of the front wheels, even though I have replaced all 6 tie rod ends.

The only culprit left is the steering. Could this be causing the loss of immediate movement of the wheels?

many thanks in advance.
regards
Jeff
1953 Land Rover Series 1 80", 1963 Mercedes 190SL (work in progress), 1971 Porsche 911T (just sold)

[JDNSW]

I have a few problems with the descriptions you are using - what are "steering arm" and street arm"?

If you get someone to wiggle the steering wheel the full movement before the wheels start to move, you can then see or even feel exactly where the lost motion is occurring. If all the tie rod ends are new, check the steering box, movement of the pitman arm (the arm on the steering box) to make sure it is not moving on the shaft, check that neither the top nor bottom arms on the steering relay is moving on the shaft and that the relay itself is not moving. If the relay itself is worn, the shaft will be moving sideways in the relay body, but the arm moving on the shaft can wear the shaft so that it needs replacing.

Also check that there is no free movement of the LH steering arm on the swivel housing, as can happen if the fitted bolt is either not fitted or is in the wrong hole.

Free movement can also happen indirectly because the springs are able to move sideways in the chassis due to worn bushes, or the axle on the springs due to loose U-bolts, and make sure both the taper connection and the screw into the tube on the tie rod ends are secure. In particular, make sure that the type of tie rod end matches the type of tube - early models had the clamping on an unthreaded section, later ones had full length thread and clamping on the thread. The two types must not be mixed in a joint, as they cannot be clamped satisfactorily.

[jedwards]

Thanks for the response John, Greatly appreciated.
Apologies for the lack of the correct names in my description.
Yes, movement on the steering wheel translates into immediate movement of the pitman arm. I can check that easily as I can keep on eye on the pitman arm inside the the engine bay and still reach the steering wheel at the same time.

Unfortunately, I cannot do this with the top and bottom arms of the steering relay, or anywhere else because I cannot see those components and move the steering wheel.
I'm doing this alone but clearly that is not working, so I'll try to get someone to help me next weekend. I've pushed and pulled at everything with as much force and I can create by hand, but I can feel no movement. The tie rods are the correct shouldered version from SeriesOne Shop.

[JDNSW]

You really need a helper to find the issues - all they have to do is wiggle the steering room - even a kid can do it.

And the tie rod ends - they are the right ones, but are the tubes? (have the clamps over the shoulder area)

[jedwards]

Yes everything is nice and snug and the clamps have it all locked down tight.

regards
Jeff