View Full Version : Td5 Future
d2dave
20th March 2017, 08:32 PM
I have just got the bad news that my meticulously serviced Td5 with 220,000 km is stuffed:(
For the interim to get the vehicle back on the road, I have sourced a good (I hope) SH engine with 245,000 km, with the intention of later rebuilding the the old one.
Having just had a look through Rave I find that these cannot be bored to take an oversize piston.
Can these be re-sleeved. If not this virtually makes these engines throw away when they are worn out.
As most are now well past 200,000, all SH are getting higher in kays.
In a few years SH ones will be hitting the 300,000 plus mark, which is certainly not a good option with the labor involved, even doing it myself
So what do I/we do in a few years time?
I had plans to keep this car forever, because until now I loved it.
Disco Muppet
20th March 2017, 08:57 PM
What's wrong with the engine?!
And yes they can be oversized to 20thou.
KolbenSchmidt do the oversized pistons, there's a post on here by Psimpson7 about rebuilding a Td5 with them, MR LR recently had his rebuilt with them too and says it goes well.
rick130
20th March 2017, 09:29 PM
Should be able to sleeve the block too.
The best F/Ford engines I've seen back in the day were sleeved blocks.
Generally the sleeves have a better grain structure and so have a better surface finish when honed.
FWIW Turner's in the UK supply blocks too.
ERR 6977 Cylinder Block Casting (http://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/err-6977-cylinder-block-casting-c2x20634472)
d2dave
20th March 2017, 10:04 PM
Thanks. This is a relief as I do want to rebuild it. Problem is that it is down on compression causing my smoking problem.
Smokey Td5 (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/245306-smokey-td5.html)
Jazzman
20th March 2017, 10:35 PM
I've rebuilt my TD5 Euro 3 (16P i think) D2a engine at 180,000 kms. It had sucked in dust and was worn in cylinder 1 and 5 (3 was perfect). Apparently this is common on dusted engines. I bored mine out and fitted the oversized pistons. All is good 70,000kms down the track.
I did it myself with help from this forum and its members for about $3500. That is machining block and head, acid washing and paying someone else to rebuild the head (I sourced the parts). I did everything else. I was looked after on labour. But my head had 1 worn lifter and cam, worth having it checked.
Check out:
Land Rover Engine Parts - Cylinder heads, camshafts, pistons, bearings (http://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/)
d2dave
20th March 2017, 11:04 PM
So how did the dust get in? If this turns out to be the cause of mine I do not want it happening again.
discorevy
20th March 2017, 11:14 PM
If it has excessive blow by then it probably has been dusted (bad seal on air filter, leaking intake , or k+n type filters) , if its smoking as well as low on compression its possibly been hydraulic locked and has bent a rod , measure piston heights when you remove the head. It should normally get to 400 000 k with good maintenance.
What were the compression readings?
d2dave
20th March 2017, 11:53 PM
Hasn't been compression tested. Have used only genuine LR filters and definitely has not been hyd locked.
Roverlord off road spares
21st March 2017, 12:24 AM
I've rebuilt my TD5 Euro 3 (16P i think) D2a engine at 180,000 kms. It had sucked in dust and was worn in cylinder 1 and 5 (3 was perfect). Apparently this is common on dusted engines. I bored mine out and fitted the oversized pistons. All is good 70,000kms down the track.
70k on it already! it seemed like only yesterday you rebuilt it, you do too many miles, you need to move closer to work [wink11] or work close to home.
discorevy
21st March 2017, 12:59 AM
Thanks. This is a relief as I do want to rebuild it. Problem is that it is down on compression causing my smoking problem.
Smokey Td5 (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/245306-smokey-td5.html)
So which cylinders are down on compression? and what method did they ( I'm guessing not you ) use to check
d2dave
21st March 2017, 01:13 AM
Pressure in the crankcase.
Fluids
21st March 2017, 01:21 AM
Well, that's a ****er !! [bigsad]
Good luck with it !
Fluids
21st March 2017, 01:25 AM
Hhmmm ... that was an interesting spell checker correction ... piddleer ... Ha !
That's NOT what I typed ... :bat:
Must have offended the robot ... [bigwhistle]
d2dave
21st March 2017, 08:44 AM
Well, that's a ****er !! [bigsad]
Good luck with it !
The permagrin is no longer.
Roverlord off road spares
21st March 2017, 10:38 AM
Pressure in the crankcase.
The Pooper valve (decompression valve is not choked is it?)
just clucthing at straws
strangy
21st March 2017, 11:31 AM
Interesting to see what you see when it is pulled down.
With those and more kms on the several TD5's I've seen and had, the hone marks have been clearly visible.
I wouldn't have thrown rings at any of them.
Sure sounds like dusting/contamination.
Unless it was real hot once upon a time, that's about all that will cause an issue like this on these.
All the best with it.
For what it is worth, I'd just check the oil pump bolt, confirm the head gasket/dowels are done and keep on going with the the 2nd hand donk. Kms difference is irrelevant.
Pull the ancillaries off for spares/sale and shove the old one in the shed if you really want to hang onto it
d2dave
21st March 2017, 02:52 PM
The Pooper valve (decompression valve is not choked is it?)
just clucthing at straws
Are you talking about the black plastic thingy that is in the hose that comes from the top of the rocker cover, and is inserted into the intake between air filter and turbo?
rangieman
21st March 2017, 05:37 PM
Are you talking about the black plastic thingy that is in the hose that comes from the top of the rocker cover, and is inserted into the intake between air filter and turbo?
Not what id call a pooper valve [bigwhistle]
But Mario has a way with words[bigrolf]
Roverlord off road spares
21st March 2017, 06:51 PM
Are you talking about the black plastic thingy that is in the hose that comes from the top of the rocker cover, and is inserted into the intake between air filter and turbo?'
Yep the decompression valve, I'm not sure, but PCV valves on older cars if blocked wouldn't let engines breath and crank case pressure would build up. Worth a try to remove it and see if the pressure goes?
Only grasping at straws, just wishful thinking on your behalf
Jazzman
21st March 2017, 08:18 PM
So how did the dust get in? If this turns out to be the cause of mine I do not want it happening again.
The airbox design is terrible. The duckbill at the bottom of the airbox is a good idea in theory but when the rubber gets old and hard it simply becomes a hole to suck dust in. Granted it is on the right side of the filter but it is also directly above the front wheel along with the intake, where all the dust is. The oval tube from the guard in the engine bay to the airbox is made of a woven material and brakes down too. The air box lid doesn't seal well either. I've fitted a snorkel, sealed the duckbill, sealed the hole in the bottom of the airbox that is manufactured to be there, covered the oval tube with Sikaflex and also sealed the part where the snorkle connects through the guard with Sikaflex. I did this to be watertight too.
I now use Mahle filters or Mann filters as they both have a rib down the centre to help support it. This aids in keeping a good seal around the top edges of the air box, call me pedantic but i also use silicon spray on the air box where the filter seals to ensure it sits perfect.
Jazzman
21st March 2017, 08:30 PM
Also check out the videos on thread #5. This is what my blow by was like before the rebuild. I made a typo earlier, I rebuilt my TD5 at 295,000kms not 180,000 as previously stated.
TD5 breather pressure (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2-a/217107-td5-breather-pressure-5.html)
PAT303
21st March 2017, 09:42 PM
So how did the dust get in? If this turns out to be the cause of mine I do not want it happening again.
Not changing the filter regularly.T/D's need lots of clean air and if you don't replace the filter it blocks up causing a restriction so the filter sucks in under power unseating it and bypass. Pat
rick130
21st March 2017, 09:51 PM
Not changing the filter regularly.T/D's need lots of clean air and if you don't replace the filter it blocks up causing a restriction so the filter sucks in under power unseating it and bypass. Pat
Quite a few aftermarket panel filters just don't seal properly Pat.
I know a number of TD5 owners that have dusted engines because the filter wasn't sealing from new.
PAT303
22nd March 2017, 11:04 PM
You'd think people would check things like that Rick when they fitted them. Pat
FisherX
23rd March 2017, 09:42 AM
Does anyone else see a problem here with the diagnosis method?
Making the call on low compression based on crankcase pressure alone! And not performing a propper compression check?? Or have I missed something?
strangy
23rd March 2017, 11:46 AM
Does anyone else see a problem here with the diagnosis method?
Making the call on low compression based on crankcase pressure alone! And not performing a propper compression check?? Or have I missed something?
Indeed..but the mechanic said..[bigwhistle] and the thread will continue based on the only info available.
strangy
23rd March 2017, 12:00 PM
You'd think people would check things like that Rick when they fitted them. Pat
surprisingly easy to miss - the dodgy ones appear to fit ok, however, once processing air they tend to "pull away" from the box surround and sealing area.
As previously mentioned the D2 intake location/setup is a disgrace. IMO a correctly installed snorkel is the only worthwhile fix for dirt road/dusty travel in a D2.
Last trip in my D2 saw 700kms of dirt road in clear air. ie solo no convoy or driving in others wake. The new airfilter fitted 600km prior was essentially unuseable and needed replacement.
Same road the following year with a snorkel and sealing addressed saw the air filter essentially as new.
PAT303
25th March 2017, 12:02 AM
The position of the filter has no bearing on dust ingress,dust swirls under the bonnet on dusty roads so getting the intake up high with a RAI is the fix.
Tins
25th March 2017, 12:51 PM
Does anyone else see a problem here with the diagnosis method?
Making the call on low compression based on crankcase pressure alone! And not performing a propper compression check?? Or have I missed something?
Hard not to agree. I would definitely want, at the least, a comp test before I'd go swapping engines.
rick130
25th March 2017, 02:01 PM
Hard not to agree. I would definitely want, at the least, a comp test before I'd go swapping engines.
and a leak down test so you know exactly whether it's rings/piston or valves.
Tins
25th March 2017, 04:14 PM
The position of the filter has no bearing on dust ingress,dust swirls under the bonnet on dusty roads so getting the intake up high with a RAI is the fix.
Check out that 'Milo' thing that Roothy drives. Looks like a Donaldson trap over the windscreen. That would do it, IMO.
Keppmeister
6th April 2017, 09:58 AM
Pull the injectors and do a proper compression and leak down check for sure before going to that extreme. The results will speak for themselves
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