diff lock light

[thomson]

I have tried with out success to get a wiring dia for the Perentie .My diff lock light does not go on . it has one blue /black wire going to the switch ,which does not have voltage ,motoring running or stopped , and does not have an earth . I have tried to track it back to the fuse panel , no luck .Does anybody out there know the system . thanks Peter

[Phil B]

Have a look on the REMLR web site in the "library".
All the wiring diagrams are there.

Good luck!

[Homestar]

Hi Peter, the Diff lock on an LT95 gearbox is vacuum actuated so engine must be running to engage it. The actuator is located on the RHS of the box - it looks like an overgrown vac advance unit off a distributor. The switch which activates the light is directly above this unit - if you find it, you'll see what I mean.

Check to make sure you have vacuum at the actuator and that the diff lock is actually engaging. I am assuming (but not sure) that the switch would switch the B+ supply, so with the ignition on, you should have one side of the switch with 12 volts on it, and the other side should come alive when the diff lock is engaged (engine running).

My first thought is maybe the diff lock isn't actually engaging - I have had that issue on my of my LT95 boxes before.

Cheers.

[weeds]

My guess is the wires would run back the to vacuum switch on the dash or maybe a switch on the gearbox.....it would more than likely be fused with all the other dash lights as I don't recall the diff lock being on its own circuit.

[thomson]

I have traced the black blue light to the dash warning light module , tested the lamp OK , but it does not seem to be getting power , it seems to me the whole module is powered and each lamp supplies the earth . looking at the dia it says something called the Volt BD relay gives the power , what is this relay and were is it?

[thomson]

On further trouble shooting it looks to me that power { from where I don,t know} flows though the dash light and finds an earth through the switch .On the back of my light module the printed circuit is very untidy .I tried to find a new one ,without success . So I found a instrument shop that says they can replace the circuit .If anybody has a second hand light module , please raise your hand.

[rar110]

Mm. I think I still have one. I'll check.

[thomson]

well after ringing 3 landrover spares people and being told , you cannot get anything new .I was on my way to an instrument shop to have a new printed circuit board made ,and I called into T R Spares in Padstow . He pulled out his old micro fish and found the part number (AEU2721) for the printed circuit board , and will have the part for me tomorrow and as long as it works with the Perentie extended display I hope Iam in buisness.

[Bearman]

well after ringing 3 landrover spares people and being told , you cannot get anything new .I was on my way to an instrument shop to have a new printed circuit board made ,and I called into T R Spares in Padstow . He pulled out his old micro fish and found the part number (AEU2721) for the printed circuit board , and will have the part for me tomorrow and as long as it works with the Perentie extended display I hope Iam in buisness.

Sorry, a bit late coming into this but the lamp or bulb should have power coming through it all the time when the ignition is on. When you engage the centre diff lock it completes the circuit to an earth lead that bolts to the transfer case from one terminal on the switch on the vacuum actuator. Pull the bulb out of the pc board and check if there is voltage on one side of it. If there is none then pull the connector out of the complete pc board and sandpaper the contacts and try again. If you now have power at the bulb and still no light when engaged it is either the switch or the earth lead. With a multimeter check the continuity of the switch when engaged and disengaged. You can then narrow it down to the switch or the lead. Are you sure it is actually engaging 4wd when you pull the switch - if not that would explain why no light. Could be the vacuum actuator is stuffed and why the light is not working. The switched do stuff up occasionally. Hope this helps. Brian

[thomson]

With the switch removed I can see the arm move when you pull the knob , do you know where the power comes from ? I hope I do not need it now I have the circuit board coming but I have found a replacement for the light assy part number AMR2628 if you go onto paddock spares site and type in that number you will see it .Your suggestion of takeing the lamp out and checking for power/ earth is a good one and would have save me a lot of time and a better understanding of the system
Sorry, a bit late coming into this but the lamp or bulb should have power coming through it all the time when the ignition is on. When you engage the centre diff lock it completes the circuit to an earth lead that bolts to the transfer case from one terminal on the switch on the vacuum actuator. Pull the bulb out of the pc board and check if there is voltage on one side of it. If there is none then pull the connector out of the complete pc board and sandpaper the contacts and try again. If you now have power at the bulb and still no light when engaged it is either the switch or the earth lead. With a multimeter check the continuity of the switch when engaged and disengaged. You can then narrow it down to the switch or the lead. Are you sure it is actually engaging 4wd when you pull the switch - if not that would explain why no light. Could be the vacuum actuator is stuffed and why the light is not working. The switched do stuff up occasionally. Hope this helps. Brian

[thomson]

Well the light comes on when I pull the knob ,and with the switch removed I can see the arm move forward , BUT if I jack up the front of the truck with the knob in and no light I cannot turn the front wheel while it is in gear . Iam new to this 4 wheel drive stuff ,but I would have thought that with the knob in I would have had the rear diff connected to the motor but the front free to spin . am I missing something or is the truck in 4 wheel drive all the time ,meaning something is wrong with the disconnect When I was fitting the new diaphragm the sliding gear was Forward which I thought would mean it was out of 4 wheel drive???. s
With the switch removed I can see the arm move when you pull the knob , do you know where the power comes from ? I hope I do not need it now I have the circuit board coming but I have found a replacement for the light assy part number AMR2628 if you go onto paddock spares site and type in that number you will see it .Your suggestion of takeing the lamp out and checking for power/ earth is a good one and would have save me a lot of time and a better understanding of the system

[thomson]

Well the light works with the knob pulled ,and with the switch removed I can see the arm move forward , BUT with the front wheels in the air and the knob in I cannot turn the front wheels. Iam new to this 4 wheel drive stuff but I would have thought with the disconnect in the motor would be connected to the rear wheels but the front free to spin Am I missing something or is something wrong with the disconnect . when I was fitting the new diaphragm the sliding gear was forward

[Bearman]

Well the light works with the knob pulled ,and with the switch removed I can see the arm move forward , BUT with the front wheels in the air and the knob in I cannot turn the front wheels. Iam new to this 4 wheel drive stuff but I would have thought with the disconnect in the motor would be connected to the rear wheels but the front free to spin Am I missing something or is something wrong with the disconnect . when I was fitting the new diaphragm the sliding gear was forward

These are a full time 4wd system and power goes to both front and rear axles all the time via a centre differential in the transfer case to compensate for "wind up" between the front and rear drive shafts when you turn corners etc. When you pull the knob it moves a sliding collar which is on the centre diff onto the front drive shaft so both front and rear diffs turn at the same speed and you have proper 4wd. You say the light now comes on when you pull the knob as it should. If you have both front wheels off the ground and a normal "open" front diff when you turn one front wheel the other one should turn in the opposite direction. If you have a locker in the front diff that won't happen and you will have to put the transfer lever into the neutral position for the front wheels to both turn in the same direction.
Have you fitted a new vacuum actuator recently? If so did you locate the yoke into the sliding collar properly when you fitted it - forward on the "sliding gear" is the engaged position.

[thomson]

When I pulled the diaphragm it looked to me that the slider was in the forward position ,if this is so you are telling me the unit failed in 4 wheel drive ??. I did try to be careful in the refitting of the new unit to make sure the fork went into the slider , but mistakes do happen . So how do I test to see if it is in 4 or 2 wheel drive .So am I correct in thinking that with 4 wheels in the air ,with the light out the front wheels would seem to be turning slower than the rear .With the light on all 4 would seem to be doing the same speed ???.

[Bearman]

When I pulled the diaphragm it looked to me that the slider was in the forward position ,if this is so you are telling me the unit failed in 4 wheel drive ??. I did try to be careful in the refitting of the new unit to make sure the fork went into the slider , but mistakes do happen . So how do I test to see if it is in 4 or 2 wheel drive .

The forward position is "locked". I have described in my previous post how to check if it is locking/unlocking.

[thomson]

Well after fitting a new diaphragm and a new light module ,I have found that my car has been in locked 4 wheel mode . How long I do not know as I only bought the truck a short time ago . I hope no damage has been done to it in this time .The steering loads have decreased quite a lot , I had thought the steering was heavy but reading threads about people fitting power steering , I thought it must have been normal. Anyway the camping set up is finished in the back , and hope to head off to the cape in late April

[steveG]

Good to hear you've got it sorted, and thanks for reporting back with the outcome.

Steve

[dranoweb]

Don't drive it on bitumen with the diff lock on.

You will break things... expensive things.

[Vern]

Don't drive it on bitumen with the diff lock on.

You will break things... expensive things.
A bit late for that!

[dranoweb]

It would seem so...