New project, Desert S1 find

[pzs]

56-57...need to research for date, all there, appears no rust, need to get home and look closer, found in Central Aus, outside Alice. Hope to record build here, I'll be asking members for info/help with this as I have never owned a LR before...3 year time period I give it.121214121215121216121217121218

[goingbush]

Nice find, they are still out there !!

[Chops]

Very nice indeed,,, will be watching with interest [smilebigeye]

[Tomo]

That is a fantastic find!!!!

[digger]

Very nice! The firewall is a likely spot for rust, followed by foot wells and the gearbox support member of chassis. Get the chassis number from the pass side rear spring support hanger and go to this site

Clifton Scientific Text Services, the Netherlands (http://www.clifton.nl/index.html?calvin.html)

That is usually pretty good for info.

Enjoy it!

[Fluids]

Wow! A barn find ... without the barn.

Nice pickup ... lotta work [thumbsupbig]

[101RRS]

Just going by the radiator panel it looks as if it is an 86" so more likely 54/55 range.

Garry

[JDNSW]

Looks pretty complete, and with that provenance is likely to be as rust free as they come. But it may well have been "run into the ground", so that a lot of mechanical work is needed. Or with any luck was replaced fairly early in its life by the more advanced Series 2/2a, possibly to gain a diesel. The glass for the missing rear window may be lying nearby, the rubber mounting having disintegrated.

[Dinty]

? is there something interesting in the grass in the image shot of the rear, or is it just some other rubbish laying around in the weeds, from where I'm looking you will need 4 wheels and a minimum of 8 wheel nuts a few mates and a car trailer, just for your information if your a newbie the wheel nuts and studs are 9/16"BSF, you may want to try n borrow a tap and die nut in that thread size, the reason I say "Die Nut" is that a die nut is hex headed, you would not be able to use a proper die because of all the protrusions on the axle assembly, anyway mate it looks tempting.
A very long time ago (1976) whilst we were driving out to Ayers Rock on the track (and that's what it was back then) I came across a Series 1 107" that had been rolled, some bits were missing off it, I didn't take anything as I had no room for anything LOL, good luck with your venture, cheers Dennis
ps take a hefty brass faced hammer with you as well, when you have it safely jacked up, give the brake drums a whack if they are frozen/stuck onto the brake drum,,.

[pzs]

? is there something interesting in the grass in the image shot of the rear,
ps take a hefty brass faced hammer with you as well, when you have it safely jacked up, give the brake drums a whack if they are frozen/stuck onto the brake drum,,.

Thanks Dennis, good advise on brass hammer, and a keen eye re something interesting.....it is a PTO winch, I believe it used to power a large timber saw for when the owner cut fence posts.

I went out last weekend and got the wheels, and painted this week. $300 for sandblasting and powder coating. I have ordered tyres 600 16, recovery is still a few weekend away I'll update when I recovery vehicle

[pzs]

Wheels on...stuck in gear....suggestions on how to get in neutral, I could remove tail shafts to get on trailer, but might be easy way of getting it out of gear....has been sitting for decades, wheels are free from brake bind

[Tim_AM]

Does the engine turn by hand? If so you could remove the plugs and winch it on to the trailer? Probably easier to drop the half shafts out?

[klonk]

Looks like it only needs petrol put in it. Have fun.

[pzs]

Looks like it only needs petrol put in it. Have fun.
When I get it home I will try that just for fun....

[rangieman]

Wheels on...stuck in gear....suggestions on how to get in neutral, I could remove tail shafts to get on trailer, but might be easy way of getting it out of gear....has been sitting for decades, wheels are free from brake bind
Will the Transfer case go into neutral ?

[pzs]

Will the Transfer case go into neutral ?

dont know....I don't even know how to do this.....I'll do some research, And go out this week after work and try that

[numpty]

Just pull the red lever back halfway.

[pzs]

I did muck about with levers but all are jammed, I'm going out over the Easter weekend to remove tail shafts, and hopefully tow it back onto clear flat ground, I can get it on a trailer then, what are the spanner sizes needed to remove tail shafts front and rear?

[Bundy]

If original 1/4 BSW 5/16 BS (About 13mm and a bit) and they must be fairly thin like a decent ring spanner or 3/8 drive socket. Someone might have replaced them with later UNF bolts and then they will have 9/16" (14mm) heads.

Take some penetrating oil with you and start putting on all the pivot points of the handbrake, red lever and trans lever ball. Also use it on the tail shaft bolts and nuts.

It is only necessary to undo the diff end and wire them up with some suitable wire.

[1950landy]

If they are the original bolts you will need 2 x 5/16 W ring open ended spanners, & if they have been changed either 9/16 AF or 14 mm . some of the bolts may have round heads & the head is tapered to clear the yokes so you will need a large screw driver to wedge in beside the bolt head so you can undo the nuts.
Your main problem if it is stuck in gear & the brakes are seized will be turning the prop shaft so you can get at all the bolts & nuts . [bighmmm] I would be trying to remove the floor so you can get to the gear change & transfer linkages & selector shafts & them give them a good spray of WD40 & see you can get them to move first. Just behind the gear leaver there is a hinged cover over the gear box oil filler & dip stick , you could spray the selector shafts through there & squat some oil in the top of the box to lube the shafts from the inside. Again if the brakes are seized you are going to have to loosen them off so you can move it.

A word of warning don't to turn the motor over with the start motor i it is in gear or the motor is seized other wise you will brake the rubber drive in the bendex . They are not cheap & the starter is not easy to get on & off. Always try turning the motor with the crank handle first to make sure the motor will turn ![bighmmm]

[pzs]

forewarned is forearmed as they say, I will be armed with the appropriate tools....cheers guys

[pzs]

Couple of photos original owner sent to me, late 50's early 60's, the early road train photo is now Alice Springs Bunnings store location.

[OneOff]

As mentioned earlier, it's a much easier job to pull the half-shafts out than crawling around on your back trying to get the driveshaft(s) uni's off.

my2c.

[123rover50]

As mentioned earlier, it's a much easier job to pull the half-shafts out than crawling around on your back trying to get the driveshaft(s) uni's off.

my2c.
Its a series one. look at the photo.

It does not have fully floating axles, so cant do that unless you remove wheels and hubs as well.

Keith

[OneOff]

Aah... my mistake; I didn't realise they were different. Learning all the time. [smilebigeye]

[pzs]

Aah... my mistake; I didn't realise they were different. Learning all the time. [smilebigeye]
Just what I am looking to do with this forum...cheers

[dirvine]

I thought I had a series 1 with fully floating rear end. The reason I say that was because if I tried to fit a s2 axle on either side it was longer by about an inch and I needed to put spacers and longer bots in to make them fit. I am now questioning when did LR widen the track of its vehicles between S1 and S2. As I have said in my previous post with pics, it was a S1 1958 model. People say it was an s2. But the dash, body etc was all SI and the wheel base was 86". So I am now confused

[123rover50]

It would be an 88" wheelbase. The last of them made in 57/58, some had fully floating axles,continuing on to the Series 2 in 58 also.

Keith

[JDNSW]

Just to clarify the last post. The track widened with the Series 2, but the last of the Series 1s had fully floating axles, still with the narrower track, so the half axles are about an inch shorter than the Series 2/2a/3 ones.

However, since the floating stub axle bolts onto the same axle housing, it is possible to convert the semifloating axle to full floating with 2/2a/3 parts using either the 1958 Series 1 half axles (scarce as hen's teeth) or 2/2a half axles with a spacer, and I am sure both have been done many times.

[dirvine]

Thanks John, that is why I am convinced my old LR was a 86" S1. It must have been very close to change over to S2 because it had all the S1 wiring, engine, dash, radiator gearbox (small front bearing), narrow track BUT when I went fit a S2 motor (ohead valves), the engine mounts were in the correct place! That was odd as I was told at the time I would have to get mounts made. But in the end I didn't. I posted a pic of it in the S1 forum.

[123rover50]

As I said. 88 inch wheelbase not 86 inch.
The 88 inch came in near the end of 1956 so yours would be an 88"
Perhaps yours was a diesel, thats why they lengthened it a couple of inches, to take the longer engine. Might be why the later 2 1/4 engine bolted up as well.
Start your own thread on yours and we may be able to shed some light on it.

Keith

[dirvine]

It had a petrol side valve motor when i bought it, so I hardly think someone before me would have changed motors It was not modified in any way when I bought it except for the rear springs which seemed to have about 4 or 5 more leaves than other S1s in the LROCV when I was a member. No one at any time questioned my wheel base. I must admit I never measured it. But all parts I ever bought were as per a S1. Dash looked like a late model SI, Brake pedals, slave/master cylinders etc Wiring loom, lights radiator, etc all the same. Filled the petrol tank by lifting the seat.

[numpty]

88" wheelbase vehicles were the last of the Series 1's ie '57 and '58.

Mine is fitted with fully floating axles but as it is a '57 I don't know whether that was a conversion for SMHEA or by a previous owner.

[pzs]

88" wheelbase vehicles were the last of the Series 1's ie '57 and '58.

Mine is fitted with fully floating axles but as it is a '57 I don't know whether that was a conversion for SMHEA or by a previous owner.
What is SMHEA?

[Don 130]

What is SMHEA?

Snowy Mountains Hydro Electric Authority

Don.

[pzs]

A step closer to bringing LR home, beautiful morning in Central Aus today so traveled out and unbolted shafts as suggested.....easily done.

gotta wait until until I get back from leave before it comes home, I have cleared out side shed where the components will be stored.

plan is to do complete strip down in shed, store the individual components as assemblies in side shed, and grab a diff assembly to restore and bolt onto chassis in main shed then start on next component etc etc.

[pzs]

Snowy Mountains Hydro Electric Authority

Don.
Cheers Don

[JDNSW]

Looks in pretty good shape underneath!

That flange is oily by the looks.

[pzs]

Solid chassis and bulk head, Uni joints tight, splines a bit worn, grease nipples have been well used, so will be interesting tear down

[pzs]

We went out and pulled it out of scrub and onto the flat...was worried about bush fires after good rains over summer, was going to wait after annual leave, but it got the better of me. Not home yet but a step closer

[OneOff]

Great pictures. the last one looks like it was taken with a special "1970's" filter on the lens...

[pzs]

Got LR home and washed down, bulk head rust free...gotta love a desert enviroment

[Bearman]

I reckon you have a good find there. It should clean up very nice. Love that improvised support for the front guards!

[Tim_AM]

great find!! let the project begin!!!

[Don 130]

I love the patina of the body. Are you keeping it in desert trim?
Don.

[pzs]

The guard support I was told by original owners was mostly in place to support the canvas water bags...if anyone remember those.

It will be a full chassis up rebuild, I do like the patina, I'm am thinking A new finish on everything except ally body, the interior will look new, every thing will be nice new and crisp looking....except the ally body. it will, or should look like it does now....just thoughts at the minute, Firstly, i will be enjoying climbing all over and under it, and contemplating how I will go about this for a month or two before I turn a spanner.

[pzs]

Got this today 200 meter from home loaded with spare parts, twin tanks and capston winch. Now I gotta decide which on to do!

[rangieman]

Got this today 200 meter from home loaded with spare parts, twin tanks and capston winch. Now I gotta decide which on to do!
Easy ReBuild 2 [thumbsupbig]

[Don 130]

Yep, looks like your project just doubled.
Don.

[pzs]

Yep, looks like your project just doubled.
Don.

correct

[pzs]

For the sake of this thread, the green one I'll name SLR named after the original owner here in Alice Springs, and the silver one I'll name CLR also named after the original owner here in Alice Springs.

Both vehicles have belonged to early Centralian Pioneers, both SLR and CLR played there fair share of adventures in NT and are both worthy of restoration. I have a photo of SLR driving up Ayers Rock, culturally appropriate....not nowadays, but none the less a great story, and a photo I will share.

CLR was used as a farm implement( previous photos on here)and was used as the local home milko delivery vehicle.

some might say build a good one out of the two...but I recon there both worthy given the stories that the old guy's sons have shared about the cars.

[strangy]

Great find on both.
I am perhaps a smidge envious.
Enjoy the process.

[pzs]

Pulled box out for rebuild and started to clean chassis, it appears it is a yellow colour underneath all the crud, with this marking...any clues as to what it means, is it factory?

[JDNSW]

No idea what the writing is, but the yellow is the colour that Department of Supply painted Landrovers used by several Commonwealth organisations including the Bureau of Mineral Resources and DCA. (Not sure whether D of S painted them or bought them from Rover Australia that way)

[Dgd69]

Mine had similar painted on numbers but mine is a 1960 s2 one 76 on outrigger and 76 again on crossmember I put down to possible employee number who built chassis? https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/471.jpg

[Chops]

Mine had similar painted on numbers but mine is a 1960 s2 one 76 on outrigger and 76 again on crossmember I put down to possible employee number who built chassis?


Makes a very plausible point,,

[tact]

Who is feeling sensitive?

There's a pill for that...

129455

[gromit]

Pulled box out for rebuild and started to clean chassis, it appears it is a yellow colour underneath all the crud, with this marking...any clues as to what it means, is it factory?

My '56 has a yellow (Chromate) primer under the green. Might just be just the undercoat you've found.

You can see traces of the yellow in the pictures below.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/598.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WE4jJy)DSCN2690 (https://flic.kr/p/WE4jJy) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/478.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/YrN1ud)DSCF3943 (https://flic.kr/p/YrN1ud) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

[pzs]

Yellow ndercoat, thanks.
i am now restoring tail shafts, I have made 2 good ones out of several so I have no play in splines, one is earlier series one and have marks to line up with good.

the other is from series 2, with larger Uni joints

question I have is the later series 2 shaft has arrow on yoke but no aligning arrow on shaft, the shaft does have a small hole on the spline weld, is this hole the aligning make for the yoke?

[justinc]

Wow what a find! !. Recently was driving aimlessly atound Araluen and Larapinta checking out the burbs, and csme across a few gems stashed in carports snd driveways... a couple of possibly genuine Sandmans for starters!!!. There was also a monaro coupe body shell not far from the train station in a workyard...😍

Jc

[JDNSW]

....

question I have is the later series 2 shaft has arrow on yoke but no aligning arrow on shaft, the shaft does have a small hole on the spline weld, is this hole the aligning make for the yoke?

I have never seen that, but it is possible, I suppose. But I wonder if the spline on that shaft has been replaced? And the hole was to prevent pressure buildup during welding, which may have been an issue if the welding was done in a butcher's shop not a factory!

You don't really need the aligning marks - you just need to make sure the splined U-joint is in phase with the fixed one at the other end, that is, with the yokes closest to each other in the same plane.

[pzs]

From factory they are slightly off plane the other yoke, I have other shafts (all floggedout) and when you align the arrows they are about one spline out, I'm guessing it probably doesn't make much difference anyways as the shafts are not spinning that fast on a series one and plus it is a swb so not as if it is a long shaft spinning out of whack at high speed

[pzs]

Wow what a find! !. Recently was driving aimlessly atound Araluen and Larapinta checking out the burbs, and csme across a few gems stashed in carports snd driveways... a couple of possibly genuine Sandmans for starters!!!. There was also a monaro coupe body shell not far from the train station in a workyard...😍

Jc
It amazing what's in people's yards here...being so isolated there are time warp left overs still laying around out in the bush...lots around aboriginal communities, just logistically very expensive to get them out

[pzs]

Finished this today before and after photo....I am chasing a flat belt pulley if anyone has one

[Fourgearsticks]

It amazing what's in people's yards here...being so isolated there are time warp left overs still laying around out in the bush...lots around aboriginal communities, just logistically very expensive to get them out
DId a bit of work out that way a couple years ago. I used to always go and have a look at stations wrecking yards. One I remember had an early 80” with green painted chasis,mostly complete car. The same area of wrecks there was a Blitz that would make a good project. They said it was Albert Namatjira’s, he used to drive it round the countryside to get scenic spots to paint.

[pzs]

DId a bit of work out that way a couple years ago. I used to always go and have a look at stations wrecking yards. One I remember had an early 80” with green painted chasis,mostly complete car. The same area of wrecks there was a Blitz that would make a good project. They said it was Albert Namatjira’s, he used to drive it round the countryside to get scenic spots to paint.
Do you recall what station had the 80"?

[Fourgearsticks]

Do you recall what station had the 80"?
Yoo have a PM

[mick88]

Couple of photos original owner sent to me, late 50's early 60's, the early road train photo is now Alice Springs Bunnings store location.

Now that is some road train, the donk in the prime mover would have known what a hard days work was.
Had the Landy just been delivered on it?
It would be early sixties photo as the FB Holden was released in 1960, and the EK in 1961.

If only these two old series Land Rovers you have picked up could talk, they would certainly have some tales to tell.
Following your thread with interest.

Cheers, Mick.

[mick88]

DId a bit of work out that way a couple years ago. I used to always go and have a look at stations wrecking yards. One I remember had an early 80” with green painted chasis,mostly complete car. The same area of wrecks there was a Blitz that would make a good project. They said it was Albert Namatjira’s, he used to drive it round the countryside to get scenic spots to paint.

A mate used to manage a big property up in the far north of SA, and the tip on the place had every tractor, truck, car, etc. that had finished it's working life there. Most were like the day they were parked up, just surface rust and sun baked, due to the minimal rainfall and extreme heat.

Cheers, Mick.

[pzs]

Little by little, it's coming apart, some rust found in rear x member and at front of chassis at bumper mount....easy repairs, I'm going to strip chassis get it sand blasted and do repairs then I can start rebuild with a fresh base

[pzs]

Made some nice shafts last weekend out of six shafts, got some nice tight splines by mix and matching, CBC bearings had in stock universals at $20 each, some new boots from series one shop and some old black paint, new shafts for less than $70 each

[pzs]

More dismantling New Year's Day 2018

[pzs]

OK now the restoration can begin

[Chops]

It looks to be in pretty good shape to start with,,, bonus [biggrin]

[pzs]

What have others done with badly rusted rear cross members, series 2's fit?

[gromit]

I guess you have a few options.

Cut out the rust & patch it.

Make a new one, Chazza on the forum has done this and details were on the forum somewhere (I think).

Find someone with a chassis that you can cut one off. I struggled a few years ago to give away an 86" chassis that only had surface rust.

Buy a reproduction from the UK but the early stuff is expensive PSK 3639 - Rear Crossmember with 10" extensions and spring hangers, 1954 to 1958 (http://www.pegasusparts.co.uk/ourshop_90073/prod_5873966-PSK-3639-Rear-Crossmember-with-10-extensions-and-spring-hangers-1954-to-1958.html)



Colin

[chazza]

Yes, I made my own one copying what was left of the original; PM me if you would like a copy of the articles I wrote,

Cheers Charlie

PS Keep it as original as you can; prices are rising!

[pzs]

Just picked this up, was a give away on Alice Springs Buy Swap Sell.....any ideas which series it is off?
Not for a series one but I grabbed it anyways135029

[Dinty]

It could be anything from Series 2/Series 3 civilian rear X member cheers dennis
ps but going by the mud flap steel bits it could be S3, but definately not Series 1 at all

[JDNSW]

The defining bit for recognising Series 1 is the rounded corners each side of the wide bit in the middle. That one is Series 2/2a/3 civilian.

[pzs]

I have looked at Melrose Landrover event, is this a swap meet also?

[grey_ghost]

I went to Melrose last year - there were vendors selling new stuff, but no swap meet. Having said that - it would be worth your while checking with the event organisers!

[67hardtop]

It is not a swap meet. However some ppl try to sell some bits n pieces "on the side" so to speak. I might suggest something to the committie about a swap meet type thing as an extra attraction.

Cheers Rod

[pzs]

That would be a great idea....I got a few bits and pieces I could bring down from Alice Springs.

i don't have a working Landrover...yet...but looking forward to getting out of town for a couple of days, to look at some early LR

[67hardtop]

They are putting on a bigger show coz of the 70th land rover anniversary this year. Its always a great show at Melrose at Easter.

Cheers Rod

[pzs]

I got a real nice series one LWB chassis on the weekend, with the intention to cut the rear xmember to use on my swb chassis.....trouble is I not sure I want to butcher a clean chassis, does anyone have a clean rear series one xmember they want to get rid off, I also have a Series 2/3 rear member(very good cond, see photo previous email) to swap or sell.

[pzs]

I am after 86 inch vehicle Spring weight specs, I got them for 88 inch, would it be much difference for an 86?

[67hardtop]

Aparently there is an unofficial swap meet type thing but thats all i know.
Cheers Rod

[JDNSW]

I think the 86 and 88 spring specs are the same.

[pzs]

I think the 86 and 88 spring specs are the same.
Cheers I was going to run with 88 specs, heading down to Adelaide tomorrow with springs hopefully they can recondition them