Puma diff lock not engaging

[Perth 110]

I've had my 2008 Puma since xmas time and had it out quite a bit on weekends. I dont always use the diff locks, but when I need to, it doesnt engage easily. I find I have to muck around with the levers and the clutch trying to get the dashboard light to come on, so I know its in. Any ideas oin fixing this so it slips in first go? John

[tact]

I've had my 2008 Puma since xmas time and had it out quite a bit on weekends. I dont always use the diff locks, but when I need to, it doesnt engage easily. I find I have to muck around with the levers and the clutch trying to get the dashboard light to come on, so I know its in. Any ideas oin fixing this so it slips in first go? John

Assuming no actual problem like a sticking shaft - Just apply a firm pressure to the left on the shift while going easy, keep the pressure on the shift and steer a little one way then t'other, dip the clutch pedal briefly if needed. When it's ready it will slip in and you can release the press on the shift. It's not like a syncro gearbox, it can take a little while.

[loneranger]

Do a bit of a search on here. There's a few posts about how to engage because I had trouble with mine. I'm feeling lazy otherwise I'd find it and link for you. 😉

[POD]

The light will not necessarily illuminate straight away when you select diff lock, the diff lock dog will engage when the splines line up which will often be after the wheels have moved a bit. Likewise when disengaging, there can be a delay in the diff lock dropping out (and the light switching off) after you move the lever to disengage, particularly if there is a bit of wind-up load on the centre diff.

[DiscoMick]

On our D1 it was sometimes necessary to roll forwards several metres before the lock engaged, and to roll backwards a short distance before it disengaged.

[Col 110]

The light will not necessarily illuminate straight away when you select diff lock, the diff lock dog will engage when the splines line up which will often be after the wheels have moved a bit. Likewise when disengaging, there can be a delay in the diff lock dropping out (and the light switching off) after you move the lever to disengage, particularly if there is a bit of wind-up load on the centre diff.

That is exactly what I get - often it will engage (light on) straight away - other times I need to roll forward to get the light on. And with the disengage I often need to roll forward to get the light off.

I was out on the weekend and at one time I engaged CDL and the light did not go on - I moved forward and still no light - then it started flashing - then after a few more meters the light went solid.

[DiscoMick]

Sounds normal to me.

[D90 orkney]

I've found when going from 4HI to 4LO or the other way I need to clutch in to take it out of 4HI, put it in neutral, then clutch out and clutch back in to put it in 4LO

this isn't necessary every time but have found this helps when it's not co-operating

[Perth 110]

Thanks guys. It seems I have a normal defender. Just play around with it, move forwards and backwards, clutch in, clutch out and so on. Worked well up at Wilbinga on the weekend, but it doesnt really like those soft sand dunes. My mate was in a DMax and made it up fairly easily. Bugger. But, the CDL made a big difference though.
Has anyone put back or front lockers on as a separate way of locking just one diff?

[POD]

Not really necessary to play around with it, just move the selector into position and it will engage as you drive and the light will let you know it has dropped in.
Lots of info here and elsewhere about locking front & rear diffs. I have an Ashcroft locker in the front and an ARB locker (unfortunately, thanks to previous owner) in the rear of my 130. Not much will stop it.

[roverrescue]

It really shouldn't be temperamental
I'd be checking the linkages to ensure that pushing the lever across fully rotates the locking dog pin
Assuming that pin rotates smoothly - the internals are generally robust and the sliding dog will lock.

It is recommended that if you are slipping any wheels to engage the centre diff lock - the centre diff does not love speed differentials and will wear quickly - a 2008 should at least have the moderately weak 2pin centre as opposed to the abysmally weak single pin centre?

S

[justinc]

Thanks guys. It seems I have a normal defender. Just play around with it, move forwards and backwards, clutch in, clutch out and so on. Worked well up at Wilbinga on the weekend, but it doesnt really like those soft sand dunes. My mate was in a DMax and made it up fairly easily. Bugger. But, the CDL made a big difference though.
Has anyone put back or front lockers on as a separate way of locking just one diff?

The dmax has a fair bit of torque and if it is an auto it'll fly up sand with the dsc off. Thats the only time a defender will come second...😎

[tact]

Not really necessary to play around with it, just move the selector into position and it will engage as you drive and the light will let you know it has dropped in.
Lots of info here and elsewhere about locking front & rear diffs. I have an Ashcroft locker in the front and an ARB locker (unfortunately, thanks to previous owner) in the rear of my 130. Not much will stop it.

Exactly right. Don't wait til you are in strife at, or in, an obstacle before engaging the CDL. Once you find yourself unable to continue before you engage the CDL - you may have to do a bit of back&forth etc. sometimes you'll be lucky and it will go in first time.

Better alternative is to just ease the selector over, while driving along, before you find you cannot proceed, and hold it there until the light comes up.

[Perth 110]

The dmax has a fair bit of torque and if it is an auto it'll fly up sand with the dsc off. Thats the only time a defender will come second...😎


Yes,his is an auto and it did just fly up the hill.I agree,it is the only time we will come second.

[Perth 110]

Exactly right. Don't wait til you are in strife at, or in, an obstacle before engaging the CDL. Once you find yourself unable to continue before you engage the CDL - you may have to do a bit of back&forth etc. sometimes you'll be lucky and it will go in first time.

Better alternative is to just ease the selector over, while driving along, before you find you cannot proceed, and hold it there until the light comes up.

Ah, I was waiting until i stopped to engage the CDL. I will definitely do it now as I am moving, probly at slower speeds though. I dont know that it should/could be done at more than, say, 10-15 kph.
We are going down south this weekend starting at Lake Navarino, and I know there are some gorges down there. Will be a good test, not that it needs testing, just perfecting.

[tact]

Ah, I was waiting until i stopped to engage the CDL. I will definitely do it now as I am moving, probly at slower speeds though. I dont know that it should/could be done at more than, say, 10-15 kph.
We are going down south this weekend starting at Lake Navarino, and I know there are some gorges down there. Will be a good test, not that it needs testing, just perfecting.

Engaging while moving is fine. Just make sure you are travelling relatively straight line and not spinning any wheels at the time.

[weeds]

I engage CDL on the move....at what ever speed I hit the dirt at

[weeds]

Has anyone put back or front lockers on as a separate way of locking just one diff?

Am I reading it right that you are asking engage a locker instead of CDL? You won't gain anything, CDL first than axle lockers after that.

[numpty]

Am I reading it right that you are asking engage a locker instead of CDL? You won't gain anything, CDL first than axle lockers after that.

What he said.

[Perth 110]

Am I reading it right that you are asking engage a locker instead of CDL? You won't gain anything, CDL first than axle lockers after that.

I just heard people talking about diff lockers, but I didnt think you would need them on a defender.

[tact]

I just heard people talking about diff lockers, but I didnt think you would need them on a defender.

Sorry if this is sounds overly basic: Defenders have three diffs:
One is between the back wheels.
One is between the front wheels.
One is between the shafts that go to the front and rear diffs (allowing full time 4wd and no driveline wind-up). And only this diff is locked by the CDL.

When the centre diff is locked a Defender, it is then rigged like any part time 4wd vehicle after they lock hubs and engage 4wd.

So the question of whether a defender needs lockable front or rear diffs is just as relevant a question as it is for a Toyota/Nissan/bishi part time 4wd vehicle.