Gearbox D3 box Not changing up or down when cold only

[NavyDiver]

My 2005 D3 gearbox was changed to a 'new' one about 100,000 km ago. I had noted a reluctance to change up when driving off in the morning a few times previously after new box was fitted. Now it is much more reluctant.

Almost only when engine is completely cool and resolves and works after a few KM. Nice Gents at Ritta tested last week and found Zero error codes and did not see the issue. It had been only occurring a few times per month but seem daily now. I have seen it once or twice in the afternoon after it has been sitting for time but this is rare.

It does have a new pan and has had some oil changed at about 80,000 km. This is not the shudder issue.

Any thought or suggestions welcome.

[cafe latte]

Is it the correct oil and when was it last changed?
Chris

[NavyDiver]

Is it the correct oil and when was it last changed?
Chris
Hi Chris
New gearbox was installed by Ritta, They also replaced the gear box oil pan and added the new oil. I'd be a bit surprised if that was the issue. As mentioned I had seen it just very rarely inside 50,000km on the new box before the warranty on it expired. 350,000 + on my clock now and only about 100,000 on the gearbox. I have been pretty generous/big on maintenance and fixing issues on it.

Today it was very sticky- no gear change at all before lunch without using command shift. I am looking I guess for the Brains Trust ( you gents) thoughts or suggestions. No error codes at all today.

[cafe latte]

So you have 100,000km on the gearbox oil?
If so replace it and see if it helps.
Chris

[NavyDiver]

So you have 100,000km on the gearbox oil?
If so replace it and see if it helps.
Chris

Will do.Oddly not one issue today, Perfect manors! I hate faults I cannot replicate. Nice to note few or no others seeing this. Lucky me

[justinc]

It is possibly a mechatronics issue as it seems to be getting the correct commands from the engine ie no faults recorded. Was your original mechatronics ( valve body) swapped into the replacement trans or was it a whole reco exchange transmission unit?

Jc

[discorevy]

If you have access to live data , keep an eye on engine oil temp , trans temp and coolant temp, if one of those sensors plays up it won't show a code but it can cause those symptoms, I did one a couple of weeks ago that was the engine oil temp sensor . trans will hold gears and keep torque converter unlocked until it thinks its warmed up enough .

[discorevy]

It is possibly a mechatronics issue as it seems to be getting the correct commands from the engine ie no faults recorded. Was your original mechatronics ( valve body) swapped into the replacement trans or was it a whole reco exchange transmission unit?

Jc


^^^that too , Justin do you think if one or all eds solonoids were showing abnormally low adaption pressures it could point to a leaking separator plate seal?, also have you had any luck with recon torque converters
Cheers

[justinc]

Adaption pressures are also indicative of driving style ( over a period), frequency of or lack of servicing and clutch wear rates... hard to use them as an indicator because of those reasons... best thing is to go back to the basics and pull yhe pan to inspect the filter and amount of / type of material in the pan/ magnets. And yes if caught early enough a reco converter can ' save' a transmission. Have done so on a few occasions.

Jc

[DiscoMick]

If there is a filter inside the gearbox, make sure it is changed regularly, as a dirty filter can block up the oil flow.

[NavyDiver]

Oil flushed and Changed. Old oil was in good condition which had me thinking my issue might not be solved. Gear Changes Saturday and Sunday worked flawlessly. Today was not the same story. A&B automatics offered about 5.5k for a reconditioned with warranty. Ritta is also getting me some prices.

Question of law of diminishing returns is crossing my mind.

[winaje]

...A&B automatics offered about 5.5k for a reconditioned with warranty...
Is that with a new torque converter and including fitment with the correct oil and your steel pan?

[NavyDiver]

Is that with a new torque converter and including fitment with the correct oil and your steel pan?

I would have to take it to them to firm up details. I would want to keep my pan as paying for a 3rd one would be silly. I clearly was silly for not keeping the pan of my first box change. Doh
Not sure if the new (two day old) oil in my box could be used with out people getting fussy about warranty as well.

Looks like my car is worth about 10k or so. Not one for sale on car sales... had close to my 350,000+km and several got down to the 10 ish mark.

At a guess parts ( my toys) might be worth more than the whole car! Bull bar. Roof rack, long range tank, rock sliders, spare set of 17 inch rims with some meaty MT, LLAMS and a bit more of the it might be of interest. Changed the radiator with the gear box last time as well. None of the D3s for sale have any or many of the extra bits on mine.

I have done so much to it to keep it in shape for off road fun but now have to ask myself is it worth it.

My permagrin is grimacing
c'est la vie

[PeterOZ]

cost of repairs vs cost of a newer vehcile. You can fund a lot of repairs and keep the vehcile you like and know.

I have a 2007 D3 and fitted a newish donk 18 months ago. I have 225,000 on the clock now, about 25,000 on the new ish engine. At same stage the ZF will go "opps well that's me for the day! and I will have to fork out for a fully recon transmission.

I'm fitting new airstruts over Christmas break and love my D3 so will keep it running as long as I can. Body and interior are still very good.

Fix the trans / get a fully recon one and get that permagrin going again. You know you want to! [biggrin]

[BobD]

Fix the trans / get a fully recon one and get that permagrin going again. You know you want to! [biggrin]

I'm with you Peter. Much cheaper to repair than go through all that depreciation and cost of add on parts etc! I have been in the same boat with a lot of expensive repairs after about 200,000km but the car is worth nothing (lots and lots of off road, gravel and rock damage and pin stripes) so it is much cheaper to pay to keep it reliable. I get some repairs done preemptively, which costs more but should keep the car going on remote trips.

My gearbox is fully drained around once every 18 months or usually before the next trip and that is going very well so far. I am told by my auto trans expert that they don't suddenly fail and give plenty of warning of impending doom so I am hoping that a gearbox failure won't leave me stranded where I can't get reasonable flat bed access to get it repaired.

[NavyDiver]

New box is close to 15k- the current one was new and half that price- Ouch. Inflation plus none in Australia. If I change it would be with the nice gent at the ZF place in Dandenong

Did find a few fault codes tonight, The dreaded Brake switch and a code suggesting foot on brake and accelerator at the same time- Wasn't me so I assume it related to the faulty switch.
Brake light globes is out! The rotten incandescent globes formally in my brake lights used to cause me hell before I put LED in. One LED out which again give me a possibility.

One other interesting note to the gear change I found, It does change at 4.5k revs. When every thing is working and driving in my usual relaxed style changes are at about 2-2.5k revs.

Brake light replacement ordered. New brake switch in next week before I cane my permagin.

[PeterOZ]

I'm with you Peter. Much cheaper to repair than go through all that depreciation and cost of add on parts etc! I have been in the same boat with a lot of expensive repairs after about 200,000km but the car is worth nothing (lots and lots of off road, gravel and rock damage and pin stripes) so it is much cheaper to pay to keep it reliable. I get some repairs done preemptively, which costs more but should keep the car going on remote trips.

My gearbox is fully drained around once every 18 months or usually before the next trip and that is going very well so far. I am told by my auto trans expert that they don't suddenly fail and give plenty of warning of impending doom so I am hoping that a gearbox failure won't leave me stranded where I can't get reasonable flat bed access to get it repaired.


mate,
think mine is still worth a few bob, no pun [biggrin][bigwhistle]

I can't afford a new one or even a low km D4 though do know of one with 70,000 coming on the market later this year. Still far too much for my pocket. Sounds like you have some good trips, I'm, not so adventurous these days.

Im in the SEQLRD group and off to Double Island point on saturday so hope it behaves itself.

cheers
P

[PeterOZ]

New box is close to 15k- the current one was new and half that price- Ouch. Inflation plus none in Australia. If I change it would be with the nice gent at the ZF place in Dandenong

Did find a few fault codes tonight, The dreaded Brake switch and a code suggesting foot on brake and accelerator at the same time- Wasn't me so I assume it related to the faulty switch.
Brake light globes is out! The rotten incandescent globes formally in my brake lights used to cause me hell before I put LED in. One LED out which again give me a possibility.

One other interesting note to the gear change I found, It does change at 4.5k revs. When every thing is working and driving in my usual relaxed style changes are at about 2-2.5k revs.

Brake light replacement ordered. New brake switch in next week before I cane my permagin.

was getting the HDC faults and going into limp mode, suspencted the brake light switch so swapped it out. I did find some threads while googling suggesting that the standard incandescent globes are actually not a standard globe as fitted to our Discos but have a higher specced filiment. I had put SCA ion a couple of times and it does not like them at all, they blow quite quickly. Pulsing of the brake cct is the reason from what I can figure out.


Would be nice to know the part number for the correct globes as not even local dealer knows! What LED globes are you using? Straight swap out or did you have to do mods to trick the pulse sensor?

cheers
P

[NavyDiver]

was getting the HDC faults and going into limp mode, suspected the brake light switch so swapped it out. I did find some threads while googling suggesting that the standard incandescent globes are actually not a standard globe as fitted to our Discos but have a higher specced filiment. I had put SCA ion a couple of times and it does not like them at all, they blow quite quickly. Pulsing of the brake cct is the reason from what I can figure out.


Would be nice to know the part number for the correct globes as not even local dealer knows! What LED globes are you using? Straight swap out or did you have to do mods to trick the pulse sensor?

cheers
P
It is a straight swap for brake, tail and reversing lights. I will double check my Blinkers. I did not use any thing else with mine and everything worked perfectly and has for five years. HDC faults and going into limp mode over a light globe is a PITA. One of a few items I really do not like but it is easily avoidable with LED globes.

Rich is the Guru. My thread from 5 years ago which fixed multiple repeated faults in my Disco (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/145750-d3-led-rear-lights-brake-tail-blinker.html) The faults then did not include gear box but give the wide variety of faults induced by a blown brake light globe or the switch I will replace mine again to see.

Going to Bright lights here this morning. I will post part numbers. Some of the links in the 5 year old thread show parts no longer available. The LED globes were the best change I made to mine bar none. Noted a tonne on ebay but as pointed out at the end of the old thread some types are not suitable.

[PeterOZ]

It is a straight swap for brake, tail and reversing lights. I will double check my Blinkers. I did not use any thing else with mine and everything worked perfectly and has for five years. HDC faults and going into limp mode over a light globe is a PITA. One of a few items I really do not like but it is easily avoidable with LED globes.

Rich is the Guru. My thread from 5 years ago which fixed multiple repeated faults in my Disco (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/145750-d3-led-rear-lights-brake-tail-blinker.html) The faults then did not include gear box but give the wide variety of faults induced by a blown brake light globe or the switch I will replace mine again to see.

Going to Bright lights here this morning. I will post part numbers. Some of the links in the 5 year old thread show parts no longer available. The LED globes were the best change I made to mine bar none. Noted a tonne on ebay but as pointed out at the end of the old thread some types are not suitable.

That would be good to get those P/Ns mate, thank you. Ive decided not to do the Double Island Point trip which is actually tomorrow as thought of Easter traffic out of Brisbane plus a zillion bogans in hiluxes everywhere does not appeal.

I'll stay home and build model RC planes instead.

cheers
P

[NavyDiver]

That would be good to get those P/Ns mate, thank you. Ive decided not to do the Double Island Point trip which is actually tomorrow as thought of Easter traffic out of Brisbane plus a zillion bogans in hiluxes everywhere does not appeal.

I'll stay home and build model RC planes instead.

cheers
P
Brake/ tail lights
1157LEdP21/2wphillipsLEd from Autobarn comes in a pack of 2. 12 year warranty $54.99
or BAY15D from Bright lights (http://brightlightautoparts.com.au/online-shop#!/1PC-BAY15D-12V-27-SMD-CANBUS/p/63848670)

BAY15S fit everything (http://brightlightautoparts.com.au/online-shop#!/BAU15S-REPLACEMENT/c/18553011/offset=0&sort=priceAsc) else but as per Richs comment you need a resistor for the LED on the indicators. A two pack Load resistors Part LR12/2 is avaible at Autobarn and other places

Hope the RC plane is fun

[NavyDiver]

You gents are correct. Very happily keeping my Disco 3 and back being more than confident it will be more than 1/2 a million kilometres before I start looking for a replacement.


Five years ago I solved a lot of occasional problems and faults by putting LED lights in the stop lights! Nice gents from Ritta mentioned in passing a failed brake light globe was replaced at the last service. My ears pricked up but brain must have been in snooze mode. My 5 year old LED brake light globe was replaced with OEM type which my car chews up in sub 3 months and then sulks about with several types of odd and unlinked faults.


Re reading my five year old post in the LED lights clicked my brain back into gear. I had noted gear box issues due to the blow brake light. Replaced all LED globes and I cannot fault anything again. I may have been a sook myself by blaming the gear box but I have nice clean gear box oil now!

Interestingly while two incandescent brake light globes installed less than a month ago had both blown, None of the other rear incandescent globes had failed at all.

Nicest bit is the LED globes now in the back of my car as brake lights have a 12 year warranty.

I did replace all the other globes with LED this time. Load resistors needed on indicators

My Permargin back in place[bigsmile1]

[DiscoJeffster]

What is with a car that has a dependency on the frigging brake light globes to make the gearbox work? I love my D but wow, sometimes I do wonder.

[NavyDiver]

What is with a car that has a dependency on the frigging brake light globes to make the gearbox work? I love my D but wow, sometimes I do wonder.

Fully agree. Thankfully it is easy to fix IF you know the problem. Noted a number of odd faults being reported in D4s on the fourm. I wonder if they might have a realated type problem. They have LED globes already of course. My brake switch was like many D3 owners another significant input to my car sulking. Again a easy fix.

I wonder if mine was dumped by its first owner due to its many mysterious faults almost 10 years ago. It was traded in to a local Landrover dealer who sent it to auction where I got it. I assume sent to auction rather than sale by them to avoid dealing with a buyer coming back consistently with faults they were unable to find.[smilebigeye][smilebigeye][smilebigeye]

Finding a problem we can fix is not drama. Having a fault which such as the reason for this thread my gearbox can coast a lot of money $5-15k was the quotes for a gear box which is probably not needed.

It is newer cars as it is not just our discos with odd electrical faults. A mate with a very pricey 4wd is a total lemon as no one can find why it is stuffed! family members with a holden have had several problems. Ying and Yang (http://inthedriversseatwithozzie.com/2016/02/diagnose-the-9-most-common-new-car-electrical-problems/)