help - cant get the gearbox back onto the 300tdi !

[Andy130]

What am I missing here?

This is my first time trying to mate the gearbox back to the 300tdi and I just cant get it.

This is a ground up rebuild so there is nothing but the chassis and engine - so i've got plenty of room to move.

I've got two 150 mm bolts (screwed in at 4 and 8 o'clock ) with heads cut off to act as guides to help line the box up, i'm checking the gaps between the mating faces are even.

I've triple checked the alignment of the clutch and the tool continues to slip in and out of the spigot bearing like a greased scotsman.the gearbox is in neutral..so what the heck am doing wrong?

Any help greatly appreciated as I've tried 3 times over a few hours now and just cant get it.

[POD]

You need to have the gearbox in a gear (any gear) and be able to rotate the output shaft by hand as you line it up, this will rotate the input shaft to line up the clutch splines.

[Andy130]

great thanks POD - now, how do I rotate the output shaft? undo a plate at the rear?

[jboot51]

or turn the crank via the balancer

[Andy130]

sounds logical [biggrin] thanks.

[bee utey]

Lock the CDL in high on the transfer case and you can turn either of the output flanges to turn the gearbox.

[POD]

Hope you went okay, I made the brief reply before logging off. The key is that you need everything in gear all the way through so that when you rotate the output shaft at the drive flange, the input shaft will rotate so the clutch splines can line up. Gearbox in gear, transfer in gear, diff lock in.

[Andy130]

Hope you went okay, I made the brief reply before logging off. The key is that you need everything in gear all the way through so that when you rotate the output shaft at the drive flange, the input shaft will rotate so the clutch splines can line up. Gearbox in gear, transfer in gear, diff lock in.

thanks POD, went just fine mate. Only took about 20 minutes once I knew what I was doing wrong :-) I was on my own so I used a g-clamp on each side once I knew it was mated and lined up too - just to close that last 10mm.

[Michael2]

I know it's done now, but I'll just add this in case anyone uses this post for future reference.

You can sometimes end up with the dowel in the bell housing matching a dowel on the engine, so just remove one of them, otherwise you'll be almost in and wonder why it won't budge the last 5mm.

[jimr1]

I know it's done now, but I'll just add this in case anyone uses this post for future reference.

You can sometimes end up with the dowel in the bell housing matching a dowel on the engine, so just remove one of them, otherwise you'll be almost in and wonder why it won't budge the last 5mm.

I've been there and done that , I took a while to work out why it wouldn't go that last 15mm or what ever the gap . There was a lot of swearing and cursing . All the time it was my fault , big relief once found the problem easy fix after that !!..Jim

[rangieman]

I know it's done now, but I'll just add this in case anyone uses this post for future reference.

You can sometimes end up with the dowel in the bell housing matching a dowel on the engine, so just remove one of them, otherwise you'll be almost in and wonder why it won't budge the last 5mm.
X2 Yes i have had this once in a life time was enough[bigsad]
The time that occurred i was swapping a RRC 3.5 out for a 4.4 .
So really it should not be a problem with the orig motor and box going back in[bighmmm]