Gap Diagnostic IID Tool Questions

[Mike57]

Hi all

I purchased the Gap Diagnostic IID tool to use with my Discovery 4, 2014 model. On the weekend I set it up by activating it and was able to read and clear fault codes. Having got that far I decided to read the rest of the manual before doing anything else. This is where I am now a little unsure about things.

I got the tool for fault diagnosis but also so that I could reset the vehicle height to stay raised when off road above the 50 kph (or whatever the speed is at which it lowers). I got caught out doing the Simpson a few years ago when I could not crest two of the larger dunes (East to West) due to the car lowering just before the top. The other Disco I was with had the same problem, and so too did another Disco owner that we spoke to at Mt Dare, so the answer I thought was to use the Gap tool to reset the height and also have a diagnostic tool in the process.

Now the part I am confused about. I have not experimented with this yet so I am after some advice first.

According to my reading of the instructions I can reset the height for all wheels at the same time. I can do this for access, normal or off road height. OK so I keep reading and here are my questions (BTW I am interstate right now so I can't check any of this for myself):



I assume that to maintain a raised vehicle at more than 50kph I will need to raise the "normal" height to be equivalent to off road height - is that correct?
Will the vehicle stay in normal height in low range. I am pretty sure that selecting low range will also select off road height but can you then select normal height again and will it stay there?
Now if I have increased the normal height have I also raised the access and off road height by the same amount?
In order to decide how many increments to raise the vehicle do I need to use the tape measure to determine what height I want and how many units that equates to?
What is a safe amount to raise the normal height by so that I won't top out the suspension if say I get grounded and the car goes into extended mode (assuming that changing the normal height impacts the other heights as well)


Advice on the procedure from anyone who has used the Gap tool for this purpose would be really appreciated. Many thanks

Mike

[LandyAndy]

Great question.
I know a few people who will benefit from this info.
Thanks
Andrew

[Ferret]

I assume that to maintain a raised vehicle at more than 50kph I will need to raise the "normal" height to be equivalent to off road height - is that correct?



Will the vehicle stay in normal height in low range. I am pretty sure that selecting low range will also select off road height but can you then select normal height again and will it stay there?
Now if I have increased the normal height have I also raised the access and off road height by the same amount?
In order to decide how many increments to raise the vehicle do I need to use the tape measure to determine what height I want and how many units that equates to?
What is a safe amount to raise the normal height by so that I won't top out the suspension if say I get grounded and the car goes into extended mode (assuming that changing the normal height impacts the other heights as well)


Advice on the procedure from anyone who has used the Gap tool for this purpose would be really appreciated. Many thanks

Mike

What you use the tool for is to change the height calibration, not the specifically the height as such. That is still controlled by the vehicle.

For instance if you change the height calibration by +50mm, your normal on road height will be recalibrated +50mm higher than before. Once the vehicle detects it is now below its normal on road height calibration it will raise itself an additional +50mm. That additional +50mm is now equivalent to off road height but because the vehicle thinks it is at on road height it will not lower if you exceed 50k/hr

Because all you do is change the height calibration (or height off set) every thing works the same as before. So if you go into off road height it will now be at off road height plus (or minus) the off set you have choosen with the IID tool but it will still lower automatically at 50k/hr.

For safety reason you can not choose greater than +50mm off set.

[The Mighty Range Rover]

Hi Mike, i have D3 and i frequently use the IID tool. Your first step should be to email GAP and ask if you can have access to the BETA software. I think they just ask for a simple yes i agree to some terms (beta use is potentially unstable or buggy etc), then plug your tool into your computer and download the installer from their website.

What this does is give you access to a much better height control system, rather than just pushing buttons up or down you can save profiles with names with certain offsets. If you look at the attached pictures you can see it is much better to use.

Basically my sand profile is +40mm above standard height at all times, basically meaning all other height modes (Access, normal, offroad etc) are at +40mm. I drove on fraser island with the car in this mode for a week and only experienced one problem, i got caught on a root and the car wanted to go into extended mode, which then triggered a minor (amber light) suspension fault. Simply cleared it and moved on. I think the fault was caused because the car tried to go into extended mode but reached the height limit for the sensors and triggered the fault. It works fine in low range, if you don't want the height of extended mode (definitely not for high speed driving) just put it back into normal once you change.

Plus it gives quick access to height settings, so you can select extended or bump stop modes from a separate menu (see second picture)

Haven't had any dramas with the BETA software yet.
121138121139
Hope this helps!

[letherm]

What this does is give you access to a much better height control system, rather than just pushing buttons up or down you can save profiles with names with certain offsets. If you look at the attached pictures you can see it is much better to use.

121138121139


These pictures are the same as in the current user guide dated 2016-12-12. So the facility may now be live rather than beta if the user guide shows it to be so.

I have written to GAP today to get some additional answers about this very topic. My need is to have a quick way to drop down as low as possible to get SWMBO into or out of the car and then raise back to normal road height to drive away. From what I see you may need to reset the height as per picture 1 and then enable it as per picture 2. I raised simply using go down to bump stops for maximum access height drop which would mean simply pressing normal height to get back to road height quickly. May be a solution. Looking at this and LLAMS but yet to decide.

Martin

[Ferret]

I think from a convenience point of view, if you have a need to frequently and quickly adjust height as in the scenario you outlined then LAMS is the way to go.

[letherm]

Here is the Q & A result from talking to Patrick at GAP. I have highlighted Patrick's responses in blue. The pages I speak about are the diagram screenshots shown in previous posts.

Reading the instruction manual, this page (1st screenshot) suggests that I can set three heights and effectively use Setting 3 as Access Height. You can set anyone of the 3 settings to your liking, this is just an example with titles I put in.

From my reading if I chose Setting 3 to be say 40mm lower than standard, every other height (normal and off road) would also be
40mm lower than the default. Correct. One must understand that if the standard height is lowered too much, selecting the access height will make the car reach bumpstops thus triggering the extended more (rasing the car...) since the system believe the vehicle is grounded. Adjustments is necessary to get it to the right spot so that extended doesnt trigger.

Conversely, if I set Off Road height 50mm higher the same principal applies, ie access height and normal height would be 50mm higher than default. Is this correct? Yes.

This page (2nd screenshot) seems to be where I would be doing the actual initiation of choosing access or normal mode when I want to physically change height. This actually replicates the car height buttons with the additions of the lowering to bump which is exclusive to us. If for example you cannot adjust the car low enough for your needs using the height function, lowering to bump is an option.

There are 2 solutions as you already noticed:
1. How do I retain normal default height to drive to my destination and then change to adjusted access height without a two-step process? It seems to me that I would need to change to access height first as per diagram 1 and then effect the change via diagram 2 and then reverse the process to get back to normal default height. Of course I am probably misunderstanding how this all works .

-Height screen--Select My Access height, click on program
-Press on the lowering button of the suspension and wait for the car to lower. No need to enter the height control screen.
-Pick up your wife
-Height screen--Select Default
-Drive the car, it will raise itself up automatically

2. Is there any reason then that I cannot leave the heights as normal and simply select option 3 and drop down to bump stops for maximum safe lowering of the car?

Or, if you need to lower it more:

-Height control screen--Select lowering to bump (button 3)
-Pick up your wife
-Height control screen--Standard height (button 2)

Both options can be started a few meters from your wife location to speed things up.

Hope this helps, I just need to clarify the 50 kph lowering issue.

Martin

[Ferret]

To achieve what you want you pretty much need the IID tool permanently plugged in unless you want to fiddle about with it all the time.

Ask GAP if they would recommend you leave the IID tool plugged in permanently.

From the IID manual


2.8.6 Disconnecting the IIDTool
The IIDTool was not designed to remain permanently connected to the OBDII port of the vehicle. Disconnect the IIDTool after each use.

[The Mighty Range Rover]

Hope this helps, I just need to clarify the 50 kph lowering issue.

Martin

Can confirm, definitely does not lower if you set a high offset!

[letherm]

To achieve what you want you pretty much need the IID tool permanently plugged in unless you want to fiddle about with it all the time.

Ask GAP if they would recommend you leave the IID tool plugged in permanently.

From the IID manual

Yes, I saw that and asked the question. They do not recommend it. It's not because of inherent problems as such but more out of caution. This is from post 20 in this link by LRD414 which explains why.

I also have Llams and an iiD tool which I leave plugged in. The tool is ok to leave plugged in so long as you disconnect the phone app. If you just turn off with app connected it can keep vehicle ECUs awake causing battery drain. This could happen if you've been running some live values on the phone app and forget about it but it's not a show stopper if the vehicle is started again within a reasonably short period. I did read a note from Patrick of Gap that they were fixing the issue but don't know if that's now done or in beta testing.

iid tool (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/247185-iid-tool.html)

As you say, the other option is to plug it in before use which Patrick from GAP suggested as per my previous post. As he said, you can drive with it installed so not an issue from that point of view. It is actually quite a viable solution as I can select down to bump stops with a single click which takes the car as low as physically possible which is what I want.

It's the old Caveat Emptor - buyer beware. I'm aware and prepared to accept the possible risk of me forgetting to stop the app.

Martin

[letherm]

Can confirm, definitely does not lower if you set a high offset!

Reply from Patrick at GAP.

Thanks for the details. We are aware of theAustralian roads. In which case, you can raise the standard height to itsmaximum allowed increase which will bring you close to the Offroad height. Itwill however be a little lower depending on the actual vehicle height sensorscalibrations which account for mechanical tolerances. Generally, on a D4, wesee a possible increase of around 40 mm.

We have many customers using our tools forthis purpose and so far so good. Pretty sure someone on Aulro does it.

Martin

[letherm]

Can confirm, definitely does not lower if you set a high offset!

How do you set that up? Did you change Normal as Patrick suggested, Off Road or create a special setting?

Martin

[Ferret]

It's the old Caveat Emptor - buyer beware. I'm aware and prepared to accept the possible risk of me forgetting to stop the app.

Then be aware, when plugged in it will protrude into the foot well around your right foot, may interfere with the operation of the pedals while you drive or you may cause damage to the OBD2 port / IID if you accidently knock it getting in or out of the vehicle. This is the case with the D4, other models might be different.

The potential problem can be overcome by sourcing a right angle connector cable to remove the unit from the foot well space.

[letherm]

Then be aware, when plugged in it will protrude into the foot well around your right foot, may interfere with the operation of the pedals while you drive or you may cause damage to the OBD2 port / IID if you accidently knock it getting in or out of the vehicle. This is the case with the D4, other models might be different.

The potential problem can be overcome by sourcing a right angle connector cable to remove the unit from the foot well space.

A quite valid point Ferret and I'd probably get a right angle connector to be on the safe side.

Thanks,
Martin

[The Mighty Range Rover]

How do you set that up? Did you change Normal as Patrick suggested, Off Road or create a special setting?

Martin

So in the height adjust menu I made a profile with a +40mm offset, which adds 40mm to all height settings (access, normal, off road) just leave it in factory normal height with this offset and it's basically off road height (like GAP said it's slightly less).

[Mike57]

Thanks for the replies and the additional info. Since I only really need the vehicle raised at speed when on sand I don't need to continuously adjust it so it sounds like the Gap tool should do the job for me. I will experiment this weekend.

[Blade74]

Yup I run my l322 at plus 40 all the time. Just a touch more clearance which is cool.

[rar110]

I have a BT IIDTOOL, great tool, and customer support.

I've calibrated a lower height for city driving, a normal height and an off road height. I plug in, calibrate to conditions, and unplug. Whatever the choice the car thinks it's at normal height. No speed warnings to worry about.

[Geedublya]

If left plugged in and connected the IID tool flattens the battery overnight. I did this a couple of times when trying to log an error.
I run a -10 calibration on the suspension. It gives me a little less height and a slightly plusher ride. I had the wheel alignment done at this height.

[LRD414]

If left plugged in and connected the IID tool flattens the battery overnight. I did this a couple of times when trying to log an error.
It is the connection of the phone app that causes the high drain, not the tool itself. I leave the tool plugged in but always disconnect the phone app and have no issues. This was confirmed by Patrick from Gap about a year ago and he recently reconfirmed it as still applicable.

Scott

[Disco4Dave]

It is the connection of the phone app that causes the high drain, not the tool itself. I leave the tool plugged in but always disconnect the phone app and have no issues. This was confirmed by Patrick from Gap about a year ago and he recently reconfirmed it as still applicable.
Scott
I leave my IID Tool dongle connected permanently, and have never had a problem after up to a week of downtime, however, I do also have an aux battery.

[Geedublya]

It is the connection of the phone app that causes the high drain, not the tool itself. I leave the tool plugged in but always disconnect the phone app and have no issues. This was confirmed by Patrick from Gap about a year ago and he recently reconfirmed it as still applicable.Scott

This is correct. I typed it up on Tapatalk and it should have read "If left plugged in and connected to the bluetooth device the IID tool flattens the battery overnight."

Thankfully with the dual battery system it is simple to resolve the problem.

I need to purchase one of the 90 degree connectors and extension cables for the OBD port and run my tool up out of the way.

[LRD414]

I need to purchase one of the 90 degree connectors and extension cables for the OBD port and run my tool up out of the way.
Link:
Extension Cable for Gap iiD Tool in D4 (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/electronic-diagnostic-systems/230684-extension-cable-gap-iid-tool-d4.html)

Cheers,
Scott

[letherm]

Link:
Extension Cable for Gap iiD Tool in D4 (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/electronic-diagnostic-systems/230684-extension-cable-gap-iid-tool-d4.html)

Cheers,
Scott

There's this style too which would probably sit flatter. Bit more expensive but the vendor was recommended by GAP to another member in a previous thread/post.

OBD2-Shop.eu - OBD-2 Verlängerung Flachbandkabel (https://www.obd2-shop.eu/product_info.php/cPath/23_67/products_id/347)


Martin

[The Mighty Range Rover]

This is what i bought. Works fantastic. I ran the cable up under the panel and it pokes out just under the steering wheel giving me great access when i want to disconnect it.

OBD2 OBDII Extension Cable 16Pin Male To Female Diagnostic Connector Adapter 30 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/231952608227?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

[letherm]

This is what i bought. Works fantastic. I ran the cable up under the panel and it pokes out just under the steering wheel giving me great access when i want to disconnect it.

OBD2 OBDII Extension Cable 16Pin Male To Female Diagnostic Connector Adapter 30 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/231952608227?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)


Any chance of a picture?

Martin

[Mog60]

This is what i bought. Works fantastic. I ran the cable up under the panel and it pokes out just under the steering wheel giving me great access when i want to disconnect it.

OBD2 OBDII Extension Cable 16Pin Male To Female Diagnostic Connector Adapter 30 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/231952608227?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

Thanks for your recommendation. I have just ordered one.:BigThumb:

[BMKal]

Thanks for your recommendation. I have just ordered one.:BigThumb:

X2 - Have just ordered one as well. Best price I've seen yet, by a country mile. [biggrin]

[The Mighty Range Rover]

Any chance of a picture?

Martin

Still need to stick it with a velcro sticky.

[letherm]

Still need to stick it with a velcro sticky.

Thanks for the picture. How did you get the cable behind the dash BTW? Did you need to remove/loosen the panel or will it fit in another way?

Martin

[The Mighty Range Rover]

Thanks for the picture. How did you get the cable behind the dash BTW? Did you need to remove/loosen the panel or will it fit in another way?

Martin That panel just unclips (takes a little bit of a yank) then just route the cable underneath. Super simple. You might be able to see some of the other cables i have under there. [bigsmile1]

[LRD414]

Another option. I just rest it on the panel where the clutch would be located in a manual.
I find this easy to get to but completely out of the way.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/1075.jpg

Scott

[Crofty]

Just hooked up my IID tool for the 1st time this evening; finally! It sure is weird seeing the car at bump stops, she gets real low at the bum!

[Crofty]

Need a bit of advice from the guru's who have used the IPC - Instrument Pack configuration section for when you change tyre & rim sizes.
There are quite a few settings on this; would they all need tweaking or would just changing the tyre rolling radius and rim size be sufficient which in turn will adjust the other values?
Tyre aspect size: Xx (%)
Tyre size: Xxxx (mm)
Tyre width: Xxx (mm)
Tyre rolling radius - ABS (388 - 265/65R18
Tyre Size MSB - IPC (Xx)
Wheel Rim diameter (18inch)

I'll soon be moving from 255/50R20 to 265/65R18

Cheers,
Andrew

[letherm]

Just hooked up my IID tool for the 1st time this evening; finally! It sure is weird seeing the car at bump stops, she gets real low at the bum!

It is quiet surprising how much lower than access height it goes. My wife can get in the can much easier now.

Martin

[Crofty]

Need a bit of advice from the guru's who have used the IPC - Instrument Pack configuration section for when you change tyre & rim sizes.
There are quite a few settings on this; would they all need tweaking or would just changing the tyre rolling radius and rim size be sufficient which in turn will adjust the other values?
Tyre aspect size: Xx (%)
Tyre size: Xxxx (mm)
Tyre width: Xxx (mm)
Tyre rolling radius - ABS (388 - 265/65R18
Tyre Size MSB - IPC (Xx)
Wheel Rim diameter (18inch)

I'll soon be moving from 255/50R20 to 265/65R18

Cheers,
Andrew

Any suggestions on this fellas before I enquire with GAP technical?
Pretty sure there must be some of you with the GAP tool and non standard tyres fitted [emoji38]

[Crofty]

Any suggestions on this fellas before I enquire with GAP technical?
Pretty sure there must be some of you with the GAP tool and non standard tyres fitted [emoji38]

Very quick response from GAP.

Hi Andrew

We haven't completed testing on these yet therefore I cannot give you a definite answer on which one will correct the speedometer. I will get back to you once we know more.

--

Best Regards
Patrick Meilleur,
Bachelor of Engineering
GAP Diagnostic

[Russrobe]

Crofty most people don't bother trying to change the speedometer because even at 265 60 18 or 2856018 you've just about bang on compensated for the low km/h reading every car after 2006 has to have.

Meaning with the new tyres on your speedo is near on dead accurate.

Just means you can't sit on 106km/h on the fwy anymore and not get a ticket.

[LRD414]

Meaning with the new tyres on your speedo is near on dead accurate.
Agreed on the speedo but as I understand it the odometer is now out.
But I haven't experimented with settings to correct that yet.

Scott

[Crofty]

Crofty most people don't bother trying to change the speedometer because even at 265 60 18 or 2856018 you've just about bang on compensated for the low km/h reading every car after 2006 has to have.

Meaning with the new tyres on your speedo is near on dead accurate.

Just means you can't sit on 106km/h on the fwy anymore and not get a ticket.

I simply copied my question on the forum to GAP and that was his response mentioning speedometer.
That said what's the difference on the speedo with a 65 profile at 18"?

Andrew

[rar110]

I also changed to same size. The speedo reading is not accurate but the odometer is probably out about 5%.

I didn't worry about it.

[Crofty]

Just an update for all those following this thread.
I followed up with the GAP team regarding the changes that can be done with the IID tool when fitting non standard tyres.

Response fairly straight forward below:

Hi Andrew

We did actually. The correct setting is:

Menu--Car Config--Instrument Pack--Tyre Rolling Radius (mm) - ABS.

Andrew

[scarry]

Been giving my new Gap tool a run,it is a fantastic piece of kit.
I bluetooth it to my iPad.

As for fault codes,is there a list i can get from somewhere?

I had a couple of faults that i have cleared,and they haven't returned,except code U2101-00(OF) control module configuration incompatible.

This fault won't clear.

What would this be?

Would it be something to do with the power upgrade and EGR shutting permanently?

Also without using the iPad,i have difficulty getting it to work using the dash readout,any thing i am missing?

[Mog60]

You can get a list of fault codes from the CD of the Workshop Manual sold in the shop of this forum. I am a complete novice on fault codes and had a couple myself that I could not get rid of. In the end I just live with them as with time, I have realised my particular ones do not seem to make any difference. The gap website FAQ comfortingly says... " A Land Rover without fault codes does not exist" which I believe is meant to be taken as a comfort. This is from the CD I mentioned. I expect an expert will be along to help you more fully with your question.

126675

[jliquorish]

I have a BT IIDTOOL, great tool, and customer support.

I've calibrated a lower height for city driving, a normal height and an off road height. I plug in, calibrate to conditions, and unplug. Whatever the choice the car thinks it's at normal height. No speed warnings to worry about.


Hi RAR110,

What settings have you got for these?

[Ferret]

... What settings have you got for these?

You get 3 settings you can name and customise to any suspension calibration relative to the factory 'highway' setting. There is a 4th setting labelled 'Default'.

I have the 3 setting configured to '+50', '+25' and '-20'. Choosing any one of these recalibrates the 'highway' mode of the suspension to that setting. Selecting the 'Default' returns the suspension to the factory calibration setting.

[rar110]

What Ferret said. You can also label them.

[dirvine]

Hi All,
I received my GAP tool yesterday. I started to configure the unit and have come to an issue that as yet Gap Diagnostics have not responded to. I plugged the unit into my computer and selected Find Device. The 1st screen that popped up said my vehicle was a L222 Range Rover. I have a L319 D4. It seems this must have been programmed from the factory. Is this something I should be concerned with or should I just continue to program the Firmware. Also it had 2 releases. Do I do both or only one? one is 3.00.00 B22481 (Release) and the other is 3.01.00 B2184 (Special). The Manual only shows one (the release). Seems These things are not as easy to set up when not supplied by a local manufacturer.
Thanks

[letherm]

Hi All,
I received my GAP tool yesterday. I started to configure the unit and have come to an issue that as yet Gap Diagnostics have not responded to. I plugged the unit into my computer and selected Find Device. The 1st screen that popped up said my vehicle was a L222 Range Rover. I have a L319 D4. It seems this must have been programmed from the factory. Is this something I should be concerned with or should I just continue to program the Firmware. Also it had 2 releases. Do I do both or only one? one is 3.00.00 B22481 (Release) and the other is 3.01.00 B2184 (Special). The Manual only shows one (the release). Seems These things are not as easy to set up when not supplied by a local manufacturer.
Thanks

I had the same message pop up on mine when I bought it. Dan from Duckworths where I bought it said that this was the default setting and that once you connect and register it to your D4 that will change.

Just use the ordinary release. From memory, the special is for a particular one off purpose - sorry can't recall off hand.

Martin

[dirvine]

Thanks Martin, will give it a go!

[BeeJ]

Has anyone been able to re-calibrate the fuel gauge or tank capacity? I have a long range tank gravity fed to main, would be awesome to re-calibrate so the dist to empty was closer to what it really is vs sitting on ~750kms for the whole of the aux tank then going down...

I have 33s on my D3 and had to fix speedo as it was too far out. From memory it is the Tyre diameter that you change, worked perfectly

[letherm]

Thanks Martin, will give it a go!

Hi Dirvine.

I just updated my GAP IID Tool to the latest firmware and saw the special option. If you click on the button the description changes to "For Nav On Move Update Only". I knew I had seen it somewhere. [smilebigeye]

Martin

[4evershiva]

British offroad has quoted $950 incl delivery for the GAP IID tool BT version.....is it cheaper to buy it online?

[DiscoJeffster]

Hi Dirvine.

I just updated my GAP IID Tool to the latest firmware and saw the special option. If you click on the button the description changes to "For Nav On Move Update Only". I knew I had seen it somewhere. [smilebigeye]

Martin

If you try and enable this on a model and in a region where it’s not available it won’t work and you’ll get errors listed in the IIDTool. I tried it on mine in AU and it didn’t work.

[iannicki]

British offroad has quoted $950 incl delivery for the GAP IID tool BT version.....is it cheaper to buy it online?

Try emailing Dan at Duckworths in the UK (Dan.Roberts@duckworth.co.uk) and mention the AULRO forum. I paid 355 pounds (just shy of AS$640 at the time) inclusive of delivery for the GAP IID BT back in November 2017.

[Mike57]

That is about what I paid from Duckworths in 2016. $950 seems way over the top.

[BradC]

I bought straight from Gap in Canada. It was the cheapest at the time, came with free shipping and arrived in a matter of days.

[letherm]

That is about what I paid from Duckworths in 2016. $950 seems way over the top.

+1

Duckworths were the cheapest when I bought mine too. As earlier posted e-mail Dan and mention the forum.

Martin

[orangepop]

What you use the tool for is to change the height calibration, not the specifically the height as such. That is still controlled by the vehicle.

For instance if you change the height calibration by +50mm, your normal on road height will be recalibrated +50mm higher than before. Once the vehicle detects it is now below its normal on road height calibration it will raise itself an additional +50mm. That additional +50mm is now equivalent to off road height but because the vehicle thinks it is at on road height it will not lower if you exceed 50k/hr

Because all you do is change the height calibration (or height off set) every thing works the same as before. So if you go into off road height it will now be at off road height plus (or minus) the off set you have choosen with the IID tool but it will still lower automatically at 50k/hr.

For safety reason you can not choose greater than +50mm off set.

To Change the height Calibration do you just need the ignition ON - OR does the engine need to be running so it will activate the
compressor ?

[Mike57]

I think I did mine with the engine running so not sure if it works without it running.

[Ferret]

To Change the height Calibration do you just need the ignition ON - OR does the engine need to be running so it will activate the
compressor ?

Pretty sure you only the ignition on to change the calibration but the engine needs to be on before the vehicle will actually respond to the change in calibration.

[orangepop]

Got it sorted thanks. Left the engine running so it’s raised the suspension once the raise all command was completed. Have to say the BT App to do this is far from intuitive.

[Turtle60]

Will work either way but you dont want to risk a flat battery so fire it up so you you can get the compressor going you can then jump out and marvel at your new lift. Cut loose. In fact stand outside the car with your phone and play with it. The default LR heights are logged straight up so you can’t bugger anything up. Goodbye to 50klm per messages telling you to slow down before it gets a sad face when off road. Ive got a 20, 35 and 50 height setting all saved. Pretty decent.

[IndusD4]

The IIDTool will tell you if it needs just ignition on or engine started. I reset the service interval indicator on a D3 last week with running engine, then the phone app displays a message to turn the engine off and turn ignition on. On a D4, the IIDTool would probably do this by itself as there's no key in the ignition.

Ron

[DrOsteo]

Anyone know if (and how) you can set buttons on the key fob to lower the car to access level or raised levels? Would be a handy thing sometimes when loading the car with gear and or people.

[Tombie]

Anyone know if (and how) you can set buttons on the key fob to lower the car to access level or raised levels? Would be a handy thing sometimes when loading the car with gear and or people.

There’s a sequence already available.
It’s in your handbook.
Needs the hazards on, so really only helpful for hitching a trailer.