Series 2 Restoration in the Hunter Valley

[AJF]

Hi all

We have started the restoration on the Series 2 - making reasonable progress over the last few weekends with some pretty rusty nuts and bolts.

This is a project for me and my three teenage sons, so plenty of enthusiasm at this stage.

Strip down of all body panels and the bulkhead now complete - photo's below.

Next step is engine removal.

Cheers
Angus

[Tim_AM]

looks like a great base vehicle,

whats the chassis like? pretty solid??

Good luck!

[AJF]

Thanks Tim

Chassis looks ok, once I get it stripped down I will get is sand blasted as see what I have to work with.

Cheers
Angus

[Dinty]

Can I ask where in the Valley are you situated, I'm in Cessnock cheers dennis

[AJF]

Dennis

We are north of Maitland. Is there a local Landy association I should join?

Cheers

[Dinty]

There are a few 4wd clubs but they are not into restoring vehicles (maybe some individuals in either club maybe but not as a club if you get my meaning) I have a network of friends who live in the lower Hunter valley that are avid restorers, I have 11 Land Rovers, 9 on club plates restored by myself over many years, I will pm you our mobile number, cheers Dennis

[Tim_AM]

There are a few 4wd clubs but they are not into restoring vehicles (maybe some individuals in either club maybe but not as a club if you get my meaning) I have a network of friends who live in the lower Hunter valley that are avid restorers, I have 11 Land Rovers, 9 on club plates restored by myself over many years, I will pm you our mobile number, cheers Dennis

11!!!! good work! maybe you should start your own club,

i'll head up from the Smoke to see you!

[Landy Smurf]

I have looked into starting a club that are associated around series land rovers, based in the Hunter.
Good to see more and more popping up :)
Best of luck with your resto.

[Kjman55]

I have looked into starting a club that are associated around series land rovers, based in the Hunter.
Good to see more and more popping up :)
Best of luck with your resto.
Great idea. It would be great to have regular get togethers with other series enthusiasts.

[AJF]

Hi All

Quick question - on my vehicle it seems that someone previously replaced the springs - see attached photo.

121725

Two questions:

1 - how do I know if the springs need to be replaced? To my eye there are no obvious signs of major problems - cracks, sagging, rust. Is it just good to replace them. (I plan to replace the shock in any event).

2 - I have read a number of forums which debate the merits of parabolic v traditional road springs - any views?

Otherwise, restoration of the vehicle is continuing with the engine and gearbox taken out over the weekend.

Cheers
Angus

[Sam22]

G'day Angus,

The wiser noggins on here will probably have a more detailed answer to this question than me, but I opted to

a. Replace my leaf springs because when I counted the leaves on each one there were varied numbers and it appeared that they had received a (dodgy) repair. Also, it was clear that they had sagged to the point where some (minor) dents had started to appear on the chassis.

b. Replace the shocks because the cylinder bodies had rusted and movement in them wasn't great.

c. Go with parabolics after reading a bunch of reviews on here and other forums which suggested that they had far better travel and were more comfortable. Given that I want to use my Series 2 as a regular commuter (for when it is raining and I can't use the bike) I went with the better option for comfort. Expense is the issue (parabolics in Aus are upwards of $600 an end) however, I got around this by ordering them from the UK (paddockspares). Yes, postage was a bugger, but it still worked out a lot cheaper (which is a bit of an indictment on the Aussie suppliers).

Anyway mate, I have only been at this for a couple of months so best listen to the experts who I am sure will comment after me. Have a look at my post on Berty for some photos and details of the job if you intend to go that way.

Sam

[OneOff]

Given that I want to use my Series 2 as a regular commuter (for when it is raining and I can't use the bike)


Hahahahaha... [bigrolf]

Excuse my mirth; never been in a Series that didn't leak all over the occupants whenever it was raining... [smilebigeye]

[Tim_AM]

Hahahahaha... [bigrolf]

Excuse my mirth; never been in a Series that didn't leak all over the occupants whenever it was raining... [smilebigeye]

thats why they have holes in the floor as well as the roof that way the water can get out!

[AJF]

Sam

Thanks for your advice. I do not plan to use the vehicle for daily travel but still think a good ride is worth the expense. Plus it would be annoying to do a rebuild and then not be happy with the outcome.

I agree with you comments re Aussie suppliers - the US supplier Rovers North is cheaper for old man emu shocks that ARB. Can't believe it.

I think I will go for the Monroe shocks from paddocks.

Cheers
Angus

[AJF]

Hi All

I have now got the vehicle stripped down to the chassis.

The strip down went well, other than the front steering relay (which I have decided to leave as is as someone previously welded it in place).

Photo attached.



Now get the chassis sand blasted and do a few small welding fixes.

Cheers
Angus

[AJF]

Hi all

With help from some local mechanics, I now have the gearbox stripped down.

The gearbox is not original as it is a Suffix E - according to lrfaq.com that comes from a 1967 Series 2A.

The issue I would like some help on is confirmation that the lay shaft is indeed from a Suffix E. (There is apparently a different end bearing for the different suffix's).

Attached is a photo of the lay shaft.

Any views?

Cheers
Angus


122839

[AJF]

Hi all

I have been making some good progress with the vehicle, but probably not following the usual order of restoration.

Attached are some photo's of the body panels. These have been gently sand blasted and then etched / primed.



123119123120123121

I found a tradesman in the Hunter Valley at Heatherbrae (Graham at Extreme Blasting) who has experience with aluminium panels. He charges a bit more for the aluminium panels as the process is slower but gives a discount if there is not much paint on the panel. Thus, my for vehicle, overall cost was pretty good.

From here, my next step is to prime and paint the panels (as well as doing 100 other things).

Cheers
Angus

[harry]

Sam

Thanks for your advice. I do not plan to use the vehicle for daily travel but still think a good ride is worth the expense. Plus it would be annoying to do a rebuild and then not be happy with the outcome.

I agree with you comments re Aussie suppliers - the US supplier Rovers North is cheaper for old man emu shocks that ARB. Can't believe it.

I think I will go for the Monroe shocks from paddocks.

Cheers
Angus
Why don't you go with Munro shocks from Repco? That's where I get mine

[AJF]

Harry,
thanks for the advice.
I read somewhere on the forum that people had difficulty getting the right Munro shocks- apparently the model needed to be a European part. Is this right? I called Repco but the guy I spoke to didn't think there would be a problem but was not sure.
Cheers
Angus

[harry]

I hit the old shock with the wire wheel to show up the part nos stamped on them, but my repco store just looked them up in their munro catalogue and bingo.

[AJF]

Thanks Harry, I will give Repco another go.

Cheers
Angus

[AJF]

Guys
First major set back of the restoration today. I had a panel beater repairing the fire wall for me. Pre-blasting it look good, with rust in the footwells but otherwise ok.

Blasting revealed a previous repair attempt on the dash part. The cost of re-manufacturing was just too much and the panel beater was not confident of the outcome.

Thus I bought another from Dave at Land Rover Heaven in Goulburn and will start again.

Cheers
Angus

[AJF]

Further to my post above, attached are some photo's of the problem. Pity I couldn't save it but that is the way it goes.

Cheers
Angus


123431123432

[AJF]

Hi all

My engine is currently with an engine overhauler in Sydney and he has raised a technical issue which someone might be able to resolve.

As per the photo below, the connecting rod bearing at the bottom of the connecting rod has a small notch / tang which is apparently designed to stop the bearing spinning around the crankshaft.

The bearing in my engine does not fit that snuggly and thus can spin around, even though there is not damage to the tang.

Has anyone see this before, it is common, is it time to replace the bearing?

Any help appreciated.

123688

Cheers
Angus

[JDNSW]

If the bearing can move in the connecting rod, either the bearing or (less likely) the connecting rod, is either worn or out of tolerance. It is not clear whether you are talking about the new bearing or the one that came out, but it must not be possible for the bearing to move. If the engine rebuilder has to ask about this I would wonder about his competence.

[67hardtop]

Hi all

My engine is currently with an engine overhauler in Sydney and he has raised a technical issue which someone might be able to resolve.

As per the photo below, the connecting rod bearing at the bottom of the connecting rod has a small notch / tang which is apparently designed to stop the bearing spinning around the crankshaft.

The bearing in my engine does not fit that snuggly and thus can spin around, even though there is not damage to the tang.

Has anyone see this before, it is common, is it time to replace the bearing?

Any help appreciated.

123688

Cheers
Angus
He should have resized the conrods if hes an "engine reconditioner".
IMHO.

Cheers Rod

[AJF]

John and Rod

Thanks for your replies.

The lack of understanding lies with me, not the engine rebuilder.

He showed me my conrod bearings - thus the photo. He also got one from another engine and showed me how it was meant to clip in so that it didn't spin. I suppose I was just getting it straight in my head that replacing the conrod bearings was what was needed.

I am just pricing new piston assemblies, main bearings and conrod bearings. Paddock Spares have after market parts that are well / appropriately priced. Cheapest genuine I have found so far is PA Blanchard - GBP45 for each piston, GBP49 for main bearings and GBP 95 for the conrod bearing set. Any experience / recommendations / suggestions?

Cheers
Angus

[67hardtop]

Those prices sound fair really.

Cheers Rod

[AJF]

Hi all
Decided to go with OEM parts supplied by turner engineering in the U.K. other than for the conrod bearing. Apparently the series 2 had a smaller con rod bearing than the 2a and the bearings for the series 2 are difficult to get. Turner's did not have any but I got a set from PA Blanchard (thanks Dennis for the recommendation).
Also, the guys at Turners seemed really friendly - offering a few tips for the job.
Cheers
Angus

[AJF]

Hi all

Can someone help with a part number for my gearbox.

I have a 1963 parts manual but a Suffix E gearbox (I think about 1968).

I need a replacement low gear wheel - which is part number 235438 in my catalog. However (after buying the part) this is smaller than the gear in my gearbox.

Does anyone have a a parts catalog for a suffix E gearbox?

Dunsfold DLR in the UK said it is 532979 but they do not have any. Apparently Craddock do have them.

Can anyone confirm this is the right part number.

Cheers
Angus

[JDNSW]

That suggested number is correct, assuming you are talking about low gear in the transfer case not low gear in the gearbox.

[AJF]

Thanks John
Yes - I am looking at the low gear in the transfer case.
Angus

[AJF]

Hi All

Been a while since I posted an update. Main progress has been getting a concrete floor to work on in the shed.

Anyway, the chassis is now back from the sand blaster / painter and looking great. Photo below. For anyone in the Hunter area - I can recommend Graham at Extreme Blasting. Did a great job.

I have also had the gearbox overhauled by Newcastle Gearbox and Diff. I sourced all the parts which I think help save some cost. The guy who did the work - Paul - was very particular and said he is happy with the outcome.


125479


125478


Next step - replace the suspension bushes and rebuild the axels.

Cheers
Angus

[AJF]

Hi all

I had a go at the chassis bushes today. After watching / reading about the trials of others, I approached the job with some trepidation.

Suffice to say, I have earned my first stripes in the Land Rover restoration game. Incredibly difficult to get the old ones out and no walk in the park to get the new ones in.

Cheers
Angus

[Cap]

Baptism of fire for everyone at some stage... bushes and steering relay lol

[AJF]

Guys

Photo of success at the end of the removal of the first chassis bush. Can't reconcile why so much effort should be necessary but I suppose that the price you have to pay.

Cheers
Angus

127180

[Homestar]

Hi all

I had a go at the chassis bushes today. After watching / reading about the trials of others, I approached the job with some trepidation.

Suffice to say, I have earned my first stripes in the Land Rover restoration game. Incredibly difficult to get the old ones out and no walk in the park to get the new ones in.

Cheers
Angus

Yep, welcome to the club. [biggrin]

[AJF]

Hi all

we stripped down the front axel last weekend. Unexpected issue is a worn spline at the hub end. Other than that, other issues were expected.

I am currently proposing to stay with the old steering set up - cone and spring - rather than move to the raiko set up. I have seen many website proposing updating the steering and wanted to know if it is a "must do" in the realm of Land Rover restoration?


cheers
Angus

[JDNSW]

No, it is not necessary to update the top swivel arrangement - no doubt the rivet counters would stick with it. The major reason for changing is to use readily available parts that are cheaper. In fact, I'm not absolutely sure you can get the parts for the old setup.

What goes wrong with the cone and spring system is that although unless badly neglected, the cone and socket working surfaces should still be good, there is a tendency for the splines on the cone and the pin to wear. There must be no perceptible free play here, or the damping will not be effective, and wheel shimmy is almost guaranteed.

[AJF]

Hi all

we are waiting on a few parts for the front axel rebuild and also waiting for the engine rebuild, so decided best thing to do was have a go at spray painting the panel.

These had had carefully been sand blasted and etch primed by Graham at Extreme Blasting in Heaterhrae.

Anyway, it we got on one coat of primer, had some fun and learnt a bit.



Cheers
Angus

[AJF]

Hi all

great progress over the past few weeks.

i got the engine back from the workshop, fully overhauled and even a polished rocker cover.

Photo below.

130642

[AJF]

No, it is not necessary to update the top swivel arrangement - no doubt the rivet counters would stick with it. The major reason for changing is to use readily available parts that are cheaper. In fact, I'm not absolutely sure you can get the parts for the old setup.

What goes wrong with the cone and spring system is that although unless badly neglected, the cone and socket working surfaces should still be good, there is a tendency for the splines on the cone and the pin to wear. There must be no perceptible free play here, or the damping will not be effective, and wheel shimmy is almost guaranteed.


John

Also had a go at rebuilding the front axel last weekend - got one side rebuilt. Cone and spring system parts looked good with very little wear. We had some trouble getting the correct tension (12 - 16 lbs) and changed the shims a few times - we started with 4 lbs, then went to 22 lbs, before ending just at 12.

Will see how it goes when we get it back on the road.

Thanks for the advice.

Cheers
Angus

[bemm52]

Also had trouble with pre load had it spot on ,then when I fitted oil seal things were way to tight so I had to juggle shims again

Cheers Paul

[AJF]

Hi all

we took a break from the axels last weekend and started painting - limestone for the canopy and wheels.

We are spraying outside, next to the shed but were happy the the result of the first coat.

cheers
Angus

[AJF]

Hi all

With the second axel rebuilt, it is now time to get the firewall in.

That means painting it so, we started spraying the green now. We are a long way from a spray booth - but shouldn't have any problems getting the BBQ going next time.

Good start and nice to see some green paint.

Photo below.

Cheers
Angus

132418132419

[AJF]

Hi All

We have made steady progress over the last month or so.

Below are a few photo's - one of the car as it currently stands and one taken after installing the accelerator linkage and brake master cylinder. (Note the tyres are only for the workshop until we get the guards on).

Next step is to overhaul the steering box and fit the clutch master and slave cylinders.

We have also done a timeline to plan out how to get the vehicle ready for Cooma at Easter - lots to do and not much time.

Cheers
Angus

134924134925

[Dgd69]

Looking great keep up the good work

[bemm52]

see ya in Cooma:BigThumb:

Cheers Paul

[OneOff]

Going strong Angus, you're just a bit ahead of me. I won't have Barney ready for Cooma but I'll see you (all) there.

[AJF]

Hi all

My vehicle is a 1960 series 2.

Can anyone confirm whether the lights should be the flatter L488 or the more rounded L594?

Cheers
Angus

[AJF]

Hi all

Does anybodyknow if someone has posted instructions for re-wiring a series 2.

I decided to convert to negative earth and bought a new wiring harness from Vintage Wiring in Melbourne. The instructions are a little vague for me.

I made a start last weekend and need to check I am on the right track.

cheers
Angus

[Chops]

I can't say I've seen an "instructional" type thread, but there are various threads that tell of how certain bits of the wiring have come together, so to speak. There possibly could be something on YouTube maybe (?).

Just read through a few of the thread builds and you'll find a fair bit of info. There's a few pics too.

[Dinty]

Here is a link to Terri anne's site in america, it's a simple job, cheers Dennis
Land Rover - Pos to Neg Polarity conversion (http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/polarityConversion.htm)

[AJF]

Thanks for the link. Will see how I go.

[JohnboyLandy]

These might helps too : Land Rover FAQ - Repair & Maintenance - Series - Electrical - Reference - Wiring Diagrams (http://www.lrfaq.org/Series/ElectricalSIIA.html)

Cheers,
John

[AJF]

Hi all

with Cooma fast approaching, some long days on the weekends is seeing the project move forward.

Below ow is the current status.

big challenge is next weekend when we are going to try and start it up. fingers crossed but either way it will on the trailer head to Cooma at the end of the month.

Cheers
Angus

[OneOff]

Angus, that looks amazing mate! Can’t wait to see it at Cooma.

Unfortuately Barney won’t be coming with us. Hopefully it’ll be finished for the 80th...

[bigsad]

[Dgd69]

Looks fantastic great work big difference compared to what it used to look like

[AJF]

Hi all
Time to get some new tyres for the vehicle - being a SWB I am thinking about an original look - Any recommendations for 6 or 6.5 tyre?
At Cooma someone had a Deestone 6.0/16 that looked pretty good but I can't find them anywhere.
Cheers
Angus

[AJF]

Hi all
Progress has slowed since Cooma but we are getting to the end. Fitted seat belts on the weekend and enjoyed a drive. Photo to follow.
Angus

[AJF]

Current state of the vehicle - new tyres.

[Gordie]

She's a little treasure mate, you have done well.[thumbsupbig]

[Chops]

Yep, looking great chief.

I didn't want to paint mine when I restore it, I'd just leave it's natural "patina",, But, looking at your's, now I'm not so sure. [bighmmm]

[LeighE]

Looks brilliant. Can I ask what brand and size are the new tyres?

[AJF]

Hi

The tyres are the 6.0 x 16 Vikings. I got them from Alex Massey at CKD Shop in Brisbane. He has them for series 1s and I think they also look pretty good on the series 2.

Cheers
Angus

[AJF]

Hi all

As a quick update, we are hoping to finish off the wiring over the next few weekends.

Current status is that it starts and goes but as yet no lights, blinkers or horn.

To date our efforts with the crimpers has been less than convincing so we are going to solder all the connections. Any tips?

Cheers
Angus

[bemm52]

Hi all

As a quick update, we are hoping to finish off the wiring over the next few weekends.

Current status is that it starts and goes but as yet no lights, blinkers or horn.

To date our efforts with the crimpers has been less than convincing so we are going to solder all the connections. Any tips?

Cheers
Angus

Pretty straight forward with resin core solder and an electric soldering iron......clean tip with sand paper if it burns or gets dirty to aid retinning
Heat shrink tubing is good over individual wire joints or self amalgamating tape, look out for pointy bits after soldering as they can pierce whatever insulation you use and cause shorts...been there done that[bighmmm] I inspect every solder joint I do and blunt pointy bits with plier squeeze or remove with small side cutters (pointy bits don't always occur depends how carefully you twist the wires together before soldering)

Cheers Paul